FDM2012, I'm not sure what's involved with Bill's mods but those #'s look good for these engines. If you just want 3 different pressure springs and billet regulator housing, get it from dieselOrings. If you want those with lines added to other ends then go with the frx! Cheers!
VOODOO-1 BUILD LOG: 2003 E-350 EB 7.3 DIESEL
- Thread starter VOODOO7.3
- Start date
djbonsu
Adventurer
No problem, oh yea, Re: the possible defueling issue, I think im all good. I found out my old boost gauge connection was leaky and the line near the gauge became severed. Got a new gauge and re-sealed the line/connections and all is well. I can hit 25 PSI now (Dp tuner 80 econ setting and stock compressor wheel). I did end up changing my MAP sensor anyway because it was still reading low (16.5 PSI max) and the new one is reading the same. Weird right? I suspect the rubber line from the Intake Y to the sensor has some leaks. Will investigate that at a later date.
Glad to hear! I found that line on mine was dry cracked and pretty stiff. The Y fitting was also cracked after new HPOP went in. I have been replacing everything with silicone hoses. The local Home Depot actually stocks different diameters in their plumbing aisle. It is a pink/orange color and comes in 10' lengths for pretty cheap. Once and done!
FDM2012
Adventurer
Here are the fuel mods I was referring to:
http://powerstrokehelp.com/7.3liter/fuel_mods/1of2.asp
And as far as performance mods, I am sitting at #4 on his list (with my LiveWire on Performance setting)
http://powerstrokehelp.com/7.3liter/performance_mods/1of3.asp
In the not too distant future, I will be taking my rig to a local shop for a dyno run. I want TO KNOW where I am at,
have them tweak the tune and shift points, and be done with it.
I do still have one issue with it to try and figure out. All you have to do, is imagine that it has a waste gate on it,
and there you go. It sounds and acts just like it. I can hit up to 30psi of boost (Wicked Wheel 2 is no joke and
sounds awesome), I kid you not, and then as it comes up to it makes a big whooshing sound and decelerates.
I can back off the pedal, and it recovers fine and I can instantly reestablish a significant amount of boost.
During all of this, it is still pretty strong and doesn't buck or miss out at all.
I mean it acts just like I am hitting a waste gate, and then it quickly recovers. So weird.........
Any way the EPBV could be closing on me when I am on it like that? Manually, the spring feels pretty strong,
so I don't think so, but maybe I will find a way to clamp it in the full open position. I dunno.....
It just started doing this from out of nowhere a few weeks ago, and at an unrelated time to when I did anything to it.
Just throwing spaghetti on the wall here!
And for the record, I rarely dog it like that, and it is well beyond normal driving conditions that I would ever have issue with it,
but something is wrong. If on a long steep grade, I think it might give me a problem. Other than that, this thing is running strong,
sounds great, smooth with no misses, and only smokes when I am heavy on the pedal and then it cleans up.
I did the HPX today. It is noticeable, and I like it. Smoother and a little quieter out of the hole.
http://powerstrokehelp.com/7.3liter/fuel_mods/1of2.asp
And as far as performance mods, I am sitting at #4 on his list (with my LiveWire on Performance setting)
http://powerstrokehelp.com/7.3liter/performance_mods/1of3.asp
In the not too distant future, I will be taking my rig to a local shop for a dyno run. I want TO KNOW where I am at,
have them tweak the tune and shift points, and be done with it.
I do still have one issue with it to try and figure out. All you have to do, is imagine that it has a waste gate on it,
and there you go. It sounds and acts just like it. I can hit up to 30psi of boost (Wicked Wheel 2 is no joke and
sounds awesome), I kid you not, and then as it comes up to it makes a big whooshing sound and decelerates.
I can back off the pedal, and it recovers fine and I can instantly reestablish a significant amount of boost.
During all of this, it is still pretty strong and doesn't buck or miss out at all.
I mean it acts just like I am hitting a waste gate, and then it quickly recovers. So weird.........
Any way the EPBV could be closing on me when I am on it like that? Manually, the spring feels pretty strong,
so I don't think so, but maybe I will find a way to clamp it in the full open position. I dunno.....
It just started doing this from out of nowhere a few weeks ago, and at an unrelated time to when I did anything to it.
Just throwing spaghetti on the wall here!
And for the record, I rarely dog it like that, and it is well beyond normal driving conditions that I would ever have issue with it,
but something is wrong. If on a long steep grade, I think it might give me a problem. Other than that, this thing is running strong,
sounds great, smooth with no misses, and only smokes when I am heavy on the pedal and then it cleans up.
