West Texas Wanderings 2022

FAW3

Adventurer
In January 2022 I decided to make a run out to West Texas from my home in Virginia. I wanted to re-visit Big Bend NP and the interesting areas nearby (“nearby” may be a somewhat optimistic term in the context of far west Texas). The total trip lasted 4 weeks. I had a bit over 2 full weeks in West Texas and the other time was basically running to/from home. Not my first rodeo out this way so that should be a hint that this wonderful region offers a wide range of terrain and discovery worth coming back for...this area offers desolate desert terrain, high mountains, clear running rivers, old forts, great food and neat little towns come together and make a great composite destination.

My rig is a '05 Ram 3500 4x4 with a flatbed with a slide in type Four Wheel Hawk with storage boxes on the sides. Good livin' with heat, powered fan air ventilation, hot/cold running water, LED lighting and plenty of secure storage. No real challenges on this trip for the Ram even with encountering some snow and running the more challenging back country roads in BBNP.

My co-pilot was OZY, my now 3 year old Australian Cattle Dog. A side of the road rescue pup he is a great road trip buddy and loves to go camping and to explore new areas. The Ram really spoils him with the 60% rear seat folded down, the flat metal platform, and his comfy dog bed.

Living in Northern Virginia, I ran the interstate out and back to make time & miles...not much to say about that...it's something you do to get somewhere. I gave the cruise control and the satellite radio a real workout on these long highway runs. Amazing to see the variances in diesel fuel prices along the way: highest at $4.15 and lowest was $3.19/per gallon.

Once in the Lone Star State I came out of “overdrive” and focused on secondary roads and enjoyed the scenery and the ride. My main areas of interest were Big Bend National Park and the towns of Alpine, Marfa, Ft. Davis, Junction, Del Rio and Galveston. For the return trip home back east I initially followed the Gulf Coast and enjoyed some nice beach time.

I entered Texas on I-30 at Texarkana and made it past the urban sprawl of Dallas/Ft. Worth and into the rolling hill country a bit west of Mineral Wells. A very enjoyable change of pace and scenery from the interstate. For my first night in Texas I aimed for the Brazos River Authority CG #7 near the dam spillway at Possum Kingdom Lake. A nice easy place to spend a quiet weekday night. Free camping with about 8 sites, a restroom, water source and trash receptacles. I was the only camper here this night.

Back on the road the next day my target was the city of Big Spring. A neat town to drive through with some nice restored buildings and especially a couple of old gas stations really redone well. I had discovered online that there was free camping at the Comanche Trail Park near town and found a nice CG area with level paved sites.

Comanche Trail Park:
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Restored gas station:
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My next stop was Alpine. I planned ahead and had reservations at the Lost Alaskan CG a place my family has visited several times before and we always have enjoyed our stay. I think this is the best commercial CG in the area. Well run, clean, nice facilities, sells propane on site. This was a stop I planned so I could have easy access to the Ace Hardware store and Porter's Grocery in town for any stocking up or parts I might need as well as the campground laundry and to refill my propane. Plenty of restaurants, shops, auto part stores and fuel sources in Alpine.

While staying in Alpine, I went over to Marfa and toured the town. I would have liked to be out there at night for the mysterious “Marfa Lights” (there is a nice viewing stand on RT90 out of town) but my timing just did not support it. A typical small west Texas town with the central courthouse square, a few restored buildings, some nice stores and art gallery's and a small choice of hotels ranging from 4 star fine establishments to something I'd rate as “drive on by no matter what”.

