weatherproof outlet for 8 ~ 10 AWG

[wandererr]

I'm trying to come up with a way to charge the battery in the trailer and have two scenarios:
- deployed external solar
- "fat short wire" from the front of the JK

I figure I am going to setup a outlet of sorts on the trailer into which I can plug solar or the jeep. From the jeep I am probably going to run 8 or 10 gauge... maybe even 6. Solar doesn't need that heavy of a wire but I want to reuse the same socket. I found a nice weatherproof outlet on Amazon but that's for 16 gauge wire.... any suggestions?

https://smile.amazon.com/Luggage-Electrix-PTB-001-Tankbag-Saddlebag/dp/B00LB4ACQ6/

 

[Hopeless Diamond]

How about an Anderson Powerpole panel mount

https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-panel-mount-powerpole-housing

 

[john61ct]

Yes APP with the weatherproof boots

 

[wandererr]

How about an Anderson Powerpole panel mount

https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-panel-mount-powerpole-housing

At first I was going to say - why do I want 2 pairs... but then it dawned upon me:
- first pair running to solar charge controller for when connecting solar panels
- second pair running directly to the battery for when connecting to the car for charging...

this might be the winner!

 

[Semi-Hex]

If you get the Anderson pp you'll need to get the larger (45) crimp connectors since I'm sure they come with the 30 amp size.

 

[wandererr]

Just be sure you dont get mixed up & plug solar modules direct to battery...
(If you did mix up, wont really hurt anything provided you dont leave connected a long time. )

Yeah - that's the only thing I'm concerned with - the thought occurred to me after I posted. I'd be almost better to get two outlets with two different sockets so that the cables can't be mixed up.

 

[peekay]

I used one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Cord-...48216&sr=8-6&keywords=30amp+rv+extension+cord
I cut that cable in half. One side is connected to the car battery, the other side to the trailer battery. There are three 10 gauge lines. I used two for the positive and one for the negative. I'm guessing that's equivalent to a 7 gauge cable. https://www.wirebarn.com/combined-wire-gauge-calculator_ep_42.html

You may be able to use all three for the positive and just use the trailer to truck body connection as the ground.

 

[vartz04]

you can do it with 120v ac type plugs but you need a power outlet and a power inlet so its not a "suicide cord" between the two. you basically just need a standard outdoor receptical, and then one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-...F8&qid=1501683645&sr=8-4&keywords=power+inlet

the wires don't care if its AC or DC and you can use a 10 gauge extension cord, or make your own 8 gauge one with replacement plug ends and you are good to go. You could use standard house plugs for the solar and then twist lock RV style ones to connect to the vehicle so you cant mix them up.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I would recommend the Anderson SB50 connector since you mentioned 8 or 10 AWG wire plus they have some really nice environmental protection boots and covers.

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors#/specFilters=129m!#-!307

 

[peekay]

Happy it works for you !!
Both above points are seriously bad idea.
If battery exists at both end of this cable & connector, that means exposed energised pins exist whilst unplugged. Its no shock hazard, but shortcircuit hazard. Congratulations, pretty high fault current too. Even with OCPD, its signifigant fire hazard.
Secondly, depending on a trailer hitch as negative grounding is just a loose connection. It maybe good one moment, bad the next..
If one does this, be sure to use non rusted safety chains as their loose assembly adds to electrical reliability...

1. There's this amazing invention that solves the "problem" you identify. It's called, wait for it... a fuse! Perhaps you are familiar with such a device?
Yes, a 40 or 60 amp maxi fuse will solve this "problem." Also, on the male end, just get a 30amp female end and use it as a cap.

2. Using the body as a negative ground may or may not be sufficient. That's why I use the 3rd pin on the outlet as a negative. There's always at least 10g worth of negative.

Really, you're overthinking this. The reality is that most alternators will not charge the trailer battery at any real power for any extended period of time. Most alternators will detect that your truck battery is nearing full, and taper the charge back. So regardless of how thick of cable you get, you'll end up only charging the trailer battery at 2-5amps, most of the time.

 

[rayra]

Another vote for APP. The boots fit nice and snug and they have a retention loop built in.

Consider arranging your trailer wiring circuits such that the same port can handle both the vehicle connection or the remote solar input