Water tanks and baffles balls???

[osidepunker]

Let's see the truck. 

Its been in the shop for the last two months getting a rear suspension spring under axle conversion and bed cage. Should be good for 16"-18" wheel travel. The bed cage will have secondary bars on it to mount my new Tepui Rugged XL RTT and ARB shade. The RTT mount will be hinged with a gas strut so I can open it to the passenger side and access my gear.

when winter hits I will work on the water tank, secondary batteries/solar panels, and fridge

 

[Robert Bills]

I am designing a 25-35 gallon water tank for my spare tire area under my bed. My truck is a performance truck/RV. I plan on smashing trails at 80mph and then having a hot shower when I make camp for the night. . . . Oh and I am 37 and I will not slow down. . . .

With all due respect, this may not be the appropriate forum for a guy who wants to "smash trails at 80mph."

The stated purpose of expeditionportal.com is to "promote and support vehicle-dependent exploration throughout the world by 4wd, motorcycle and bicycle." Smashing trails at high speed runs counter to every principle of the "Tread Lightly" doctrine and fuels the arguments of those who wish to permanently close all public lands to off pavement vehicular travel. Thus, your irresponsible offroading style does actual damage to the rest of us who participate in this forum.

Perhaps the "punk" in your anonymous screen name is apropos. In any event, the fact that you are 37 and unrepentant about your lack of maturity and disregard for the land is not to your credit.

 

[notdeankane]

Just chiming in back on the technical side of the water slosh: fwiw, if multiple tanks, definitely consider interconnecting and valves. That way as one tank is emptied, you can open the valve(s) and the water will find level across all the tanks.

That's what I do on boats to help prevent a list to one side when one tank is empty.
I do that with fuel on the boat too; but that makes me more dependent on the fuel flow meter rather than just knowing I can switch tanks when one goes empty.

 

[NODNARB]

There are places in the open desert where 80 mph is safe and legal.
30-40 unbaffled gallons won't do much though, i can assure you of that. We've run 35 gal. Fuel cells behind the axle many times on race trucks with no noticeable effect. And unless you're on fairly maintained or smooth roads, you're not going to be doing 80 mph without destroying your truck anyways.

 

[pappawheely]

http://youtu.be/QGgGCvuez14?t=1s

 

[osidepunker]

With all due respect, this may not be the appropriate forum for a guy who wants to "smash trails at 80mph."

The stated purpose of expeditionportal.com is to "promote and support vehicle-dependent exploration throughout the world by 4wd, motorcycle and bicycle." Smashing trails at high speed runs counter to every principle of the "Tread Lightly" doctrine and fuels the arguments of those who wish to permanently close all public lands to off pavement vehicular travel. Thus, your irresponsible offroading style does actual damage to the rest of us who participate in this forum.

Perhaps the "punk" in your anonymous screen name is apropos. In any event, the fact that you are 37 and unrepentant about your lack of maturity and disregard for the land is not to your credit.

With all due respect, you sir are thick headed. "...vehicle-dependent exploration throughout the world by 4wd, motorcycle and bicycle." This is what I do. I drive all over the place, find badazz campspots, and then enjoy my surroundings. My truck is the tool that I use to explore. How am I not following the mantra here???

And who the F! are you to claim that I have an " irresponsible offroading style" and I am doing "actual damage to the rest of us who participate in this forum"??? Please. You have never seen me drive. I have already explained in this thread how I am safe and responsible off trail. Unless you have evidence to the contrary, why are you attacking me???

I would say that there are places where it is legal and safe to do 80mph but...

There are places in the open desert where 80 mph is safe and legal.

NODNARB gots mah back ^^

30-40 unbaffled gallons won't do much though, i can assure you of that. We've run 35 gal. Fuel cells behind the axle many times on race trucks with no noticeable effect. And unless you're on fairly maintained or smooth roads, you're not going to be doing 80 mph without destroying your truck anyways.

