USMC M1030B1 Restoration
- Thread starter Johnnny13
- Start date
Johnnny13
Observer
I'm back in the US. I should get two of the bikes done. The one I originally stripped to the frame can now be put back together. I'm also snagging one of the 6 LE bikes from some engine work on Sunday. Attached is the next one I plan on starting as well. It only has 837 miles on it. From the UIC code it looks like it was 1/6 2D MarDiv.
Johnnny13
Observer
I rebuilt the carb today. The plan is to replace the fluids, install a Deka battery and see if I can get the engine to crank. Once that's successful then I'll begin replacing and fixing everything else. I got a awesome 465 rear shock from progressive. Then it's just paint and minor parts like brake pads, chain, sprockets, tires, etc. I spent the last few months in Iraq ordering parts and a few of my buddies were trying to hand me checks for one of the bikes. Once this one is done it's onto another of the LE auction bikes (which seems like it's about to start) and then my buddies.
Johnnny13
Observer
Got the battery, fuel tank, and petcock in but nothing happens. It has the combat lock ignition in right now but turning the key won't even turn on the lights. It could be a wiring issue in the console, a problem with the ignition (I have a new one), or possibly one of the lock out switches. I believe those are removed though. Time to trouble shoot this.
Johnnny13
Observer
Today I went ahead and traced the electrical from the battery to the ignition switch and cleaned all of the connections and replaced those crappy fuses. I will eventually switch over to the blade type once I get this bike up and running. I finally got the lights and black out lights to come on once the key is turned to the run position. I filled up the fuel tank and got a minor leak from the fuel petcock. I need a new seal but I'm thinking about switching to the Raptor petcock from Eagle Mike. I did get the bike to crank but it won't turn over. This could be due to the clutch safety switch. I can't get the clutch lever to compress. I think the cable is hung up or just bad. I'll take it off and try another one tomorrow. The bike is in neutral and the neutral light is on. It could also be the carburetor that I just rebuilt as well.
Johnnny13
Observer
I got the high beams and turn signals to work. The high beam switch takes some playing with the get the high beams on. It may be the switch or I may just need to clean it up a bit. I am waiting on a Raptor fuel petcock and a carb rebuild kit so I'll take a few days off this bike. While waiting I finally got the pivot bolt out. I took it to a local shop and they used a press and heat but only got it to move about 5 inches. I was able to cut the bolt on the left side first and then shift over the bearing sleeve to the left to cut the right side. I have a replacement pivot bolt and lever. This was a tough one to cut with a hacksaw. I'll try to paint the frame with Rapco 686 Tan to test it out.
Johnnny13
Observer
I started painting this current bike while waiting for my lift and carb rebuild kit. I had to degrease and wash the parts with purple power, use RAPCO primer, and then RAPCO 383 green. They turned out pretty good. The original markings on the plastics were just stencils. I ordered what I thought would match after measuring them. Them seem pretty close but the font is off. I think I have found the exact font for the next bike. I'm removing the exhaust and airbox for paint. My buddy is going to cerakote the exhaust with the hightemp they put out a while ago. He will media blast it first so we will see how it holds up.
Johnnny13
Observer
I have been slacking on updating the threads lately. I was busy painting the rear swing arm, air box, exhaust, etc. I wound up breaking the chain off while waiting for a replacement. With everything on this bike it was a pain in the ***. I also switched the fuel petcock on the IMS tank to the non-vacuum raptor. All you have to do is cap off the vacuum tube on the carb and your good to go. The best news is that I finally got the bike to start. While waiting on a few more parts and still assembling it I have started on two other bikes. I have all of the lights (to include the blackout lights) working. I'm just rebuilding another carburetor, which I will use to test the starting system in both bikes. The bike is looking much better now. I will post updated pictures within the next week.
[video]https://youtu.be/y2lFImpowSs[/video]
[video]https://youtu.be/y2lFImpowSs[/video]
Johnnny13
Observer
I have pretty much completed the first bike. There is a issue with the clutch not activating so I cant get the bike out of neutral. I'll have a friend that is a bit more knowledgeable in that then me check it out. Then it's just covering a seat and it's done.
I decided to start on bike #2. I went through all of the wiring, cleaned up the connections, installed a new Deka battery, Raptor non-vacuum fuel petcock, replaced the fuses, rebuilt the carb and used the IMS tank set aside for my bike. The other two tanks lying around were really dirty and I didn't want to throw that problem into the mix. Anyone know the best way to clean out fuel tanks?
I was able to get all of the lights and black out lights to work. The bike wouldn't even attempt to start. All I would get is a click at the starter circuit relay. I then bridged the two connections on the starter relay and it tried to crank. After some coaxing I got it to start.
[video]https://youtu.be/G8rTzGfKJLo[/video]
I'll give it a rough once over before I take it out for a test drive in the dirt. It seemed there was a minor fuel leak at first but tightening down the petcock seemed to solve that. There was some oil coming out of the airbox drain. I assume this is due overfilling.
Bike #1
BIKE #2
I decided to start on bike #2. I went through all of the wiring, cleaned up the connections, installed a new Deka battery, Raptor non-vacuum fuel petcock, replaced the fuses, rebuilt the carb and used the IMS tank set aside for my bike. The other two tanks lying around were really dirty and I didn't want to throw that problem into the mix. Anyone know the best way to clean out fuel tanks?
I was able to get all of the lights and black out lights to work. The bike wouldn't even attempt to start. All I would get is a click at the starter circuit relay. I then bridged the two connections on the starter relay and it tried to crank. After some coaxing I got it to start.
[video]https://youtu.be/G8rTzGfKJLo[/video]
I'll give it a rough once over before I take it out for a test drive in the dirt. It seemed there was a minor fuel leak at first but tightening down the petcock seemed to solve that. There was some oil coming out of the airbox drain. I assume this is due overfilling.
Bike #1
BIKE #2
Johnnny13
Observer
We took out bike #2 for a test ride. It went well but the engine temperature ran high. I had flushed out the radiator and overflow. It was a bit dirty but easy enough to clean. I assume it's the impeller or the water pump that needs to be replaced. Other then that issue it handled well. We will now begin the paint and clean up process on it. I already had the exhaust sandblasted and painted with high temp paint along with the front fairing and blackout light painted Rapco 383 Green.
I just received the military shock from F1 Engineering. These were the shocks that were placed on the diesel version (M1030M1) of the M1030B1. They developed the new shock around 2003 to replace the Progressive 420 shock. Progressive developed the 420 specifically for the military. We also purchased a Progressive 465 shock with the RAP. Progressive is an awesome company and the shock looks great. I got the F1 shock from Noleen J6 Inc. I wouldn't give them a positive review based on the 4-month wait for the shock. We are going to go with Progressive 465 from now on.
I found another inventory tag on the upper fork covers of Bike #1 (this one is completed and painted). The UIC code indicates that it was last with H&S Company 2nd Battalion 6th Marines 2nd Marine Division.
I just received the military shock from F1 Engineering. These were the shocks that were placed on the diesel version (M1030M1) of the M1030B1. They developed the new shock around 2003 to replace the Progressive 420 shock. Progressive developed the 420 specifically for the military. We also purchased a Progressive 465 shock with the RAP. Progressive is an awesome company and the shock looks great. I got the F1 shock from Noleen J6 Inc. I wouldn't give them a positive review based on the 4-month wait for the shock. We are going to go with Progressive 465 from now on.
I found another inventory tag on the upper fork covers of Bike #1 (this one is completed and painted). The UIC code indicates that it was last with H&S Company 2nd Battalion 6th Marines 2nd Marine Division.
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