Trans-America Trail and Beyond

Grabow

Adventurer
Glad you've enjoyed it! Make sure to stick around, we're not done yet. We still have probably a month or so in Mexico, and a month or so in the states making our way back to KY.
 

TerryD

Adventurer
I love the pictures you put up on here! How much do you owe on your Jeep? You might be better off to try to get it paid off quickly rather than have to start again with another vehicle with unknown issues with miles on it you haven't put there. People, even average point A-B people can do some real damage and not realize it till it's in a tight spot. A buy cheap and build plan usually winds up about 200% over budget after all the little things get taken care of.
 

Grabow

Adventurer
Hey, thanks on the pictures! Yeah, we owe a considerable amount on the jeep, it's a 2013 Rubicon Unlimited. We're thinking extreme budget build for the next vehicle. We want to try live as cheaply as possible, so we can travel as much as possible. We spent our entire savings on the jeep build, and on this trip, so paying it off quickly isn't really an option. Believe me, we've been considering all of our options for a couple of months now, but thanks for the input.
 

Jdc1

New member
This is one of my favorite in progress trips to follow. Thank you for documenting it. A 60 or 80 series Landcruiser might be a good budget platform to start with. They are tough, reliable, simple and have good parts availability.
 

Grabow

Adventurer
Glad you're enjoying our report, it makes it more fun to post when you know people are into it. Yeah, I've always loved the 60 series cruisers. I'm Trying not to get ahead of myself though, once we get home I'll just have to see what's available.
 

GetOutThere

Adventurer
I know I'm late chiming in here, but I have to agree with you on the Sea-To-Sky Highway in BC. The most beautiful road I have ever driven.

Great stories and photos. Well done. Looking forward to more.
 

Grabow

Adventurer
A Whole Lot of Waterfalls

When we left San Cristobal de las Casas, we made a giant circle back to it. First, Palenque. Then a route along the Mexico / Guatemalan border, stopping briefly at Yaxchilan for ruins, Las Nubes for the bluest river we've seen since Canada and El Chilfon to see a magnificent set of waterfalls. And finally back to San Cristobal.

At Yaxchilan, you're supposed to take a boat up the river to the ruins, but since we had just been at Palenque, we were all ruin-ed out. Instead, we had a few beers and snacks (In addition to awful pizza anywhere other than on the Oaxacan coast, Mexico has the worst french fries...go figure), hung out with some howler monkeys, made camp in a grass patch behind a hotel, and called it an early night.

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HowlerMonkey.jpg
Howler Monkey in a tree at Yaxchilan
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Camp spot

In the morning we headed for Las Nubes. Carley entered the coordinates into the Garmin and we were off! Except, sometimes our GPS takes us on the strangest routes. For example, the road to the Sima de las Cotorras (Sinkhole of Parrots from our last post) is well marked and paved. No GPS necessary, really. But we're slaves to it. GPS sent us zig-zagging though farmland on dirt roads, in the middle of nowhere, before finally meeting back up with said paved road. The route to Las Nubes was no different. We drove down and down a long, unpaved road, waiting out cattle, and catching confused looks from farmhands before reaching a dead end, just across the river from our destination. No bridge. Not for the Jeep anyway. Just a walking bridge, held up by a few ropes. The next hour was spent driving in circles trying to find a bridge that crossed the rushing blue river we were on the wrong side of. So we turned off the Garmin and got out a paper map (We know, wild).

Finally, we made it to the Nubes (pronounced like NEW-biss, we think) It's a really nice cabana rental resort that allows camping. The blue river rushing along side the resort (the main attraction) commanded respect. One slip up and you're going downhill fast. As we mentioned earlier, there's a swinging bridge, which leads to a few unofficial trails out to the small but powerful falls (in the US, you wouldn't be able to get anywhere near a river this dangerous, but it's Mexico, so of course we hiked out).

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Wild rushing river at Las Nubes

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Panoramic view of the falls at Las Nubes

Later, we hiked a more official trail, laid out by the resort, up to an observation deck to see where the river spilled out. Along the way we found a few structures that looked like they were supposed to be rental cabanas, but they had stopped construction mid-build and simply left them.(there seems to be a lot of this in Mexico) And it's easy to see how ruins get buried and become unrecognizable mounds of tropical dirt. In this environment, everything grows so quickly and is so lush, these structures, no more than a decade old, looked like modern ruins.


LasNubesfromDeck.JPG
View from the observation deck where the water from Las Nubes spills out the other side


The cabanas at the resort seemed really nice and they all have hot water. The camping area for truck campers is pretty non-existant, so we ended up in a small gravel area that smelled a bit like onions. We're guessing there was a compost pile near by. But the tent camping area is a lovely grassy lawn, and, since it's the off-season, completely empty. At night, the field of grass was lit up with fireflies and we sat and watched them for a while and talked about magic.

