Traversing the US (and back)

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Ouray to Telluride to Norwood, CO.

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There were some narrow sections, a few off-camber areas and towards the top the trail became very steep. The heavy cruiser's inline 6 struggled at altitude. Honestly there were some longer steep sections that I was nervous we might not make it up even in low-range gearing.

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It was both nerve-racking and exciting to drive into these basins that were completely walled in except for the trail we'd just ascended. It was fun to try to pick out where exactly the path would scale the walls and take us over to the other side.

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Again, this was the second day the pass was open and we were amazed at how little snow there was so early in the season.

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It was fun to drive through...

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and made for some fun pictures.

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At the high-altitude point of our trip!

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Great views though these are only a few of the photos we took.

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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Ouray to Telluride to Norwood, CO.

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More photos from the top.

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Looking south into the heart of the San Juans.

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Looking at the Sneffels Range. A more trained eye could pick out the specifics peaks.

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And then the ride down into Telluride.

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The road (you can see it down in the valley) was in perfect shape. There was nothing to it and we soon learned why.

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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Ouray to Telluride to Norwood, CO.

So at the top we were met by a bunch of Chevy pickup trucks with tourists packed in the back like animals going to market. Except that they were paying for this ride up to the top of Imogene among other destinations. We stayed at the top for longer than they did but met up with them further down the mountain.

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So we come around a bend and see one of the trucks from the summit and it's completely empty. Strange.

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Then we pass a few women milling around the front of it and just down the road we pass by this group. We all had a good laugh.

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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Ouray to Telluride to Norwood, CO.

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Looking back up the basin we'd crossed into. Bridal Veil Falls, Telluride.

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First view of Telluride, following a Pinze.

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Looking at Black Bear pass switchbacks. We'll have to save that for our next trip.

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Free fun in Telluride: Gondola, city pool, hiking, floating down the river that goes through town.

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jessejman

Adventurer
Days 12, 13:
After "surviving" the mountain passes we finally arrived at our first "destination" of the trip: the home of April and Kelvin in Norwood. We've visited them a number of times over the years. They are tons of fun! April is an amazing cook and Kelvin is a genius at just about everything solar and off-grid living. Oh, they've traveled extensively in Baja, even got married down there. You would have seen them driving an orange Chevy camper van kitted out with sea kayaks and bikes that they would take down from Telluride and give away to townsfolk south of the border. They were so kind to give us a room to stay in and let us enjoy the luxuries of warm showers and a kitchen for cooking.

Day trip to Montevista Reservoir to paddle around, catch crawdads, fish and have a big picnic.

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Hanging out; just drinking a beer and wearing a cool, purple Hannah Montana life jacket. Nothin' wrong with that. [bottle was empty by the way]

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The only picture we took of them all weekend!

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Their cool house! Totally off the grid. Rain water collection system for running water and solar array for power. View at sunset from their driveway.

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Kelvin took Bailey into town to fill up the supplemental water tank. They primarily use rain water collection but with an extra 5 guests in town who were in desperate need of showers and laundry, needless to say they needed more water.

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While there Kelvin predicted that Larkin would be walking by the end of the trip. I wasn't so sure but she enjoyed the smooth flat floors.

Kelvin working with his bees. We definitely want a hive when we get home.

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Watching from the sidelines. Cheering him on and asking lots of questions.


Bailey was fascinated! We will be getting hens in September and bees in April.


Whilst having an amazing visit with April and Kelvin, I was working out the car situation. Kelvin took me to his mechanic who was extremely knowledgeable (and knew it) and spent much of his time working on cars for locals (read 'wealthy people from Telluride). After driving the car he agreed that there was probably some wear/play on the front wheel bearings and that he could probably get my truck in the shop on Monday if I could find the parts. The labor was going to be expensive, very expensive for what I'm used to, almost prohibitively expensive. Having never taken my Cruiser to a mechanic I was unhappy but had my hands somewhat tied as I lacked the special tools and experience to do the job. At least, that's how I felt. It would also mean a delay and with all of our kids under a small roof we were feeling pressure (probably needlessly) to move on. We'd already broken half of the glasses they owned! Clumsy kids, I know. Uh, clumsy parents too. I broke at least one glass.
So I bought the parts on Saturday and we settled in to wait until Monday when the mechanic could probably get it done. I was to show up at his shop at noon.
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 14: Norwood to Grand Junction

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Monday began early by packing up the car and heading over to the mechanics for what I though would be a couple hour job. Mistake number one. I'd read through the procedures the night before but hadn't allowed enough time. I should have left the family at the house but instead we packed up and I dropped them off at the town park.