Marfa "Lights" viewing area:
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Next it was time to enjoy Big Bend National Park. It was 5 years ago I last did BBNP and I was really looking forward to this return visit. At BBNP my reservations included a full week of camping and exploring the park and staying in the Chisos Basin Campground, the Cottonwood Campground and several back country sites. I enjoyed staying in both campgrounds and got to meet some nice folks, exchange some stories and information and also see some nice well thought out camping rigs. But it is the back country camping and exploring that grabs me at BBNP. You leave the people and support facilities behind and venture out on marginally improved (some are not maintained/improved) roads for miles and rarely see another vehicle. These back country designated campsites are well marked, well dispersed and provide a level spot and a bear box. The night sky field is awesome and hearing the coyotes sing you to sleep some nights is just wonderful (I'll note an exception from OZY about hearing the coyotes at night). The many hiking trails and items of interest in the park (water springs, old ranch buildings, graves, mines, petroglyphs, the Rio Grande River) just add to the wonder. For the time frame I was there reservations for campgrounds and back country sites were absolutely necessary, especially for Chisos Basin and the popular drive in back country sites.

BBNP sights:
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After BBNP I ran north up to Fort Davis and really enjoyed the town – great Mexican food at Cuvea de Leon and a great sandwich and milkshake at the lunch counter at the drug store. The US Army Fort Davis old cavalry post just north of town is a wonderful historical site and beautifully restored. Located just northwest of town is the Davis Mountain SP where I stayed. Typical state park set up, nice facilities, nice sites, and well managed. A great base of operations for this area which includes the McDonald Observatory and the very scenic drive on Route 118 & 166. This is especially true in the summer where the tree shade and higher altitude here offer some relief from what can be oppressive heat. Once again this is a return visit for me and I highly recommend this State Park.

Fort Davis Courthouse Square; neat main street drug store & Fort Davis parade ground and officer quarters:
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Meandering further north I aimed for the area surrounding the town of Junction. I stayed at the South Llano River SP for a couple of nights. Great campground with nice shade, great sites, and very neat restrooms/showers. Water and electricity at the site. A couple of field areas and the easy river access gave OZY some great time running around and wading. The interest here was the wonderful clear blue running Llano River, the Presidio de San Saba and Fort McKavett. Prior to Texas Independence from Mexico the Mexican government as well as religious missionaries established many settlements throughout what is now Texas. The Alamo is the famous one...but many others are nicely restored and are even more enjoyable to tour and enjoy. The old missions located away from modern urban areas give you a much better feel for living on the frontier back in the day. A real treat of this area is the restored Fort McKavett, a USA cavalry fort that served to protect the wild western frontier settlers from Indians and bandits. This fort during it's day was described as the most beautiful US Army post in the nation. Well off the main tourist routes...this is a site to see. One last thing about Junction: LUM's BBQ...it's really good!

Ft. McKavett typical restored building:
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More to come....
 
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FAW3

Adventurer
I became aware of a weather forecast about a severe cold front blasting down from Canada that was expected to bring snow and ice to the entire area. Up to this point my general aim was to continue in a northward mosey and aim for the Guadalupe Mountains NP and Carlsbad, NM. An aspect of this trip was to avoid "winter"... so I decided to run for cover and turn south based on the harsh weather approaching. I scooted south and had the front edge of this artic blast catch me just south of Alpine. Snow and ice made the sights of the desert very beautiful...but driving was at reduced speed and at times in 4x4 for one morning segment.

I escaped southward and visited the Del Rio/Lake Amistad area. I stayed at both the Governors Landing and San Pedro CG's right at Lake Amistad and both were enjoyable...but San Pedro is quieter without train and traffic noise; Governors has great views, direct water access and potable water spigots. The lake water is clear and cool and OZY had a great time ball chasing, lake wading and introducing himself to armadillos.

Lake Amistad & Ozy:
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Del Rio restored bank:
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As I wandered generally southwest, I found myself enjoying the sights and pace of Route 90. Having enjoyed my visits to Fort Davis and McKavett I decided to swing by Brackettville and check out Fort Clark. Touring the area I found some very interesting and well preserved buildings of the old fort. Notable officers assigned here back in the day include General George Marshall, JEB Stuart and General George Patton. Movies that filmed scenes at the fort include some old westerns: Arrowhead and Two Rode Together. Near the fort the town has a large spring fed swimming pool.

