Upper A-Arm Problems (Taco/4Run/FJC)

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
While having my lockers and gears installed the technician discovered and showed me that:

1) before disassembly turing the nuts on the lower end of the bolts running through the Uni-Ball joints on my All-Pro upper control arms would allow the unit to move in the steering arm, indicating they were loose, and not held by the taper in the steering arm.

2) These long bolts running through the All-Pro Uni-Ball were also bent. The right/passenger one quite badly, the left side not as bad. My 4Runner has not been 'beat' I'm generally a finesse driver. The only use that could at all be considered 'hard' was the sand course at last years ExPo Trophy. I did catch a little air (1-2-ft? in front), but the landing was soft and smooth. While it is surely possible the 'air' under the tires and subsequent landing were part of my bent bolt problem, I think there is possibly a much larger issue here.

Upon closer inspection and disassembly it was clear that the taper on the bottom of the aftermarket upper A-arms that fits into the steering arm was not long enough and possibly not the correct taper. They certainly don’t fit (wedge) correctly into the Toyota steering arms. This poor fit and spinning free-play most certainly could be a contributing factor in the bending of the bolts.

Just from looking at online pictures and descriptions the Total Chaos and All-Pro upper A-arms look like they might be the same product. I called All-Pro and the counter man (same one I have spoken to before) and he said they have never hear of this. Maybe so. He didn’t have any of these uni-balls in stock to send me a replacement, and wouldn't for two weeks. He gave me a phone number for another company in Riverside, CA (but he didn’t know the name) that supposedly had the parts. I didn’t call. Not sure I want to replace this with the same poor fit.

After discovering this issue I was considering buying another brand of aftermarket upper A-arms, all billet aluminum and very pricy (over $1,000.00). But if they are better I would buy them to have things right. Luckily a friend had some of these aluminum A-arms that he was going to install on an FJ Cruiser. We were able to check the taper on the joint that fits into the Toyota steering arm. It was very loose! The taper is a different (wrong) angle than that of the stock steering arm. It only contacts toward the top of the steering arm with about 3/8" of total contact when the piece was pulled into the steering arm with a nut on the end of the threads. The tapered hole in the arm is an inch or more. The shop technician, owner, and I all believe there should be much more contact in the steering arm.

My steering arm holes do not appear to be rounded and the stock ball-joint taper still fits tight and perfectly snug (as it is the correct taper angle) when inserted into the steering arm. The poorly fitting piece from the billet aluminum arms could be easily wiggled in the steering arm taper unless a nut was used to pull it down into the taper for the minimal contact.

Calls to the manufacturer insured us that they have sold many of these control arms and there is no problem, just tighten them down and they will be fine. Maybe so, but I find it hard to accept that aftermarket parts like this, supposedly designed for and usable for racing, should fit so poorly. This is steering! I was ready to put the stock A-arms back on and temporarily deal with too little caster, but there is another solution in the works.

I'm hoping to have a machinist make a custom sleeves with the correct taper that will fit over the lower section of new 9/16" bolts, that will correctly/tightly wedge into the steering arm hole. The too short (and possibly improper angle of taper?) on the bottom of my All-Pro Uni-Ball A-Arms will be ground down and the taper sleeve will take its place. I’ll know if the machinist comes through and if this works by the middle of next week.
 
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Super Doody

Explorer
by steering arm you mean its the spindle???

Here is a write up with pics:

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79188

Honesty, All Pro UCA aren't very good quality. In order of quality are Total Chaos, DR (very $$$$) and Camburg.

TC IMHO are the best because, they align your truck to stock specs. Its difficult with Camburgs because they claim to have a little more travel. I have Camburgs but I got some DRs when they are blowing it them out at around $450
 

DominicG

Observer
Some pics would be great! I'm starting to think you bent your knuckle/spindle, which caused the other problems.


Super Doody said:
Honesty, All Pro UCA aren't very good quality. In order of quality are Total Chaos, DR (very $$$$) and Camburg.

TC IMHO are the best because, they align your truck to stock specs.


Bingo!
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
Amazing, and good to know.

I have kept my OEM UCA's because I was shy to spend so much money on replacements when my alignment numbers are GTG.

Glad I spent my money on other mods :punk03:
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
This vertical arm that connects to the Uni-Ball is what I'm referring to as the steering arm. The same thing the sway bar is connected to just below.

AllProA-Armsteeringarm.jpg


The All-Pro control arms also correct for caster/steering geometry. After adding them it was easy for a regular alignment shop to align the car, including getting enough caster. Very nice.

Looking at those Camburg A-Arms makes me think they are the same as All-Pro and Total Chaos. They all look very similar. I would not be surprised if one company developed them then has allowed other to sell them under license. Maybe these three similar designs all use a different taper/design that the All-Pro, if so they are better.

