trailer brake controller, the rest of the story

[shogun]

As an adjunct query to this thread, what exactly are you controlling?

IOW, The electronic controller tells the trailer brakes when (and I think) how much to brake. I assume the medium being controlled is electro-mechanical? Some sort of electrical device is then mechanically moving something that operates the drums? I would be suprised if it controlled a hydraulic pump. Or is the wheel cylinder the electrical component?

Where am I going with this? The 416 has mechanically actuated drum brakes (parking use only). If I wanted to add full-time trailer brakes on a 416, and I dont see the need to replace the entire axle, what is required? A servo, or the entire brake unit? Or cant be done without entire new axle?

 

[elmo_4_vt]

As an adjunct query to this thread, what exactly are you controlling?

IOW, The electronic controller tells the trailer brakes when (and I think) how much to brake. I assume the medium being controlled is electro-mechanical? Some sort of electrical device is then mechanically moving something that operates the drums? I would be suprised if it controlled a hydraulic pump. Or is the wheel cylinder the electrical component?

Where am I going with this? The 416 has mechanically actuated drum brakes (parking use only). If I wanted to add full-time trailer brakes on a 416, and I dont see the need to replace the entire axle, what is required? A servo, or the entire brake unit? Or cant be done without entire new axle?

An electric brake controller sends differing levels of current through the trailer plug to an electro-magnet. That magnet, when energized acts just like a hydraulic brake cylinder and forces the bottom of the brake pads against the inner surfaces of the drum. The more current, the harder it applies the brakes.

While the 416's have a cable actuated parking brake, there would no easy way of retro fitting a proportional brake actuator to it that was either mechanically or electrically controlled. Maybe something like a hydraulic surge controller on the tongue, but???

You can buy hubs that have both the electro-mechanical brake described above WITH a cable actuated parking brake as well, but I don't think these will work on the original 416 axles. You'd have to use a newer style spindle/axle assembly.

For what it's worth, replacing the axle is not a hard job, and would only really take about 30 minutes if you know what your doing and already have the spring perches welded in the correct place.

Don

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[SunTzuNephew]

The M416A1 models had the inertial brake controller. I've never actually seen one in person, though. Brakes in a 1000 lb trailer aren't requried anywhere I've lived.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Electric brakes on trailers work by energizing an electromagnet, which is attracted to the outside face of the drum. That magnet thus creates friction against that face. The magnet is attached to a lever arm, so that the magnet moves the arm. That arm spreads the drum brake shoes to engage the brakes.

 

[cgalpin]

I'm also interested in knowing if anyone sells kits to convert standard drum brakes to electric brakes.

 

[Martyn]

I'm also interested in knowing if anyone sells kits to convert standard drum brakes to electric brakes.

Not as far as I know.

 

[Root Moose]

I'm also interested in knowing if anyone sells kits to convert standard drum brakes to electric brakes.

Nope.

What are you trying to accomplish?

If you go to NAPA or similar you can buy the whole brake assembly that bolts onto the axle. This would include the backing plate, the internals including shoes, springs, electro-mechanical bit, drum, mounting flange, etc.

I bought parts to convert my trailer to 5 on 5.5" pattern. It was quite reasonably priced IIRC.

 

[cgalpin]

Nope.

What are you trying to accomplish?

Well, this is where it gets tricky. I have an axle off an old land rover defender and want to keep it because it also uses the suspension off an old defender and has the bolt pattern I need.

So if you are saying I can get an entire hub replacement keeping my 5 on 6.5 pattern then that would be awesome. But I'm expecting the answer is a big fat no.

 

[evilfij]

Charles, find a surge brake.

 

[cgalpin]

Are they independent of the coupler used? I have a lock n roll. Maybe it just has to be fitted inline regardless of the coupler, in which case that may be the way to go.

Are there any hydraulic but electrically actuated systems out there? So same concept as the others but using hydraulics for the braking. This would allow one to keep the same hubs/brakes. Sounds expensive and too much to go go wrong though

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I don't think that's uncommon. What you need to look for is "hydraulic over electric". I've seen that term a lot. Just not sure if it's electric ==> hydraulic or the other way around.

 

[REasley]

Hydrastar (Carlisle) builds an electric over hydraulic unit that comes with a rf remote. No wiring back to the trailer. I assume it's inertial. http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Carlisle/HBAC10-CLR.htmlhttp://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Carlisle/HBAC10-CLR.html

 

[cgalpin]

Sure looks nice, but too pricey. I like to think a surge setup that cat be fitted to a 2" receiver style setup would be cost effective. Haven't seen one yet that was either made for this or looked like it could easily be adapted.

 

[cgalpin]

This place is about 1.5 hours away from me and I think it's worth going to take a look at before buying, but seems to be what I need

http://www.centrevilletrailer.com/parts/part_detail.cfm?productid=436

It's weld on, and I'd need to cut off the 2" tube on my lock-n-roll and weld it to this.

$150 isn't too bad. Can be electrivally overriden, not sure if that is included in the price.

charles