Tj Rubicon Unlimited
- Thread starter The Raven
- Start date
Jim K in PA
Adventurer
The difference in spring rate and damping rate would be noticeable certainly. Unsafe? That will depend on how you drive it. It will most likely just be frustrating with the rear end softer than the front, and you will likely end up with a nose high stance instead of nose down. I would wait and save up to do the front and rear at the same time. Cheapest leveling option would be to buy a pair of front spring spacers from ebay.
I concur 110% on the frustration of doing things twice. There are plenty of crappy options for Jeeps. I have built many race cars and street cars, and learned those same lessons (install, then modify or repair the component). I am happy to report that I have had to reconfigure nothing on my Jeep. Excepting tires. I think I have finally settled on the BFG KM2, but that is such a subjective topic (tires) as to be almost irrelevant in forum discussion.
The Raven
Member
Got the OME front shocks and springs popped on today.....all I can say is WOW although a bit lifted the jeep handles great offroad and handles bumps that used to feel like hitting a stone wall like a pebble now. You guys were right about the A$$end though....feel everything back there....:/
Wish I could evaluate the road mannors though.....guy who did the install disconnected the trackbar and managed to break the bolt. Instead of telling me he found a similar bolt but longer and put about 3/8" of washers behind the head and called it good. On the way home I got a death wobble so bad I thought I was gonna lose control. In having my wife turn the wheel I have about 1/4" min left to right play on the lower mount so that bolt must be a smaller diameter as well. I would put money on this as the reason of the death wobble...although I did get a minor one previously on occasion.
Wish I could evaluate the road mannors though.....guy who did the install disconnected the trackbar and managed to break the bolt. Instead of telling me he found a similar bolt but longer and put about 3/8" of washers behind the head and called it good. On the way home I got a death wobble so bad I thought I was gonna lose control. In having my wife turn the wheel I have about 1/4" min left to right play on the lower mount so that bolt must be a smaller diameter as well. I would put money on this as the reason of the death wobble...although I did get a minor one previously on occasion.
jscusmcvet
Explorer
You are most certainly right about that contributing to your DW experience. Best get that fixed right away. I never worked on my own vehicles until getting into modifying jeeps. The understanding you get from turning those wrenches helps in every situation. Good luck.
John
Jim K in PA
Adventurer
Love the flattie and the Bantam! I have a T-3C. Been in the family since '48.
I like oil bath air cleaners. They work very well, but are more "work" to clean and maintain. They are almost impossible to clog up.
The front track bar on the TJ/LJ is an idiotic design from the factory, and uses a marginally sized bolt for the axle end bracket (10mm). If the bolt the shop used is too small or the hole is wallowed out, the first option is to replace the 10mm bolt with a 12mm, and drill the bracket out accordingly. Obviously length is important. If too long it will bottom against the axle tube. The original nut is/was a flag nut, but you can get a 12mm flange nut and a box wrench in there for tightening. And tighten it you MUST!
Watch the wear at the tie rod end at the frame bracket. I never get more than about 40-50k miles out of one, no matter the brand or tire size.
I like oil bath air cleaners. They work very well, but are more "work" to clean and maintain. They are almost impossible to clog up.
The front track bar on the TJ/LJ is an idiotic design from the factory, and uses a marginally sized bolt for the axle end bracket (10mm). If the bolt the shop used is too small or the hole is wallowed out, the first option is to replace the 10mm bolt with a 12mm, and drill the bracket out accordingly. Obviously length is important. If too long it will bottom against the axle tube. The original nut is/was a flag nut, but you can get a 12mm flange nut and a box wrench in there for tightening. And tighten it you MUST!
Watch the wear at the tie rod end at the frame bracket. I never get more than about 40-50k miles out of one, no matter the brand or tire size.
The Raven
Member
I checked the tension on the frame side of the track bar and it's well greased and tight. Also checked the axle bolt torque and it was about 50 with no bolt movement. Guessing the bar bushing itself may be worn. Guess it's time for a new trackbar. :ylsmoke:
I understand the point of the bigger bolt.....but if the smaller one did not break, has never broken in 250k of jeep ownership why do it? It would only lead me down the path of then needing different trackbars or having to drill out the factory upon replacement, etc etc.
