Trans Labrador Highway and other places of interest 2010

derekdrew

New member
1987 Orma Lake Road Stranding Fuel Disaster (mine)

We drove this route (coming in from the west) in 1987 in my 1972 VW Bus. The road was so rumblly that by the time we got up from Quebec City to Labrador City (in 1 day) the bolts holding my engine assembly together came apart and then the accelerator was stuck on the full on setting and I could control the vehicle only by breaking or turning the key off. In Labrador City, the Police pulled us over to say that we were the 3rd vehicle to drive overland to Labrador City as the road had just been finished. The road east from there was not finished so they casually told me to drive my van up onto the top of the train double decker vehicle car, which I did. We got off the train in Esker and did some fishing. After leaving Churchill Falls, there was no sign, so we drove up Orma Road by mistake going directly north. There was a badwashout in the road that took us a day to get through, and that spot we saw and photographed the same black bear you did. Then, we continued on the bumpy ride, during which we drove with a lot of fat geese that could barely fly down the road and didn't want to leave it. When we got to the end of the road we thought something was odd because the trees were getting very short, so we wondered if we were going the wrong way instead of to Goose Bay. So, we kept driving until we just couldn't go any further. This was very, very, far. Nobody was on that road because of the bad washout we had got through, so we were all alone. We checked our compass and saw we had been driving and realized our mistake. We had not yet read the books about peope canoing through here and dying because of the remoteness. We then noticed that we were almost out of gas.... not enough gas to return south. We didn't know what to do. After a while we found a barrell on the side of the road and it selled like some kind of fuel, so we poured it into the gas tank. After that, the car would not run at all, and we realized we must have poured diesel fuel into the tank. After that, I found some two stroke motor oil/gas mixture we can for the canoe motor, and also poured this into the tank. With that, the car would run, but only if I kept it over 4,500rpm redline. So, we redlined it back to Churchill Falls and made up a story that my wife had got the gas and did not know the difference between diesel fuel or gasoline, and could they change our oil and gas. They were nice enough to do this for us for free, with a lot of joking about the wife's abilities. We were told to make up that story because the locals told us the hydro company dealt severely with anyone "stealing" fuel out of their barrels found in the wilderness. We found out later that you should never mix gasoline and diesel fuel together because the mixture is highly explosive. We drive to Goose Bay and took the ferry south, eventually driving the VW bus to New York City where we both had jobs as journalists and lived, and where we parked the van on the street. Two years later we heard about the 4x4 version of these vans, and I've been driving the 4x4 version ever since (see www.syncromadness.com).
 
NE...... Your gas can mount, could you explain how you did this, possibly with some photos? Also just got home from the 2nd attempt to do all of JBR and TTR the TTR is great and so remote and beautiful, did it in two days, including up to Caniapiscau, in the rain, but no dust and no fires this time! thanks, stay safe, M J McDowell

Here you go...
DSC03331.jpg


DSC03333.jpg


It's made out of plywood and 2x4's. It's mounted to my Yakima cross bars using U bolts and is painted with exterior house paint. I built it for this trip only. Notice it's mounted below the cross bars so it only sticks up above the height of the closed camper by a little bit. I might go with this idea in the future.
 
I am thinking of breaking from the UPO thing next year to go somewhere a little farther too. I just don't know where yet.

Brett, I can't say enough about Canada. In the lower 48 if you travel far enough you will eventually come back out to civilization. When you travel North it just keeps getting more and more remote until you run out of road.

My trip next year will be much closer. I can only do one like this every few years.
 
