spressomon
Expedition Leader
Thanks for your update! At close to $7k to get same for my '99 100-Series ... it just didn't pencil. But excited to see you are pushing forward with the FF Diamond! Did you go D60 outers?
Tunook Build Has New Life
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
Was that 7K for a FF 100 series axle? Who did you get the quote from to build it? I think when it is all said and done I will have around $5k into getting this axle under the camper. I am including into that the cost of having to get new rims to accommodate the FF hub. I am also not sure yet if I will have to alter the rear drive shaft. There maybe some additional costs coming.
I went with FF 80 series landcruiser outers and a 9.5" 80 series elocker diff. I am trying to keep it as much Toyota as possible so if I run into issues on the road I only need to go to one dealership to find parts or get it serviced. The only parts of the rear axle that will not be stock toyota is the housing and nitro axles. The axles are cromoly and I don't expect I would ever break one the way I use the camper.
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thebrassnuckles
Explorer
Any more recent pics? I love this thing. I have an 81 chinook I am about to tear into.
Are you looking for recent pictures of the axle progress or something else? If you want to see something specific to help you with your build just send me a message with your email and I try to send you what your looking for. If you have a build thread send it to me or post it I would like to watch it. Cool stuff.
I have the axle under the Tunook now but still have a few things to figure out. I am trying to determine the best way to shorten the ebrake cable. I have a couple options I just want to make sure the new cable stop holds.
I have also found that the pinion flang bolt pattern on the 80 series diff. is different than the Tundra flang. I did have an extra 80 series drive shaft that I pulled the slip Yoke off of and it fits the Tundra drive shaft. The 80 series slip yoke is about 1/2 shorter than the Tundra yoke. I am trying to determine if that 1/2 inch is an issue or not. In the picture below the springs are almost at full drop and the yoke still extends about an inch inside the shaft. After I get it off the jack stands I will be able to see where it rides with the springs compressed. Anyone have any experience with with proper drive shaft length? How much overlap is needed? I understand the axle will travel back some when compressed as rear shackles move rearward but how much should I expect it to move?
Here is a few pictures to show where it is at now.
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First trip out with the new axle setup. Took it to Moab for some light camping and a race. No issues with it at all. The ebrake still needs a little adjustment and I still need to finish wiring up the elocker but it should come together without any issues. In the end it all seems to have come together but it took a lot of patience and extra work on my end to make it happen.
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For what it is worth to anyone else out there considering a similar axle build, here is what I would share with you.
I placed my order with Front Range Off-road Fabrication aka Diamond Axles. I will never place an order with them again for anything. I would not suggest them to any friend or associate of mine. There are plenty of fabricators out there that can build you the same product; I will definitely go with another builder the next time I do something like this.
The reasons:
I placed my order with deposit in March 2016 with quoted completion date of 6 to 8 weeks. I did not receive all the parts to complete the build until October, 5 months late after being strung along the entire time. I had to remove elements of the original build quote to even get it completed in that amount of time.
Brian lied to me about parts of the build that he said were done but when I received it were not done. They also sold me a set of used parts they said they had in stock only to tell me later the shipping of said parts was delayed because they did not have them.
They welded the spring perches 2 inches off center, I had to fix them; they claimed they did not know how they could have made that error. They did agree to refund me a small reimbursement after I sent them pictures of the stock axle compared to what they sent me. Update, he never refunded me the this cost, turns out it was just more lip service.
They told me they had welded the shock mounts on the housing but the housing they shipped me did not have them on it. I paid to have them added as well even though they were supposed to be included in my original build quote.
The complete WMS to WMS or width of the axle measurement was 1.5 inches longer than ordered. I had to take it as it was because sending it back, if they would accept it, would most likely have set the project back another 7 months.
They also shipped me the wrong bearing set and seals; it took them so long to get me the correct parts (October) that I just went and bought what I needed from Toyota.
They shipped me the incorrect studs for the housing, and again I ended up going to Toyota to get the correct parts so I could move the project along.
Lastly, after I finally had all the parts to assemble it, I found that the Nitro axles they supplied were too long. I had to cut 1/8th of an inch off of each axle to fit them. I was able to get someone more knowledgeable than me to walk me through this and get it corrected.
I paid right around 3k for a custom housing with some used and new parts to build it not including the third member that I bought separate. For that much money I expect them to meet the quoted build time and pay attention detail, at least run a measuring tape correctly. They delivered very poorly. I cannot recommend them for anything .
If anyone is really considering ordering from them and on the fence even after what I have shared feel free to contact me if more info would make a difference.