Fort Clark:
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Next area of interest was Magnolia Beach near Port Lavaca on the Gulf coast. Magnolia Beach offers free beachfront camping. I enjoyed two days just enjoying the quiet beach sights and sounds here. There is open beach camping here on hard pack shell/sand along with several sites with sun shelters, trash and a couple of restrooms. There are a couple of similar camping areas around Matagorda Bay. Overall, a very slow paced rural coastal camping retreat.

Magnolia Beach:
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Continuing the beach theme I slid over to the Galveston barrier island and drove north from Surfside Beach on Route 257 to the city of Galveston. I enjoyed looking around and grabbed a nice seafood lunch at Gaidos. For most of the afternoon we just drove and found places to park, play frisbee on the beach and just enjoyed the day not really doing much of anything. In the late afternoon I took the TXDOT free ferry from Galveston Island to Bolivar Peninsula and found a location for free beach camping (note: some sections are no fee, some require a $5.00 permit). Nice wide beach with generally firm sand. The section of beach I was in had a camp set up about every 50 yards or so with some open sections. Plenty of room for the crowd load and reasonable camp privacy. Pass through traffic was very light and only one or two vehicles went by after full dark.

Galveston lunch stop and Bolivar beach camping:
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This was my last stop in Texas and so the next morning I hit I-10 East toward home in Virginia.

Some Loose Ends & Comments.

These next two photographs I think define overlanding to me:

1: This is Bolivar beach showing the early morning dawn glow. The joy of a small footprint capable camper to take you to those special places at special times:
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2: And this last photo shows the fantastic fountain sundae I got at the Ft. Davis Drug Store. This is part of overlanding too, right?
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;)

I'll wanted to focus on the sights and experiences of the trip in this report and not so much any technical rig aspects or general yap-yap but I'll note here a couple of items that may be of community interest:

1: The Hawk is equipped with the FWC 160 watt flat roof mounted solar panel and two AGM batteries. I've found that in some instances a combination of low winter sun angle, overcast days, or being parked in the shade I needed some additional solar collection. IMO the answer is not another roof panel but a supplemental portable solar panel that is easy to store and a suitable extension cord. The FWC was already wired with a solar port so this was a simple plug in and use addition. I sourced from Amazon a 120 watt Bluetti fold-up solar panel (Model #PV120) and a 15' extension cord and used them as needed. I am very pleased with this addition – the ability to place the panel away from the rig when needed to catch the sun was essential in some of my parking spots. The Bluetti panel appears to be well made, is easy to fold up, and stores conveniently with the cords stored in the pocket of the case. The tilt legs allow a nice range of angles for ground placement. Note that you can hang the panel up by the handle but there are no perimeter grommet holes for an easy hanging tie down in windy conditions. This is a great “solar supplement” to the Hawk OEM set up.

2: As I've spent more time using I-Overlander, Campminduim, Freecampsites and other internet resources I've found that some small communities offer free or very low fee overnight camping. I stayed in several such sites during this trip and found them to be in great locations, often convenient to a small town for shopping/dining and a nice variation from the “sardine can” & high cost commercial campground type. I found a range of site types from a basic leveled parking pad and nothing else to sites offering water and electricity and a trash bin. Some were free and some charged from $5 to $10 a night. None were ever “full up” and often I was the only camper for the night. These were all more “restful” than overnighting in a Wal-Mart, a rest area or other “on the sly” quick spot and I now enjoy researching and hunting for these hidden treasures!

A couple of examples:
Brookside, Alabama: a small town West of Birmingham. Here for $10 you get a spot and a very nice park next to a stream and you have water, electric, bathhouse and a dump station available.

Near Graford, Texas: the Brazos River Authority Public Use Area #7 offered free camping with a restroom, water, and trash bin.

BRA #7:
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Big Spring, Texas: The Comanche Trail Park offers several free paved pull off sites and trash receptacles.

