Water tank addition -- observations

[Right Turn Clyde]

I'm adding a 30gal water tank to our Dinoot. It's an overlooked feature IMO from most builds. I'm learning what an added PITN they can be when done after the fact. Thought others might benefit from my observations.

First, the need for water is clear, and so trailers should be seen as having an obvious role to play. That means a design should start by asking how to integrate on. A couple factors it could affect: frame construction, suspension, clearance, access.

A low (i.e., under frame) mount is ideal for several reasons but leads to clearance issues. I opted for 30gal due to our arid country and that 2 people use total 5gal/day if showering (using Base Camp AquaCube). Good jerry cans are pricely. I paid $195 for this Airstream replacement tank. Has baffles and fittings in a logical spot, and only 6" tall (key for clearance).

The pain is now fabing a frame/skid plate for it, and then welding that all to a built trailer. PITN. If you're doing a build just add a tank to your plans and call it good. Mine will set about 4" in front of the tires' leading edge. Assuming 350lb total, ~30% is placed on the tongue for our frame length, or 105lb. I often have a tongue load of only 100lb so this isn't an issue, and may actually improve off-road handling.

With 2' of frame clearance the 7" I'll lose should be fine. Still I am building the skid to have nerf-like framing to allow dragging on Utah boulders. The tank has good flex though if the skid plate gets dented/compressed.

Ideally a swing arm trailer suspension would allow a long narrow tank to run directly in the center over the axles. In lieu of that this layout is good and still keeps the mass low and well in board of the low side wheel on a cross slope.

If anyone will be at Overland Expo next week I'll have the trailer there, and am co-teaching a new Overland Trailers 101 class.

Cheers,
s

 

[Semi-Hex]

Maybe I'll see you Friday. I didn't know about the new class addition but it sounds cool. I added a 33 gallon tank to my JJ.

 

[Right Turn Clyde]

I'll watch for you. I'm in a white '97 Cruiser.

 

[Lmg]

I'm adding a 30gal water tank to our Dinoot. It's an overlooked feature IMO from most builds. I'm learning what an added PITN they can be when done after the fact. Thought others might benefit from my observations.

First, the need for water is clear, and so trailers should be seen as having an obvious role to play. That means a design should start by asking how to integrate on. A couple factors it could affect: frame construction, suspension, clearance, access.

A low (i.e., under frame) mount is ideal for several reasons but leads to clearance issues. I opted for 30gal due to our arid country and that 2 people use total 5gal/day if showering (using Base Camp AquaCube). Good jerry cans are pricely. I paid $195 for this Airstream replacement tank. Has baffles and fittings in a logical spot, and only 6" tall (key for clearance).

The pain is now fabing a frame/skid plate for it, and then welding that all to a built trailer. PITN. If you're doing a build just add a tank to your plans and call it good. Mine will set about 4" in front of the tires' leading edge. Assuming 350lb total, ~30% is placed on the tongue for our frame length, or 105lb. I often have a tongue load of only 100lb so this isn't an issue, and may actually improve off-road handling.

With 2' of frame clearance the 7" I'll lose should be fine. Still I am building the skid to have nerf-like framing to allow dragging on Utah boulders. The tank has good flex though if the skid plate gets dented/compressed.

Ideally a swing arm trailer suspension would allow a long narrow tank to run directly in the center over the axles. In lieu of that this layout is good and still keeps the mass low and well in board of the low side wheel on a cross slope.

If anyone will be at Overland Expo next week I'll have the trailer there, and am co-teaching a new Overland Trailers 101 class.

Cheers,
s

Please submit link to the tank you have selected.

 

[compactcamping]

Thanks for your observations. From what I've seen, it is hard to find an ideally sized tank off the shelf. Sounds like the Airstream tank you found is a good compromise. An option worth checking out might be having a custom poly tank welded up. Could get ideal size, not sure about cost.

Look forward to see pictures of the setup

 

[RagnarD]

I have considered a water tank as well. Ended up using VP fuel cans instead.

I chose the individual cans over a single integrated tank for the same reasons you mentioned as considerations and;

With the cans you can easily identify level and have discrete points for monitoring consumption. You could even allocate individual cans for their purpose (2 for drinking/cooking, 2 for showers, etc). Can also reduce number of cans for shorter trips or places where additional water is available.

Can segregate potable and non potable water/manage water purification.

If needed, can get water out them in a simple and sanitary way without a pump.

Can shift location in trailer/tow vehicle to suit weight distribution needs.

They are easy to clean/inspect if needed.

Are redundant, if one fails, I will not loose all of my water.

They are easier to refill if needed (a person can simply carry a jug to a stream etc), easy to share if needed, and wont have to leave water behind if tow vehicle/trailer has mechanical issues.

Can move the water cans to fuel can use if needed. Obviously need to remove water first and probably wont want to put back into water service, but it is an option in a pinch.

Drawback is that the cans do take up cargo space and you will probably have to handle/set up something before using them. Although it would be possible to set up a system so you can draw water from all cans at the same time.

My choice was between VP cans and Scepter MWCs. VP cans won because they can be had in clear plastic (easy to see level), accept standard self venting spigots, can easily be plumbed with dip tubes etc, additional cans and replacement caps/gaskets are easy to get, they hold 6 gallons, and are made in TX. Cost for 6 MWC or 5 VP is approx the same, ~$200. I prefer the square cans over round for packing purposes.

My ice chest has a hose with valve attached to the so it can also be used as a water tank in a pinch.

A bit winded but I spent a decent amount of time thinking about this exact issue.

 

[WarPig BBQ]

Has anyone adapted one of these? It has the pump attached and includes an on/off switch. You could easily cut the sprayer off and attach a water hose nozzle.

 

[FMF]

Has anyone adapted one of these? It has the pump attached and includes an on/off switch. You could easily cut the sprayer off and attach a water hose nozzle.

View attachment 345570

I used a cheaper version of a ATV sprayer for my ecotemp instant hot water heater.

 

[Nd4SpdSe]

Has anyone adapted one of these? It has the pump attached and includes an on/off switch. You could easily cut the sprayer off and attach a water hose nozzle.

View attachment 345570

I've got one. I bought just the tank and will get the pump later on. Bought it through Northern Tool and a good price at around $30US. I'm close to starting the mounting for it.