TRD off road package a good value?

[Clutch]

Thanks for your thoughts everyone! Any recommendations on upgrading suspension? What are the other goodies are must haves?

I am also trying to decide between the manual and auto transmission. I drive a manual truck at work but the auto would be nice for all those highway miles. Is the auto durable enough to trust to in the middle of nowhere while looking for surf in Baja?

Dan

Don't really need to shift very often running down the highway. Auto's are plenty durable enough for off road, even more so than a manual trans, why you see the majority of desert race vehicles with an auto trans. If you're fairly new to driving off pavement, (even though I am a manny trans enthusiast) I would recommend an auto, it will ease some of the stress.

 

[Crom]

I can recommend the TRD off road Tacoma. I've been all over the place

 

[doubleroses]

My wife and I are new into Overlanding but we have a 2013 TRD OR and love it. It runs stock minus some Duratracs. We've been all over Ouray and Telluride and didn't have a single issue. I didn't even have to lock the rear at all. Get it, learn it, love it

 

[I Leak Oil]

I guess you have to ask yourself if you are really up to doing the upgrades to the SR5 yourself or are you going to pay someone to do them? Once you start to pay someone, it will become more expensive.....and quickly...

On the other hand, you can build it exactly the way you want but do you want to spend your time working on it or driving and enjoying it?

I just picked up a 2013 Tacoma TRD with the OR package. Not because I wanted the OR package per se, but because it was on the lot, low miles and in great shape. The package just happen to be a side benefit. Went from a 2004 Silverado that needed too much work to make it worth keeping to this just because I still wanted a pickup but didn't need a full size any more.

Love working on my vehicles but not a daily driver and I still have my series trucks to work on when I need my fix!

 

[DaveInDenver]

The TRD package is probably not a great value but I searched specifically for one with this 2008 we just got because my 1991 was a base model that I built up (there was no TRD back then anyway) and there is some advantage to having the locker installed and wired by the factory. My Air Lockers worked fine but never really sealed perfectly. They spit oil from the solenoids the whole time I had them. Then when I took them out the rear locker tube looked to have been kissed by the ring gear and was [this] close to splitting. But other than the locker the suspension on the TRD isn't anything to brag about and will get replaced eventually. The seats are nice.

Don't really need to shift very often running down the highway. Auto's are plenty durable enough for off road, even more so than a manual trans, why you see the majority of desert race vehicles with an auto trans. If you're fairly new to driving off pavement, (even though I am a manny trans enthusiast) I would recommend an auto, it will ease some of the stress.

I won't drive automatics unless there's no other option, but I completely agree a stick shift in 2015 is an anachronism, a bone that a couple of manufacturers still throw to a dwindling subset of Gen-X 40-somethings that grew up with them and can't imagine a Toyota with anything else. Most people have moved on and got with the program. Meh, I still like the illusion that I'm in control.

 

[Clutch]

The TRD package is probably not a great value but I searched specifically for one with this 2008 we just got because my 1991 was a base model that I built up (there was no TRD back then anyway) and there is some advantage to having the locker installed and wired by the factory. My Air Lockers worked fine but never really sealed perfectly. They spit oil from the solenoids the whole time I had them. Then when I took them out the rear locker tube looked to have been kissed by the ring gear and was [this] close to splitting. But other than the locker the suspension on the TRD isn't anything to brag about and will get replaced eventually. The seats are nice.

Some non-TRD trucks are pre-wired for the e-locker. If you do all the work yourself you can build a better performing vehicle with after market for roughly the same cost as the TRD package. As you said the TRD suspension isn't all that great, mine was clapped out sooner than later. Had to upgrade it anyways. Can always pull salvage yard seats or buy aftermarket.

I won't drive automatics unless there's no other option, but I completely agree a stick shift in 2015 is an anachronism, a bone that a couple of manufacturers still throw to a dwindling subset of Gen-X 40-somethings that grew up with them and can't imagine a Toyota with anything else. Most people have moved on and got with the program. Meh, I still like the illusion that I'm in control.

