Weight control, for the people, and the camper. Half ton F150 overlander build.

dbhost

Well-known member
As those that have been following my posts on and off know, weight has been an issue for my wife and I. We have recently taken some rather drastic action that I won't go into to get this managed better, but the weight is dropping off, and we both have droped enough weight, and size that a king size bed for the two of us while it would be nice, is not neccessary.

That frees us up for a MUCH more reasonable overlander build, and allows me to form a better plan.

For starters, I have a friend that seems to find all sorts of funky used stuff on the cheap, or free even.

He has sourced up an aluminum hi top contractors cap from a truck like mine that got wrecked. The top is 48" from bed rail to ceiling, has dual walk in style doors, and 2 fold open access panels / windows on each side.

If you look for the F150 Craptor build, I am planning on doing the same thing for hanging the window unit AC for cooling during late spring through early fall

Bed will be simple, Platform at the bed rail height, based on a "roller" bed frame with 3/4" plywood platform and an inexpensive memory foam short queen mattress from Walmart. The platform will be segmented to hinge at the front to allow access to the water and electrical compartments.

Before anything gets moved into the toppper, it needs to be insulated. Planning on just doing spray foam insulation, levelling it out, and then covering it over with the T&G cedar bead board I have. I think the stuff is something like 1/4" and being cedar it is feather light.

The actual truck bed itself and tailgate will need to get SOME sort of insulation and I am thinking a Bedrug. I know not a LOT but that should at least offer some insulation value... Plus level out the bed floor.

The forward most area of the bed will be divided with a PMF bulkhead into 2 secions that are separated. One for the water system that will feature 4 Reliance 7 gallon AquaTainers, a single pickup can be moved tank to tank, this will provide 28 gallons fresh water. A 12v pump, water bandit, and multi stage filtration system will allow pickup of water from a variety of fresh sources.

Through wall penetrations for 110V input AND output will be installed as well for the electrical system. Upgrade the group 27 deep cycle to a AGM 100 amp hour and if I can get it to go into Group 27 size to fit the box all the better. I have 12v oulets and USB charging outlets plus monitors on the battery box, this would likely be changed up at this point to 12V outlets and USB on a panel at the front of the inside of the camper shell, preferrably mounted on a shelf that can hold my USB stuff AND my CPAP.

Charging needs to be figured out. I need to see if I can get some kind of charge controller that will take both solar panel, and 110v AC input from a generator.

Generator is my Sportsman 1000 inverter. Not perfect, but will run my AC all night long if I need it.

The bed. Like I mentioned, steel roller frame with a plywood platform. The cheap Walmart memory foam mattress we have in the guest room that is freakishly comfortable, has a RV short queen option as well, which will just fit in the standard F150 bed... The roller frame will be suported by simply taking sections of galvanized pipe, size depending on the leg size of the roller frame, remove the rollers, and, well have the nipples cut and threaded to size. Using pipe flanges to distribute the weight accross the truck bed floor.

Anyway, remaining gear can be stored either on its own such as the toilet and fridge, OR in totes. I am considering maybe a slide out for the fridge and kitchen stuff tote. In transit toilet should be double wrapped if not more in mulitple plastic trash bags just in case of a black water leak...

I really like my Lifetime cooler, but would like to go with an actual fridge. I am thinking a BougeRV 53 quart. I need to keep costs reasonable. I really can't afford a Dometic or anything like that so....

After much going back and forth, I will go ahead with a propane system based off of a 20lb BBQ tank. I need to figure out safe carrying location while in transit, but I have the distribution tree, hoses, filters etc. I have the lantern, stove, heater, hot shower etc... so no realy good reason not to go with it other than common fuel availablitiy with the truck and generator. I can live with 2 fuel types I guess.

Bathroom / shower is as it is now. Camplux 5L hot shower, with options to pump witht he 12v pump, or direct garden hose hookup, both with filtration. A Joolca Ensuite Double shower tent, and a 5 gallon Jaxpety flushing toilet.

I think I would want to ditch the EZ Up in favor of a custom made / purpose built awning for the side of the truck. A simple tarp rig over the back of the truck shell/ access doors will cover the rear entry in the event of rain or heaven help us Snow...

I am considering a cargo basket with air deflector for the top of the truck cab as well for misc gear. I already have a soft side roof top carrier, but no air defelctor, and I am concerned about the flat forward face of the hi top, Even just rigging something up as a windjammer of sorts...

So the idea here is to arrive in camp. Level the rig as best possible, fold out and stake awning. If windy set up sidewall panels to block wind. Set up PackAway kitchen stand, and roll up table / chairs

On other side of truck set up Ensuite, hot shower rig, water supply, and toilet

Set up propane tank, hoses, and center tank wherever light is needed as the lantern will be tethered to it.

IF needed set up AC, and generator.

Proceed with exploring, fishing, hunting, whatever...

Mods wanted for the truck itself?

Replace the funky OEM exhaust with Summit 3". Custom 2.5x2.5x3" Y pipe, and reasonably quiet Magnaflow 3" SiSo muffler. Exit in stock location.

Replace halogen bulbs in off road lights with brighter and more energy efficient LEDs.

Replace 35x12.50/17 mud tires with 33x12.50/17 All Terrains. The MTs are LOUD, wear too fast, and even with trimming rub occasionally. The 33s I used to have never did and I don't want to lift with a 5' tall wife...