The A-Arms that look truly different are the Icon billet aluminum and the new ones from Light Racing. Although they seem expensive for what you get, if these new Light Racing A-arms have the correct taper to fit in the stock hole I will probably buy them eventually. They are also not going to get full of crud in normal use because of their normal/stock ball-joint design.

http://www.lightracing.com/v1b/lightracingToyoArms.cfm

It is surely possible that the steering arm/spindle is bent, but the grade 8 bolt that runs through the uni-ball and was loose in the taper is probably not as strong as the spindle/steering arm. The looseness of the fit in the taper is a problem and I think it makes sense that these bolts would bend first. There is lots of thread on the bottom but not enough of the proper taper.

Some very good technicians looked at this (not only the ones from the shop where I was having my work done) and all thought the obviously incorrect taper and lack of fit into the steering arm was the problem. The bolt on the right side was bent exactly where it is unsupported inside the short taper under the Uni-Ball on the All-Pro A-arms.

Surely it is possible there are a few things going on, often when things fail it is not just one issue ☺
 
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Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Doc,

Your alignment numbers are good-to-go (GTG?)?

Do you know what they are?

How much lift do you have in front?

If I could get enough caster I would put my stock upper A-arms back on right NOW!

After my lift I could only get about 1-degree of caster. Stock it was 3-degrees and with the All-Pro I have about 2.5-degrees of caster.

Part of my requirement for the 4Runner is for it to be an excellent road/travel car. Twitchy steering on the freeway is not okay.

TACODOC said:
Amazing, and good to know.

I have kept my OEM UCA's because I was shy to spend so much money on replacements when my alignment numbers are GTG.

Glad I spent my money on other mods :punk03:
 

BruceTS

Observer
Redline said:
Looking at those Camburg A-Arms makes me think they are the same as All-Pro and Total Chaos. They all look very similar. I would not be surprised if one company developed them then has allowed other to sell them under license. Maybe these three similar designs all use a different taper/design that the All-Pro, if so they are better.

Let me clear up a little for you..... the three companies you mentioned don't have the same product, just similar.... Have you ever wondered why Total Chaos prices are higher than other companies? It's in the quality of production, Total Chaos uses F911 grade bolts, race quality uniballs, the tolerances are much tigher and they use chromoly steel. Total Chaos was the first to come out with the uniball upper arm design, the other companies copied it and are not under any type of license or agreement.

Just because a product looks the same, doesn't mean it'll perform the same.
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
I'm sure you are correct and I'm glad you shared what you know. Appearances surely don't indicate "the same" and I don't want to unfairly question anyones product or quality.

I do know that in the case of one very expensive set of billet aluminum upper A-Arms (Icon) the taper I have written about doesn't match the factory angle and the fit is very poor! The A-arm ball-joint taper they are selling for the 4Runner and FJC is not correct. It may be correct for the Tacoma, but not the wagons.

If Total Chaos has the proper design, taper angle, and fit, I will consider buying a set. I have no other complaints about the All-Pro A-Arms. This taper area IS the problem.


BruceTS said:
Let me clear up a little for you..... the three companies you mentioned don't have the same product, just similar.... Have you ever wondered why Total Chaos prices are higher than other companies? It's in the quality of production, Total Chaos uses F911 grade bolts, race quality uniballs, the tolerances are much tigher and they use chromoly steel. Total Chaos was the first to come out with the uniball upper arm design, the other companies copied it and are not under any type of license or agreement.

Just because a product looks the same, doesn't mean it'll perform the same.
 
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Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Pictures, Measurements, etc.

First to clarify some semantics from our above posts it appears we are all correct. The part in question is a “steering arm” which I think controls the "spindle". Icon Vehicle Dynamics installation instructions for their billet aluminum upper control arms.

“Remove outer tie rod cotter pin and nut from spindle steering arm”

These pictures should help paint a picture for everyone as to the cause of my concern. I don’t have my steering arms nor my All-Pro A-Arms to put these joint ends into as they are with my 4Runner in pieces in the shop. But here are pictures of the stock ball-joint end, it’s total length and taper, compared to that of Icon’s.

This is a side-by-side of the Icon and stock 4Runner ball joint ends, total length and taper difference.

Iconstockballjointend.jpg


Icon part. The lightened area in about the center where the black sharpie ink is removed is the amount of area that is contacting the stock steering arm spindle when a nut is put on the end and snugged down.

Iconball-jointend1.jpg


The ruler is not perfectly lined up but the area of engagement when snugged down is only 3/16” and toward the top of taper, the bottom of the steering arm taper open and unsupported.

16ofIcontaperengagement.jpg


ball-joint end taper area contact of stock part, about 11/16”, fits the total space well, snugly without a nut needed to pull it down.

16ofstocktaperengagement.jpg


Total length of Icon part.

Icontotallength.jpg
 
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Ryanmb21

Expedition Leader
Redline,

I also have the OME shocks and springs and with my 265/70/17 tires my shop was able to align my truck 'very close' to stock caster with the stock a-arms (sorry i don't have the measurements handy). It drives straight as an arrow at 85 on the highway, not twitchy at all. When I installed the suspension, I figured at some point I would get A-arms, now I am questioning if it's worth it.

