V1500 Suburban, lift it 4" or 6"?

gloriavoxdei

Adventurer
I'm trading my '85 K30 cc dually for an '89 V1500 suburban (Can't afford the 7 mpg as a daily driver and need a car I can fit the kids in) that I'm planning on setting up for expedition type trips. I will use it to pull my '17 camper (2800 lbs) and for various types of wheeling. I want to set it up to take maximum advange of articulation so no giant lifts with huge tires. I also don't want to cut the fenders. I'm also going to start acquiring the parts to do a cross over steering setup. I'm torn as to which will give the me the best articulation in the field, 4" or 6". Let me know what you all think.
 

bajajoaquin

Adventurer
I'd be concerned about the strength of the axles on a 1500. If you're towing, going off road, and loading it down, adding the extra stress of large wheels and tires may not be a good thing.
 

gloriavoxdei

Adventurer
Same front axle as a 3/4 ton just with 6 lugs, probably gonna do a 14 bolt swap with 8 lug front eventually. Planning on staying with 33" or 32" tires max.
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
I used to drive that exact suburban with a 4" lift and 35" tires. It was the perfect combo with TBI 350 and 700r4. I don't think you need to go bigger than 4".
 

bftank

Explorer
if all you are doing is 33's do a 2.5" lift in front with 3/4t springs in the back. the 1/2t will sag badly.
 

ccarley

Adventurer
I've got a 4" lift with 35's on my V1500 Suburban, and dude it's tall! Of course, it doesn't help that I'm short...

Articulation, even with the front swaybar connected, has been fine for me in the field so far. In the following pic, I found out later that the core support mounts were MIA, but I believe my front fenders are trimmed mildly in the rear, and no trimming of the back fenderwells:

DSC_0862.sized.jpg


Here's another angle with the tire almost stuffed:

DSC_0857.sized.jpg


At that point, my bumper did tag the marker light, cracking the housing LOL.

I believe a 4" with 33's would be a bit more ideal than the 4" with 35's. Swaybar disconnects from ORD or custom made are a must; the swaybar just binds up the front suspension when it moves stock, and the disconnects add links so that the binding goes away.

Originally I did have stock 1/2 ton springs with 4" blocks in the rear. They sagged & didn't ride well at all. I ended up getting the Explorer Pro-Comp 4" springs, and the ride is soooo much better. If you decide to order springs, make sure to measure the rears; I have 56" leafs, and all of the online sites were trying to sell 52" springs...

Good luck! Any photos of the project?

Clay
 

Northman

Adventurer
In my Opinion are 4" with 35" the best Way . I have 6" and 37" Tires on my Burb , but it's too much .
 

Rot Box

Explorer
Lol I'd go with a 2" lift personally. I think most will agree that 4" is probably as tall as you would want to go.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
For getting kids in and out, particularly if they are small kids, no way that I'd go with a 4" lift. My Sub on ~2" and 285/255's is borderline too tall for my 5'0" fiance' to be comfortable getting in and out of.

I hate to say it, but my granddad had nothing but trouble from the rear axle in their 2WD Sub of about the same vintage. Towing the Airstream with it just didn't work out. Mostly he killed wheel bearings. When you do that in one of those axles you usually take out the axle shaft too. As unnecessarily heavy as the 14 bolt full-float is for you use I would encourage getting one under the rear asap. Likely the same donor can also be the source for the 8 lug front conversion parts (caliper brackets and wheel hub/rotor assemblies)
 

gloriavoxdei

Adventurer
Well, I've been reading and I'm starting to think a 52" stock rear spring in the front and a shackle flip in the back. Should give me about 4" of lift and wicked articulation, atleast till I break a brake line :). 32 or 33 inch tires are sounding pretty good. Here's some pics of the suburban.
 

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d0va

Observer
wow she looks good cant wait to see it witht the lift and new tires... if u dont mind answering how much did u pay for it?
 

gloriavoxdei

Adventurer
I'm actually swapping they guy my '85 K30 Crew Cab Dually (454, TH400, NP205) for it. I have to have a larger vehicle since we have 3 kids and I got the truck to tow a 5th wheel but ended up buying a '17 camper so now I don't need the dually anymore. I can't afford the 7 mpg as a daily driver and the guy trading me needs a truck and plans to use it for camping with his kids. It's definatly a win/win situation for us both.
 

bftank

Explorer
if you don't change out your rear springs you will have a wicked reverse arch. the only reason to put 52's in front is if you are going to do some serious crawling. to take full advantage of it you need crossover steering and long shocks 15" range. no reason to do that with 33's. the 52's are going to be really soft too. your sway bar won't line up. honestly for what you are describing a 2"-4" lift is your best bet. good looking ride by the way.

edit a super flexy suspension will be horrible for towing as well. just so i don't seem like a negative nancy here is where i am coming from. i have an '89 v1500 burb. 4" bds springs in front, sky offroad 4"shackle flip, offroad design 6" shackle, reverse arch stock 56" springs in the rear. it still sags in the back by two inches with nothing in it. my plan to remedy this is to use 63" 3/4t springs in the back. soft ride with the ability to carry a load if needed. tire wise i have 36" super swamper sx's, if it helps i can post pics later.
 
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