trying to work out how to Jeep camp with my 5 year old and 8 month old

[ZONE ZERO]

so I’m slowly building my 18JKU.
I’m sure most of you jeep nuts want to know it’s a gobi sport, arb bull bar with a 12 k winch 255/85r17 tires on stock wheels with open difs. I’m holding out on suspension at the moment until I have a final weight. it will be getting 456 gears and Mopar winter wheels this summer.
im trying to avoid a rtt and I’m cautious of a trailer .
the interior is basically taken up by giant car seats and the back ends up full of extra cloths and baby stuff. I’m struggling to figure out how to do a multi night trip with out adding a rack to the top or pulling a trailer. I’m fine with ground tenting .
what are some of you guys doing with families?
do you find a trailer as a good option?
or is a rtt reasonable with a wife and 2 little kids?
we don’t do the camp ground thing and 99% of our camping is in New England .
also Im Not apposed to a trailer but it has to be off road capable and reasonably small

 

[rnArmy]

Ok. I get it - you need more room.

And you want easy access to your gear; not having to climb up and unstrap stuff from your roof every time you need something.

You also don't want a RTT with those little kids. You don't want them falling out, getting them in-and-out of a RTT would be a major pain, and you need room for them to play/move around (especially if it is raining and you're stuck inside the tent). You need a ground tent probably bigger than you think you do. You need room inside the tent for a small kid's potty. In the tent, I recommend cots for the adults so you can store luggage and such under the cots.

You also need a small trailer.

Check out my build thread:

Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread | Jeep Enthusiast Forums (jeepforum.com)

The above is a long thread, but if you can read through the whole thing, you'll have all the info you need to build a very capable off-road trailer based off a HF-type trailer frame. For your situation, if you took a HF-type 4'x8' trailer frame, shortened it to 4'x6' and built from there, that would meet your needs well. Tubs can be built out of lumber, plywood, fiberglass, aluminum diamond plate (which is what I did), or steel (heavy in my opinion). Suspension is a simple leaf spring set-up with a solid axle.





Mine is based off a small Harbor Freight type 4' trailer frame. It is definitely "Off-road capable and reasonably small". It is quite modified (frame reinforced, suspension & axle swapped out, tongue extended, etc.) but these modifications are easy to do. And it can be built for way cheaper than buying one would cost. Google "small overlanding utility trailer" or variations of that to see what all it out there. They can get expensive quickly.

The old WWII military trailers had a tub that measured essentially 40" x 72" (measured at the base of the tub). Mine pictured above is 40" x 50". It is tall enough that I can stack two 8-gallon Rubber Maid Action Packers on top of each other, and still have a little bit of room on top when the lid closes. And that's the secret - make it tall(er) and with a lid. It is all about cubic feet (length x width x height) for storage. Mine is about 28" tall.





I overland with a Jeep TJ (if you haven't figured that out by now). Sometimes there are two of us (two big grown men). There's just not that much room for gear inside a TJ even with the rear seat removed. I have a roof rack on my TJ, but putting lot of weight on the roof can make it top heavy, Mine's pretty light - all I've got up there are four X-Bulls, a 32" light bar, a shovel, winch extension cable... and that's about it. When carrying a kayak up there, I've got the X-bulls on the lid of the trailer. The trailer has been the ticket for me. It is amazing how much stuff you can put in/on a little trailer. Mine has literally tens of thousands of miles on it, much of it off-road. It has made trips into Canda, crisscrossed the country a couple of times, etc. It has and can take a beating. It follows behind the Jeep like a puppy dog. I've also got electric brakes on the trailer and that is helpful (especially for safety reasons). My Jeep's tires are 285/75/16" (33" tall), and the trailer's tires are 235/75/15" (28" tall). The axle is under the springs, and the trailer sits level when connected to the TJ or Willys. The trailer has a spare tire mounted on the back panel of the trailer tub (using a Jeep TJ factory spare tire mount).

And before I put the tent on the top of the trailer, the roof rack you see on the TJ was originally bought and installed on the lid of the trailer for more carrying capability with the trailer (especially before I put the hardtop on the Jeep). A basket on the lid of the trailer comes in handy.





