Trailer Frame Feedback Request

1000arms

Well-known member
As for a handle, if you have a torch, get a piece of 1” ID pipe, put it in a vice and heat up a 12” piece of 3/8 cold rolled rod at the 3” mark. Stick it in the pipe and bend it to 90 degrees. (Let it cool) then do the other side at 3”. There is a handle. Weld it to the side of your frame. Simple, light and easy.
... Trailer handle: Weld two pieces of two inch long 2" square tubing to the spine, on top, and just behind the front receiver tube for the first, and about 18" back for the second. Then weld a piece of 1" square-wall (.120) to the top of each of the two short pieces of 2" square-wall. You'll have a handle you can grab with both gloved hands and easily move the trailer. :cool: ...
You have your method, I have mine. :)

I consider my method simple, light and easy too, although my method doesn't even require a torch, and allows for both a single or double handed grip. Heck, it even allows two people to grab the handle if needed. :cool:
 

bemerritt

Member
I truly welcome and am thankful for the spirited discussion I seemed to generate with a poorly designed trailer haha.

I actually am an engineer by day and love the several different ways to skin a cat discussions. A little more info might have helped, but overall it seems that I have a direction.

I have welded plenty of projects before, but was definitely going for strength over weight, just to compensate for the fact that I am not a professional.

I'll most likely do the following:
- running the spine full length
- some shorter, more angled A frame beams
- Less cross beams due to the added strength from the spine
- the tongue will extend much more than my original picture (which i should have disclosed from the get go)

Admittedly, this is modeled heavily based on turtleback trailers. They must be doing something right, or at least I will assume that. As I have no reason to not think they have thought this thru more than I ever will have time to. Some pics of their frames below and in the linked thread. They actually use 2x3, 1/8" tubing for a lot of their frame.


download.jpg

download.png
 

billiebob

Well-known member
I truly welcome and am thankful for the spirited discussion I seemed to generate with a poorly designed trailer haha.

I actually am an engineer by day and love the several different ways to skin a cat discussions. A little more info might have helped, but overall it seems that I have a direction.

I have welded plenty of projects before, but was definitely going for strength over weight, just to compensate for the fact that I am not a professional.

I'll most likely do the following:
- running the spine full length
- some shorter, more angled A frame beams
- Less cross beams due to the added strength from the spine
- the tongue will extend much more than my original picture (which i should have disclosed from the get go)

Admittedly, this is modeled heavily based on turtleback trailers. They must be doing something right, or at least I will assume that. As I have no reason to not think they have thought this thru more than I ever will have time to. Some pics of their frames below and in the linked thread. They actually use 2x3, 1/8" tubing for a lot of their frame.


View attachment 594080

View attachment 594089
Will trailer track match the tow vehicle track ?
 

1000arms

Well-known member
Will trailer track match the tow vehicle track ?
... Plan is to have it be on matching 285 70 17 tires. ...
I suggest you use matching tires and rims so that you can, if needed, use the trailer tires for extra spares for the tow vehicle. The rims should be a size match, including backspacing, but don't have to look like the tow vehicle rims. You could get new tires for your tow vehicle and use the replaced worn (but not too worn) tires for your new trailer.

Plan your trailer track to match the tow vehicle track with the above in mind. Matching track width is helpful in mud and/or snow.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Great input on the swingouts. Im trying to keep the length down while still accommodating larger RTTs, so i'll look into the 50 degree angle.

edited to add, the tongue was designed to be a 2" ID, so i guess i can extend it as needed and keep it short for storage.


A fold-away may work.

 

bemerritt

Member
I suggest you use matching tires and rims so that you can, if needed, use the trailer tires for extra spares for the tow vehicle. The rims should be a size match, including backspacing, but don't have to look like the tow vehicle rims. You could get new tires for your tow vehicle and use the replaced worn (but not too worn) tires for your new trailer.

Plan your trailer track to match the tow vehicle track with the above in mind. Matching track width is helpful in mud and/or snow.

Definitely planning on matching wheels/tires. Still need to look into the Timbren setup, spacers and offset to calculate where to put my rails to ensure similar track widths.
 

1000arms

Well-known member
Definitely planning on matching wheels/tires. Still need to look into the Timbren setup, spacers and offset to calculate where to put my rails to ensure similar track widths.
You could make a mockup of your axle setup. Use some wood instead of steel. Take measurements and compare them to your calculations, as a variation of the "measure twice to cut only once" idea.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Get the suspension, hubs / wheelset tires in place and all put together, verified good as chosen

before finalizing the measurements and welding the frame.

Nothing beats actually measuring and matching your center-to-center track widths to match IRL rather than in theory on paper.

Especially if using spacers / adapters, wow can those quickly become a hot mess!
 

bemerritt

Member
Get the suspension, hubs / wheelset tires in place and all put together, verified good as chosen

before finalizing the measurements and welding the frame.

Nothing beats actually measuring and matching your center-to-center track widths to match IRL rather than in theory on paper.

Especially if using spacers / adapters, wow can those quickly become a hot mess!

Agreed, makes sense to build from the ground up.
 

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