Towing with a 7.3 E350
- Thread starter 4x4pair
- Start date
Melting Point of Aluminum = 1,221°F
Your pistons are made of aluminum.
Less is good, more can be bad.
4x4Pair,
I like ^^djbonsu's idea of checking and testing for boost leaks first! Just to be certain, your EGT sensor is pre-turbo, correct? Tapped into the manifold on the driver's side? I would also test your fuel pressure. I have done every known modification to keep EGT's low. It worked because I have no problems when I tow my 10,000 lb. trailer. I have slightly increased intake air, bellowed up pipes that are wrapped, rebuilt turbo with turbo blanket, ebpv delete pedestal, Wicked Wheel compressor wheel, new ccv boots with T-bolt clamps and ccv inserts, AIH delete, hi-flow turbo outlet (which is the most restricted point), factory down pipe, Walker BTM straight thru muffler, and AM gauges.
I do not have any tuner, yet. I would consider adding a 40 or 60 tow or mountain tune in the future. The 7.3 vans were de-tuned by @ 80 hp compared to the intercooled trucks due to lack of an intercooler, but have a larger turbo to help compensate. Now that I have gauges, I would consider an 80 econo tune for regular trips, but not an 80 tow tune. It just seems too agressive to me without the IC. On really steep grades, I take it out of overdrive, and let the RPM's work for me. I'll never pass the newer diesel trucks while towing heavy uphill, but they don't have a queen sized mattress to sleep on either! Cheers!
VOODOO7.3,
I can’t find any leaks at the boots but I do see some soot at the up-pipes. Not a ton and I find it hard to believe it would affect the performance as much as it does but I’ll replace them anyway with some bellowed pipes.
I have two EGT gauges installed…one in each exhaust manifold. Fuel pressure stays over 60 psi (new fuel pump and an AirDog).
How did you increase your intake air? You rebuilt the turbo instead of replace it? That might be the way to go for me…as well as add a Wicked Wheel like you did. Was there a big difference when you did that? Hi-flow turbo outlet? What turbo psi do you normally see when pulling your 10k trailer?
Thanks for the info!
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I can’t find any leaks at the boots but I do see some soot at the up-pipes. Not a ton and I find it hard to believe it would affect the performance as much as it does but I’ll replace them anyway with some bellowed pipes.
I have two EGT gauges installed…one in each exhaust manifold. Fuel pressure stays over 60 psi (new fuel pump and an AirDog).
How did you increase your intake air? You rebuilt the turbo instead of replace it? That might be the way to go for me…as well as add a Wicked Wheel like you did. Was there a big difference when you did that? Hi-flow turbo outlet? What turbo psi do you normally see when pulling your 10k trailer?
Thanks for the info!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
4x4Pair,
Hard for me to tell what made the biggest differences because I did turbo, pedestal, up-pipes, wheel, hi-flow outlet, aih delete, etc. all at one time! I can tell you that leaking up-pipes can add to higher egt's though. Wrapped or ceramic coated bellowed pipes help quicken turbo spool up. You can buy a hi-flow outlet from Riff-Raff or you can do what I did. Remove the butterfly from the outlet and press in 3/4" x 1/4" freeze plugs (same as on 70's and maybe early 80's Chevys) and new 7/8" internal ring clips to prevent them from coming out. The pressure alone will hold them and that is what some aftermarket companies market as a high flow outlet anyway. For more info on all including turbo, go to dieselOrings site and read his help pages and links to modifications and maintenance write-ups. Tons of good info there, but don't do the CCV Mod! I thought it would be a great idea, after seeing the oil in my intake tube. It literally stinks and also can cause oil leaks where there were none before. causes negative pressure. I reversed the whole mod a week later!
The air intake is a long story that I need to photograph to save you from boredom. Basically, the factory air intake works pretty good. An aftermarket company has tried to beat it with not much improvement. I simply covered the bottom of the filter box with flame proof reflective heat tape to block all the radiant heat from the radiator. I cut 3/4" high x @ 6" wide holes in the black ABS plastic where the two rectangular ducts feed into the filter box. The new holes are in line with the gap between hood and grille. I riveted aluminum gutter screen mesh to the cut-outs to keep bugs out. Next, I used thin flashing type aluminum sheets on each side to curve some more grille air into the pre-filter ducts. I didn't do any scientific testing on this one but it helped some. The last thing I did was carefully paint all the new stuff black, which makes it almost impossible to show anyone in a photograph! Argh!