Check this out: (217) TJ and trailer - YouTube

I built mine (someone else built the tub, which is really just a big box with a lid). Minimal welding involved (which I farmed out) - mostly it is bolt together. If you can cut angle iron and drill holes (needed for doing the reinforcing of the HF-type trailer frame) you can do this too. I'm a nurse - not a mechanic. If I can do it, you can do it. And what is nice about a small trailer like this is you can keep it 90% packed all the time when not in use, so you can do a quick getaway on short notice if you want.

Plenty of places sell small trailers capable for off-road travel. Main thing is you don't want one wider than the tow vehicle (comparing outside side-to-side tire distance). You can go wider than mine (or the WWII standard trailer) and still be ok. My trailer narrower than my TJ (measured from between the outside of the tires). Behind my flatty the width is essentially the same. Your JKU is wider than my TJ.



This summer I plan on running the Idaho Back Country Discovery Route. I'm the organizer. And of course, I'll be taking the trailer. It'll be about a three-week 4000-mile trip all totaled. Much of it will be off road.

US Northwest - Idaho BDR (and then some!) | OVERLAND BOUND COMMUNITY

In case you're wondering, that's a Cabela's double sized tent-cot on the lid of the trailer. It functions as my little RTT, and weighs about 50lbs total. I also carry a Browning 8'x10' dome tent (and a cot) in the trailer for if I'm going to be camped in one place for a bit. These next two pictures also show a little better some of the stuff I've got attached to the outside of the trailer (means more room inside the trailer for stuff). I don't have an electric fridge, so I like having ready access to the cooler when adding ice or draining water. Or when I'm cooking on the Jeep's tailgate. Or when I'm stopped and want a quick cold drink out of the cooler.





And yes, I can still access the contents of the trailer even with the tent opened-up.



Let me know how I can help you if you want to go this route.

The Pros and Cons of Overlanding With Trailers » Expedition Overland (xoverland.com)

Here's another trailer thread on this expedition portal you might find interesting:

Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews? | Expedition Portal

Want to build a WWII type trailer? This'll get you started with a frame/tub/fenders. Finishing it out (suspension, axle, wheels/tires, etc.) would actually be pretty simple, and you could get the exact axle for the trailer that fits your desired wheels & tires for the trailer.

Results for trailers (kaiserwillys.com)

Got a lot of money to spend:

Is an Off-Road Trailer Really Practical for your Overland Adventures? - Bing video (very nice but very expensive trailer, but nice info on the video)

GoFSR Overlander Trailer – Off Road Tents

Rugged 'N Ready 60" High Country Trailer – TO Extreme Off Road (to-extreme.com)

Really, all you need is a large box for storage on a simple frame with leaf springs and a solid axle. After looking at options out there (a few linked above), a HF-frame based trailer starts looking really good.

 

[84-4runner]

Buy a Tacoma or get a small trailer. Built or buy Dinoot trailer are a cheap option if you can use a drill. If you weld
its even better. Best thing I learned in college other than the work related stuff.
Two examples of what I have done. and a link to cheap alternates to building or buying a high dollar trailer.

How-to build a Multi-Purpose Utility Trailer Camper - Tventuring Adventure Trailer Forum

 

[ZONE ZERO]

Buy a Tacoma or get a small trailer. Built or buy Dinoot trailer are a cheap option if you can use a drill. If you weld
its even better. Best thing I learned in college other than the work related stuff.
Two examples of what I have done. and a link to cheap alternates to building or buying a high dollar trailer.

How-to build a Multi-Purpose Utility Trailer Camper - Tventuring Adventure Trailer Forum

I wouldn’t take another tacoma or 4 runner if it was given to me for free. they were with out question the most maintenance expensive vehicles I’ve ever owned and I’ve had 2 Land Rover . But I get your point a small truck would solve some of the problems.

 

[ZONE ZERO]

Ok. I get it - you need more room.

And you want easy access to your gear; not having to climb up and unstrap stuff from your roof every time you need something.

You also don't want a RTT with those little kids. You don't want them falling out, getting them in-and-out of a RTT would be a major pain, and you need room for them to play/move around (especially if it is raining and you're stuck inside the tent). You need a ground tent probably bigger than you think you do. You need room inside the tent for a small kid's potty. In the tent, I recommend cots for the adults so you can store luggage and such under the cots.