Magnolia Beach, Texas: Free camping along a shell beach area fronting on Matagorda Bay. Restrooms, water and trash receptacles.

3: First timer BBNP back country camping/hiking visitor?

Some thoughts: You need to be well prepared and have a reliable rig – it is not unusual to be in the back country and not have another vehicle pass you all day. A standard 4x4 pickup or SUV with good ground clearance in dry weather should be able to handle any section of road within the park with decent aired down road or AT tires. Wet weather is a different world – this mud is about the slickest you will encounter and drys like concrete on your rig. I've done this in a stock 4x4 Tacoma and the Ram. The Ram makes it easier with the bigger 35” tires and greater ground clearance but the stock Tacoma rig got me in and out fine. The map may tell you your campsite is 7 miles in – on a un-maintained road like Old Ore Road or Black Gap your average speed over ground is likely to be 5-10 MPH...so that section could easily take an hour to traverse.

Bring water and have some in a separate container as a reserve. Primary water tank or water carriers can leak and pumps fail. Have a reserve water supply.

Fuel mindset: I generally follow the guideline of when out of urban areas that a 1/4 tank of fuel is EMPTY...time to refuel. Out here that changes to if I'm at half a tank or under, I do not pass a fuel station without topping up. I also carry 5 gallons of reserve diesel fuel.

Walking around & hiking be aware that this is very challenging terrain with a severe climate. Always take a day pack with the essentials, simple first aid supplies and water. Don't count on cell service anywhere in this park. STAY ON TRAILS AND ROADS. The free hand out park map is very useful for general planning but is not a detailed hiking map.
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Back country sites all sound good and I've never had a bad one...but my fav's are the ones along Pine Canyon Road; McKinney Spring and Roy's Peak Vista on Old Ore Road.

4: SMOS & E (Special Mention Overnight Spot & Eats): I booked a night as I headed west at the Little Rock, AR “Downtown Riverside RV Park” basically a parking lot with camping facilities. But it was great to be right next to the river and the town and see the work boats and the evening skyline of Little Rock. I also found some GREAT take out food at the nearby Mr. Cajuns Kitchen. If I ever pass within a 100 miles of LR again...I'm hitting this place for some food without hesitation.

5: Vehicle mod for the mutt: I bought a couple of feet of self-adhesive non-slip tape from a hardware store and applied it to the rear window sill that OZY normally likes to watch/hang out of. The tape protects the sill from nail scratches and gives some good grip for the OZ's paws. Looks fine and if needed I'm betting it can be removed without damage to the plastic sill trim.

Hope you enjoyed this report. Safe travels folks!
 
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FAW3

Adventurer
Based on my #3 comment above...I saw this and thought it would be good to post here.

Vehicle overlanding offers us all so much...it's easy to forget the comfort and ease of movement in your vehicle can be stopped by a faulty vehicle component/computer chip or a rock into your oil pan. In an hour a vehicle can take you from a town with all the essential supplies/services you need to a location where you MUST be totally self-sufficient and prepared for emergencies.

There are great resource articles on this forum on this exact topic. Think about safety and go prepared. I hope this case ends well:

Search Underway for Two Missing Persons
Man and Child from Fort Stockton, TX

Date: February 7, 2022
Contact: Tom VandenBerg, 432-477-1107


BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, TEXAS – The National Park Service (NPS), Big Bend National Park and the Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) El Paso Field Office, Alpine Resident Agency Office, is seeking information from the public about a missing Fort Stockton man and child who were last seen on January 28, 2022.

On January 28, 2022, 49-year-old Hector Flores, Jr. and his 9-year-old daughter, Luna Flores traveled from Fort Stockton, Texas, to Big Bend National Park, in Flores’ blue 2005 Dodge 1500 truck. Flores’ truck was later found abandoned along the northern end of the remote Old Ore Road with many of their personal belongings inside. It is believed that they may be traveling on foot and may not have the proper clothing or equipment to camp inside the park.

