unURBAN Adventures - Alaska to Argentina to AFRICA!

unURBAN

Adventurer
Thanks for comments, Everybody! I'll have to get back to those a little later.

First, here is a write up on the bordercrossing between Bolivia and Chile after Ruta de Lagunas:

@ unURBAN.no


E&M
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Hope you guys, Espen and Malin, have a great time once in my country: Chile. There are many things to see and to experience that in some way I've tried to point out through pictures in my post of Chile here in EP. Any information you need lemme know.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/53271-Chile

Hi JP! We have been drooling over those pics many evenings, and we will try to find some of thoses places. And we are hoping to find you when we get Chile in a few days!

E&M
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Yeah we are all being greedy w/ your life. Everyone knows you're nearing the end of the journey and you have been such a good read and your photos have been so great that no one here wants to end the 'book' because where will we find another so interesting? Well I would like nothing better then finding out you were extending the adventure that we all follow from the safety of the internet. I know you just might have to go home to regroup......sad but true. You have been an exceptional couple to follow and I thank you for that. If I was a richer man I would donate. But I'm sad to say I could only kick in a paltry amount. Thank you so much! :coffeedrink:

And thanks to you for readng, bobDog! It is always ice to find comments from you. And we do hope of course that we can meet on the road one day as well.. ;-)

We ARE hoping to be able to extend the trip a little bit. I guess, like all other travellers we meet along the way. This seems to be one of the most discussed topics amongst overlanders as soon as we are done looking over each others vehicles...

Financing is of course an issue, but we don't feel like asking for donations. Until now we have not asked any companies for sponsorship, but if we manage to get a story or two published, this could perhaps be a small contribution on the equipment/maintenance side.
Or I guess we'll just have to come up with someting to sell! :)

E
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
I completely agree with you Bobdog, but don't underestimate M&E... They may travel a little longer.

Espen I just went through the entire thread! I hate to admit that while I was on the road I did not read that much... I think maybe you should do the updates on my thread as well ;)

I really wish we could have done some driving together, but it was nice to see you in Ecuador. I really would have liked to camp out with you guys, with George and Tom and Janet (adventurousspirits.com), Tree and Stevie (sprinterlife.com) and Logan and Brianna (panamnotes.com) in Ushuaia.

Post up the near future plans whenever you can, to have an idea of what is coming. Good luck and keep the posts coming...

Good to hear from you, Luis!

That is just how it is to be on the road, the online time you have has to be spent updating your pages/blogs. The only thing we look for is SPOT coordinates and camping info from other travellers.

And we have heard that the camping in Ushuaia is cold and uncomfortable, so I suggest that we do tht somewhere else some other time! :) Sooner or later you'll arrive in Europe, and there is a lot of good camping in Norway. Or what do you think about the Silk Road...?

Say hi to Lacey!
E&M
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Monteraqui meteorite crater