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LasNubesCamping.JPG


Next stop...El Chiflon!

At any other point of our travels, in any other part of the world, El Chiflon probably would have been a highlight, and don't misunderstand, it was absolutely stunning. But after days of amazing jungle scenery, ruins, monkeys, and more waterfalls than you can count, a place like El Chiflon can almost become "just another waterfall". Which is unfortunate, really.

The falls are situated on an amazingly blue river, that winds it's way through the jungle, dumping itself over several cliffs, each one more impressive than the last. As you make your way up the well-manicured path that follows the river, you begin to catch glimpses of El Chiflon. Once it comes into full view, you realize just how massive these falls are. Dropping an impressive 70+ meters over the sheer cliff above, the water turns into a windy mist as it hits the rocks below. So windy, that as you stand on the viewing platform near the base of the falls, it's hard to breathe in, it literally takes your breath away.

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ElChiflonBigFalls.jpg
El Chiflon from the viewing platform. No way to get a decent picture - the mist soaks you!

Perhaps, a bit of the magic of El Chiflon is lost in the tourism of the place. By most standards it's not overdeveloped, but in a place where things are so wild, so ancient and mysterious, a little development goes a long way in damaging the feel. Or, perhaps, the previous week or so of amazing, wild scenery had spoiled us. Either way, don't skip it; the place is truly amazing.

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Then back to San Cris (as we've heard other folks call it) for another week of pozole verde, the best croissants we've ever had and just enough of rapid environment change for Carley to get a wicked sinus infection. We can't say enough about San Cristobal. Not that we need to. Its charm can only be found by experiencing it. Go there.

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Since it gets cold at night in the mountains, and Carley is a giant baby (< Carley wrote that part) when she's sick, we decided to head back to the beach. Zipolite was just too good and we couldn't resist the urge to dig our toes in the sand once more before heading back to the states. So after a week in San Cristobal, we packed up and headed west!




Almost forgot! First turtle rescue in roughly six months! While in the jungle, just this side of Guatemala, we found a turtle in the middle of the road and snached him up. After narrowly escaping death (there was a big truck right behind us who just missed running him over), he was a bit camera shy.
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Turtle31.JPG

Turtles Rescued - 31 and counting!
 
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mapper

Explorer
Great updates. I didn't realize homeonthehighway was still traveling. Cool you ran into them.

If you have decent mechanical abilities I don't think it is that unreasonable to find an older/cheaper vehicle to travel in. I've put 10s of thousands of dead reliable miles on many vehicles that cost me next to nothing (As in under $2k). Yeah, you'll need to take of some maintenance straight away, but I think you can get a reliable rig for around $5k. You certainly need to know how to see parts starting to fail before it becomes a problem...that goes with those decent mechanical abilities. Even new cars will have things break or need repairs. The beauty of the older cars is that you can usually find competent mechanics at cheaper shop rates. Also parts tend to be cheaper.

Thanks for posting!
 

Grabow

Adventurer
Thanks! Yeah, homeonthehighway is actually "home" now. We bumped into them on their way back to the states.

As far as mechanical ability goes, I've been turning wrenches on one thing or another most of my life. Oddly enough, one of the vehicles that we've been seriously considering (that I see from your profile that you currently own) is an AWD Astro or Safari. Any thoughts on problems to look for, years to look for/avoid? What do you think of yours?

As a side note, I see you have an MG also. We've got an MGBGT sitting in a garage waiting for a restoration if I can ever get around to it.
 

Stroverlander

Adventurer
Enjoying reading your traveling adventures!

There are some good pros/cons threads in the 4WD van section if you're looking for a bit more info on the Astro platform. I may be slightly biased, but think it's a great all-around platform/workhorse and probably fairly underrated. While they may not ooze overlanding panache, perhaps that isn't necessarily a bad thing. :sombrero:

I've put a lot of work into my Astro and feel it's probably as mechanically sound as a 10+ year old vehicle can be (as I knock on my wood desk...). If you're mechanically inclined, they are not any better/worse than any other vehicles to work on with parts availability/cost/knowledge being some of the very strong points.

Pretty much they improved throughout the years - pre-'99 full-time viscous transfer case and SCPI (sequential port injection, 1 injector w/poppets), '00-up part-time electronic t-case, '03-'05 - (+'02) MPFI (multi-port injection, 6 individual injectors, improved reliability), six lug 16" wheels, larger four-wheel disc brakes (huge improvement in braking/durability), "X" engine with EGR delete (more reliable, less maintenance), slight larger turning radius (not great but get used to it...) and some other things I've forgotten about.

