DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
I use this: http://magnumenergy.com/smart-battery-combiner-me-sbc/
to drive this: http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012/L_Solenoid_-_12_24V_DC_250A
But if I were to do it again, I would use this: http://www.bluesea.com/products/762...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
Because the ML-ACR costs less and has manual and remote control.
There are a couple of times when the remote control might be nice:
-- If I start the air conditioner the voltage will drop well below 13v. If I start the engine, the batteries will not combine as the voltage at one of the batteries is too low. I have to stop the A/C, start the engine, and then restart the A/C. At this point, the batteries will stay combined because the engine alternators keep the voltage above the disconnect point. A manual switch would save a step here.
-- Similarly, you might want to force combine the batteries when winching or AFTER winching when you have hammered BOTH batteries and you really have to get the truck to start. I can't self jump with cables as the camper batteries are too far away and too inaccessible.
I suppose there might be a time when you wanted to be sure that the batteries did not combine, even with a charge present, but I can't think of it. In any case, the Blue Sea ML-ACR offers that option as well, either by remote or manual control.
As always, YMMV, etc.
to drive this: http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012/L_Solenoid_-_12_24V_DC_250A
But if I were to do it again, I would use this: http://www.bluesea.com/products/762...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
Because the ML-ACR costs less and has manual and remote control.
There are a couple of times when the remote control might be nice:
-- If I start the air conditioner the voltage will drop well below 13v. If I start the engine, the batteries will not combine as the voltage at one of the batteries is too low. I have to stop the A/C, start the engine, and then restart the A/C. At this point, the batteries will stay combined because the engine alternators keep the voltage above the disconnect point. A manual switch would save a step here.
-- Similarly, you might want to force combine the batteries when winching or AFTER winching when you have hammered BOTH batteries and you really have to get the truck to start. I can't self jump with cables as the camper batteries are too far away and too inaccessible.
I suppose there might be a time when you wanted to be sure that the batteries did not combine, even with a charge present, but I can't think of it. In any case, the Blue Sea ML-ACR offers that option as well, either by remote or manual control.
As always, YMMV, etc.
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