Leaving San Pedro de Atacama just south of town we drove past the Cejas salt Lagunas. In town we had walked past advertising photos of people floating in these incredible blue lakes. We decided to stop and try out the buoyancy ourselves. It was not until we had paid for the tickets that our minds started to reflect on the fact that it was 5 degrees Celsius the previous night and this might have an effect on the temperature of the lake even if it were T-shirt weather during the day. The water was COLD, maybe 12-14 degrees Celsius. So our experiment with the buoyancy lasted just a couple of minutes.
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In the afternoon we found a nice location for a wild camp south of Salar de Atacama. Sitting around the table in the afternoon with a beer we talked about next day’s route towards the Pacific coast. In our GPS we had seen that some travelers had put in a waypoint for Monteraqui meteorite crater about 40 km south of where we camped. Sounded like and interesting stop on our way to the Pacific, and looking at the map it would not be much of a detour.
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It is funny how you plan your day and get ideas about where you want to go, and then your day turn out to be quite different. Next morning we headed off to the meteorite crater. As we got close to the turn off, we looked for the road, but could not see any. A bit further on we saw two tracks leading up over a hill, but we decided that these tracks could not be the road. Both the GPS and our paper map agreed on that is should be a proper road. We continued a bit further and there we found a road going almost in the right direction. It did not totally match the GPS, but then some times the GPS is not fully updated and new, better roads have been made.
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After 25 km on the road we realized the road was not leading to the meteorite crater. Consulting the GPS and map again, we saw that if we continued on the road south we would hit another road that would take us back west to where we would find another road leading to the crater. Continuing south we drove under some big power lines and there was a small road going underneath it and in the direction of the crater, but we decided it would be better to keep to the bigger road. The road took us to a drilling site and we became uncertain if we were allowed to use this road at all because of some “private property” signs along the road. Our maps were also way off in this area. Best option was to ask for directions at the drilling site.
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They said we could continue on the road, but when we got to the big blue house we should ask for permission in case there was some heavy machinery using the road. When we got to the blue house we saw no sign of human activity, and we made the decision to just drive on. Turning back after about 70 kilometers of driving south was not tempting.
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Suddenly in the middle of nowhere was a sign for an archeological site. It was a good time to stretch the legs and maybe it was something interesting. It was the remains after a shelter along an Inca road, the information sign told us. Travelling through Peru we have gotten pretty spoiled when it comes to ruins so we were not too impressed by this site.
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Now we had done a huge loop around the crater and to get to it we had to find a road heading north. The road we were on took us further and further west, and at last we found some tracks going back north towards the crater. After a while driving along the new tracks we stopped for lunch in the middle of nowhere. It was beautiful.
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This is a photo taken of our lunch spot from north, south, east and west. Continuing after lunch the road/track became rougher with more rocks and it was time to air down the tires.
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Espen and Georg were pretty synchronized at this job.
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Driving north on this road/track our GPS showed that we would hit a lager road a bit further north that would lead us east to the crater. As we approached this larger road we saw that it was the road following the power lines that we had seen a glimpse of earlier in the day, and that we had thought was too small.
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After following our power line highway, we finally got to the GPS coordinates for the meteorite crater. But we could not see the crater?!?! Getting out of the cars we had a good laugh because we had spent more than five hours to get this site that we thought would take 30 minutes. We had driven in a big circle, and when we finally got here it was nothing to see.
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That is how it CAN be when you trust some coordinates you just find in your GPS. None of our guidebooks mentioned the crater, we had not read about it anywhere else, and out here in the middle of nowhere we couldn’t exactly look it up on Google... Which we actually did when we got back to a place with internet, and it IS supposed to be a crater up there somewhere!!
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Since we spent the day driving in a circle we realized we would not be able to make it to the coast this day. After not finding the crater we turned west on our power line highway and headed towards a proper big dirt road. Further west we saw the largest movement of earth and rock of the day. It was Mina la Escondida. It is the largest mining area we have seen.
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These huge trucks, here next to a normal truck to compare the size, were the trucks driving around in the mining area. It is an unbelievable size for a truck.
Out of the mining area we finally found a place where we could get off the now paved road and hide behind some sand “dunes” for the night.
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We did have a great day of driving through some very remote parts of Atacama even if it did not turn out as planned. Always keep in mind that even if you plan your day well you never really know how it is going to be in the end...
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E&M
 

pattro

Observer
Great trip E&M. I really hope you are able to continue your trip after South America because it will be hard to replace your thread/trip reports.
 
E&M,

Like others have posted before me, I have been following your progress off and on for the last year but never commented. Three days ago I decided to start at the beginning and have finally caught up to the last page. I'm pretty sure that my kids will be happy now as they have been eating peanut butter and jelly sandwhiches for dinner for the last three nights as it is quick to make but gives me more time to read about your adventures. They'll forgive me one day....I hope. But to the point, I wanted to thank you for taking the time to post up about your travels as I know that it most likley gets tedious at times. Like others, reading these trip reports rekindles my fire for adventure and though it may be years before I can travel the distances you have covered, it still awakens me to the possiblity of a really life changing trip in the future. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Safe travels to the both of you. Take care
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Thanks for commenting, guys!
Blame us if the kids give you trouble, Cache Crawler, and tell them that kids in Peru have to eat Guinea Pigs for dinner... And we DO of course hope that we can inspire people to travel, and to tell about their experiences on forums like ExPo for others (like us when we are back home...) to read and dream about!
E&M
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Atacama in Chile