I really don't like auto's. There is something zen-like rowing your own gears. My buddy's VW Jetta Wagon auto, has brake assist...which is really odd to me...I certainly don't need help shifting my own...and especially don't need any help braking!

We are dinosaurs Dave...the driverless vehicle day is coming sooner rather than later...majority of kids today don't care about driving. Which...might be ok, means less people out on the trials...I dunno, I think forums like this are kinda ruining the hobby. Should be telling people to watch more football and play video games.

So yeah to the OP...don't buy a Tacoma they are junk... buy a Kia whatever...go watch more football. [/sarcasm]:sombrero:

 

[DVexile]

Some non-TRD trucks are pre-wired for the e-locker. If you do all the work yourself you can build a better performing vehicle with after market for roughly the same cost as the TRD package. As you said the TRD suspension isn't all that great, mine was clapped out sooner than later. Had to upgrade it anyways. Can always pull salvage yard seats or buy aftermarket.

One of the important things to remember is the TRD comes essentially with all the SR5 options too. So if don't want all that interior fanciness and would prefer to go base then the TRD is making you buy a whole bunch of stuff not related to off-road performance and most definitely you can do better building your own.

On the other hand, if you were going to get an SR5 anyway then I think you'd be hard pressed to beat out the TRD OR. It only costs $1.5K more than SR5 and you get the locker, ATRAC, DAC (on an AT), skid plate (pretty weak one), suspension (so-so) and better tires (so-so). If you don't like the suspension and the tires you can sell those for more than $500 if you take them off the truck right off the lot. So you are looking at a rear locker and ATRAC (poor man's front locker) for just about $1k. That's pretty hard to beat - especially since that locker is under drive train warranty.

So really it comes down to the option package you compare to. If you compare TRD OR to SR5 it is a no brainer I think. But if you don't want the $3K of SR5 options then definitely just start at a base 4x4 and mod from there.

 

[Clutch]

One of the important things to remember is the TRD comes essentially with all the SR5 options too. So if don't want all that interior fanciness and would prefer to go base then the TRD is making you buy a whole bunch of stuff not related to off-road performance and most definitely you can do better building your own.

On the other hand, if you were going to get an SR5 anyway then I think you'd be hard pressed to beat out the TRD OR. It only costs $1.5K more than SR5 and you get the locker, ATRAC, DAC (on an AT), skid plate (pretty weak one), suspension (so-so) and better tires (so-so). If you don't like the suspension and the tires you can sell those for more than $500 if you take them off the truck right off the lot. So you are looking at a rear locker and ATRAC (poor man's front locker) for just about $1k. That's pretty hard to beat - especially since that locker is under drive train warranty.

So really it comes down to the option package you compare to. If you compare TRD OR to SR5 it is a no brainer I think. But if you don't want the $3K of SR5 options then definitely just start at a base 4x4 and mod from there.

I would start with the SR base model, ....believe that is a $3800 difference give or take from the cheapest TRD model. The SR has more than enough for me, they even come with power windows and AC. That is only fluff I like. Probably wouldn't even do a locker, I have one in my current Taco...rarely even use it. Suspension and a decent set of all terrains is all I would do. Actually I would wait until the stock suspension was clapped out...then upgrade, and just do tires only. In the past stock Toyotas have gotten me a many a place.

Only reason I upgraded my current Taco's springs, because I kept on breaking leaf springs. Broke 3 of them, the stock, the repaired stock, and 5 leaf Deavers, OME's seem to be holding up now. It does sit a little high for my taste...but no one makes a stock ride height heavier duty spring replacement. I could crank down my front coil overs...then it would have too much rake for me. Or have custom springs made...too much hassle... so it rides 2.5 inches higher than I like...so oh well.