You also need a small trailer.

Check out my build thread:

Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread | Jeep Enthusiast Forums (jeepforum.com)

The above is a long thread, but if you can read through the whole thing, you'll have all the info you need to build a very capable off-road trailer based off a HF-type trailer frame. For your situation, if you took a HF-type 4'x8' trailer frame, shortened it to 4'x6' and built from there, that would meet your needs well. Tubs can be built out of lumber, plywood, fiberglass, aluminum diamond plate (which is what I did), or steel (heavy in my opinion). Suspension is a simple leaf spring set-up with a solid axle.

View attachment 718082

View attachment 718099

Mine is based off a small Harbor Freight type 4' trailer frame. It is definitely "Off-road capable and reasonably small". It is quite modified (frame reinforced, suspension & axle swapped out, tongue extended, etc.) but these modifications are easy to do. And it can be built for way cheaper than buying one would cost. Google "small overlanding utility trailer" or variations of that to see what all it out there. They can get expensive quickly.

The old WWII military trailers had a tub that measured essentially 40" x 72" (measured at the base of the tub). Mine pictured above is 40" x 50". It is tall enough that I can stack two 8-gallon Rubber Maid Action Packers on top of each other, and still have a little bit of room on top when the lid closes. And that's the secret - make it tall(er) and with a lid. It is all about cubic feet (length x width x height) for storage. Mine is about 28" tall.

View attachment 718117

View attachment 718086

I overland with a Jeep TJ (if you haven't figured that out by now). Sometimes there are two of us (two big grown men). There's just not that much room for gear inside a TJ even with the rear seat removed. I have a roof rack on my TJ, but putting lot of weight on the roof can make it top heavy, Mine's pretty light - all I've got up there are four X-Bulls, a 32" light bar, a shovel, winch extension cable... and that's about it. When carrying a kayak up there, I've got the X-bulls on the lid of the trailer. The trailer has been the ticket for me. It is amazing how much stuff you can put in/on a little trailer. Mine has literally tens of thousands of miles on it, much of it off-road. It has made trips into Canda, crisscrossed the country a couple of times, etc. It has and can take a beating. It follows behind the Jeep like a puppy dog. I've also got electric brakes on the trailer and that is helpful (especially for safety reasons). My Jeep's tires are 285/75/16" (33" tall), and the trailer's tires are 235/75/15" (28" tall). The axle is under the springs, and the trailer sits level when connected to the TJ or Willys. The trailer has a spare tire mounted on the back panel of the trailer tub (using a Jeep TJ factory spare tire mount).

And before I put the tent on the top of the trailer, the roof rack you see on the TJ was originally bought and installed on the lid of the trailer for more carrying capability with the trailer (especially before I put the hardtop on the Jeep). A basket on the lid of the trailer comes in handy.

View attachment 718165

View attachment 718089

Check this out: (217) TJ and trailer - YouTube

I built mine (someone else built the tub, which is really just a big box with a lid). Minimal welding involved (which I farmed out) - mostly it is bolt together. If you can cut angle iron and drill holes (needed for doing the reinforcing of the HF-type trailer frame) you can do this too. I'm a nurse - not a mechanic. If I can do it, you can do it. And what is nice about a small trailer like this is you can keep it 90% packed all the time when not in use, so you can do a quick getaway on short notice if you want.

Plenty of places sell small trailers capable for off-road travel. Main thing is you don't want one wider than the tow vehicle (comparing outside side-to-side tire distance). You can go wider than mine (or the WWII standard trailer) and still be ok. My trailer narrower than my TJ (measured from between the outside of the tires). Behind my flatty the width is essentially the same. Your JKU is wider than my TJ.

View attachment 718109

This summer I plan on running the Idaho Back Country Discovery Route. I'm the organizer. And of course, I'll be taking the trailer. It'll be about a three-week 4000-mile trip all totaled. Much of it will be off road.

