Tray build

[skyhook88]

Like to start off by saying thank you for letting me join the group.

I'm in the process of starting the design of my build. I have a 2012 Ram 3500 6' 6" box. I'm going to be building my own aluminum tray and was looking to see what other manufacturers used for the main rails? I'm thinking of going with either a 4" or 6" x 1/4 aluminum channel. What are your guys recommendation? The cross members will be 2 x 2 x .188" on 12" C/C.

I've tried to buy just a set of CAD drawing from a manufacture and have come up empty handed.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ExpoMike]

I have been researching something similar for my 2000 Ram 2500 long bed. Here's a build using aluminum. I haven't found many, most are steel and heavy.

 

[1000arms]

You might look at Duramag Truck Bodies:

Aluminum Pickup Truck Flatbeds - Flatbed Dump Body

Maximize your truck's potential with an aluminum pickup truck flatbed. Explore DuraMag Bodies now and shop for flatbed dump bodies that fit your business!

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Aluminum Flat Bed - Cab and Chassis Flatbed - DuraMag Bodies

Discover the unmatched quality of aluminum cab and chassis flatbeds. Shop now at DuraMag Bodies to remodel your vehicle with premium aluminum flat beds.

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Aluminum Straight Truck Flatbed - Flatbed Headboard

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duramagbodies.com

 

[skyhook88]

Hi ExpoMike

Awesome. Thanks for sharing.

I have been researching something similar for my 2000 Ram 2500 long bed. Here's a build using aluminum. I haven't found many, most are steel and heavy.

 

[IdaSHO]

Id suggest visiting a dealer that carries similar beds, and take notes.

Also, as one that has built a few beds, good luck with the build.
Lots of great ways to build a bed. The latest (and likely final) bed I've built I decided to reverse the C-channel.
I wish I would have thought about doing so earlier!

So again, if I were you Id be looking hard and long at beds you can inspect yourself as to how things are put together.

Here is the latest, that performs all kinds of duties, including hauling a custom camper.
It has a steel frame, and steel rails, and skinned with aluminum.
And going with a reverse C-channel, everything from lighting to tie downs were recessed.
This bed also has a set of roll out stairs for camper access.

 

[skyhook88]

Thanks IdaSHO

Nice truck

Id suggest visiting a dealer that carries similar beds, and take notes.

Also, as one that has built a few beds, good luck with the build.
Lots of great ways to build a bed. The latest (and likely final) bed I've built I decided to reverse the C-channel.
I wish I would have thought about doing so earlier!

So again, if I were you Id be looking hard and long at beds you can inspect yourself as to how things are put together.

Here is the latest, that performs all kinds of duties, including hauling a custom camper.
It has a steel frame, and steel rails, and skinned with aluminum.
And going with a reverse C-channel, everything from lighting to tie downs were recessed.
This bed also has a set of roll out stairs for camper access.

 

[Mrkyak]

My thanks to Expomike as well. My 2023 Ram 3500, 6.7L, crew cab, SWR, 8’ bed should arrive in a couple weeks. Since placing the order in October I’ve spent many hours looking into aluminum flatbeds. After finding Expomike’s video, I saw the light. Today I ordered the HTP Pro 220 MTS mig welder. Flatbed structural design is still uncertain. I’d sure like to keep flatbed height as close to the stock bed as possible. I have a Outfitter Mfg Apex 8LB pop up camper to mount on the flat bed.
Keep posting the research ideas you guys find and I’ll do the same.

 

[ExpoMike]

I keep swinging back and forth on a pre done flatbed or building my own. We'll see how I feel about it, after my knee replacement surgery next month.

 

[Alloy]

I have been researching something similar for my 2000 Ram 2500 long bed. Here's a build using aluminum. I haven't found many, most are steel and heavy.

He's lucky to have his fingers and won't if he keeps working with aluminum the same way.

Aluminum can be cut with tools used for wood but IT'S NOT wood. When (not if) the blade (fly wheel with teeth) catches the kick back is 1000 times worse than wood.

Use a miter saw not a compound miter saw to cut aluminum. When the saw kicks back the motor can rip off trunions. I've seen it happen with 2 saws.

Never cut anything that can't be clamped on 1 side. If something moves you'll never hold it. If your lucky the piece gets ripped out of your hand before reaching the blade.

Don't stand (or let anyone else) on the side of the saw if there's a small piece the blade may catch and fling in the air. I've had pieces hit the roof 25' up.

He needs cutting wax on the blades. I use the stuff from Lennox. There's a fine line beween using too little or too much which will cause porisity. Best to clean it off with achohol.

I use carbide non ferrous blades. The teeth have zero or better negative rake. The zero/neg rake prevents the blade from self feeding, reducing kickbacks.

He doesn't show if he test the weld by back breaking. He welds with the nozzle (stick out) too far away and I can see porosity in the welds.

Always tack (as much) before welding. At 29:06 you can see the straight edge of the sheet metal does follow the aluminum tube that's been distored from welding.

Pulse is easier but slower than straight CV which results in more distorsion.

Don't bolt the deck the way he's done. U bolts are better.

I'd have gussests all over it.

