Tripp-Lite inverter questions.

[pevrs114]

Gents,

I just scored what I believe is a professional grade inverter from my local rescue squad. It was installed on a rescue truck and removed with other radio and emergency equipment before the truck was sold. I came across it very cheaply ($20).

I want to check and see exactly what I got, whether it's decent, and what pitfalls/maintenance I should keep an eye out for. I've scoured the internet, and I can find wiring schematics and some specs, but no real other information about it.

Tripp-Lite PowerVerter PV-1000-FC

From what I've gathered, it puts out 1000W sustained, with 2000W peak/surge, and keeps a steady 60Hz frequency.

What exactly did I get? Is it halfway decent? I am planning to install it in a side toolbox of the pickup I'm building into an expo rig, to power a Dewalt battery charger, and have an extra plug for running other accessories that I might decide to keep in the truck.

Thanks for any info.




(as you can tell, I lurk a lot, but haven't posted much)

 

[broken1]

Looks like a decent unit. Not a $5,000 top of line but better than the one from walmart... It isn't pure sine wave, but it didn't cost like it was. It isn't super efficient, but again didn't cost it either. It is what it is and I would say you got a good deal on it. Continuous - 1000 watts, Overpower (up to 1 hour) - 1500 watts, Double-Boost wattage (up to 10 seconds) - 2000 watts is nothing to sneeze at.

The only caution I would add is that according to Triplite the no load draw is 2.2A at 12V DC. That is a shocker. A constant 2.2A draw could drain a battery quick. The data sheet references a 3.5mm port for connecting remote switch, I would look into that and implement it first thing, either that or integrate checking it to be sure it is off every time you exit the vehicle. That being said I think the tripp lite remote cable and switch uses a RJ11 or RJ45 usually, a pic or two of it would help.

The full load current draw is supposedly 100A but that is only ~1200 watts at 100% efficiency which we know it can't be and that double surge thing is going to need current to do it. Either way that is a lot and depending on location you will have to size the cable accordingly, also remember that is without starting current and such, figure 200As for safety and fuse it at same. For the back of the truck you are talking about 2/0 gauge wire possibly depending on length. Consider putting it closer to the battery and alternator and then running the 120AC lines to where you want them, you'll be able to use smaller lighter cheaper wire for the same wattage. For an explanation read here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ble-Solar-System-Advice?p=1874540#post1874540

Other than that keep it clean (vacuum/compressed air), dry, cool (well ventilated) etc... It will probably do great for your application

 

[pevrs114]

Thanks for the great info! I was planning on mounting an auxiliary battery on the outside of the passenger frame rail, directly under the toolbox that this unit will be mounted in. I'll also have a small Warn utility winch in the bed, and having the aux battery that close will shorten the cable length significantly for both of these high-draw items.

Excellent tip about the remote on/off switch, there's a jack on the front of the unit for the switch. I'll snap a pic and post it soon.

 

[228B]

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He's not exaggerating when he states, "2/0" if you're 10+ feet away from the battery source but since you're going to be within two feet of your planned aux battery... although! since broken1 thinks to fuse the setup for 200A, then you may want to think about a short 1/0 run. Dunno. Maybe #1 AWG might be more than sufficient for a 1000 watt inverter less than two feet from it's battery source. ****** do I know. I'm just a no0b spewing random thoughts...
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I jumped in here originally to say that modified-sine-wave inverters' owners guides (a Whistler XP2000i, for example) suggest monitoring any tool chargers; if the charger gets real warm then discontinue it's use with that inverter type. Who knows, but it's just a heads-up. I'm saving for a sine-wave inverter. I had an XP2000i and when properly fused, and connected with 1/0 cable, good crimps, etc, to it's 12V source, the "device will not power ON". F that noise. I received a return authorization from the particular retailer I used and sent it back for a refund.
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$20 is hard to augue with, though, so good luck to you! and here's hoping your tool chargers will work fine. Looking forward to pics of the completed installation.
.

 

[pevrs114]

I got some similar information regarding MSW inverters and tool battery chargers from another forum as well. Luckily Dewalt makes a 12V charger for their tools, so I'll just get that and install it in the same toolbox. I figured I'd use heavy gauge welding cable to connect the aux battery up to the engine compartment, and the same from the aux battery to the toolbox. I think your 2' estimate is pretty close; it may even wind up shorter than that.

Definitely couldn't argue with the price, or how beefy this thing is. I've bought a much smaller inverter before (400W) and it was still like $75, and doesn't seem nearly as well made as this one.

Thanks for the info fellas!

 

[pevrs114]

The remote jack doesn't look like RJ11 or RJ45 from what I looked up, those looked more like phone or cat5 type cables. This is more of a 2 prong blade connector.

 

[LeishaShannon]

looks like you could almost use 2 standard spade type connectors?

 

[broken1]

If that is truly just square wave I would be wary of plugging anything of great value into it, you never know how they will react. Legend has it that the magic smoke that lives inside all electronics and makes it work is scared of square waves and if you put a square wave into some of the more timid electronics the magic smoke will get so scared it craps itself and runs away. This can be observed by the puff of smoke and horrid smell that happens when you do this... ditto what 228B said about tool chargers, FYI incandescent lights don't care, the more fancy and complicated something is the more likely it is to care. Ironically laptop power supplies seem to be immune to this fear and the laptop itself could care less as it is fed by DC derived from the power supply.

I'd read up on Square vs modified sine vs sine.

As for that switch jack it seems... odd. I did a quick look to see if I could find one but came up dry. I bet you could open it up and wire something a little more common in there and just run the leads out the hole left behind. It is just a single contact short the pins together and it turns off, open them and it turns on.