I placed my order with Front Range Off-road Fabrication aka Diamond Axles. I will never place an order with them again for anything. I would not suggest them to any friend or associate of mine. There are plenty of fabricators out there that can build you the same product; I will definitely go with another builder the next time I do something like this.
The reasons:
I placed my order with deposit in March 2016 with quoted completion date of 6 to 8 weeks. I did not receive all the parts to complete the build until October, 5 months late after being strung along the entire time. I had to remove elements of the original build quote to even get it completed in that amount of time.
Brian lied to me about parts of the build that he said were done but when I received it were not done. They also sold me a set of used parts they said they had in stock only to tell me later the shipping of said parts was delayed because they did not have them.
They welded the spring perches 2 inches off center, I had to fix them; they claimed they did not know how they could have made that error. They did agree to refund me a small reimbursement after I sent them pictures of the stock axle compared to what they sent me. Update, he never refunded me the this cost, turns out it was just more lip service.
They told me they had welded the shock mounts on the housing but the housing they shipped me did not have them on it. I paid to have them added as well even though they were supposed to be included in my original build quote.
The complete WMS to WMS or width of the axle measurement was 1.5 inches longer than ordered. I had to take it as it was because sending it back, if they would accept it, would most likely have set the project back another 7 months.
They also shipped me the wrong bearing set and seals; it took them so long to get me the correct parts (October) that I just went and bought what I needed from Toyota.
They shipped me the incorrect studs for the housing, and again I ended up going to Toyota to get the correct parts so I could move the project along.
Lastly, after I finally had all the parts to assemble it, I found that the Nitro axles they supplied were too long. I had to cut 1/8th of an inch off of each axle to fit them. I was able to get someone more knowledgeable than me to walk me through this and get it corrected.
I paid right around 3k for a custom housing with some used and new parts to build it not including the third member that I bought separate. For that much money I expect them to meet the quoted build time and pay attention detail, at least run a measuring tape correctly. They delivered very poorly. I cannot recommend them for anything .
If anyone is really considering ordering from them and on the fence even after what I have shared feel free to contact me if more info would make a difference.
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seanpistol
Explorer
Sounds like a nightmare. Note taken.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Just read the entire build. Was hoping to see a SAS with portal boxes on a tundra.
Love the entire camping set up. A first for the tundra and seems like the tundra builds are just starting to catch on now years after yours.
Sucks about the rear axle order and delays but man I would kill for that rear end set up. I love elockers!! I retro fitted one in my 1st generation runner and wish it was possible on the tundra stock axle housing.
Love the color option on the wheels. So many people do black. I went with a charcoal gray on my fj80 rims as well. I painted mine and don't have center caps. Not that I would run them. Anyways. I bet the color I used would match your powdered coated ones. The paint I used is rustoleum metallic charcoal gray
Ever figure out the awning? I never knew inno made awnings. Might check them out
Hope too see more pictures of the tundra and camper!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Love the entire camping set up. A first for the tundra and seems like the tundra builds are just starting to catch on now years after yours.
Sucks about the rear axle order and delays but man I would kill for that rear end set up. I love elockers!! I retro fitted one in my 1st generation runner and wish it was possible on the tundra stock axle housing.
Love the color option on the wheels. So many people do black. I went with a charcoal gray on my fj80 rims as well. I painted mine and don't have center caps. Not that I would run them. Anyways. I bet the color I used would match your powdered coated ones. The paint I used is rustoleum metallic charcoal gray
Ever figure out the awning? I never knew inno made awnings. Might check them out
Hope too see more pictures of the tundra and camper!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I appreciate the nice comments. It is hard to express how nice it felt to get it back on the road with the trip to Moab. My wife was equally excited to have it back in action.
I did not mention it but since I had to swap the rims I took it as an opportunity to get some new tires. I purchased the Cooper Discoverer MTP's and they were really nice on the highway. The Goodyears MTR's were old and did not balance nicely so it made the new tires seem that much better.
Toyotech,
Portal axles would have been cool but the main reasons I didn't do them was the drum brakes, the gearing, parts availability, and the fabwork I thought would have been to much. I am happy with the what I have now, I just wish it had not come with so many unnecessary issues. Lesson learned there.
I really like the color of the wheels. I may eventually have the bumper and swing outs done the same. Not anytime soon though.
I decided to go a different direction and sold the INNO Awning before I ever mounted it. Since the door on the camper and the cooking tray are on the back end, I decided I wanted to be able to cover that area really well with the awning. I have already bought all the materials I need to assembly the awning I have in mind. I just need to make time to focus on it. I will likely tackle that after I finish wiring the locker up. I will post up some photos when I do.