US Northwest - Idaho BDR (and then some!) | OVERLAND BOUND COMMUNITY

In case you're wondering, that's a Cabela's double sized tent-cot on the lid of the trailer. It functions as my little RTT, and weighs about 50lbs total. I also carry a Browning 8'x10' dome tent (and a cot) in the trailer for if I'm going to be camped in one place for a bit. These next two pictures also show a little better some of the stuff I've got attached to the outside of the trailer (means more room inside the trailer for stuff). I don't have an electric fridge, so I like having ready access to the cooler when adding ice or draining water. Or when I'm cooking on the Jeep's tailgate. Or when I'm stopped and want a quick cold drink out of the cooler.

View attachment 718097

View attachment 718180

And yes, I can still access the contents of the trailer even with the tent opened-up.

View attachment 718098

Let me know how I can help you if you want to go this route.

The Pros and Cons of Overlanding With Trailers » Expedition Overland (xoverland.com)

Here's another trailer thread on this expedition portal you might find interesting:

Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews? | Expedition Portal

Want to build a WWII type trailer? This'll get you started with a frame/tub/fenders. Finishing it out (suspension, axle, wheels/tires, etc.) would actually be pretty simple, and you could get the exact axle for the trailer that fits your desired wheels & tires for the trailer.

Results for trailers (kaiserwillys.com)

Got a lot of money to spend:

Is an Off-Road Trailer Really Practical for your Overland Adventures? - Bing video (very nice but very expensive trailer, but nice info on the video)

GoFSR Overlander Trailer – Off Road Tents

Rugged 'N Ready 60" High Country Trailer – TO Extreme Off Road (to-extreme.com)

Really, all you need is a large box for storage on a simple frame with leaf springs and a solid axle. After looking at options out there (a few linked above), a HF-frame based trailer starts looking really good.

I like this idea, I looked into “off-road capable “ teardrop campers and I’m not dropping 12 to 30k to drag one of those through the woods.

but I hadn't considered the HF trailer frame as a starting point , I’m a competent welder, electrician and fabricator. I’ve build a lot of trucks, jeeps, rovers, and campers for customers and friends. I considered one of the pop top conversions but I’ve never seen one in persons and it would still mean getting up inside the top of the Jeep I don’t see that working with 4 of us.
what would you think it cost all in for you to do this build? I’d probably factor in an awning with a room to get out of the bugs And rain. I could do a plastic roof top box to carry extra gear and that would not be a permanent roof top mod.

 

[NatersXJ6]

I’ve been camping with my kids (3 of them now) out of a JKUR for 8 years. I guess I would ask how much stuff you think you “need”? Having a cargo shelf in the back to reduce stacking stuff definitely helped set up and teardown, and I’ve been through a few different iterations of RTT, Trailer, and RTT on trailer, but ultimately, they were all great trips.

A roof rack or Yakima type box for light stuff really helps.

On edit… some more thoughts:

Kids mean changing your lifestyle. There is nothing wrong with a few years in campgrounds… still camping… and stuff like a table, water, toilet are covered for you.

Look for the smallest car seats you can find. By 5, my kids are all in the little boosters and out of the fighter jet seats.

Momma historically stays home. She isn’t interested and isn’t hauling the littles to camp… or she meets us there in her own car. Two cars makes a world of difference in how much stuff you can haul, and gives the ability to bail if baby isn’t happy.

 

[rnArmy]

I like this idea, I looked into “off-road capable “ teardrop campers and I’m not dropping 12 to 30k to drag one of those through the woods.

but I hadn't considered the HF trailer frame as a starting point , I’m a competent welder, electrician and fabricator. I’ve build a lot of trucks, jeeps, rovers, and campers for customers and friends. I considered one of the pop top conversions but I’ve never seen one in persons and it would still mean getting up inside the top of the Jeep I don’t see that working with 4 of us.
what would you think it cost all in for you to do this build? I’d probably factor in an awning with a room to get out of the bugs And rain. I could do a plastic roof top box to carry extra gear and that would not be a permanent roof top mod.

I'm a nurse (and a gearhead). I don't build except for my own (and my kids) projects and enjoyment. The beauty of doing it yourself is you provide the labor - so no labor costs. But I am a great resource person for lil' adventure trailers to help folks build their own lil' trailers. If you can cut metal and drill holes and do basic wiring, you can build one of these.

