Utility/Cargo Trailer that won't fall apart off road

[darkmark]

I've been looking all over for a utility/cargo trailer to haul around excess camping gear. A box on wheels with a locking lid ....nothing too fancy but something that doesn't cost $20k.

What's out there that I can buy? Thans

And by off road, I mean bumpy forest service roads primarily. Thanks

 

[SBSYNCRO]

For washboard roads, you will want something with shocks, I can tell you that. Better still would be independent trailing arms with coil springs and shocks, but thats probably going to put you on the high side of the budget. I say this because the #1 thing in my experience that will destroy a trailer is bouncing around harshly from the stutter bumps you get on washboard roads. After having trailers with simple axle-over-leaf spring (no shocks) and independent trailing arms with shocks, there is a NIGHT AND DAY difference. The next thing you'll need to focus on is how things are fastened. Anything (and I mean anything) that is not tack-welded or loc-tited will come apart. Sometimes surprisingly quickly. If I were to build one of those cheap harbor freight trailers, I would probably upgrade all the fasteners and use red Loctite and nyloc nuts on everything and figure out how to rig it with some decent shock absorbers and springs with more leafs so that they are more compliant.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

You're overthinking it. It's a utility trailer, not a travel trailer. Buy a box on an axle and off you go.

I have a cheap, folding 5x10 trailer. Leaf springs over axle, no shocks. I put down a deck of plywood, used some stacked 2x10s to make walls, and called it a day. Loaded with a ton of firewood and camping gear it has zero problems bombing down FSRs. If you need a lid, add a lid.

 

[Oscar Mike Gulf Yankee]

I recall going through that torment about 20 years ago, trying to find a sturdy trailer to haul my bike or lawn tractor or camping box.

I went to a steel fabrication shop and built one. Just built a tilt trailer, 4x6 steel floor with a 30" drop gate that folds up, level or down.

It still sits in the backyard. Needs a paint job now but it is dang near indestructible.

I'd suggest you draw one up and go build one, should be able to still build a hefty steel trailer for under $2500, aluminum is probably twice that.

 

[OverlandNA]

7200 miles, blm, fsr, two track thru15 states last winter

 

[seahaul]

interested in this thread, can we revive? There must be someone who makes an empty turtleback expeditions type trailer?

 

[billiebob]

Almost any WELDED commercial trailer should work for well under $5K....

I bought this for work 10 years ago, it weighs 700#, will gross at 3500#, cost $1100.
It has close to 50K miles on it today and it gets worked hard. Landscape trailers tend to be lighter but if the trailer is welded it will likely work.



If you want an enclosed box.... Same thing any Cargo Trailer with a full welded steel frame will give you a durable weather tight storage unit.
Mine has 100K miles on it. It gets driven hard in all weather..... ps check the rear doors before driving thru a snow storm...



Shock absorbers on a utility trailer are a marketing thing, no way do they add value.
I work in the mountains, my cargo trailer sees 10K miles a year a lot of that on logging roads.... without shocks.

Same with the flat deck... now hauling the OSB BOX.

 

[WillySwan]

@billiebob - your OSB BOX is a great looking set-up. Nicely done!

 

[schmugboy]

For the non-mechanical type. Why is a welded frame important, wouldn't welds fatigue over time. Versus a bolt together type where you could replace bolts. I'm sure there is a nuisance I'm missing.

Also back to the original Post, who are the most likely manufacturers that someone that is not a DIY type person go look at to find something stout and survivable without getting a 2nd mortgage. I have a karavan trailer from Home Depot I use for my dirt bikes, atv, raft and other duties, but I don't trust it to log lots of miles on forest roads or logging trials. Yeah the trailer may survive, but anything in it would be shaken to pieces. Lost some oars that way.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Why is a welded frame important, wouldn't welds fatigue over time. Versus a bolt together type where you could replace bolts. I'm sure there is a nuisance I'm missing.

IMO, it's not important at all. People make the weld-on vs bolt-on argument for sliders all the time, and it has been proven countless times that bolt-on is just as strong. If you're building a rocket to go to Mars, perhaps there are benefits to welding, but for the practical world, not so much. Half the welders have no idea what they're doing, anyways. And that includes commercially made/welded products. In my experience it's common to see welds fall apart in no time.

But whether it's welded or bolted together, the challenge is finding something that's done to a high degree of quality. Neither assembly method is an immediate indicator of quality.

I much prefer bolt-together... everything. Parts are easily replaced, easily powdercoated on an individual basis, easily serviced, etc.

 

[Oscar Mike Gulf Yankee]

Well, I'm at the other end of the spectrum, I wouldn't have a bolt together trailer (although I did for my lawn tractor years ago) to go off road or even unimproved roads.

Welding is an art, you need to find an artist. A good weld will not fatigue any more than the metal, it's all about the prep and finish work, the type of weld and the engineering for type of material, thickness and build specifications.

Mild steel is best for rough abuse, most opt for heavier aluminum to save weight. IMO.

Never had shocks on a trailer, seems it would help, but our old travel trailers just had spring axels and the plastic ware inside didn't break.

When it gets really bad on washboards air down and let the tires soak up the bumps.

I recall my John Deere going airborne after hitting a bump with the trailer I mentioned above, just had the front lashed in and that happened in town!

My utility trailer is basically the same design as OverlandNA's above but with a steel plate floor, expanded metal on the sides and a larger ramp gate, it also tilts.

I need to do something with that trailer, it's just neglected now that I have 5 trailers!

 

[jmmaxus]

Weld vs Bolts. Huck bolts have the benefit of both, hence why they are used on military trailers, railroad, heavy industries, etc. Schutt Xventure is the only non-military trailer I know of that uses Huck Bolts. Huck also makes Huck360 bolts that are anti-vibration resistant, can be applied using regular tools, and are superior to nylock and locknuts. If I was to build my own trailer it would be heavy gauge Aluminum using Huckbolts or Huck360 bolts with geomet coating.