tire slippage on the wheel

[bfdiesel]

Pb blaster for lube mounting the tire. It will let the tire adhere to the rim as it dries. We used it all the time for mounting everything up through semi tires. Them tires would be well adhered like breaking the bead on a tire that had been mounted for 20 years. The black stuff was way messier to clean up when a new tire needed mounted.

 

[Rovertrader]

It looks like we are going the mount 'em dry route, let 'em sit a day or two first, hit the beads with 400 grit also, and see where we are. I suspect the overuse of soap very well could be the culptrit, but in their defense, we mount around 20 tires/mo and never had such an issue. Not so sure the GS-As aren't part of the problem, but difficult to prove.
Thanks again for all the help- will post up results.

 

[82fb]

If you have trouble finding bead sealant, you can use most any sort of adhesive/sealant. Windshield adhesive, roofing sealant, anything that stays somewhat soft when dry. And it doesn't take much. Thin layer is fine. Not rocket science.

 

[Buliwyf]

-Wire brush and die grinder clean the wheels bead surface
-PB blaster for lube to get the tire on, but bead in and down.
-bead sealant around the rim, then seat the bead.


Every tire I've ever changed has had bead sealant. Usually just a little. If they patch tires then they have bead sealant. Maybe the same kind of techs that have no idea wht a 1 piece plug/patch is.

 

[Redline]

snip...

What kind of terrible, rubbish, tire shop deosn't use bead sealant? Every tire I've ever changed has had bead sealant. Usually just a little. If they patch tires then they have bead sealant. Maybe the same kind of techs that have no idea wht a 1 piece plug/patch is.

To my knowledge, bead sealant is not commonly used for Passenger and LT tires when using a modern tire machine. I've watched several sets of tires mounted/balanced over the past few years, and techs generally only use bead lube to breakdown or mount a tire, no sealant.

Also never had a bead slipping issue from a fully inflated tire, but this is an interesting problem that RoverTrader ran into.

 

[Buliwyf]

Then again, I am in the snow belt afterall. Aluminum wheels get weird gray white corrosion around the bead we have to rotory brush off and then use sealant or they'll gently leak. Now we just have a habit of sealing up every thing.

Plug/patches are fun. We drill out the pin hole with an air drill, then use a rotory brush to grind off the inside of the tire around the plug/patch. Then goo up the inside of the tire with sealant, pull the plug patch through, then cover the patch on the inside of the tire with sealant. Good as new.

I have no idea how a tire shop plugs tires without the black sealant goo.

(PS: never try to seal a building or RV's roof with the tire sealant, even though the roofing material may say "Firestone" on it, it surely isn't the same kind of rubber and it'll warp/expand/dissolve if you put tire sealant on it. I though I was Mr. Slick when I tried this to fix a minor leak. LOL)

 

[Rovertrader]

To my knowledge, bead sealant is not commonly used for Passenger and LT tires when using a modern tire machine. I've watched several sets of tires mounted/balanced over the past few years, and techs generally only use bead lube to breakdown or mount a tire, no sealant.

Also never had a bead slipping issue from a fully inflated tire, but this is an interesting problem that RoverTrader ran into.

We too never use bead sealant, and the tire shop is actually very very good- does everything from wheelbarrows to tractor and Semi trucks!! Now on patches, done exactly as described above- so does that make your shop lousy since they do them the same way? Not trying to be defensive, but why slam a shop in a different part of the country you don't even know? And just to be clear, not mention of a charge to find and fix the problem- a full half day with two techs and the owner. Pretty lousy customer service eyh?
And another update- the new 37s on the JK run out fine as frog hair. Of course they are BFGs too :-0

 

[JeepN95YJ]

We too never use bead sealant, and the tire shop is actually very very good- does everything from wheelbarrows to tractor and Semi trucks!! Now on patches, done exactly as described above- so does that make your shop lousy since they do them the same way? Not trying to be defensive, but why slam a shop in a different part of the country you don't even know? And just to be clear, not mention of a charge to find and fix the problem- a full half day with two techs and the owner. Pretty lousy customer service eyh?
And another update- the new 37s on the JK run out fine as frog hair. Of course they are BFGs too :-0

I'm in Ohio as well. I've never known any shop in my area to use bead sealant as a standard practice.

 

[moscar45]

In my neck of the woods, lots of bead sealer is used.

 

[Buliwyf]

I used to go home covered in that stuff!

 

[lowenbrau]

A number of years ago one of my co-workers ( a hotrod guy) bought a diesel towrig and chipped it. Soon afterward he found his tires out of balance. After a couple of rebalances at the dealer they marked the tires and rims and realized that he was spinning the tires on the rims. After that, no more free balances and he got the stinkeye whenever he needed warranty work. I think Stauns will do the trick with no downside but if you know someone with a large enough lathe I think knurling the bead would fix the problem as well.

 

[bmxdannyo]

Something I just recently learned; I'm dealing with Bfg to have my tires returned for factory defects and when we were going through the info, they asked if the tires were on factory rims. I said no but why does it matter? Bfg said some random information that didn't apply to the situation, but said that the factory wheels were not wide enough for the Bfg km2 so the bead wouldn't grip properly. I didn't think the width mattered all that much.

Don't know how wide your tire is, but I suppose this could contribute

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

I know that when tires are made, they use a lot of mold release in the tire molds so the newly cast tires "pop" out of the molds properly. I know that my new Hankook MT's were slippery as heck when we picked them up at the warehouse. It actually left a film on your hands. The guy who installed them for me owned a hot rod shop...he removed my old Toyo AT's, cleaned the wheels, then cleaned the new tires to get the mold release off prior to install. Mounted the new tires, balanced them with minimal back weights (white letters in of course, shop policy)...and then once installed cleaned off the install lube and shined them up.

I wonder if it could be a case of the perfect storm of tire mounting fail? Mold release (too much maybe), tire lube for install, shiny rim beads = spin? Just pondering and hypothesizing ...I have never heard of this at street pressure. At like 6 PST for crawling, sure but like 35 PSI, nope.

 

[Rovertrader]

Thanks again for all the input. Been too busy to go after them, but a couple things:
-yes, on factory wheels, 7.5" and recommended is 8.0- 10.0. The shop and others feel we are close enough.
-have considered, and have used the Stauns, but really hate to spend the $$ for them on a street vehicle
-worse than 35 psi, we are running 55psi to keep the TPMS happy- which makes it even stranger at that kind of pressure
-tires are new, but build date of 2609, 26th week, 2009 which is certainly well within the 5 year manufacturer window.

I tend to agree with the 'perfect storm' of events, and really hope the solution is near- hope to retrieve them tomorrow. Thanks again for all the input.
Cheers

 

[Rovertrader]

Well, more disappointment. We let everything dry while apart, sanded with 400 grit, let set 3 more days, inflated and balanced, and waited two days and tried it out today. Three tires moved 2" around the wheel and the forth moved 4"- all in <4 miles!!
So, looks like sealant or Stauns... or anyone looking for a cheap set of 37s? Seriously, would only sell to an informed buyer. And here is the sad part- I bought two sets of the tires, so have one set with zero miles :-(