Replace rusted step bars.

Install towing package wiring harness and integrate LED reverse lights into rear bumper.

4.11 gears and selectable lockers. I could go 4.56 but I want something resembling gas mileage at highway speeds.
 

Grassland

Well-known member
You have 230# of water. The cap is going to be at least 200#. Another 100# for the propane tank and battery.
I haven't gone through the list with a fine tooth comb but it struck me as adding up well over 1000#.
Not including the weight of the tires.
 

OverlandNA

Well-known member
Bedrug provides no perceptible insulation.
Bougerv 53 gets (y)(y) from my experience.
I had a 40" tall alum cap built for 8' bed, approx 250 lbs.
Weight adds up real quick.
 

dbhost

Well-known member
You have 230# of water. The cap is going to be at least 200#. Another 100# for the propane tank and battery.
I haven't gone through the list with a fine tooth comb but it struck me as adding up well over 1000#.
Not including the weight of the tires.

Cap is 170lbs per the truck scales, without insulation. Long bed caps do weight a bit more... I am figuring 3 sheets 3/4 XPS which is 4lbs a sheet. Add another 2lbs for adhesives. Round up to 200lbs for cap insualted and lined.

260 lbs for water which is above your number, including fresh water in the toilet. This is my biggest hit and a non negotiable. Unless I am camping where fresh water can be pumped and filtered. But for travel through Deserts and such... Mind you, both my wife and I are big people, missing a shower is just not a good plan. I can "navy shower" but I would have to pinch off the hose to get her to play nice... 28 gallons fresh would give us about 4 days of travel water.

Worthington tank is 16lbs dry. Add 20lbs of propane you've got 36lbs. That is nowhere near 100lbs.

8 inch short queen memory foam mattress 40lbs. Frame and plywood sheeting another 40lbs if I use 1/2" ply. So bed minus bedding is 80lbs. I can reduce that weight even further using a Coleman Queen air mattress and a memory foam topper but I wouldn't trust an airbed for long term use.

100 amp hour AGM group 27 deep cycle battery 64 lbs.

I am certain there are lots of little nee naw and gee gaws that add up, my point is you are overestimating to an extreme amount weight. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it also isn't a good thing.

For example. I am seriously considering swapping my winch from steel cable and roller fairlead to a hawse fairlead and synthetic cable to save the 40lbs extra weight of the steel cable.

Of and FWIW, the Bougue RV 53 qaurt is 43.3lbs, The Lifetime cooler is 23.4lbs but EASILY outweighs the Bouge with the weight of ice blocks, plus I won't have to worry about ice except for drinks...

Oh FWIW, I did opt for an aluminum cap and NOT a fiberglass one specifically for weight purposes. High Top glass caps from what I can see start at just south of 300 lbs and don't offer as much interior volume, but they do look nicer.

And it looks like Bouge offers a 59qt as well that is actually only 41lbs... But I need to stay under 24" tall to keep the fridge under the bed.
 

dbhost

Well-known member
Bedrug provides no perceptible insulation.
Bougerv 53 gets (y)(y) from my experience.
I had a 40" tall alum cap built for 8' bed, approx 250 lbs.
Weight adds up real quick.

When I was in HS, I had a Chevy LUV 4x4 with a cap and a sleeper platform. My buddies and I lined the bed with rat fur carpeting and it massively reduced drafts etc... I am not looking for insulation per se, but blocking drafts off so I can control airflow in the cap. I want to be able to vent so for example I don't get a freezing breeze across my feet all night...

Totally agree. It wouldn't seem to make sense that a mere 1.5' of additional cap makes that much weight difference. But my friend when he picked the cap up for me took his truck through the scales with the cap on his trailer. From a known empty weight the trailer weights 170lbs more. Not even sure what MFG it is. I am wondering if maybe they cheaped out on ribbing or something... The Harbor Freight aluminum cap as it were...

I would be a LOT less worried about weight if I had a Super Duty truck, but man prices shot up... I kind of need to work with what I have. Which means an IFS 4x4 truck with a 5.4L 3V Triton engine and a max playload of 1900lbs per the door jam sticker. That includes my fat tail. Thank GOD I am dropping that number but it will be a while before it resembles a reasonable number...

It should be noted, liquid fueled appliances like my Coleman 424 easily weigh double what the propane variants do, but the weight of the fuel distribution kind of counters that...

The reason for all the onboard water is also, possibly misplaced, but pull out camp sites along various roads, particularly from New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, Oregon, Washington etc...

Part of the reasoning for the awning is kitchen, but also office space. I work IT and can / do work remote. I am trying to take remote to a new definition as long as I can get 4G signals...

Consider it cheaper and more effective than therapy, not to mention I seriously doubt I am going to be able to retire so might as well travel NOW...
 
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Grassland

Well-known member
What model and brand cap is it? If it's that light I'm interested for my next one.

I had propane and battery at 100# together so matches your weights.

If you travel in the desert or where water isn't potable than yeah you are stuck hauling it around.
Fridge vs cooler with ice is a wash, take the convenience of a fridge if you can.

If your truck is the 4 speed auto I'm not sure what would be better, 4.11 or 4.56. I'd say the 4.11 if you stick with 33s. Bit that's a big bill to get wrong
 

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