Torsion bars maxed. what next?

[Razorback Frontier]

I have a 2001 Fronty cc sc 4x4, had for about year and a half now, I just now noticed that the upper control arms are sitting on the bump stops. My tire size is 285/70R 17's. It rides stiff and has a moderate to bad shimmy at hwy speed. I've looked at sl's from Rancho and a couple others, they are pricey and I think I probably just need new uca's. not the whole pkg., especially don't need any thing for the rear axle, where can I buy a quality aftermarket uca that gives me the clearance and articulation back without spending a thousand bucks? Any help is appreciated!!!

 

[ryandavenport]

check out 4x4parts.com. They may have something on there for you, but I'm just going to warn you that UCAs aren't cheap. Also, they won't make the truck ride any better. That is a matter of your torsion bars and shocks.

 

[Mirage]

It will ride better once you are able to get the UCA's off the bump stops though. Don't even look at anything rancho, it will have less flex than stock. AC 4x4parts has UCA's by themselves, as well as Calmini, but without longer stroke shocks you won't gain any down travel, but they will allow you to get off the bump stops at least.

For the shimmy, check your steering center link, when the ball joints wear out in it, you get very erratic toe changes.

 

[Strizzo]

sitting on the compression or extension bump stops? if its too far extended, you can take some tension out and probably have a bit better ride. if you have them at max lift, and they're worn down to where you're sitting on the bump stops its probably time for some new bars. 4x4parts has some that are designed to give a bit of lift and i think a little higher spring rate. unfortunately due to the fairly short control arms you can't do a ton of lift in the front end without wierd geometry changes in the front end.

 

[IggyB]

You probably just need to reindex the torsion bars and adjust as necessary.

When you reinstall the torsion bar, lift the lower A-arm all the way till it touches the bump stop. Then put the bar in and adjust as necessary

 

[Xterabl]

Here you go:

http://www.purenissan.com/d22_control_arms.htm


After installing these UCAs, DO NOT torque the torsion bars until you're riding the bumpstops, as this will cause great strain on your axle cv joints (this assumes you have 4WD of course).

Regarding shocks, I use and like KYB monomax in my Xterra; but most people go with Bilsteins and like them. Just for comparative information: Xterra front stock shocks have a travel distance of 3.81"; KYB's (for lifted Xterra) have 3.93" travel; and Bilsteins (for lifted, I believe), have 3.88" travel.

Generally speaking, new UCA's and shocks won't give much, if any, extra wheel travel; however they will allow for maintained or improved ride quality with the 2-3" of front end lift achieved by cranking the torsions bars. The next purchase should be heavier duty torsion bars that can better tolerate harsh wheeling at the higher, tighter setting (cranked).

Also, the most common steering problem (mentioned up-thread) is the worn idler arm bushing.
Can buy here:
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/idler-arm-bushings-p-5257.html

Regarding the torsion bar re-indexing...this just relates to how much the adjustment anchors are tucked up within the frame cross-member. In other words, if you re-index your torsion bars, but then crank 'em until you have the same amount of front end lift as before re-indexing, then the only difference will be that the adjustment anchors will be hanging either lower to the ground (good for snagging on rocks), or more "tucked-in" to the cross member, depending on which way you rotated the torsion bar when doing the re-indexing.

Good luck!

 

[Razorback Frontier]

I was wondering about shocks. How do you figure which ones will work best after you install a lift, It would seem in order to get the most travel out of the control arms you would need longer shocks, Is that right? Is their a website that tells you which shock would be a suitable upgrde? How expensive are the KYB or Bilsteins? Thanx

 

[Drake]

Pick up a set of Bilstein HD's from www.4x4parts.com that are for a 3" lift. They will compress to stock length but will give you the full benefits of added droop when you get aftermarket UCA's. My rec on uca's would be to go with AC over Calmini.

Call Volrick at AC (4x4parts) and talk to him. He will get you fixed up with what you need.

 

[Razorback Frontier]

OK, I've decided to go with the AC uca's and Bilstein shocks. but now I am not sure about the rear axle. I can get the blocks for $70 or go with the aal's for about $150. I definitely do not want the *** to sit higher, just nice and level. Any thoughts?

 

[IggyB]

Ask couple of buddies to sit on the tailgate. Then look under and see if your bumpstops in the back are touching the springs. If they are, get new springs. If not, AAL - the longer the better.

 

[alexrex20]

AAL will make the truck ride like **** also. get a new leaf pack.

 

[MrBeast]

You could always get a waggy D44 and straight axle it. :victory:

 

[Razorback Frontier]

I haven't bought 'em yet, I could just buy the blocks. Cheaper too!

 

[Razorback Frontier]

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=728&pictureid=3353

Here is the truck as it now sits, it looks good, just have the handling issues I'm hoping to correct. I hope I can keep this under a $1000, I know there maybe some worn steering components when I get the truck to the shop, just hope it's not too bad.

 

[alexrex20]

For $1000 you could put a Waggy 44 under the front of your truck. A buddy of mine was in the same situation as you. He bought another Nissan and it was adding up to just rebuild the stock IFS. Instead, he got a Waggy 44 for $200 and is SUA SAS'ing his truck for cheap, maybe around $1000.

Check out www.nissantrailriders.com for some great info and tips. It can definitely be done for cheap if you or a friend has a welder.