Trailer build

[Amit]

I have been dreaming about building a off road teardrop camper for years now, haven't actually got to doing anything. Have thought about the harbor freight dinoot set up, but just didn't like how flimsy the HF trailers were, Fond the trailer online at a reasonable price, any thoughts! This is 6' wide by 7' deep.

 

[FireMedic82]

That's a pretty cool find. I really like the dimensions. Perfect for tubbing out and having wheel wells, while still keeping plenty of bed space, if exterior fenders aren't your preference. Mine is 5x7 with wheel wells. That extra foot of width would make so much of a difference when sleeping two adults.

What's your plans though? Keeping the majority of the structure as it sits, or doing some tearing down?

Is the cargo area made of aluminum, steel, or a combination of the two?

The rear hatches appear to have a great starting point as they are, if that's the plan.

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[Amit]

That's a pretty cool find. I really like the dimensions. Perfect for tubbing out and having wheel wells, while still keeping plenty of bed space, if exterior fenders aren't your preference. Mine is 5x7 with wheel wells. That extra foot of width would make so much of a difference when sleeping two adults.

What's your plans though? Keeping the majority of the structure as it sits, or doing some tearing down?

Is the cargo area made of aluminum, steel, or a combination of the two?

The rear hatches appear to have a great starting point as they are, if that's the plan.

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Thanks!
It is all steel, no aluminum, that was a concern with weight. My plan is to keep it as is drive-train wise. The rest, I have many ideas. It has the window on the sides, which makes the location awkward. Might just relocate the windows or change to doors on the sides and make the rear hatch into a kitchen like regular teardrop.

Don't know yet, open to all inputs.

 

[FireMedic82]

Thanks!
It is all steel, no aluminum.

I had a feeling it was. Seeing that it's been used for construction work, and has no visible dings throughout the sides or rear, the skinning may be pretty heavy gauge steel. My cabin frame is made of steel tubing, so I'm not one that is running lightweight, but that one could very well be quite a load once it's outfitted to your liking.

I'm not sure if it's the picture that's giving the appearance, but it looks as though the sides are double walled. As in, doubled to allow for enclosed side compartments for exterior access. If that's the case, and if were me, I'd plan to do quite a bit of tearing down to lighten the load. Even having what appears to be pretty hefty skinning would be something I would look into. If it is, I'd strip that off too. Do you know if it has a frame within the walls, or is it sheets of steel being used as most of the structural support?

Did the owner happen to give you an approximate dry weight?

I agree with you also, about the windows. To keep the job as minimal as possible, it doesn't leave you with much choice for door positioning.


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[Amit]

I had a feeling it was. Seeing that it's been used for construction work, and has no visible dings throughout the sides or rear, the skinning may be pretty heavy gauge steel. My cabin frame is made of steel tubing, so I'm not one that is running lightweight, but that one could very well be quite a load once it's outfitted to your liking.

It has what seems like 1" square tubing and the sheet welded to it.

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

Wow... that looks like an awesome place to start because its like 75% there already! I also agree that the HF trailers are less than stout, this is looking like a nice burly unit.

Following.

 

[FireMedic82]

It has what seems like 1" square tubing and the sheet welded to it.

If you haven't already purchased it, I would ask to find out if they know how much the dry weight is, and get an idea of the steel skinning thickness, just in case it comes down the need for cutting out holes for doors, windows, etc. If it's heavy steel, like 1/8th or more, I couldn't see any use in something less than a torch, or plasma cutter to make your cutouts.

Take a close look at it, if you can, or ask lots of questions, with some kind of idea, or plan in mind. That will help you figure out if it's something you want to dive into. Of course you can always just bombard with questions, and post them up here. There's someone here that can probably give sound advice on any details that you post up about it.

At first glance, it looks awesome, with so much there to start from, but it's starting to sound like a pretty daunting task, in my opinion. Not to sound discouraging though. Anything is doable, and that is still a pretty awesome spot to start from.

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[Amit]

If you haven't already purchased it, I would ask to find out if they know how much the dry weight is, and get an idea of the steel skinning thickness, just in case it comes down the need for cutting out

I haven't bought it yet, but the sheet is not that thick in my opinion, haven't measured it. Hooked it to my jeep and drove around, even with all his equipment in there it drove pretty good.

Not entirely sure though. Here is a picture of the plate from the manufacturer, seems like it was made for some testing equipment.

 

[ottsville]

Gvwr of 5k and cargo capacity of 500 should mean that it was 4500 lbs as it left the manufacturer.

Wonder what was originally in it?

 

[CampStewart]

That is a full perimeter frame. In order to put the tires under the body you would have to totally rework it, I would guess a shop would charge at least 2000 to be able to get the wheels under the body and add a few hundred pounds of weight. You could easily cut out for windows and doors with a sawzall or cutting wheels in a 4 inch grinder. I am sure that the bottom section under the clam shell unbolts and you could put a hinge on it and flip it down for access. You could also get it welded to the clam shell and have it open in one piece. How tall is the box? It looks like a stout well built trailer and add me to the list of those curious as to what was housed inside of it.

 

[FireMedic82]

I didn't come across many specs for it, but I did find this, and found it pretty interesting.

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/s...gasoline-calibration-trailer/21752-39126.html

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[FireMedic82]

Amit, I'm not sure about the extent of what it would require, but if you do plan to get the trailer, maybe framing for the cargo area will allow removal of the inner walls, so they could be replaced with wood. This is similar to my build. The inner walls I have covered with wood paneling, and the voids within that wall spacing, I used for cabinets. If the exterior skinning suites you, the openings could always be welded shut, and new openings cut out. Some modifications to the tubular framing may be necessary, but it wouldn't be too much of an issue, if you have the equipment needed.

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[Amit]

I think I'm gonna pass on this, I just think it's too heavy and a lot of work.if anyone is interested the trailer is at Lawrenceville, GA.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/781033942274919/

 

[Amit]

This was another idea I had, to use 80/20 aluminum to build, thought itll be easier than to learn to weld, but haven't done anything yet. Any thoughts!

 

[Hummelator]

This was another idea I had, to use 80/20 aluminum to build, thought itll be easier than to learn to weld, but haven't done anything yet. Any thoughts!

On my trailer I decided to weld the frame. I knew how to weld s that wasn’t an issue but lately I’ve been thinking about building a new frame from aluminum C channel and gusset plates top and bottom of every joint. I wouldn’t weld the aluminum but am strongly considering rivets and/or flush mount bolts. Do some research on bolt/rivet together aluminum frames.