 

[aero]

Lastly, as to lift... On the Tacomas past about 2" of lift and you can start to have some problems. Your CV boots may start to wear because the increased axle angle results in rubbing on the boot. You may also start to get drive line vibration issues in the rear. You will probably have trouble getting good alignment with the factory UCAs as well. You can address all of these problems, but they are annoyances you can avoid by sticking to a max 2" lift. That said, from no lift to about 2" of lift you can run up to about 31.7" tires (265/75/16 or 235/85/16) but if you want to go to 33" you need about 3" of lift. So you see a lot of people lifting to 3" despite the possible problems because they feel the need to run 33". Of course once you get to 33" you might still have rubbing problems at full travel (so trim those fenders), you will probably need different UCAs to get good alignment and you'll have lost torque due to the bigger tires and so may want to regear your differentials. In summary at 2" lift you really do just change springs and shocks without much risk of issues. At 3" to fit those 33" tires on you potentially have a cascade of changes you *should* make to "do it right". So consider that jump in lift and tire size carefully.

Are there differential drops or anything that can help with the CV issue or does the whole suspension/drivetrain need to be upgraded?

 

[danmedeiros]

Thanks for all the input everyone! We are currently shopping for a 2015. Hoping to find a deal since a new model is coming out. Probably going to get the auto even though I love driving my manual transmission off road at work.

 

[DVexile]

Are there differential drops or anything that can help with the CV issue or does the whole suspension/drivetrain need to be upgraded?

Sorry, didn't see your post originally until the OP just bumped.

With the 2nd gens apparently the CVs themselves are just fine with the angles. The main issue is the boots - at high angles the ends of the belows rub and eventually rupture - and then that can take out the CV if you don't notice it quick enough. The solution is to stretch the boots to ride further up the shaft and there are some mods to do just that. But of course that now means tinkering with yet another thing.

A diff drop is pretty much useless on a 2nd gen and potentially just makes things worse. Where the drop goes is at the front and it doesn't actually lower the diff rather it just rotates it. So the CV angles are hardly improved but now you are changing the rear pinion angle and potentially screwing up that drive line.

Keep in mind the Tacoma rear driveline is already a bit twitchy - there are TSBs for rear driveline vibes and many owners have issues. So it is kind of a roll of the dice, some people actually have a modest rear lift reduce driveline vibrations since it was originally out of spec and the lift improved the angles. Others introduce vibrations with a lift and need to do a carrier bearing drop or put angled shims on the rear axle to get things smooth again. But again, in general, you see few complaints from people at about 2" of lift. At 3" of lift plenty of people have no problems at all, but it does seem the number of issues increases.

 

[Andy@AAV]

Doesnt the TRD get steeper gears? I know mine is 3.73 with the manual, not sure what the other models get.

 

[DVexile]

Doesnt the TRD get steeper gears? I know mine is 3.73 with the manual, not sure what the other models get.

No, same gear ratios. It is a different rear differential though (because of the E-locker apparently) with different diameter gears. But the ratios are all the same.

 

[Ghost65]

No, same gear ratios. It is a different rear differential though (because of the E-locker apparently) with different diameter gears. But the ratios are all the same.

Not sure on the Gen 2 Tacomas...but this is not the case on Gen 1 Tacomas.

Use this helpful guide if you are shopping Gen 1 Tacos with respect to gear ratios:

TW Gen 1 Tacoma Gear Ratio Chart

 

[p nut]

Not sure on the Gen 2 Tacomas...but this is not the case on Gen 1 Tacomas.

Use this helpful guide if you are shopping Gen 1 Tacos with respect to gear ratios:

TW Gen 1 Tacoma Gear Ratio Chart

Here are the specs straight from T:
http://www.toyota.com/tacoma/ebrochure/

This question gets asked every other month , or the TRD vs. Sport question ...

...my thoughts from previous threads on this topic...
If it was me I'd get a base model V6 , maybe a couple of years old , for around 23k . Then with the money you saved on TRD you put in an ARB, 2 inch lift , winch , and a little bigger tires . Build the truck the way you need it , not the way Toyota thinks you need it .

The problem is finding that 2 year old DC Taco 4wd for $23k. Let me know when you find some, and I'll buy 3!