Besides the suspensions, our trucks are setup very differently though. Good luck.
 

jbs

Observer
This is good to know. I ordered the Light Racing UCAs (for $399 in the group buy on fjcruiserforums.com). They should be here in a week or two. I will keep an eye out for this taper fitment when I do the install. Do you think the sharpie method is the best way to check?
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
Redline said:
Doc,

Your alignment numbers are good-to-go (GTG?)?

Do you know what they are?

How much lift do you have in front?

If I could get enough caster I would put my stock upper A-arms back on right NOW!

After my lift I could only get about 1-degree of caster. Stock it was 3-degrees and with the All-Pro I have about 2.5-degrees of caster.

Part of my requirement for the 4Runner is for it to be an excellent road/travel car. Twitchy steering on the freeway is not okay.

James,
My front is set at 3.0

When I had the front aligned after the DR lift and 255's the tech told me it was "dead on, but there is no room left for adjustment" i.e. maxed out. So, I just left it alone and have been running the stock UCA's ever since :)

Sorry, I don't have the numbers handy...

Drives straight at 80 and no twitchy steering, plus very even tire wear 30,000 miles later is my proof.
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
That seems like a great price unless their website has a terrible typo on it. Was it $399.99 for a set? When I click on the buy now button the Light Racing A-arms come up as $922.00 for a pair! Group buy is over I assume?

I will be very interested to know how well the tapered end of the ball-joint fits into your FJ steering arm. Please post up what you know here in this thread.

Are you going to install them yourself?

jbs said:
This is good to know. I ordered the Light Racing UCAs (for $399 in the group buy on fjcruiserforums.com). They should be here in a week or two. I will keep an eye out for this taper fitment when I do the install. Do you think the sharpie method is the best way to check?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Redline said:
snip.....
This vertical arm that connects to the Uni-Ball is what I'm referring to as the steering arm. The same thing the sway bar is connected to just below.

AllProA-Armsteeringarm.jpg


I have always thought of the spindle as the stub that the wheel/hub/rotor rides on.

FWIW, the part that the wheel bearing resides in or the stub spindle bolts to, and is bolted to both the UCA and the LCA is properly called an "Upright". Rare to hear them actually called that in the off road world (even by people who should know better), but that is what they are referred to as by most of the rest of the motorsports world.
(When it is a live axle under discussion the equivelent part is a "Knuckle.")
They are sometimes improperly referred to as a "Spindle." A spindle is only the part that the wheel hub rotates around in a non-unit bearing design. Older 4wds with a hollow, bolt-on spindle sometimes have that hollow spindle referred to as a "Stub Spindle."
The parts that fit into the Spherical Bearing are commonly called "High Misalignment Spacers" in the desert racing world, where they came from. In this case they are also a taper adapter.
Call me a nomenclature dork if you want, but I've frequently found in my professional experience in racing and manufacturing that knowing and using the correct terminology cuts out a bunch of confusion.

This is a side-by-side of the Icon and stock 4Runner ball joint ends, total length and taper difference.

Iconstockballjointend.jpg
There is a subtle but very important difference in this picture. Note how the stock BJ stud has a sharp taper between the seating (shallow angle) taper and the OD of the threads?
How many washers are between the underside of the nut and the nut's seating surface on the Upright? One very easy failure mode would be for the nut to tighten against the root of the threads without ever fully tightening the shallow taper into the hole in the upright. That doesn't explain the mis-match in taper angles, but could explain why they spin in the hole(s).
I'm rather surprised at those tapered spacers being made that way. Who made them, All-Pro or Icon? It's not a particularly good design.
Toyota tapers are not the same as U.S. tapers. Consequently getting a correct reamer for tapering a hole to the Toyota taper is not easy in the U.S. without ordering them custom. There are many places that can make such reamers, but they won't be as inexpensive as those for the U.S. tapers.
There is not such excuse when the taper is a male feature on a CNC lathe-turned part. That's just sloppy work on someone's part.

I would be extremely surprised if the Total Chaos parts had the wrong taper. They know how things should go together and I've never seen or heard of them doing it any other way.
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Doc & Ryan,

How much total front lift do you have, about 3-inches or less? Are your trucks level or nose high?

Maybe I just had the wrong guy doing my alignment when I had the stock A-arms. My initial alignment after the OME lift left me with just under 1-degree of caster!

If you guys are at 2.5 - 3.0 with the stock A-arms I need to find another font-end guy (the guy I was using is retired anyway). I would put my stock A-arms back on in a minute if I could get that much caster with my set-up.

On Friday I did speak with an alignment technician at my local Les Schwab (7-years expirence) and he confirmed that they are not able to get new Toyotas back to stock specs after they lift them but they seem to drive okay most of the time. I don’t remember how much caster they usually see but I thought it was only about 1-degree like I was seeing?

Before the idea of making the tapered sleeve I was going to go back to the stock A-arms for now. As long as the tapered sleeve is fabricated and works I will likely go that route and see how the All-Pro arms hold up this time.

There is another factor regarding my caster angle that I just remembered. Due to a slight installation mistake with my OME springs, my front end was sitting lower than the rear of my car. If I remember correctly, a nose low attitude gives a bit less caster than a level or nose high attitude. My 4Runner should much closer to level now and this might help caster with the stock A-arms.
 

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