TwoTrack's 05 Tundra
- Thread starter TwoTrack
- Start date
rickashay
Explorer
TC uniballs have been great but I really don't have more than 10K miles on them yet. FWIW I do like the idea of the LR because it's a uniball and I too pondered this, however I have a couple locals who have ran the LR arms with nothing but issues. The boots on the uniballs broke on the backside so the owners never noticed and the balljoints themselves failed 2x and this is on two seperate vehicles. Take that as you will and for people who thoroughly inspect their vehicles and do their own work, it may have been noticed sooner. However the uniballs will give you more travel. Another thing I read (again, can't speak from experience yet because I don't have enough miles on mine) was that the poly bushings in the frame mounts are what actually squeak the most. Most people don't grease them at common intervals. I was also told to not lubricate the uniball with any kind of additive. An oily residue on the uniball will only attract dirt and grime causing it to stick and wear out the friction point. I wash my truck A LOT and everytime that includes blasting the uniballs clean from the top and bottom. So far I am squeak free and due for some grease on the poly bushings - I'd like to do them every ~10K miles.
I would be going custom deavers to carry more weight.
With some quick research I found these numbers:
The 5100 is for a 1" lift, I shouldn't have more than 2" max.
I found a FOX 10" stroke, which I believe is what you're running? Is 10" enough?
Yup I have Fox with 10" stroke. It was definitely a large increase but I don't have actual travel numbers to prove, just from wheeling and seeing it flex. Your limitation will be the compressed length even if your leafs allow for more droop. The factory shock mounts with a 10" stroke shock may already mean the shocks bottom out before your bumpstops do, so you have to be very selective even running a 10" stroke. Even if we could benefit from a 12" stroke shock as far as droop goes (doubt it on factory leaves) you would need to redo the shock mounts to allow for the added compressed length of a 12" stroke shock. Or raise your bumpstops to accommodate, limiting your bump travel.
TwoTrack
Buy Once, Cry Once
Ah makes sense, I didn't even think about a longer shock limiting up travel. I need to flex it out this weekend and see whats actually happening.
That's good to hear about the uni-balls. I know LR had issues in the past with the BJs, they've supposedly been fixed. I really want the uni-ball but it goes against my KISS principle for this build.
That's good to hear about the uni-balls. I know LR had issues in the past with the BJs, they've supposedly been fixed. I really want the uni-ball but it goes against my KISS principle for this build.
JduRunner
Observer
The problems aren't just the ball joints or the bushings on the LR arms. The welds at the bushing piviot fail too, another one was on t4r.org yesterday. While a uniball may require maintenance they are also pretty easy to replace when the do wear out. I'll take having to perform a little more maintenance for added safety every day.
TwoTrack
Buy Once, Cry Once
Since first buying the truck the three chrome strips on the front have always bugged me. I love the more finished look the Limited's have with the color match. I've never done any type of body painting before but figured if I messed it up I could find a replacement easily.
I prepped by masking off the entire grill and removing the strip on the bumper. I sanded the chrome to a dull finish, then used the Dupli-Color Perfect Match system, starting with 3 coats of primer, 3 of color, and then 5 clear.
Another thing that had been bugging me was the faded headlights. I had tried to restore them which helped a little for about a month. I bit the bullet last week and ordered up new housings.
The new housings make a world of difference. The last of my cosmetic changes was debadging.
Between those three mods I think it looks much cleaner.
I prepped by masking off the entire grill and removing the strip on the bumper. I sanded the chrome to a dull finish, then used the Dupli-Color Perfect Match system, starting with 3 coats of primer, 3 of color, and then 5 clear.
Another thing that had been bugging me was the faded headlights. I had tried to restore them which helped a little for about a month. I bit the bullet last week and ordered up new housings.
The new housings make a world of difference. The last of my cosmetic changes was debadging.
Between those three mods I think it looks much cleaner.
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Really like the color match grill. Nice work. Definitely looks cleaner. All that chrome can get annoying.
Out of curiosity what makes you think the LR's UCA's look scary? I've had the Camburgs for years before I bought the LR's and I'm happy with them. For me having the heim joint open to the elements caused them to wear out faster and squeak like hell even giving them more attention than anything on the truck.