When I got to the mechanics at 12 sharp I was basically ignored for more than fifteen minutes. I'm a fairly patient guy but maybe I was off that day. I was frustrated. When I was finally acknowledged the mechanic (a very skilled guy) checked my parts to make sure they were right and sure enough the inner bearing races were the wrong part. I hadn't checked at the store when I bought them. Great, another set back time-wise and now he's thinking:a) this customers an idiot, b) he can't fit the work in/doesn't want to and c) I get the feeling he doesn't want me 'hanging around' or trying to help as the work is done. Remember, I've never had anyone do work on the truck other than me.

I went and picked up the correct races but I was really hesitant about going back to the shop. I was put off to say the least, maybe even a little offended. To be fair, the mechanic had offered to let me break the hubs down to cut some of the cost and he was knowledgeable and he was not trying to rip me off. He was fair. But I still couldn't do it. So I did something shameful.

I went back to the shop to retrieve the other parts and told him that I couldn't get the races in town (even though I had them in my possession). I should have told him the truth but I didn't really know what the truth was and I found it pretty hard to say, "I don't know exactly what's wrong here but I'm going to take my chances and find another solution even though I have no other solution." I could have said that, I guess, but I felt like an idiot and I didn't really want to offend this guy who really was going to help me and was being fair with his price.

So, having turned away from someone who was willing to help me out/fix the problem, I wandered over to the only cafe in town, pulled out the laptop and put out a last-ditch distress call on ih8mud.com, a dedicated Land Cruiser Internet Forum. The title was "Help in SoWest Colorado." I briefly explained my problem, where I was and what I needed. I tried to make it clear that I needed to the job myself due to budget constraints. Within minutes, literally, someone from Durango, three hours southeast, was on the phone with me, helping me diagnose and trying to find the tools I needed (54mm socket wrench, spring gauge, torque wrench) locally. Another hour and another guy in Grand Junction, Co had offered to let me use his tools and his garage for the night. I was amazed. I'd never met these guys; I'd never written to them on the forum. And yet they, and their friends, jumped in to help us when we really needed it.
Grand Junction was more on the way to Moab, UT, so that's where we headed to meet Jon H.
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Worry over the vehicle kept us from frustration about deviating from our route.

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And I was thrilled to have another option for doing the work but nervous as this was serious undertaking.

Somewhere in this area, outside of Gateway, Co, we overheated on a long climb. We never made it to the red but the coolant was boiling and spilling out of the expansion take and we had to wait an hour before attempting again to make the top of the climb and the descent into G.J. that would hopefully keep our engine cooler.

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I was really frustrated with these two problems that kept nagging at our progress (the cooling issue had been somewhat ongoing throughout the trip but became a real problem in the 100+ degree weather) and I was ready to turn around and head back home. Well, assuming we could fix the bearings! We made it into Grand Junction feeling pretty rotten but glad to be in a 'big' city where we could at least find parts and where we had a friend we'd never met.

At Jon's house I worked from 630 until 130am installing the new bearings. Jon had printed the Service Manual out for me and even stayed up until midnight helping/teaching me! What a hero. No pics of the work as it was dark and my hands were covered in thick grease the whole time.

Oh, I will note that when we put the truck up on stands and tested the vertical play of the wheels (there should be none) both sides had an alarming amount of play, worse than either of us had ever experienced first hand. Once we opened up the hub it was no surprise as whoever had previously owned the truck had done a hack job of torquing the bearings down leading to very premature failure.

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Here I am with Jon, holding my new fan clutch which he took me to get at 8am before he went to work. You can also see his sweet 100 series Land Cruiser that he uses often in the mountains and the desert out there. I'm jealous of all the open spaces at his doorstep. The guys at Safari Limited hooked me up with a great deal on their last (and the last in Grand Junction) fan clutch (which would hopefully solve my cooling issues). I can't say enough good things about these guys. If either of them are ever on the east coast I owe them (more) beer!
 
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SFROMAN

Adventurer
Sir,
Thank you for posting up a great trip report and taking the time to answer questions with detailed information. I have 3 kids as well and currently planning to head down south for the Maya rally in Dec so much of the information will be invaluable to my family and I.

great looking family. and great pics.