I did the HPX today. It is noticeable, and I like it. Smoother and a little quieter out of the hole.
Last edited:
FDM, I've seen his videos. If the EBP tube gets clogged, it will effect performance including fueling. If you haven't already done it, you can remove it and clear it out with Weed Eater line and Brake Cleaner. On the turbo end I installed an EBPV delete pedistal, left the sensor plugged in so no codes, and removed the butterfly from the turbo outlet. Some guys delete their factory pedistal too. You can buy a free flow billet outlet from RR or just do what I did for the outlet. Grind metal rivets holding butterfly to rod, remove the internal snap rings, drive rod out with punch, press in 3/4" diameter x 1/4" common chevy freeze plugs and reinstall snap rings. That's exactly what some companies sell as a high flow outlet. That's the most restrictive part of the whole exhaust. I have the stock downpipe and a straight thru Walker BTM and my EGT's are extremely low under occasional heavy loads (18,000 lb. total, van towing 10k trailer).
Last edited:
FDM2012
Adventurer
I have the EBPS dongle and the valve is unplugged. I am hoping/wanting to use it as a brake,
but am more concerned about EGT's..... 75mph on highway and I am at about 700 on flat terrain.
On-ramps I normally hit around 1000.
I could have sworn it was the boots and changed them last weekend, but they looked fine.
I put the crush sleeves in as well.
but am more concerned about EGT's..... 75mph on highway and I am at about 700 on flat terrain.
On-ramps I normally hit around 1000.
I could have sworn it was the boots and changed them last weekend, but they looked fine.
I put the crush sleeves in as well.
Decell tune or exhaust brake is a welcome addition on a heavy rig! I am going with 2008 brakes sometime down the road. I have no experience with Livewire tuners but I can tell you that almost all high performance 7.3's report best results and lowest possible EGT's with either DPTuners or PHP Hydra's. The other tuners run it too hot, too fast from what I've researched. I think that's why Bill went with water injection, etc. Some of his videos are informative but others like his focus on the banjo bolts haven't been accepted by lots of performance experts on these engines. I personally am going with maximum 60 tow and 60 econo from DPTuner sometime soon. Djbonsu and others on here run their tunes if you wanted to compare notes. Cheers!
Got sidetracked from building fun stuff. Noticed slightly erradic/low fuel pressure and the pump was the only original part of the fuel delivery system at 160k. So, instead of paying Ford a-lot for the whole overpriced assembly, I ordered just the bare Bosch pump from Rock for $82 shipped. It even came with some fresh packaged air from Azusa,CA! The pump can be found on there only by searching brand/part #. It is identical to the highly reliable OEM pump. Here it is:
It only took an hour start to finish because you have to swap the output fitting onto the new pump, re-use OEM plug and wiring, and put it back into skid plate housing. Not difficult as long as you have the 3/8" scissor type fuel&a/c disconnect tool. Here's the new pump installed in housing and ready to roll:
Problem solved! My FP is now back to steady 63-65 psi where I wanted it. Now I should be able to get back to more fun stuff!
It only took an hour start to finish because you have to swap the output fitting onto the new pump, re-use OEM plug and wiring, and put it back into skid plate housing. Not difficult as long as you have the 3/8" scissor type fuel&a/c disconnect tool. Here's the new pump installed in housing and ready to roll:
Problem solved! My FP is now back to steady 63-65 psi where I wanted it. Now I should be able to get back to more fun stuff!
djbonsu
Adventurer
Good to hear! I totally forgot to get those WOT numbers to ya, slipped my mind while riding around.
That's ok, Man! Whenever you get a chance. It's running great, and it should, because almost everything is new on it - except the driver! The problem with adding gauges to these things is then, we watch them!
Abitibi, anything's better than paying $350 for the same pump inside a new metal bracket! Even $82 is not bad for a Bosch pump, considering it will far outlast most of the fancy aftermarket fuel systems! It is nice to have a spare on hand too!I got the same pump in my spare parts that I carry with me. I was lucky to only pay $72 for it but was a year or two ago... I'm thinking to swap it and keep my old one as a spare instead
Sent from my SGP511 using Tapatalk
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
While you're at it, I'd recommend replacing the Shrader valve on the side of the fuel bowl. If your year has it, it creates a huge problem if it fails. The cost is only about $3... you'll loose more $ in fuel before you pull over than it's worth... Don't ask how I know.