That's enough for now ...

 

[sn_85]

I keep swinging back and forth on a pre done flatbed or building my own. We'll see how I feel about it, after my knee replacement surgery next month.

If you're knee replacement surgery is next month I'd honestly just get it built for you. You never know how your post op recovery will go and that piece of metal in your knee is a lot more expensive and valuable than the metal on the flatbed.

 

[Mrkyak]

Thank you for sharing some wisdom. “A smart man talks, a wise man listens.”
when using u bolts to mount the tray, do they go around the frame like leaf springs on an ax

He's lucky to have his fingers and won't if he keeps working with aluminum the same way.

Aluminum can be cut with tools used for wood but IT'S NOT wood. When (not if) the blade (fly wheel with teeth) catches the kick back is 1000 times worse than wood.

Use a miter saw not a compound miter saw to cut aluminum. When the saw kicks back the motor can rip off trunions. I've seen it happen with 2 saws.

Never cut anything that can't be clamped on 1 side. If something moves you'll never hold it. If your lucky the piece gets ripped out of your hand before reaching the blade.

Don't stand (or let anyone else) on the side of the saw if there's a small piece the blade may catch and fling in the air. I've had pieces hit the roof 25' up.

He needs cutting wax on the blades. I use the stuff from Lennox. There's a fine line beween using too little or too much which will cause porisity. Best to clean it off with achohol.

I use carbide non ferrous blades. The teeth have zero or better negative rake. The zero/neg rake prevents the blade from self feeding, reducing kickbacks.

He doesn't show if he test the weld by back breaking. He welds with the nozzle (stick out) too far away and I can see porosity in the welds.

Always tack (as much) before welding. At 29:06 you can see the straight edge of the sheet metal does follow the aluminum tube that's been distored from welding.

Pulse is easier but slower than straight CV which results in more distorsion.

Don't bolt the deck the way he's done. U bolts are better.

I'd have gussests all over it.

That's enough for now ...

He's lucky to have his fingers and won't if he keeps working with aluminum the same way.

Aluminum can be cut with tools used for wood but IT'S NOT wood. When (not if) the blade (fly wheel with teeth) catches the kick back is 1000 times worse than wood.

Use a miter saw not a compound miter saw to cut aluminum. When the saw kicks back the motor can rip off trunions. I've seen it happen with 2 saws.

Never cut anything that can't be clamped on 1 side. If something moves you'll never hold it. If your lucky the piece gets ripped out of your hand before reaching the blade.

Don't stand (or let anyone else) on the side of the saw if there's a small piece the blade may catch and fling in the air. I've had pieces hit the roof 25' up.

He needs cutting wax on the blades. I use the stuff from Lennox. There's a fine line beween using too little or too much which will cause porisity. Best to clean it off with achohol.

I use carbide non ferrous blades. The teeth have zero or better negative rake. The zero/neg rake prevents the blade from self feeding, reducing kickbacks.

He doesn't show if he test the weld by back breaking. He welds with the nozzle (stick out) too far away and I can see porosity in the welds.

Always tack (as much) before welding. At 29:06 you can see the straight edge of the sheet metal does follow the aluminum tube that's been distored from welding.

Pulse is easier but slower than straight CV which results in more distorsion.

Don't bolt the deck the way he's done. U bolts are better.

I'd have gussests all over it.

That's enough for now ...

Thanks Alloy for sharing some wisdom. “A smart man talks, a wise man listens.” I’m listening!
With using u bolts, do the fit around the fame like leaf springs to an axle? Are they U shaped or have corners? If the main stringers run on top of the frame, parallel
, how would U bolts attach to it? How do you minimize deck height while maintaining enough structural strength? I really don't want to use 4x6 rectangular tube, seems like pushing height that much could be asking for issues with sway and offroad handling. Thanks again for the tips.

 

[Alloy]

[QU

Thank you for sharing some wisdom. “A smart man talks, a wise man listens.”
when using u bolts to mount the tray, do they go around the frame like leaf springs on an ax



Thanks Alloy for sharing some wisdom. “A smart man talks, a wise man listens.” I’m listening!
With using u bolts, do the fit around the fame like leaf springs to an axle? Are they U shaped or have corners? If the main stringers run on top of the frame, parallel
, how would U bolts attach to it? How do you minimize deck height while maintaining enough structural strength? I really don't want to use 4x6 rectangular tube, seems like pushing height that much could be asking for issues with sway and offroad handling. Thanks again for the tips.

Flat top U-bolts or drill 2 holes in 1/2"x 2" flat bar and use redi-rod. Another way is to weld alum flatbar or angle (vertical) in a place where it can be bolted to the frame.

Find out if there's an up fitter guide for you vehicle.

https://madocumentupload.marketingassociates.com/api/Document/GetFile?v1=7711214&v2=022823123659&v3=60&v4=277d8a181208305f5f0538ed7ea3edd0655b4d180a4464e0f0350551&v5=False

Why 4x6? 2x2 works if the connection are done properly. Rails make the build easier but they aren't necessary. Mounting cross members to the frame is harder + takes more time. It may not be worth doing as tire clearance is often the controlling factor