Your report is exactly what I needed since I am currently stuck in a rd world country in transition phase trying to get back to the states. Reading and looking at your pictures is making the 100 plus degree weather more tolerable.

look forward to seeing more
DEL
 

Nomadllc

Born nomadic
This trip just keeps getting better all the time! It never seems to amaze me at the support that comes in from the 4x4 community in those situations. Keep up the great posts and thanks for sharing this awesome trip!
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Your report is exactly what I needed since I am currently stuck in a rd world country in transition phase trying to get back to the states. Reading and looking at your pictures is making the 100 plus degree weather more tolerable.

look forward to seeing more
DEL

Oh, I hear you. The desert heat took some getting used to but it was still better than the super humid heat of the tropics and sometimes the Southeast US. It's finally starting to cool off here.

This trip just keeps getting better all the time! It never seems to amaze me at the support that comes in from the 4x4 community in those situations. Keep up the great posts and thanks for sharing this awesome trip!

Thanks guys!
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 15: Grand Junction to Moab via Kokopelli Trail

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I was expecting the routing to be fairly easy on this trail and did not have any routes plugged into the GPS. We did have the Utah Gazetteer and had it marked on there. Ended up that wasn't really enough. We made due but routing was confusing to say the least.

And in the end we didn't get to complete the Kokopelli nor did we even get to do any really technical sections of trail. I was disappointed to say the least but there was no other option. And so we limped back into Moab along the Green River. Photos coming soon.

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Why would anyone choose the middle of June to do a run of the Kokopelli? There was a large group running a race along the singletrack portions of the trail.

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The neighbors.

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Any guesses as to what went wrong?
 
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We tried to do the trail between Fish Ford and Dewey bridge with no luck. Super tight trail with trees down and such.

Again, thanks for posting, I'm along for the ride!
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 15: Grand Junction to Moab via Kokopelli Trail

On the climb up the side trail to Top of the World, the engine temp began rising once again. It elevated on most climbs already but this time it was consistent and rising and there was no end to the climb in sight. Oh, and all this without the A/C running. Outside temps were around 110 and inside the car it was pretty miserable. Wrong time of year. So we did a 32 point turn and cruised back down to the pavement and into Moab in retreat. Once in Moab, I waited a long time for things to 'cool down' enough for me to take another look at the cooling system. Everything seemed to be in order. The fan was pulling air, the coolant mixture was right and full, water pump pumping. Some quick background: I completely rebuilt the cooling system three months before the trip: new radiator and cap, new water pump, new hoses everywhere, new thermostat.

The only thing I could think of was that the Koyo radiator that I bought may have been low quality as I got it on Fleabay or the A/C system that I'd recently had recharged was faulty/overcharged?. A quote from the guys at Safari Limited in Grand Junction: "Not all Koyo is made equal. Always buy from a trusted distributor." Well, I'm learning my lesson.

So as a last ditch effort I sealed up all cracks between the fan shroud and the radiator with tape and even bought some foam and squeezed it into some of the larger gaps hoping to increase flow to the rad.

While I did this and tried to figure out our next move, the family waited in a little restaurant. It was too late for lunch and too early for dinner so they sat down and ordered milk shakes. My wife told me that our four-year old daughter sat down and said loudly, "Whew, I could really use a beer right now!" I'm sure my wife turned red as the heads turned her way. I was also drawing attention out in the parking lot with the hood up and the sweat from my body making a stream through the street. (Actually, I had to continuely spray the pavement with water so I could get under the truck.)
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 15: Moab - Green River - The Steeps

Not having anything else to do but push try to find a place to camp, we decided to continue with our route but bypassed lots of interesting stuff in Moab. We'd been there before and run some of the popular stuff but we were hoping to do the White Rim and get some mountainbiking in. Oh well, Moab is a destination in itself and we were sure we'd be back some day when it wasn't so hot.

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So we headed towards Green River and then south back into emptiness. Our route took us down a gravel road, then onto an old deserted and deteriorating section of pavement and over a bridge of the same quality.

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There were no trespassing signs and it seemed like a development had been planned there but never happened.

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We ignored the signs and quickly regained public lands in a narrow canyon called 'the Steeps' in the gazatteer.

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It was a really beautiful place and we decided it was perfect for camping.

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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 15: Moab - Green River - The Steeps

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While we were setting camp and cooking, the kids ran around and played on the surrounding hills.

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And I kept noticing this cool looking canyon about a half mile away. So with the sun quickly setting we went for a hike.

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The sun had long set and it was almost dark when we got back to the car. Here are two shots I took earlier that evening of where we camped; there was no time for photos and it was too dark on the way back.

Our plan for the next day was to wake up early and use the cooler morning hours to get through the San Rafael Swell and the heat of the desert. Hopefully we'd be in the mountains by mid-day and it wouldn't be quite so hot. From there we were looking towards Salt Lake City and our next stop where we'd hopefully fix this cooling demon for good.
 
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