I did not mention it but since I had to swap the rims I took it as an opportunity to get some new tires. I purchased the Cooper Discoverer MTP's and they were really nice on the highway. The Goodyears MTR's were old and did not balance nicely so it made the new tires seem that much better.
Toyotech,
Portal axles would have been cool but the main reasons I didn't do them was the drum brakes, the gearing, parts availability, and the fabwork I thought would have been to much. I am happy with the what I have now, I just wish it had not come with so many unnecessary issues. Lesson learned there.
I really like the color of the wheels. I may eventually have the bumper and swing outs done the same. Not anytime soon though.
I decided to go a different direction and sold the INNO Awning before I ever mounted it. Since the door on the camper and the cooking tray are on the back end, I decided I wanted to be able to cover that area really well with the awning. I have already bought all the materials I need to assembly the awning I have in mind. I just need to make time to focus on it. I will likely tackle that after I finish wiring the locker up. I will post up some photos when I do.
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BajaSurfRig
Well-known member
Any updates on this?
So I have not made any changes to the Tunook since I got the new rear axle under it. I am still fidgeting with the emergency break but other than that it is working great.
I am currently considering a trd supercharger for it. I already have the supercharger and was able to remove it from the previous vehicle, so I know that I have everything to install it. The only concern I have in doing this is that the Tunook has 177,XXX miles on it. I am wondering how it will hold up. I would be interested in knowing if anyone has or knows someone who installed an SC on a high mileage engine and how it worked out? My reason for doing this is to add a little more torque and HP. I am looking for a little extra of each and not push anything near it's limits probably stay around 5-6 psi boost.
The 4.7 does great on the highway, holds 80mph no problem, and forest roads are no issue. I tried to drive over Elwood pass last year though an stopped on a steep section of the trail to scout it. I found the 4.7 just couldn't haul the Tunook up the steep slope after stopping it wouldn't go up. Getting a running start may have worked but I didn't want to tear anything up trying that. So I am hoping the SC would add some low end torque to help in those kind of situations. I also re-geared since then from 3.90 to 4.11 gears. Not a big change but a little better.
My only experience with superchargers is in my 01 Tacoma, I have a 3.4 with an SC and it has 278,XXX on it, it is doing great. I got that truck at 165,XXX miles with the SC installed. I don't know when it was installed though.
Any thoughts?
I am currently considering a trd supercharger for it. I already have the supercharger and was able to remove it from the previous vehicle, so I know that I have everything to install it. The only concern I have in doing this is that the Tunook has 177,XXX miles on it. I am wondering how it will hold up. I would be interested in knowing if anyone has or knows someone who installed an SC on a high mileage engine and how it worked out? My reason for doing this is to add a little more torque and HP. I am looking for a little extra of each and not push anything near it's limits probably stay around 5-6 psi boost.
The 4.7 does great on the highway, holds 80mph no problem, and forest roads are no issue. I tried to drive over Elwood pass last year though an stopped on a steep section of the trail to scout it. I found the 4.7 just couldn't haul the Tunook up the steep slope after stopping it wouldn't go up. Getting a running start may have worked but I didn't want to tear anything up trying that. So I am hoping the SC would add some low end torque to help in those kind of situations. I also re-geared since then from 3.90 to 4.11 gears. Not a big change but a little better.
My only experience with superchargers is in my 01 Tacoma, I have a 3.4 with an SC and it has 278,XXX on it, it is doing great. I got that truck at 165,XXX miles with the SC installed. I don't know when it was installed though.
Any thoughts?
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I don't have any experience with the 4.7, but I would say as long as the motor is in good shape, strong compression etc, then you should be ok. I put a supercharger on my 3.4l at ~250k and it handled it fine.
If your worried just add a AFR gauge so you can monitor it and back off if things start leaning out.
Also what size tires are you running and what does it weigh? What are your RPMs at ~80? I know you've already regeared but maybe going to the 4.30s would be more help too.
If your worried just add a AFR gauge so you can monitor it and back off if things start leaning out.
Also what size tires are you running and what does it weigh? What are your RPMs at ~80? I know you've already regeared but maybe going to the 4.30s would be more help too.
Just wondering if you were in 4 low when you tried this hill? I'm sure mine isn't quite as heavy but have loaded it pretty heavy and climbed some gnarly terrain in the Rockies
That is what I was hoping to here, someone who has tried something similar. How many miles did you put on it after the SC install? I have not done a compression test on the engine but the it runs strong as best I can tell. I am running 33" tires, can not recall the RPMs weight loaded is Heavy! if I remember right. I don't want to regear. As far as gears go it is probably not going to change. Everything has it's limits this could be it for the Tunook - steep inclines.
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