Just chiming in back on the technical side of the water slosh: fwiw, if multiple tanks, definitely consider interconnecting and valves. That way as one tank is emptied, you can open the valve(s) and the water will find level across all the tanks.

That's what I do on boats to help prevent a list to one side when one tank is empty.
I do that with fuel on the boat too; but that makes me more dependent on the fuel flow meter rather than just knowing I can switch tanks when one goes empty.

Thanks fellas, I appreciate the help. Seems like I am making a bigger deal out of the sloshing than I need to. Maybe I will do two tanks instead of 4...

I am also worried about cold weather. I plan on driving to Alaska in a few years. My backseat is not needed. I have already removed the drivers side for gear and a future fridge, but I was kinda thinking that if I mounted a tank on the passenger side rear floor, it might not freeze as easily... The other option is to insulate it. That should be easy since I plan on a metal enclosure to hold it if I go with the spare tire area.

 

[GR8ADV]

With all due respect, this may not be the appropriate forum for a guy who...

Seriously...SERIOUSLY?

 

[aerofab]

I am also worried about cold weather. I plan on driving to Alaska in a few years. My backseat is not needed. I have already removed the drivers side for gear and a future fridge, but I was kinda thinking that if I mounted a tank on the passenger side rear floor, it might not freeze as easily... The other option is to insulate it. That should be easy since I plan on a metal enclosure to hold it if I go with the spare tire area.

I've had a similar idea to run a tank in the spare tire area and at similar capacity, but keep in mind that 35 gallons of water is nearly 300 pounds. Thats just too much extra weight behind the rear axle for me considering all the other gear I have too. Keep that sort of extra weight as low and centered on the truck as possible to keep it more balanced and nimble. Especially if you are running the trails hard. I think your idea of putting it in the back seat area is a good one and it won't affect your vehicle dynamics as much back there. I plan to run mine just behind the cab.

 

[pappawheely]

I've had a similar idea to run a tank in the spare tire area and at similar capacity, but keep in mind that 35 gallons of water is nearly 300 pounds. Thats just too much extra weight behind the rear axle for me considering all the other gear I have too. Keep that sort of extra weight as low and centered on the truck as possible to keep it more balanced and nimble. Especially if you are running the trails hard. I think your idea of putting it in the back seat area is a good one and it won't affect your vehicle dynamics as much back there. I plan to run mine just behind the cab.

Good points. Once you start adding all that weight you have to consider what that does to everything else on the truck. Your custom suspension might handle the stresses but what about your axles, brakes, etc. You should just build a Trophy Truck. :victory:

 

[osidepunker]

I've had a similar idea to run a tank in the spare tire area and at similar capacity, but keep in mind that 35 gallons of water is nearly 300 pounds. Thats just too much extra weight behind the rear axle for me considering all the other gear I have too. Keep that sort of extra weight as low and centered on the truck as possible to keep it more balanced and nimble. Especially if you are running the trails hard. I think your idea of putting it in the back seat area is a good one and it won't affect your vehicle dynamics as much back there. I plan to run mine just behind the cab.

Yeah I hear ya. Right now I have all my fluids right behind the cab. I wanted to lower the weight, but there is nowhere under the truck to put water other than the spare tire area. So I was thinking I would put water there, and batteries and fuel right behind the cab. Two full size spares are going right behind the fuel, between the wheel wells. That leaves the whole rear third of the bed for gear/firewood. RTT, recovery gear, and awning are going on a low-mounted rack.

Maybe I should move the batteries to the spare tire area. Battery weight should be 100lbs. Then I could put the water in the cab behind the passenger seat with storage right above it. Fridge would be on the drivers side.

