Trailside U-joint change

[Pad]

What slick methods/tools/gadgets do you use for a quick/painless u-joint change, trailside of course.
Just planning for the 'ifs' in life.

Recently I was thinking, if I had a plate bolted to the top of my ARB bumper (flat part) with a hole drilled through (plate & bumper) I would have a nice spot to pound the u-joint out. Either have an assistant hold the shaft or maybe run it sideways through the triangle part and clamp it for 1 person change. I could change the plate if it gets mashed and have a flat/tough spot to pound the new one in.

Not that I'm planning on it, but it would be better then standing alongside the road with your .....umm.....'shaft' in your hand.

Thanks for any tips,
Pad

 

[IntrepidXJ]

Personally, I do not like to change a ujoint in the field. I carry a spare set of axle shafts with good joints in them. I can have a broken shaft replaced in under 20 minutes on my XJ

 

[robert j. yates]

The Harbor Freight Ball Joint Kit doesn't work very well on ball joints but does work pretty good on axle u-joints. Its in a managable sized case and in a pinch, it will work on ball joints...just don't expect to use it again afterwards.

 

[adventureduo]

Personally, I do not like to change a ujoint in the field. I carry a spare set of axle shafts with good joints in them. I can have a broken shaft replaced in under 20 minutes on my XJ

Same here on my old XJ. I just carried spare shafts with inner and outer already connected and ready to go. On the new rig, i wont carry spares since it's overbuilt for what it is.

The Harbor Freight Ball Joint Kit doesn't work very well on ball joints but does work pretty good on axle u-joints. Its in a managable sized case and in a pinch, it will work on ball joints...just don't expect to use it again afterwards.

Heavy rocks and bailing wire works too.. ask me how i know

 

[IntrepidXJ]

The Harbor Freight Ball Joint Kit doesn't work very well on ball joints

actually, if you get the seperate ball joint adapter kit, it works great on ball joints, too

 

[BigAl]

With a sturdy bumper to beat on, you can get by with just a ball peen hammer. I used to mess with sockets and c clamps, until I saw an old timer knock one in and out with just a hammer. As long as you are careful to not crimp the bearings, a hammer is all you need.
Try it with an old joint some time

 

[opie]

With a sturdy bumper to beat on, you can get by with just a ball peen hammer. I used to mess with sockets and c clamps, until I saw an old timer knock one in and out with just a hammer. As long as you are careful to not crimp the bearings, a hammer is all you need.
Try it with an old joint some time

Thats all I used to change the front u-joints in an old F250 I had. Hammer and a workbench.

 

[robert j. yates]

actually, if you get the seperate ball joint adapter kit, it works great on ball joints, too

Agreed but the C is still prone to bending if you run into a nasty rusted in ball joint. Ask me how I know LOL.....I've returned 2 of them under warranty....for ball joints on just 1 axle.

 

[IntrepidXJ]

Agreed but the C is still prone to bending if you run into a nasty rusted in ball joint. Ask me how I know LOL.....I've returned 2 of them under warranty....for ball joints on just 1 axle.

I bent my first one, too....and then learned how to use it properly and haven't bent one again.

You if the ball joint isn't moving, do not keep cranking on the clamp just put a little pressure on it.....********** the inner-c with a hammer and it will make the ujoint move a little. then crank on the clamp again and repeat as necessary. if you are bending the clamp, you are cranking on it too long

my second clamp has lasted me almost 5 years now, with a lot of ujoint and ball joint changes

 

[Guinness44]

Hammer, and a socket (to be held and smacked just right). More control to hit just right.

 

[AndrewP]

Under adverse circumstances, I changed 1 once with 2 sockets, a hammer and a rock for a flat hard surface. It isn't pretty but it can work, at least on Toyota driveshaft yokes.

 

[sinuhexavier]

Under adverse circumstances, I changed 1 once with 2 sockets, a hammer and a rock for a flat hard surface. It isn't pretty but it can work, at least on Toyota driveshaft yokes.

...Or Land Rovers...

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Key I noticed is change it right away if you are in the field and don't have a spare shaft or don't want to ruin your existing one. I have melted them before by waiting too long and F'd, front wheel drive home hours before in the past. Not pleasant...

Another thing is especially if you have moved your transmission or have something aftermarket going on (ie an engine swap) it is a good idea to have spare shafts for your length as these are custom...

 

[Antichrist]

What slick methods/tools/gadgets do you use for a quick/painless u-joint change, trailside of course.
Just planning for the 'ifs' in life.

Brass hammer, snap ring pliers, C-clamp. If your u-joints are relatively new before an long trip, which I would hope they are, then remove the snap ring and several sharp blows on the yoke will pop the cup out. Flip it over and repeat. Use the C-clamp to replace.
Don't forget to have good grease in your kit as well.

 

[madizell]

I have never broken a drive shaft u-joint or axle shaft u-joint in the field without also destroying the yoke. The one time I broke a front axle joint, it took out the yoke ends, so replacement would not have been possible. I repaired it in the field with a Redi-Welder. Still have the shaft. It got me home and then some. Ripped up a front drive shaft joint once dropping off a 3 foot bank at 50mph, shattered the joint and yoke: picked up parts and pieces for 30 feet through the snow, put them together again and welded it all in place, then drove out 14 miles to pavement in February in Alaska through 2 feet of snow, ice covered trail, and 3 feet of water with ice ledges on both sides. The welded joint held even climbing out of that creek with a V-8 and a heavy foot, and the parts are still laying out here in the garage. Also dropped ball joints on the right front of the CJ once. The entire articulated assembly separated from the vehicle and was kept from rolling away only by the brake hose. Repaired that in the field the same way - with the welder. Again, the cap pockets were not going to hold a ball joint no matter what, so welding was the only way home. Those, too, lasted for far longer than the 60 miles back to the garage.

So I guess the opportunity to repair joints on the trail depends on how you drive and where. If you are hard enough on the equipment to break a joint but somehow gentle enough not to destroy the yoke at the same time, I suppose field repairs are possible with basic hand tools. But if you drive that gently that you don't tear up yokes, you should also notice that the joint is failing before it actually does. I like to lift both ends of the car and check drive shaft joints before going out into the woods. Joints are so much easier to fix at home.