We drove this route (coming in from the west) in 1987 in my 1972 VW Bus. The road was so rumblly that by the time we got up from Quebec City to Labrador City (in 1 day) the bolts holding my engine assembly together came apart and then the accelerator was stuck on the full on setting and I could control the vehicle only by breaking or turning the key off. In Labrador City, the Police pulled us over to say that we were the 3rd vehicle to drive overland to Labrador City as the road had just been finished. The road east from there was not finished so they casually told me to drive my van up onto the top of the train double decker vehicle car, which I did. We got off the train in Esker and did some fishing. After leaving Churchill Falls, there was no sign, so we drove up Orma Road by mistake going directly north. There was a badwashout in the road that took us a day to get through, and that spot we saw and photographed the same black bear you did. Then, we continued on the bumpy ride, during which we drove with a lot of fat geese that could barely fly down the road and didn't want to leave it. When we got to the end of the road we thought something was odd because the trees were getting very short, so we wondered if we were going the wrong way instead of to Goose Bay. So, we kept driving until we just couldn't go any further. This was very, very, far. Nobody was on that road because of the bad washout we had got through, so we were all alone. We checked our compass and saw we had been driving and realized our mistake. We had not yet read the books about peope canoing through here and dying because of the remoteness. We then noticed that we were almost out of gas.... not enough gas to return south. We didn't know what to do. After a while we found a barrell on the side of the road and it selled like some kind of fuel, so we poured it into the gas tank. After that, the car would not run at all, and we realized we must have poured diesel fuel into the tank. After that, I found some two stroke motor oil/gas mixture we can for the canoe motor, and also poured this into the tank. With that, the car would run, but only if I kept it over 4,500rpm redline. So, we redlined it back to Churchill Falls and made up a story that my wife had got the gas and did not know the difference between diesel fuel or gasoline, and could they change our oil and gas. They were nice enough to do this for us for free, with a lot of joking about the wife's abilities. We were told to make up that story because the locals told us the hydro company dealt severely with anyone "stealing" fuel out of their barrels found in the wilderness. We found out later that you should never mix gasoline and diesel fuel together because the mixture is highly explosive. We drive to Goose Bay and took the ferry south, eventually driving the VW bus to New York City where we both had jobs as journalists and lived, and where we parked the van on the street. Two years later we heard about the 4x4 version of these vans, and I've been driving the 4x4 version ever since (see www.syncromadness.com).

Now that's an adventure!!!
 
On our drive up Orma lake road we drove by a cleared spot on the side of the road with about 20 or 30 55 gallon barrels. A hand painted sign on one of the barrels read "rare earth metals".

Today while surfing the web I found this article (dated 8/12/2010).
 
Last edited:

derekdrew

New member
Making A Deeper Adventure Out Of It

Aside from the snowmobile winter roads, there is another secret network of unpublished roads that the hydro company built that are very nice dirt roads, but these roads continually end and begin at the edge of lakes and restart on the other side.

What the hydro company did was to promise that they would build these roads and use them in the winter and so minimizing ecological damage while building hydro stuff up there.

So, it is possible to drive on many amazing and interesting adventures after the lakes have frozen, or alternatively if you can make your van float.

I am preparing my van for these trips now.

I'm just drumming my fingers over the sea ice anchor for winching to and the pontoon adapter kit for when the van goes through the ice.

When traveling a couple of hours west of Churchill Falls we were invited into a teepee of Indians and we thought how amazing that we found genuine Indians using teepees, what we thought was going to be a very special experience of natives living in the land.

As I got closer I couldn't figure out why there was a carpet of red coming out the teepee door and going down the embankment outside the teepee door as far as the eye could see.

When we got closer we realized that the carpet of red was Budweiser cans that they were throwing out the teepee door as they used them up.

The Indians were very excited to see us even though they did not really know where New York was or had heard of New York City because they thought we might have brought cocaine with us, and we had to disappoint them.

There is also a fantastic network of roads up in Schefferville at the northern end of the train line, and I have it in mind to take a four wheeling adventure up there. You must go on the train to get to Schefferville, partly because there are too many loose spikes on the train tracks, and too many train bridges. Also, I sometimes worry about the possibility that they will send a unscheduled maintenance train up the tracks on a day other than Tuesday and Thursday when the trains are supposed to run.

In Schefferville one time, when we were just about to start a many-hundred-mile canoe trip across the tundra to the arctic ocean, we went to the dump and watched the bears, which was great fun.

But the Indians up there were more dangerous than the Indians we had seen before, and they surrounded the pickup truck we had borrowed and we became frightened when we realized they were drunk and about to attack us.

I diverted their attention by telling them in French that there were bears nearby, and pointed to the bears eating out of mayonnaise jars a quarter the size of oil barrels.

Indian instinct took over, and all the indians abandoned us and began staggering toward the bears without any hesitation and the suspense was killing us as we wondered whether the Indians would be shredded or the bears just give them a hug. But the bears would run off whenever an Indian got within 10 feet even though they had to give up their mayonnaise jars. I guess they all already knew each other.

Anyway, driving around in Schefferville is a great summer vacation idea for off-roading and exploring and I have it in mind to do it in a bit.

You can see some of the ice roads I want to drive if you go on google maps and then switch to satellite view and then drive east from James Bay along the Taiga Highway and start the adventure by driving directly south from the Taiga Highway at intermediate points along that road (in between the end and the beginning). Except for where there are lakes, the road looks like a beautiful thing for 200 miles going south until it intersects a regular road. I'd bring a sawzall and bolt cutters in case we would have to cut out way out of a gate at the bottom end.