Factory options like RPO codes GT4 for 3.73 gears and G80 rear locker (Eaton) would probably be preferable for what you want to do.
 

Grabow

Adventurer
Excellent! Thanks for all of the Astro info, those are exactly the type of details I was hoping for.
 

mapper

Explorer
Strover knows his Astros. His is REALLY well done/maintained. His thread is loaded with great information. Also take a look at ihatemybike's stuff if you want to see what these vans can do with little investment or T.Lowe's or Herbies if you want to see what they can do with ample investment

My Astro is great for two people. Is it cool? Not in the obvious sense, but it is very cool in it's own special way. I think these will continue to gain a following.

Things I like:
-Dead reliable, I owned it thus far from about 180k to over 220k. Only debilitating issue I've had is a run down battery which was my own fault.
-Front and rear A/C that blows real cold
-ample power to cruise 85 all day if you desire burning that much fuel
-smooth ride at any speed
-lots of grunt for rough roads
-27 gallon fuel tank. easy 300-350 mile range, 400 if mellow highway cruising. runs great on 85 octane
-nice sized bed in back (on a 12" high platform with room to sit upright on platform)
-Dutch doors make a nice rain block on rear door
-flip open mid windows are nice for keeping it ventilated while parked/camping even in light rain.
-ability to walk through to rear from drivers/passenger seat
-CHEAP! I bought mine for $1800, did a full tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fluids), new pads&rotors, shocks (cheapy rancho 5000), ball joints, one front CV and few trim/electrical items (blower resistor, all door lock actuators, a window switch), new A/T tires, rear shackles and helper springs & small front torsion crank. All told I'm about $4-5k into it but have put almost 40k miles on it.
-People think its pretty cool once they see it up close, ride in it or see where it can go
- I don't stress about over-maintaining it because it is a 4.3L Chevy. I'll fix as needed. I'm not worried about finding a mechanic or parts in any small town in the US, Canada or Mexico if something goes south on a trip.

Cons:
-ABS speed sensor issues. I, like most budget owners, just live with the ABS light and regular, non-abs brakes
-Leaks oil (rear crank seal so I'm not fixing it until I need to pull trans for another reason)
-body fit and finish issues, (drivers door hinge is separating, slider door and countless other rattles on unimproved roads) Just not built to high fit/finish standards
-fuel pump concerns. I've had no issue but it seems common so I'm always a little nervous when in the middle of nowhere
-minor electrical issues. Nothing debilitating
-seats not the most comfortable. Though not terrible, I just have a Volvo for spoiling my butt.
-no easy way to mount a spare on rear gate (my 235 70 16 spare will fit factory location though)
-gas mileage. My long term average is 15.5 on 85 octane. I've had tanks up to 20 with a tail wind, city driving will drop me to 13.5-14. Apparently 2wds fair better in this regard.

I'm sure I'm overlooking a few things but I'll leave it there. I bought my Montero to try a "real" SUV. I like it a lot too, Also very affordable. It definitely can go a few more places, but when traveling solo I still worry about "stucks" in roughly the same places I'd worry in the Astro. Astro has more grunt which somewhat makes up for the lack of low range T-case. The ultimate trump for the Astro, however, is the relative comfort of the added space for sleeping, hanging out, or bringing gear. We travel with 3 dogs in the desert so that influences our space needs significantly. The Astro also stays MUCH cooler/better ventilated when parked in the sun, which is important to us, both are white. Fuel costs are about the same as Montero gets a hair better mpgs but prefers premium fuel. Astro drives much better on freeway and feels more planted/stable...less top heavy.

I thought heavily about moving to an AWD Express van to gain more space, get a newer van AND seemingly better MPGs. Though the latter might change once you add requisite oversized tires and do a small lift. I've held off because of cost and because I worry the long wheelbase of the Express will become a liability some of the places I'd really like to take it.
 
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Grabow

Adventurer
Hey, thanks for the detailed response! I'm definitely leaning more and more towards an Astro for our next build. It seems like possibly the most economic choice for what we're looking to do.
 

junglecaptn

New member
Could anyone comment on whether one could do the TAT from TN to OK in a standard Ram 1500 with AT tires? Considering this in early March before the spring storms/hot weather and then in June continue the TAT to OR on a WR250R. From ride reports it seems most of the first part of TAT could be done in a standard 4x4? I would be using Sam's maps.
 

Grabow

Adventurer
I don't think that you would have any trouble doing that portion in your truck. The majority of that section is mostly dirt county roads, you could probably do about 75% of that portion in a regular car. Of course there are all kinds of side trails to make it more interesting if you wanted. You should definitely do it, it's a beautiful trip.
 

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