I understand the point of the bigger bolt.....but if the smaller one did not break, has never broken in 250k of jeep ownership why do it? It would only lead me down the path of then needing different trackbars or having to drill out the factory upon replacement, etc etc.
Jim K in PA
Adventurer
Because you said it had been broken once already:
It is a common point of failure, and apparently you have been fortunate not to break yours when re-tightening. Replacing the 10mm bolt with a 12mm does not necessarily lead you down the path of needing a different track bar. You can get a new bushing for the stock track bar with a 12mm inner sleeve. Why would you want to replace the track bar if the frame side is good? Sorry, but you seem to be contradicting yourself, but it's your Jeep. I was offering suggestions per your inquiry, but I think I'll stay out of the conversation from here out.
The Raven
Member
Wow Jim...you are touchy..calm down.
I found out later that the tech didn't use the old bolt because the threads got buggard. Also at 66666k if the bushing is worn, I'm not going to spend 1.5 hrs replacing it only 6mo down the line have to replace the frame side as well. I do the job once and be done with it.....
If my basics of mechanics hold true, torqued bolts can only be torqued once before they are junk. That is why the 10mm breaks. 12 is not needed unless you want a higher torque which is generally a band-aid to a much larger issue IMHO. There might be a designed in failure that the bolts get buggard after one use as my tech found out.
I found out later that the tech didn't use the old bolt because the threads got buggard. Also at 66666k if the bushing is worn, I'm not going to spend 1.5 hrs replacing it only 6mo down the line have to replace the frame side as well. I do the job once and be done with it.....
If my basics of mechanics hold true, torqued bolts can only be torqued once before they are junk. That is why the 10mm breaks. 12 is not needed unless you want a higher torque which is generally a band-aid to a much larger issue IMHO. There might be a designed in failure that the bolts get buggard after one use as my tech found out.
The Raven
Member
I got my rear shocks, trackbar relocating bracket and bump stop extenders ready to install this Thursday coming. I have to say the OME shocks are very impressive and of high quality. It'll be nice re-leveling the jeep.
My trackbar has also been purchased. I got the premium one from NAPA as I read it was mfg by Moog? Gonna stick with the 10mm bolt as I don't feel the upgraded one is necessary at the moment. Also plan on rotating and balancing my tires as I suspect an unbalanced tire may be contributing to my death wobble as well as the loose trackbar.
Once I drop on my snow tires in a couple months I'll be getting an alignment unless I notice a odd increase in wear or the death wobble continues.
Oh, the Gobi rack will be here the end of next week too
My trackbar has also been purchased. I got the premium one from NAPA as I read it was mfg by Moog? Gonna stick with the 10mm bolt as I don't feel the upgraded one is necessary at the moment. Also plan on rotating and balancing my tires as I suspect an unbalanced tire may be contributing to my death wobble as well as the loose trackbar.
Once I drop on my snow tires in a couple months I'll be getting an alignment unless I notice a odd increase in wear or the death wobble continues.
Oh, the Gobi rack will be here the end of next week too
With the OME, I went with the v8 ZJ springs up front and the extra heavy LJ springs in the rear. When you are going to put a front bumper and winch on it is nice to use the heavier springs. Then on the back, with having the 32 Safari tank I knew I'd need the extra capacity there as well.
Then when it comes to control arms I like the Rokmen units for all 8 of them.
As for tires I will always run 255s as long as they make them. At the moment I am running the BFG KM2.
Then when it comes to control arms I like the Rokmen units for all 8 of them.
As for tires I will always run 255s as long as they make them. At the moment I am running the BFG KM2.
As for Death Wooble, I know many people start thinking tie rod ends, tire balance, ...etc. But, from my experience with my own jeep and many others, it has always been the ball joints. Every time I would have bet large amounts of money the ball joints were not the issue. We'd do the normal thing. Lift the jeep, try to rock the tire....nothing. Then after exhausting and replacing all other options, we do the Ball Joints. Once you take off that knuckle the joint would flop around like a wet noodle. Once replaced, the jeeps have handled like day one. Sadly, many people have rims with extreme levels of offset/backspacing that push the tires out creating even more leverage against the joints.
On my jeep I went with the Synergy units, and have been very happy with them.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/56100_3002.htm
On my jeep I went with the Synergy units, and have been very happy with them.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/56100_3002.htm