This is off the top of my head. I'm sure prices have gone up, as mine was built and upgraded over time. Links are for rough price ranges and visual descriptions. These are not necessarily the cheapest prices, but it will give us an idea. E-trailer is one of my go-to places I check first for trailer related stuff, but not my only source.

HF 4'x8' trailer - $550.00 1720 lb. Capacity 48 in. x 96 in. Super Duty Folding Trailer (harborfreight.com)

They sometimes have them on sale. The nice thing about starting with a HF frame is it comes with a bill of sale - makes getting a title and tag so much easier. Sell the axle and tires to recoup some of the cost. 8' long is too long; cut it down to 5' or 6' long (mine is 4' long). With a little reinforcing, the C-Channel HF uses is more than adequate. And it helps keep the weight down.

Springs and mounting hardware - $42.00 and $22.00 (GET RID OF THE WHOLE SLIPPER SPRING SET-UP THAT COMES FROM THE FACTORY - IT IS TOO STIFF):

Single-Axle Trailer Hanger Kit for Double-Eye Springs - 3-1/4" Front, 7/8" Rear Redline Trailer Leaf Spring Suspension APS5

Welcome to Stengel Bros. Inc. - Steering| Suspension| Air Ride Specialists (you need two for the rear shackle mounts - I like these better than what comes in the package linked above).

Springs can range from $35 to $60. I'd recommend something like the US-1094 springs for your application - $58.00 each. I believe these are what I'm currently running on my trailer.

US-1094 Type EE (Eye/Eye) Utility and Boat Trailer Spring 1.75 inch Width; 27.75 inch Overall Length; 975 lb rating per spring (stengelbros.net)

But what you're looking for is a 1.75" wide spring with an eye on each end (NOT A SLIPPER TYPE SPRING), and the longer the better. Don't be tempted to get really stiff springs (rookie mistake) - you want the springs to flex:

Double Eye Trailer Leaf Springs (stengelbros.net)

These 1.75" wide springs are the same width as the old Willys Jeep springs. Helps if you're wanting to mount shocks as the Willys spring plates include the lower shock mounts. Just sayin....

You'll want at least a 3500lb straight axle with electric brakes. Dexter is a well-known brand. In the HF trailer build thread there is a post on how to measure how wide ("hubface to hubface") your axle should be based on your tire and rim choice. But figure about $170 for the axle (order from a local place - shipping will kill you - and if you get the axle and all the brake stuff local you might get a good deal on the whole set):

DEXTER 60 in. Round Tube Straight Trailer Axle (3500 lb.) #4766635 (easternmarine.com)

You'll have to ask yourself if you want a perfectly straight axle, or one with a little bit of camber in it. If you want one with a little bit of camber in it, pay particular attention to how you want the axle mounted in relation to the springs - under or over? It comes into play with mounting the spring perches. My axle is mounted under the springs to get more height for the trailer. My tires were wearing funny, so this time around I got an axle with a camber. Either that or I had bent my axle. We'll see how these new trailer tires wear this summer.

Brake assemblies - $55.00 each (you need a left and right side):

Dexter 10 in. x 2-1/4 in. Electric Brake Assy. - Left Hand / 3.5k #K23-026-00 (easternmarine.com)

Brake drum/hub - $80.00 each (need two plus a spare [so really you need three]):

Easy Grease Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for 3.5K Axles - 10" - 5 on 4-1/2 - Pre-Greased etrailer Trailer Hubs and Drums AKHD-545-35-EZ-K

Wheels and tires - wide range price-wise. Unless you're planning on using your Jeep's spare as the size of your trailer's tires (not recommended actually), you'll need three tires and rims. Off the top of my head, figure $40 each for some black spoke rims ($120 total) and $150 each for some 28" - 31"-ish tires ($450 total). So that's around $600 (a little on the high side, but whatever). Get an LT rated tire for your trailer tires, not just a P-Metric tire. Lots of good deals on lightly used tires and rims out there if you shop around. Make sure your rims have a large enough center hole to go over the trailer's hub (its bigger than you would think).

Tub. I really like my diamond plate tub built by Diamond Deluxe. It has a locking lid to keep what's inside dry and safe. If you're going with a 48 x 72" tub, I haven't talked with Diamond Deluxe in a while, but off the top of my head, I'm guessing... $1200 for a tub like mine (?) except for a base measurement of 48 x 72". I went with the military style tub because I was active-duty Army, and it just looks right behind a Jeep. It did add a bit to the build complexity and cost, but I also think it added a little bit of structural integrity to the box.

