Weight Distribution in the snow

Wirebrush

Observer
I use weight behind axle when running plow to offset weight of plow hanging off front. But for a van or any rear wheel drive vehicle you want the weight directly over rear wheels to push them into ground to provide as much psi as possible to tires. The weight behind the tires would have the effect off lightening front end not putting enough psi to those tires for stearing.

That is entirely dependent on the particular vehicle and it's current weight distribution, wheelbase, tire and axle configuration, etc. All vehicles have very different handling characteristics that any competent driver can adapt to. A maxed out trailer tounge weight on an otherwise empty standard cab 1/2 ton pickup is not necessarily a disaster waiting to happen. If it was, the ditches would be full of them. I've driven everything from a VW Baja bug to a bobtail tractor on snow and ice and many others have as well without crashing. No, neither has an ideal weight distribution. The former tends to under steer and the later tends to oversteer, but they are both drive able and the rear heavy VW is capable of getting around very, very well on snow and ice with a competent driver.
 
90% driver, 5% vehicle, 5% tires.

Knowing how to drive in the snow is huge. However, I would put much higher value on good tires. As I don't have any experience driving my van in the snow (YET!), I can only use my many years of experience I have built up in other vehicles. With the two consistent parts of the equation, (one being me and one being my Subaru), I can tell you that I can drive 3-4 times faster with 10 times the confidence when I have studded snows on vs summer all seasons. Look at all the snow we have on the ground in Boise right now. Tonight I was ripping home to the GF's on un-plowed snowy country roads at 65 mph with studs. If I had my all seasons on, my speed would have been 30-40 at most with cautious braking distances. My feelings are 60% driver, 10% vehicle, and 30% tires. We can argue percentages all day, but my point as it relates to this thread is tires make a yuuuuuuuuuge difference in snow.
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
The theory is sound that you don't want to reduce front wheel weight. That said if you've got, for example, a 7.3 up front then shaving 100 lbs off of the 2700 lbs on the front end won't be significant. I'm sure there is an ideal ratio, but in my case each of the six wheels has about 1450 lbs on it. This means that the rear end has double the weight that's on the front end. So far, I'd have to say it does as well as my 4x4 that has +|- 1150 lbs on each of the four corners... I'm sure I'll find a point where the Ambulance gets left behind, but it's not a 4x4 with perfect weight distribution and aggressive snow tires. 20 years ago, we had the worst snowfall here that'd been seen in a hundred years... on 31x10.50 tires that had 40k miles I only got stuck when the snow was over the top of the hood. Sometimes I was driving in ruts 3' deep... I don't expect the ambulance to be able to go through that... almost no other 4x4 trucks were... it was me, the military, extreme lifted 4x4s, and snowmobiles... :D
 
That is entirely dependent on the particular vehicle and it's current weight distribution, wheelbase, tire and axle configuration, etc. All vehicles have very different handling characteristics that any competent driver can adapt to. A maxed out trailer tounge weight on an otherwise empty standard cab 1/2 ton pickup is not necessarily a disaster waiting to happen. If it was, the ditches would be full of them. I've driven everything from a VW Baja bug to a bobtail tractor on snow and ice and many others have as well without crashing. No, neither has an ideal weight distribution. The former tends to under steer and the later tends to oversteer, but they are both drive able and the rear heavy VW is capable of getting around very, very well on snow and ice with a competent driver.

What's your point?
 

Desert Dan

Explorer
You didn't mention tire size or air pressure?

I would experiment with lower psi and see if that makes a difference.

You could put 4 bags of cement over the rear wheels as well for extra weight??
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
As mentioned previously, having sand comes in handy if you're ever stuck... even if it's only a smaller bucket of it.
 

86cj

Explorer
Hey Guys!

So I have a 05' E-250, with the coming of snow comes the endless battle of having a rear wheel drive machine.. and I am having weight distribution issues. I have snow tires on and the van struggles to get moving from a start, it just spins the tires until its moving. anyone have any suggestions to add weight without it just being sand bags or anything like that as the interior is a camper interior.

Thanks!

There is a balance and sweet spot for vehicle weight, tires ,snow type, and grade etc.. 30yrs ago I bolted bodybuilding weights to the front of an old Jeep CJ because the wide 12.50's would not bite, get creative and tie it down, it sounds like you need at least a couple hundred pounds....

Vans are nose heavy with two people sitting over the front tires and diesels make them even heavier, pushing those non-driven front tires can be alot to ask or the rear tires. To make a 2WD van go in the winter you just need good tread and enough weight over the rear axle. While weight behind the axle can make the steering light, it becomes a problem when the back comes around in a slide, it acts like a counterweight and makes recovery unpredictable or less fun?
 

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