For the black flies and such, you just wear soft cotton highly breathable open mesh lightweight overgarmets that has been soaked in deet and you can go for a week between black fly or mosquito bites. We saw one guy who lacked such a thing and the flies had bitten his face so much that it looked like a bloody pulp and he could only see out of tiny holes where his eyes used to be, but his face was now swollen and red and there was no skin left visible on his head, just some raw eaten meat really. Watching this made it extremely difficult to continue our lunch in the worker's cafeteria and we were wondering why he had not been medivacked yet.

vanonbeach2.jpg
 

derekdrew

New member
As far as anything I ever experienced up there, you can go put your car on the trains anytime you want and to up to Shefferville, and then go down to the St Lawrence River, and then over to Labrador City, etc., as you wish. That's what we did. Motorcyclists sometimes take their bikes up the rails on adventures to Schefferville, skipping the train, but they have to contend with a lot of flats from the spikes. I asked them if I could drive my van up those tracks, and they said no way.

Indian instinct may not be the best choice of words. I am a small part Cherokee myself. It did not look to me like anyone who had any other experience than experience of the wild and the creatures that inhabit it would have responded as the locals did there after we pointed out these bears. There was no discussion or deliberation in their minds that we could tell before they immediately began walking directly steadily and without hesitation toward the bears and so their behavior seemed either traditional or instinctual, or a matter of practice or learning from their culture or environment, but not something that they deliberated intellectually with each other at the time. The contribution of their indianness to their behavior might have been a matter of their culture rather than anything genetic. Or, it could have nothing to do with their culture or indianness, and merely the product of having been drinking.
 

eleblanc

Adventurer
Schefferville. Last year i looked with friend in trying to reach scheffeville by road.

You might be interested by this thread

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17307

Back then i spoke with the DG of Tshiuetin, the company that manage train and the rail road to schefferville. From what i remember the cost was about 1300-1400 up and down, from labrador city to schefferville. The big problem is the down time. You have to leave your truck 48 hours before it gets loaded. So you basicly loose you truck 5 days, 2 days load, 1 day tripp and 2 days unload. Could be a bit faster depending on cargo but there aren't any guarantee. So if you plan on going to schefferville by train you loose a week minimum for travel up and down. For us it wasn't worth it, and i would much better like winching myself through muskeg.

I'd love to try this tripp, but from all the research we have done we would need to do a reconnaissance first with ATV and try to see more on site how the old roads along the railway looks like.

Just getting to esker with 2-3 ATV, camp at Esker and do 2-3 days of recci would be a nice initial expedition. Anyone up for that next year? :ylsmoke:
 

derekdrew

New member
Going from Labrador City to Esker on the train there was no wait at all. So, I wonder if you could go from Labrador City to Shefferville without losing a week. In addition to the train tracks method, I studied the topo quads and there does indeed appear to be a road built alongside the train tracks that I had it in mind to travel by winching, as you are thinking. But this road may not have seen a vehicle for decades.... I just don't know. I think that if somebody had driven it, we might have heard. Even if you go up that road, you still have to drive across the train bridges. For awhile, the road between Esker and Churchill Falls was washed away and they didn't want to fix it because of the expense, but locals pressured for them to fix the road anyway on the grounds that it is their land, and they need to use it, and the hydro people need to play nice. After that, I assumed that the road to Esker might have been repaired. When I was in Esker, I only had the 1972 VW camper and no winch or anything, so we didn't even look for the road north from there that I could see on the topos. I think winching up that road must be one of the greatest available adventures left if it were possible, so I have always found the idea compelling. I assume that any local asked about it would dismiss it immediately as impossible. On the other hand, any sane person would say the Darien Gap is impassible, and many have done it. The advantage in Labrador is that you can be sure that if you get kidnapped, it will only be by bears. I see that some of this has been covered. I posted another response over in the other thread at http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17307
 
Last edited:

clix

New member
The research i've done showed me the highest you can go is Esker, a small train stop. Going west after churchill you should have seen a branch going north west. This road take about 3-4 hours up to esker, Esker is about 80 km from Shefferville. Only way to shefferville is By train.

Awesome tripp you did, were there alot of flies, up there?

Can you post a map of esker and Churchill that you mentioned?
 

clix

New member
Oups looks like you are correct, but Esker is much closer to schefferville, but useless since you can't get there anyway.

The road seem to continu higher from where you stoped tho?
EDIT: i just saw you didn'T reach the end of the road!

Why so many flies there? Mosquitos too?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,500
Messages
2,886,711
Members
226,515
Latest member
clearwater
Top