As someone else mentioned earlier, Dinoot is also a great place to check on tub options.

Jeep Trailer and No Weld Trailer Rack System by Dinoot

And don't forget the fenders. Mine are very small aluminum ones and just barely cover the tread itself on the tires. Which is what I want - I want tires to hit first, not the fenders.

The front cooler tray was really just one of those trailer hitch trays that I narrowed and bolted to the front of the trailer. Something like this for $121.00:

CURT 18110 48 x 20-Inch Tray Hitch Cargo Carrier, 300 lbs Capacity, 1-1/4, 2-In Adapter Shank - Walmart.com

Trailer wiring kit - $50.00:

Hopkins 7-Way Molded Trailer Wire Connector - 11' Long Hopkins Trailer Wiring HM20048 (etrailer.com)

Wiring junction box - $10.00:

Trailer Wiring Junction Box - 7 Color Coded Terminals - ABS Buyers Products Accessories and Parts 3375601101 (etrailer.com)

The HF trailer comes with lights. I upgraded my taillights to LED lights with built-in back-up lights - gott'm at TSC, but I've seen them at Walmart. And moved them up on the tub to protect them from the tires flinging rocks at them (I learned the hard way).

These might be them: Blazer International LED Submersible Trailer Light Kit with Reverse Light, Red - Walmart.com

So we're at about $2700.00 right here. Shop wisely and it could be lower. The tub could be made a lot cheaper out of lumber for the time being if cost was an issue.

Now add a couple hundred dollars for tub reinforcement channel (which I get at Home Depot) if going with the aluminum diamond plate, shocks and mounts and such if you want them (can't hurt, might help), 2" receiver(s), and lots of misc. etc's. Reinforcement angle iron, lots of extra nuts-and-bolts, and misc. stuff. It will probably push you close to around $3000.00 or just a little bit over.

And you'll have a very nice overlanding trailer that'll take abuse, and come in way under what trailer manufacturers want.

Before you spend a dollar, fully read the trailer build thread I linked earlier. It will take a while - it is a long read. But when you get to the end it will have told you everything you need to know, and includes part numbers, pictures, descriptions, and links. It will be time well spent.

 

[rnArmy]

Here's a picture of my buddy by the trailer the first time we took it on a trip. I'd just come back from Iraq, and we ran the Highway 101 loop around the Olympic (WA) Peninsula. Notice the factory 12" rims and tires, wooden stake tub sides, drop hitch, factory axle and stiff slipper springs, and gear wrapped in a tarp. And a spare tire (always have a spare tire!). We had a ball on that trip.

The trailer has evolved over the years to its current state. But you've gotta start somewhere. Mine was built in stages over years based on available time and funds, and lessons learned. Like I learned I preferred the cooler outside the tub. And taller tires would be nice (keep the bearings cooler). And tarps leak, and it was a PIA always having to wrap/unwrap to get to our gear. Doable, but still not as convenient as a box with a lid would be.

So don't be afraid to start simple and go from there. The object of the game is to go out overlanding and camping and have adventures! It isn't about having the coolest gear (or coolest trailer). Some folks might have thought we looked silly pulling this little trailer behind the Jeep - we didn't care - we were too busy having a good time. The trailer allowed us to carry the additional stuff to make our trip comfortable. Sometimes it doesn't take that much extra stuff.



Here it is on one of our trips up to Alaska (me in the picture this time). Actually, this picture was taken in Atlin, Canada. New wider axle, taller tires (205/75/15"), ability to carry extra gasoline, but still running the overly stiff slipper springs. It is getting there. We had a great trip.



Here we are up in Canada a few years later running the Dempster Highway. This time we're in my buddy's Jeep ZJ. Trailer's continuing to evolve. 235x75x15" tires. Got the aluminum tub, finally got the cooler outside the tub, got a cargo rack on the trailer's lid... you get the idea.



Does the trailer ever get dirty? Yup. It gets used. This was taken on one of the ferries on the Dempster Highway.