I can't answer your question on boost because I don't have that gauge yet. I installed a triple A-Pillar pod, and put in the three most important gauges to me. EGT, FP, and Trans Temp. Maybe later, I'll put one in the dash. Under normal driving conditions, my EGT's stay below 800. If I really push it, I can get over 1150*, but it is difficult. Most of the time I don't even know the trailer is there. The AIH blocks about 20-25% of your flow too, and only comes on under very specific conditions, like with parking brake engaged, while running in your driveway, under a certain air temp. Not something I'll do, so it had to go too! Hope that helps.
Hard for me to tell what made the biggest differences because I did turbo, pedestal, up-pipes, wheel, hi-flow outlet, aih delete, etc. all at one time! I can tell you that leaking up-pipes can add to higher egt's though. Wrapped or ceramic coated bellowed pipes help quicken turbo spool up. You can buy a hi-flow outlet from Riff-Raff or you can do what I did. Remove the butterfly from the outlet and press in 3/4" x 1/4" freeze plugs (same as on 70's and maybe early 80's Chevys) and new 7/8" internal ring clips to prevent them from coming out. The pressure alone will hold them and that is what some aftermarket companies market as a high flow outlet anyway. For more info on all including turbo, go to dieselOrings site and read his help pages and links to modifications and maintenance write-ups. Tons of good info there, but don't do the CCV Mod! I thought it would be a great idea, after seeing the oil in my intake tube. It literally stinks and also can cause oil leaks where there were none before. causes negative pressure. I reversed the whole mod a week later!
The air intake is a long story that I need to photograph to save you from boredom. Basically, the factory air intake works pretty good. An aftermarket company has tried to beat it with not much improvement. I simply covered the bottom of the filter box with flame proof reflective heat tape to block all the radiant heat from the radiator. I cut 3/4" high x @ 6" wide holes in the black ABS plastic where the two rectangular ducts feed into the filter box. The new holes are in line with the gap between hood and grille. I riveted aluminum gutter screen mesh to the cut-outs to keep bugs out. Next, I used thin flashing type aluminum sheets on each side to curve some more grille air into the pre-filter ducts. I didn't do any scientific testing on this one but it helped some. The last thing I did was carefully paint all the new stuff black, which makes it almost impossible to show anyone in a photograph! Argh!
I can't answer your question on boost because I don't have that gauge yet. I installed a triple A-Pillar pod, and put in the three most important gauges to me. EGT, FP, and Trans Temp. Maybe later, I'll put one in the dash. Under normal driving conditions, my EGT's stay below 800. If I really push it, I can get over 1150*, but it is difficult. Most of the time I don't even know the trailer is there. The AIH blocks about 20-25% of your flow too, and only comes on under very specific conditions, like with parking brake engaged, while running in your driveway, under a certain air temp. Not something I'll do, so it had to go too! Hope that helps.
moparmiller
New member
I peak at 13-15 towing up a steep grade with a 7k trailer full boogy. 2-4 psi unloaded on the hwy at 70. I dont know if i have a boost leak. Need to check because 7.3 van info is pretty light online and the trucks are not the same to my knowledge
wantahertzdonut
Observer
Not a van, but I had a 97 F350 PSD (reg cab, dually, stick, 4.10's) that I towed a toy hauler that weighed around 10,000lbs. Boost was usually 6-9psi at 60-65mph. Wind and grade had profound effects on boost psi, EGT, and fuel economy. I averaged 9.5mpg.
viemamdao_123
New member
wind up in second gear at 3000+ rpm just to do 50 mph. As a reference, my 2001 E350 with a 7.3
Yea, the lack of info makes this all difficult. Thanks for your feedback though it helps! I'm not seeing 13-15 and I have mods done that should allow higher than that.
How are you built? Or all stock?
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How much weight are you pulling in that situation? Do you know what boost you're at?
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moparmiller
New member
Stock 7.3 with a edge tuner in tow mode +40 hp
B^2
Observer
I'm not yet in the same situation but I'm looking at picking up a 7.3L to tow my 1970 Datsun around. What gauges should I be looking at? What other reliability modifications should I be looking at adding? I've done some research that there are parts from the 6.0 that can be swapped in.