Tundra Maintenance that's not obvious?

[bennysmall]

Hey all,
This week I'm doing routine maintenance on my '02 Tundra such as an Oil change, patching a couple exhaust leaks, air filter, and what else? Can't recall... Anyways, after reading my manual I found some suggested procedures that surprised me such as re-torquing the prop. shaft (drive shaft) bolts (I know what this is after reading around).
After reading about re-torquing those bolts I found out I should be checking them, as well as other chassis bolts, and re-greasing the U-joints every 5,ooo miles.
Do you all do this? Are there any other bits of routine maintenance like this that I should be doing around every 5,ooo miles that might not be obvious? Or maybe it is obvious to you, but not to me! In this case, could you all help me out a little and list your DIY maintenance schedules?
I.e. I personally do the oil, oil filter, check air filter, and visually inspect spark plugs, misc. fluid levels, control arms, etc. every 5,ooo miles.
What do you do and on how regular of a basis? Especially that weird stuff. Let's hear it.
THANKS!

 

[seanpistol]

Err... make sure the 4 bolts under the steering knuckle are torqued to 60 ft lbs with lots of red locktite. Check your lower ball joints for wear. Replace if questionable. Spark plugs every 30k. Tranny flush every 60k. Check back of drums for leaking axle seals. Timing belt every 90k. Otherwise just keep everything topped off for the most part.

 

[FJR Colorado]

Only use 100% Toyota red coolant and don't let it get adulterated with other coolants (like at a Jiffy Lube).

Check shocks. Old Bilsteins can break if you have a TRD model.

Check fog lights. They are useful but can burn out.

This is true of all vehicles... Don't let snow pile up and create pools of water they lie up there melting and re-freezing.

If your rear diff is LSD, that requires special fluid.

I'll think of more...

 

[seanpistol]

^ These trucks are prone to rust. In the winter time, I'm washing my undercarriage at least once a week. It's tedious, but pretty necessary.

 

[Arclight]

Jack up the truck and inspect the brakes. Check for leaking cylinders or calipers and remove the brake dust from the rear drums. The best way to get them off is two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes. Combine this with some whacks from a brass hammer back and forth to get the dust and corrosion loose.

If you do the front brakes, carefully check the calipers for hot spots and get them turned as needed. People often tow heavy things with these trucks, and rotors that have been overheated will be very apparent when you get new pads. This is a good time to repack the hubs anyway.

One of the dangers of the old Toyotas is that they are overengineered and seem to happily keep going even with major neglect and damage. You might find out that something important has been surviving on one bolt or that a near-busted ball joint has been on there for the last 60K.

Arclight

 

[TittySprinkles]

Like any Toyota truck with higher mileage, keep an eye on the 4 bolts that secure the transmission mount to the crossmember. Two were finger tight 6 months after I did my 4WD conversion; use blue Loctite here, since they just thread into a thin piece of steel.

Also check your control arm bushings. Common wear item; the rubber had completely separated from the outer metal sleeve on all 4 LCA bushings. Makes for wallowy handling that you won't notice as it comes on gradually, but will cause excessive dynamic toe and wear your tires faster. Reassemble with a quality silicone grease that contains PTFE. Don't use petroleum or synthetic greases, they don't last.