Is it finished? I don't know how many times I thought I was done - that there was nothing left to do. I'm always going to be tweaking it, but now they're not so major a tweak. Here's a picture with the new tires and how they stick out a little bit. Tires bounce, metal bends. I'd rather the tires bounce of something than the fenders take the hit. So far I haven't been ticketed. I do have mudflaps on the trailer.



Have I ever broken anything on the trailer? Once I snapped a leaf spring in two on the WABDR (which I kinda blame me for - long story). We were beating on the trailer on that trip. I've had the tires kick up rocks and punch holes in the back of the taillights (before I mounted them on the back tub up high) but the lights still worked. In the picture below you can see the new lights I mounted up high with the built-in reverse lights.

Last summer I had an axle bearing go bad so I had to replace the whole hub in a parking lot. It took out the hub too (the brake drum is the hub), but fortunately I always carry a fully loaded and lubed hub assembly, so it didn't slow me down too much. Swapped it out and was on my way. More of a PIA than anything as I was in the south in the summer. Hot outside!

Never had a flat, and no electrical issues. The OP wanted something that would be off-road worthy... this sort of trailer will fit the bill.



But a block of wood and some ratchet straps and I was able to drive it a couple hundred miles home.

 

[84-4runner]

any kind of small utility trailer will work. 5x8 gives too much room. But the Dinoot website shows multiple ways
to customize a utility trailer with RTTs, racks for kayaks boats anything your heart desires. Since you weld it would
be a breeze and cheap. Here in AZ everyone sells utility trailers cheap. Lots of good ideas on their website.
A picture from last week where my fried and I took our jeeps out to BFE Arizona. Dinoot also has plans for making
what they call an " Explorer Box trailer" which can have a RTT on top. But the utility trailer is usable when you buy it
and can be modified as you go along.

 

[nwoods]

I struggled with this as well. I had an LJ with two tall but young kids (around 5 and 8), and two tall parents (6'-7 and 6'-2"), plus a 30 lbs dog. I used to get real creative in stowing gear in the Jeep. For example all the long rolled up things (camp chairs, sleeping pads, camp table, etc..) I would stuff lengthwise above the rear fenders, inside the soft top, and just lash them into place with bungees. Then I would "build" a wall of bungees behind the rear seat to hold all the high piled gear from spilling over into the seat, and thus created a bit of a cave for the kids to ride in. In the back, I built a raised floor, about 4" above the bottom of the tub. That's where all my heavy stuff like tool rolls and spare axles went. The raised sub floor was plywood with tie downs, and anything stowed in the back was secured with ratchet straps to the tiedowns. I then installed a rack on the back of the jeep (supported by the steel bumper), all mfr'd by Hansen, that was used to hold stuff I didn't want inside, or could get dusty/wet/etc... All in all, it was a crapload of stuff and bogged down the Jeep and made the kids uncomfortable, but it worked.

Here was a typical load out:

Not a great shot, but it gives the general idea:

I eventually got a small custom built Offroad trailer. It was just a tub, but it held all our camping gear nice and dry and was awesome.

There was one particular trip, on the Mojave Trail, where my Jeep broke a rear spring, and it was SO NICE to be able to take all our weight (in the trailer) and just attach it to a buddy's rig and finish the trail in style:

It wasn't always easy, but I wouldn't trade those memories for the world:

 

[billiebob]

This forum is over the top for a new born, 5 year old and parents.

We did all this in a Honda Accord Wagon plus 2 tents...... 40 years ago..... the kids now have and still use those tents.

Budget was a HUGE factor and with a Honda Wagon..... payload was another factor. We never packed more than we needed. Packing for every trip was focused on the activities. One trip to Abbott Pass Hut with an overnighter at Elizabeth Parker Hut was likely our lightest trip since we had to carry everything in back packs.....

Focus on eliminating shitt..... not packing more.



ps.... there are some fabulous rigs in this thread so far..... today I swear by a trailer

 

[pith helmet]

I love the trailer idea more and more. The only thing I can add as a parent whose child has moved out on her own in the last couple of years; don’t let planning get in your way. They will be gone tomorrow.

Kids mean changing your lifestyle. There is nothing wrong with a few years in campgrounds… still camping… and stuff like a table, water, toilet are covered for you.