Good points. Once you start adding all that weight you have to consider what that does to everything else on the truck. Your custom suspension might handle the stresses but what about your axles, brakes, etc. You should just build a Trophy Truck. :victory:

My performance goal for this build is 50% Trophy Truck performance. 2018 is the target date. When finished, I will have 16" wheel travel in the front, and 18" in the rear with race quality bypasses and hydro bumps at all four corners. I will keep the spring rates soft for good articulation. I will also add air lockers and gears, full armor, winch, and 37s

As for the stresses, for the front I have added spindle gussets and race quality upper control arms. I am looking into cam tab gussets as well. For the rear, I have leafs with extra load capacity, bed cage to add frame stiffness, and I fully boxed the frame where the hydro bumps mount. In the future I will fully box the whole frame and I will add more tube when I do the rear high-clearance bumper and spare tire area. Axles and brakes are good. I am very close to my GVWR, maybe just over but not by much. The tundra is a full size half ton with the best brakes and largest axle out there. I feel very comfortable with my loads.

trust me, I have durability and reliability as my foremost concerns. Performance is second, and comfort comes in third.

badassery is not my concern, however, it keeps falling in my lap :sombrero:

 

[osidepunker]

I've decided to mount the tank inside the cab, behind the passenger seat. I can get any dimensions I want so final tank size will depend on how I arrange the fridge, tank, and gear storage. Shooting for 30 gallons. Since it will almost be centered between the axles, I am not going to worry about baffles. Spare tire area will get a 7 gallon aluminum air tank and 10 gallon propane tank.

Thank you all for your help

 

[pappawheely]

If you are running race bypasses you really don't need hyd bumps; save your money.

 

[osidepunker]

If you are running race bypasses you really don't need hyd bumps; save your money.

I agree with this on trucks with limited travel. Currently on my front, I have about 12" sprung wheel travel. Thats not much for a 5500# truck. So I have a 2.5 single rate coilover and a 3 tube 2.5 bypass. This is the best way to maximize the use of short wheel travel. The bypass acts as the hydro bump and the rubber bumps take over on big hits. hydro bump not needed

More than 12" and hydro bumps become useful (again, based on a heavy 5500# truck). So for my rear suspension, I will pull somewhere around 16"-18" sprung wheel travel. The idea is that for 90% of all situations, you are riding within the bypasses zone. So it will feel like you are riding on 13"-14" wheel travel. On big airs or big whoops, you hit the hydro bumps and get next-level dampening to protect your truck.

In a couple years, I will add a long travel kit to the front. It should be good for 16" wheel travel. At that time, hydro bumps for the front will make sense.

 

[osidepunker]

So thanks to another member here, philos, I found these tanks:

ABS Water Tanks Archives - Valterra

They're baffled too!

I could lay one inside against the rear of the cab. Use the bolt holes for the seats as anchor points and bolt it down.

I would probably do the 48" one for 24 gallons.

ABS means I can weld fittings wherever I want...

 

[Buliwyf]

Making this more complex than it needs to be.

-A full tank needs no baffles. An empty tank needs no baffles. That's why RV's travel with either a full tank or empty tank.

- An empty tank won't be damaged in Alaska cold. If it's that cold you only need a gallon or two of water to wash your face and brush your teeth. No need for a shower in the snow unless you've been eating Mexican or Chinese. Or worse, Mexo-chinese. I just watch what I eat when showers aren't around. Don't put a water tank in your cab.

-Who says you need to carry water? If there's already water there, like a pond, pump it through a filter before it gets to your shower heater. Tankless showers are possible.

-Semi tanker trailers are rarely flat faced for a reason. The fluid sloshing around needs a flat surface to impact it's force upon. So those tankers with curved front and rears with pointy little tips have way less noticeable effect of sloshing. Less surface area at the rear or front of the tank means less sloshing force. A flat faced cylinder shaped trailer with no baffles, usually for chemicals, can push a semi with all 18 wheels locked up to 10 feet forward, after the truck comes to a quick stop. My point is, if your tanks have complex rounded shapes and edges, less slosh. Also cylinder shaped tanks have sloshing on each end, but not really side to side because of the curve. It just sloshes up the side 'till it loses energy. No solid wall to slam into.

Simple stuff like above almost completely mitigates the problems of sloshing. For the rare case your stuck with a half tank, just be careful.