Flores has black hair, brown eyes, and is 5’9” in height and approximately 150 pounds. Luna is also a resident of Fort Stockton. She has black hair and brown eyes. They both have family in San Antonio, Texas.

Searchers from the NPS, the NPS Investigative Services Branch, U.S. Border Patrol, U.S. Customs and Border Protection, and the Texas Department of Public Safety are involved in the search. Teams are hiking the area, driving the backcountry roads, and searching from the air using helicopters. Although the whereabouts of Hector Flores and Luna Flores is unknown at this time, investigators believe they may still be in Big Bend National Park.

The public is urged to call the FBI Tipline at 1-800-CALL-FBI (800-225-5324) with any information. Tips can also be submitted online at tips.fbi.gov. Individuals who provide information may remain anonymous. A missing persons investigation is on-going, and no further information is available at this time.

For more information about Big Bend National Park please visit www.nps.gov/bibe

Link: Search Underway for Two Missing Persons - Big Bend National Park (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
 
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That looks like a fun trip! I've been backcountry camping at Big Bend Ranch State Park several times, but the only camping I've done at the NP was at Chisos Basin. Ya'll also picked a good time of year to hit the coast; I used to work in Galveston and the quiet winters were my favorite part of the year. Fewer people for sure, and clearer water as well.

It looks like you chose a good route through TX; you caught most of the varied terrain we have here (the Mesquite Curtain of S. Texas notwithstanding).

The two missing persons were found in Coahuila, btw. Alive and well (though how they unintentionally crossed the RG I have no idea).
 

Bob Boyer

Member
Great trip! Matches ours very closely in the same time frame; we spent Christmas in Dallas with our daughter and son-in-law, then headed out to San Angelo for a night before getting into Terlingua the second night. CGs were pretty much reserved for months back for the week between Christmas and New Years so we set up base in Terlingua and spent several days exploring. Could have used a couple more days there for sure but got great photos of a sunrise at Santa Elena Canyon along with a number of good shots of the Chisos Mountains. Wandered from Terlingua over to Presidio under cloudy and cold skies, then up to Marfa before stopping for several nights at Davis Mountains SP. Again, the holidays got us - no programs at McDonald Observatory over New Years but Ft. Davis and Marfa really interested my wife. Found what had to be my favorite liqour store ever in Marfa - the owner was just incredibly interesting to talk with and her store reflected her life's experiences in the best of ways. And we agree - the milkshakes at the drug store in Ft. Davis are killer. Also got to experience 15 degree weather there, plus the amazing night skies there and in BBNP. Just spectacular.

Our trip took us on over to Carlsbad Caverns NP and up to Roswell. I mean, when you're that far out, might as well get your alien on before heading over to Palo Duro Canyon, which amazed and astounded with its raw beauty, history, and hiking opportunities. If you head out there again, that part of the panhandle is a great stop.

BBNP has changed a bunch since I was out there 12 years ago, and not all in a good way, I'll say. But, as Waylon Jennings sang shortly before he died, "there's places in Texas where a man can go and get lost". BBNP is still one of them, for which I remain grateful. We'll be back again.

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And we agree - the milkshakes at the drug store in Ft. Davis are killer

YES. I have to consciously leave room for one, though; some of them are dang near a meal (not a HEALTHY meal, mind you) by themselves.

I'm still a little bummed when the Limpia Hotel's restaurant changed hands a few (several) years ago. I feel like the food quality isn't quite as good, and the service went downhill.

McDonald Observatory is a cool stop, and that whole area is gorgeous in Spring/early Summer
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AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
This has been a really enjoyable thread, thx for posting!

Your scenic, descriptive pictures and your writing make me feel like I’ve had the shotgun and seat in your vehicle during these travels. For those of us still stuck at home for various reasons, members taking the time to post their adventures like you have really give us armchair explorers a treat!
 
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