Torque Wrenches- Massive price spectrum, what do I actually need?

[nwoods]

The truck i recently bought, being charitable, needs a lot of work. Some of that work will require a torque wrench, and I don't own one. I don't know much about them, and when I compare a Craftsman torque wrench for $80, to say, Snapon's for $450, I gotta wonder, what is it that i'm not seeing? At this point, I'm not sure what the ratings I need, nor drive size. I'm kinda hoping you, the Internet and all its wisdom, might be able to educate me on what I really need to budget for.

 

[keezer37]

I've had a SK 74255 1/2" dr micrometer type torque wrench 20-150 ft. lb (1 ft. lb increments) for some time now. I had a digital type for a while but returned it. After a torque reading, it would take a moment to reset to zero, annoying. I ran a tool room for a while where all we had was Snap-on dial type. Problem here was, drop it, and it had to go in for a calibration check.
I believe this range is good for automotive mechanics. I like the clicker (micrometer) type. I prefer a 1/2" drive and keep a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer with it.

 

[Simons]

I have a 3/8" Snap-on and a 1/2" Mac, the drive size really depends on you torque requirements, larger drive usually follows with higher torque capabilities. I worked for Chrysler during the Neon head gasket era where I would do three head gaskets a day so the light weight and quick torque changing ability of the snap-on 3/8" was what I needed. Not sure if a value brand would keep up. For torquing anything over 80ft/lbs I needed a larger 1/2" drive wrench.

 

[LR Max]

I use a craftsman 1/2" torque wrench. I use this 99.99999% for tire changing. Works quite well for this. To be honest, I'll do tire work...maybe once every two months (fooling with my two vehicles, or the g/f's car, or someone elses).

The snap on units are definitely A LOT nicer but you pay for what you get. If I was doing tire work everyday, I'd drop the money on one of these.

The biggest thing is calibration. For my little application, I'm planning on having my torque wrench re-calibrated in 5 years. If I was using it everyday, then I would do it probably once a year.

Lastly, I know this sounds stupid but the box it comes in is important as it protects the wrench. Banging it around doesn't help keep it in calibration.

 

[RangeBrover]

Check craigslist I picked up a snap on clicker style 1/2" one for 150 bucks and it had never been used. Good deals are out there, I wouldn't go for the beam style though. While they don't need to be calibrated from what I'm told, it can be a pain in the butt to use.

 

[4xdog]

Check craigslist I picked up a snap on clicker style 1/2" one for 150 bucks and it had never been used. Good deals are out there, I wouldn't go for the beam style though. While they don't need to be calibrated from what I'm told, it can be a pain in the butt to use.

Good advice here. Check out what torque levels you're gonna need because you may very quickly be into 1/2" drive range.

For limited use around the house, there's really no need for the quality of Snap-on (although their stuff is superb). I've had a Craftsman DigiTork for decades and it gets used a few times a year (and stored with barely any tension on the spring). Tools abound on Craigslist, often at very good prices.

Don

 

[Antichrist]

It also depends on what you're torquing. It's very difficult with the click style to not and a little additional torque after the breakover click. For things like lug nuts it's a non-issue. For some critical torques it could be an issue.
I've been using the click style for 35+ years, but decided to spring for a CDI last year:

It's the Snap-on 0-250lbft/0-475nm 1/2" drive, just a lot cheaper. $159 vs about $350 from Snap-on.

As for ranges, look in the shop manual for torque specifications and buy accordingly.
Keep in mind that the cheaper torque wrenches (Craftsman) are generally the most accurate in the mid-range. So you might want a 1/2" drive that goes up to 250lb/ft and a 3/8" drive that only goes to 100.
I also have an in/lb 3/8" Craftsman but the scale on it is so funky I don't trust it too much. Rather, I don't trust my reading of the settings.

 

[Antichrist]

The biggest thing is calibration. For my little application, I'm planning on having my torque wrench re-calibrated in 5 years. If I was using it everyday, then I would do it probably once a year.

You can calibrate it yourself. There are good instructions on the net. While doing it at home doesn't change the settings, it will tell you if it's off for a given torque and you can adjust the setting accordingly. If it's off, just make yourself a little chart to keep in the case with it.

 

[1911]

Craftsman click-type torque wrenches have plastic handles and locking mechanisms that eventually crack and fail if you use them very much. Finally got tired of replacing them and bought Snap-on; never (yet) had to replace a Snap-on. Worth the extra money to me, but I use mine a lot.

 

[plainjaneFJC]

Look at the Kobalt 1/2" from Lowes. I recently bought one and was actually impressed with the build quality and finish of this unit.

 

[86tuning]

The snap on twin beam torque wrenches are manufactured by precision torque wrench. The 1/2" drive 20-250 ft.lbs. wrenches go for around $150 smart shopper price. Very good quality units, and very repeatable. Also they can be sent for calibration.

For smaller fasteners and internal engine fasteners you will want a 3/8" drive micrometer style. I use a snap-on one, but MAC Tools makes a good unit as well.

The problem with lesser units is that they're not repeatable. That means with 10 screws that are supposed to be the exact same torque, you may have up to 20% variation in tightening torque. The quality units are often better than 1% repeat ability, even if they're out of calibration.

 

[86tuning]

For truly budget and occasional use, the flexing-beam type torque wenches have no moving parts and have excellent repeatability--if you can see the scale. These are the $15 units from craftsman and other suppliers. All work the same and are equally good units for the price.

 

[Antichrist]

Just check it before you buy it. I was looking at them at Sears and the 3/8" I looked at was pointing to 5lb/ft when at rest.

 

[ZMagic97]

I agree with Kobalt. If you can find a good priced Proto one, I'd snag that one quick. We use them at my nuclear power plant and they're great. Even after many drops they always stay sat after checking the cal on them.

Honestly, I have used a lot. Snap-On, Craftsman, MAC...etc. All Chinese made. Buy one that looks good to you at a good price and buy it.

That's my 2 cents.

 

[java]

Much of the Kobalt hand tools are snap on factroy seconds rebranded. Ive had good luck with most of thier stuff.

That being said i have a HF $10 one that works great for tire changes and non precision stuff...