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So! We were again on our way south, and now on the northern coast of Chile. Our first stop for the day was at an overland landmark, used by so many “overland companies” as a symbol of being far away from home: Mano del Desierto.
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This is another of the mandatory overland pictures, so we lined up and took our photo. What most people don't know is, and hereby starting the unURBAN myth buster section (started maybe already in the post with the death road…), that the hand is about 200 meters from the Pan-American highway, and that it is a common lunch stop for many locals!
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Here in northern Chile, the PanAm goes through the Atacama desert, and it is a beautiful drive. We followed it for a few kilometers and then took off towards Tal Tal on the coast. We found a dirt road hitting the coast a bit further north, and followed this south along the coast.
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There is not much out here at all, but we did come across a couple of fish camps, on the map referred to as villages. Don't count on supplies out here, bring what you need. We thought that many of the areas we drove through in northern Chile was even more remote than Ruta de Lagunas in Bolivia, mostly because there are no tourist 4x4 tours here, and we hardly met any other vehicles for days. However, I guess the PanAm should be well travelled and safe.
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One of the villages / fish camps along the coast.
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The roads are slow and at places rough, but it is nothing technical, so any high-clearance vehicle will do just fine. It is nice with 4x4 though when you want to get off the road for some nice camp sites. We drove down some sand dunes one afternoon and relaxed a couple of hours in the sun. A local told us we were quite lucky with the weather for the season, and even if we only had about 12-13 degrees Celsius in the day, it was still sun for some hours in the afternoon. In the morning, and normally all day we were told, it was dense, cold Pacific fog.
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Great driving on the roads south along the coast.
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PanAm through Atacama
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But, as it turned out that the weather was a little colder than we had hoped for, we soon headed for the mountains again, and for, hopefully, a warmer climate on the east side of the Andes. The route we had planned was up and over Paso San Francisco at 4727 meters / 15500 ft. We filled up at a gas station in Tal Tal, and a local told us that the pass had been closed the day before because of a snow fall. He called in to a nation traffic service central for us, and the pass had just opened. We did most of the climb the same day, and camped at almost 4000 meters.
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It is really easy to find good spots for wild camping in northern Chile as there are hardly any people or settlements here. We packed up early the next morning and continued up into the Andes Mountains.
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Why the pass had been closed the day before we got there. Still, the road was good, and the scenery nothing less than stunning!
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We came across a lake even more colorful than those on Ruta de Lagunas. And guess what! There was a hot spring!!!
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Life begins at 15000 feet!
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The wind was freezing cold, but we still managed to get in for a short dip. And if we hadn't had a roof top tent it would have been a nice place to camp as well (a lot of wind = noisy tent). At this stage we had already checked out of Chile, so we kept on driving to the Argentinean border post a few kilometers ahead. How that went, you'll find out in our border crossing update very soon!
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E&M
 
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bobDog

Expedition Leader
Leaving San Pedro de Atacama just south of town we drove past the Cejas salt Lagunas. In town we had walked past advertising photos of people floating in these incredible blue lakes. We decided to stop and try out the buoyancy ourselves. It was not until we had paid for the tickets that our minds started to reflect on the fact that it was 5 degrees Celsius the previous night and this might have an effect on the temperature of the lake even if it were T-shirt weather during the day. The water was COLD, maybe 12-14 degrees Celsius. So our experiment with the buoyancy lasted just a couple of minutes.
.
r
6188877633_a1a235d1f7_b_d.jpg

.
These huge trucks, here next to a normal truck to compare the size, were the trucks driving around in the mining area. It is an unbelievable size for a truck.
Out of the mining area we finally found a place where we could get off the now paved road and hide behind some sand “dunes” for the night.
.
6189397704_5918b3fe60_b_d.jpg

.
We did have a great day of driving through some very remote parts of Atacama even if it did not turn out as planned. Always keep in mind that even if you plan your day well you never really know how it is going to be in the end...
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E&M
Maybe they were just digging the crater you missed and you got there to soon?:coffeedrink:
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Maybe they were just digging the crater you missed and you got there to soon?:coffeedrink:

Wouldn't have been a problem for that machinery. When we drove past the mine it looked like they had just moved an entire mountain a couple of kilometers! A 300 - something meters diameter crater would have been easy!

E
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Chile to Argentina over Paso San Francisco

A new post regarding the crossing between Chile and Argentina over the Paso San Francisco route is now available on our webpage.

unURBAN.no

Just in case.... :)
E&M
 

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