Well, there are tours you sign up with. :-( I usually go it alone. For the most part, if you don't make a campfire, you can camp just about anywhere up there. Providing, of course, there is a spot....gets kind of steep. ;-). The roads are challenging in and of themselves....everything from pavement, gravels, and plain old dirt! lots and lots of hill climbing and steep decent.
If you want, I have some fairly interesting routes from my previous trips. They hit most of the highlights and several of the old, built by hand, forts. Some of them (routes, not forts!) cross the French/Italian boarder multiple times (nothing but a painted rock to mark them)