^^^This is super advice.

 

[nwoods]

1) Kids mean changing your lifestyle. There is nothing wrong with a few years in campgrounds… still camping… and stuff like a table, water, toilet are covered for you.

2) Look for the smallest car seats you can find. By 5, my kids are all in the little boosters and out of the fighter jet seats.

3) Momma historically stays home.

Wow, three really significant comments here:
1. So true. Kids really don't care where you go. They can get equally dirty just about anywhere, and will thoroughly enjoy doing so. That should be the focus. Plus, the more stuff the campground provides, the less stuff you need to pack!

2. In California kids have to be 6 years old AND 60 lbs in weight before they can get out of boosters and other kid traps, I mean seats. My kids barely hit 60 lbs by age 9, so we didn't pay a lot of attention to arbitrary and capricious laws like that. Getting out of the car seat does save TONS of room.

3. This is really interesting. A Lot of my camping gear is designed and intended for the sole purpose of keeping Mom warm, dry, comfortable and happy, because if any one of those factors misses the mark, the entire family suffers. When Momma is happy, everyone is happy. Packing for just my kids is totally different. It cuts things down by half, easy. And my wife is far from demanding, but I work really hard to make sure things go smooth. Camping at establishing campsites goes a long way towards accomplishing that goal. Some of my best trips involve a combination of roughing it, verses developed sites, every other day as we traverse the area we are visiting, with a hotel stay somewhere mixed in for showers and a Resturant meal.

 

[shays4me]

Here's what I did to my JKU. It sleeps four, but I've got an Ursa Minor so I'm kinda cheating. It probably won't work for you but it will maybe give you an idea or two!

 

[NatersXJ6]

Wow, three really significant comments here:
1. So true. Kids really don't care where you go.

2. In California kids have to be 6 years old AND 60 lbs in weight before they can get out of boosters and other kid traps, I mean seats. My kids barely hit 60 lbs by age 9, so we didn't pay a lot of attention to arbitrary and capricious laws like that. Getting out of the car seat does save TONS of room.

3. This is really interesting. A Lot of my camping gear is designed and intended for the sole purpose of keeping Mom warm, dry, comfortable and happy, because if any one of those factors misses the mark, the entire family suffers. When Momma is happy, everyone is happy. Packing for just my kids is totally different. It cuts things down by half, easy.

Completely agreed! And a few additions:

1). Most kids don’t really appreciate the sweeping scenery, the technical prowess of driving a tough trail, or the gear-geeky ness of east set up and collapse of camp. They do love spending a day throwing rocks at an angry river, looking at bugs under a log, or poking at things in a fire. None of these things require exotic 4x4 destinations. My spring break trip was setting up my trailer and RTT in a state park campground last week and spending 3 nights around a fire with old friends, their kids, and their guitars. We could have left behind everything but marshmallows and my kids would have been happy.

2) I’ve usually paid more attention to the labels on the seats than the vagaries of politics. My 4 and 7 year olds are both currently in boosters only. The $50 Graco ones fit really nicely in JKU and as soon as you can, throw out the back and only use the bottom. Life gets easier if you keep updating and shrinking your car seats as you go. Also, don’t forget that littles don’t need foot wells… there is a lot of space under their feet for the first 6-8 years.

3). I often wish that my wife would camp with us, but I know she needs a break too. When we leave for a long weekend, she gets to decompress, order sushi, watch tv in silence, only have to do her own hair, and generally be happy. When she takes them to Disney… I get the same break!

As an additional thought, check out the “no refrigeration needed” thread in the camp chef section. I love to cook, so 2/3 of my JK is consumed by fridge and chuck box, but the reality is that I could be happy and have happy kids if I only brought granola bars, pop tarts, marshmallows, spam and rice-a-roni. Very small space, no cooler, no fridge. I also leave the beer and wine behind when traveling with only my kids… it saves a lot of space and makes sure I’m sharper in case of emergencies.

The last piece of advice I can generate:

The best thing to take camping with kids is: MORE KIDS! Find another family with similar likes and join together camping. Then you can share the major gear / cooking stuff / awnings / etc… and you don’t have to haul or set it all up by yourself.

Remember, you’re out there for fun! It’s supposed to be fun!