Out of curiosity what makes you think the LR's UCA's look scary? I've had the Camburgs for years before I bought the LR's and I'm happy with them. For me having the heim joint open to the elements caused them to wear out faster and squeak like hell even giving them more attention than anything on the truck.
TwoTrack
Buy Once, Cry Once
I've been researching UCA's nonstop for about 2 months now. The three big players are TC, Camburg, and LR. LR looks to have had some quality control issues early on. I've also seen more than enough reports of them cracking at the welds. From what I see it looks like they've made changes to prevent this and if you have the latest version aren't as scary as I thought. TC and Camburg have a gusset across the top part where the LR's crack.
Here you can see the gusset on the Camburgs.
Here you can see the gusset on the Camburgs.
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TwoTrack
Buy Once, Cry Once
It's been over six months since I've updated anything here. It's been a busy 2016 and a lot of changes are coming. We've been using the truck as intended and exploring as much as we can. We've come to the conclusion that Tampa, FL isn't the most ideal location for exploring, so we've decided to relocate to the Seattle, WA area (targeting Everett, WA atm).
I’ve also come to the realization that I’ve strayed from my original goal with this truck and that was to keep it simple. You add a lift, then big heavy tires, then you need gears…..it’s a slippery slope, as you all know.
To get back on track I’m planning to replace the OME suspension with Bilstein 5100’s at the middle setting and Tundra TRD coils. The current BFG KM’s are terrible in the rain, I know that I’ll need something better and still debating this decision. I have decided to run a 265/70r17 however.
I’m hoping that by lowering the front, the stock UCA will come back into spec and I’ll be able to get a solid alignment. I’m also planning to add a larger transmission cooler before the trip.
Once in WA the truck will mostly be used for getting us to the trailhead and campsite. We can’t wait to start hiking, fly fishing, mountain biking and just exploring in general!
Notes: We didn't move to Seattle.
I’ve also come to the realization that I’ve strayed from my original goal with this truck and that was to keep it simple. You add a lift, then big heavy tires, then you need gears…..it’s a slippery slope, as you all know.
To get back on track I’m planning to replace the OME suspension with Bilstein 5100’s at the middle setting and Tundra TRD coils. The current BFG KM’s are terrible in the rain, I know that I’ll need something better and still debating this decision. I have decided to run a 265/70r17 however.
I’m hoping that by lowering the front, the stock UCA will come back into spec and I’ll be able to get a solid alignment. I’m also planning to add a larger transmission cooler before the trip.
Once in WA the truck will mostly be used for getting us to the trailhead and campsite. We can’t wait to start hiking, fly fishing, mountain biking and just exploring in general!
Notes: We didn't move to Seattle.
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ive been running some LR UCA's hard for about a year and 30,000 miles. i gotta say, the extra adjustment for camber/caster is awesome; ive never had an issue with it becoming loose or anything like that. just get a manly breaker bar with a cheater and torque the f@#$ out of it. no problems with the ball joint itself or bushings so far; might need to grease em up, but thats it. i'm also just waiting for the balljoints to show any signs of wear (none yet), then im upgrading to their new grease-able balljoint design. ive also noticed the SPC balljoint is taller, especially after the "flip", which seems to make the whole arm sit more level than other brand UCA's with uniballs that ive seen. to each their own! just thought i'd throw in my 2 cents....
TwoTrack
Buy Once, Cry Once
I actually ended up buying LR UCA's. I haven't installed them and I'm currently on the fence if I will or not. How hard of a time do the alignment guys have getting everything setup?
I too also installed LR UCA's about 6 months ago and have about 15k miles on them. They're great. So much better than my old squeaky Camburg's. The uni-ball design doesn't make any sense to me. It lets so much mud and dirt into a moving part and destroys the bushing. I'm still extremely surprised they haven't found a way to cover that joint.
I have the new improved greasable ball joint as well. I have king shocks that are set pretty high and alignment shops have had no issues aligning them. And we have some terrible alignment shops around here.
I have the new improved greasable ball joint as well. I have king shocks that are set pretty high and alignment shops have had no issues aligning them. And we have some terrible alignment shops around here.