westyss
Explorer
sika 252
I gotta put my 2 cents worth. I did not use any rubber or spacing at all and my gap stayed constant. What I did was use the provided nozzles that had two components to it, 1 - a vee that built up a pyramid like shape on top of the blob of sika that you lay out with the other component of the nozzle 2- the gap producing ,flat blob of sika that is very hard to squish out of place. This is an adjustable thickness by cutting the nozzle end that gives you a lay up of sika to your desired gap thickness.
the pyramid part is what grabs and holds your sheet, this is flexible to either push closer or pull further from your frame to get an even surface. With the rubber gapper you are using there may still be some waviness to the frame alignment. The flat blob , like I said is hard to squish, so that provides your gap. Clamping really wasnt required. If you want to reduce the gap, then clamp, more gap, use a new nozzle with less of the spacer cut off it. Works very well.
Yves
I gotta put my 2 cents worth. I did not use any rubber or spacing at all and my gap stayed constant. What I did was use the provided nozzles that had two components to it, 1 - a vee that built up a pyramid like shape on top of the blob of sika that you lay out with the other component of the nozzle 2- the gap producing ,flat blob of sika that is very hard to squish out of place. This is an adjustable thickness by cutting the nozzle end that gives you a lay up of sika to your desired gap thickness.
the pyramid part is what grabs and holds your sheet, this is flexible to either push closer or pull further from your frame to get an even surface. With the rubber gapper you are using there may still be some waviness to the frame alignment. The flat blob , like I said is hard to squish, so that provides your gap. Clamping really wasnt required. If you want to reduce the gap, then clamp, more gap, use a new nozzle with less of the spacer cut off it. Works very well.
Yves