What accessories requiring a 12v socket do you actually use?
- Thread starter gatorgrizz27
- Start date
rayra
Expedition Leader
Wouldn't be a Griswald Christmas without it.
I've got Anderson PowerPole plugs, USB plugs, cig lighter plugs on both ends of this power box and now have solar feeding into it too. And a 1000W 120VAC inverter.
And the main supply is a fat 1/0 cable run to the rear from my under-hood Aux battery, planned for a future carrier-mounted winch project that I am finally in the midst of completing. Just a few days ago I got the rear bumper SB175 connector cut into the rear bumper face and this weekend hope to do the same with the front grill plug. ~200A to both bumpers.
I've got Anderson PowerPole plugs, USB plugs, cig lighter plugs on both ends of this power box and now have solar feeding into it too. And a 1000W 120VAC inverter.
And the main supply is a fat 1/0 cable run to the rear from my under-hood Aux battery, planned for a future carrier-mounted winch project that I am finally in the midst of completing. Just a few days ago I got the rear bumper SB175 connector cut into the rear bumper face and this weekend hope to do the same with the front grill plug. ~200A to both bumpers.
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gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
Thanks for the replies, I am in fact adding an auxiliary fuse block and suitable wiring, all properly fused. Realizing that due to the threaded ring on the back, the only spot I could replace a faulty USB outlet without tearing the dash or other panels apart is the back of the center console, I may just leave them alone and find a spot to add in another that’s run off the auxiliary fuse block instead.
I am trying to avoid modifying any of the OEM wiring with the exception of tapping my auxiliary driving light switch into the headlight high beam circuit, I don’t consider unplugging a factory 12v and plugging in a USB instead a big deal though.
I am trying to avoid modifying any of the OEM wiring with the exception of tapping my auxiliary driving light switch into the headlight high beam circuit, I don’t consider unplugging a factory 12v and plugging in a USB instead a big deal though.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
I prefer to use the USB plugs that go in to the 12v Cigar socket that way I don't have to risk messing with factory wiring, It's a lot easier to replace a $5.00 USB plug than it is to pull out Dash panels or repair burnt out wiring.
My 2 power packs have 4 USB sockets between the 2 of them so I don't see the need to add anymore.
My 2 power packs have 4 USB sockets between the 2 of them so I don't see the need to add anymore.
gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
They are an option, and I have one now. In the past though I’ve had problems with them losing contact. Plug phone in, throw it in the door pocket, somewhere along the 2.5 hr drive it quits charging, get to trailhead, grab phone, it’s 14%.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
Yeah I have done that, that's why I like plugging in to the PLB because while it is running the fridge and charging the phone I can keep it charged by the 12v socket.
JaSAn
Grumpy Old Man
12V cigar lighter socket stuff used in the camper:
- WeBoost cell booster
- 12V to 14V boost transformer for MacBook
- O2Cool portable fan
- Handheld car vacuum
- Small 12V to 110V inverter
rayra
Expedition Leader
another good rationale for this method is that the USB inverters are basically a parasitic load with any constant-hot circuit. With a plug-in USB in a Cig or 'PowerPort' as GM terms similar receptacles, you can unplug it when not needed. I keep a zippered pouch in my console with a variety of stuff like that and many cables. micro USB, Lightning etc., A cig socket charging cable for a handheld ham radio.
I initially added all sorts of USB outlets, but the parasitic drain was quickly too much. So I revised things. And still intend altering the power source for my Sub's PowerPorts - dash, inside console, rear of console and rear cargo area - to all be powered from my Aux battery, which is topped every day by my rooftop solar. One weekend I left a peltier six-pack cooler plugged in and running, for three days and the Start batter was stone dead before I noticed. Had to self-jump from my Aux., formed the idea to re-source the outlets then, still haven't done it yet.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
My MPV/Camper has 1 Cig socket hidden under a panel above the Instrument Cluster, 1 In the front of the Centre Consul and one in the rear of the Centre Consul for the 2nd row seat passengers, Yet where the 3rd seats were and in the Load bay their are None, Crazy thing is It has about 8 Cup Holders and possibly 2 other places that could be used for cups/Cans,
So now I have just bought 2 ARB surface mounted 2 Pin Screw In Sockets to go in the back Plus 3 spare Screw In Fridge leads, The leads will come in handy but I am not sure about tapping in to the Vehicles wiring, ??
So now I have just bought 2 ARB surface mounted 2 Pin Screw In Sockets to go in the back Plus 3 spare Screw In Fridge leads, The leads will come in handy but I am not sure about tapping in to the Vehicles wiring, ??
gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
I have a couple of them in my trailer, they are really nice. You can also use those ARB pods for other 1 1/8” accessories like the mentioned double USB ports, voltmeter,etc.
IMO, if you’re looking to use one of the sockets you’re adding INSTEAD of one of the factory sockets (meaning not both at the same time), you’ll be fine tapping into the front socket and extending the wiring with 16-18 ga, assuming you’re using low amp draw accessories, < 5 amps. If you’re planning to use them IN ADDITION TO the factory ones, or for higher draw stuff, it’s best to wire in an accessory fuse panel and power them from that.
When you’re talking about the ARB fridge leads, I’m not sure if you mean just using the wiring they provide with the inline fuse, or if you’re talking about adding their screw in fridge plugs also. If the former, it’s a waste of money to me if you’re just powering low amp 12V sockets, as they use 10 gauge wire. If you’re using the fridge plug, the larger wiring is to prevent a voltage drop which is necessary to run a fridge properly.
However, you typically don’t want to run a fridge straight off your primary starting battery, as it can draw it down to far, it’s better to use a house battery or some type of automatic disconnect solenoid as mentioned in my original post.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
I bought 3 of the ARB Leads with the Screw In Plugs as spares and Also I needed one to run my Dometic Fridge because it came with just a standard lead with a push In plug and I also have a Dometic Cooler that came with the standard plug as well, Although it stayed in place while I was travelling I had to keep checking it, But when I was home the cable shut the fridge down 3 times in 24 hours,
In order to make sure they were safe to use I got a multimeter and the Dometic lead and checked to see which contact hole on the fridge end of the lead was the Centre Pin on the Cigar plug end and then I did the same with the ARB Lead and they both matched so I know it was safe to use, Then it just made sense to get a couple of the surface sockets at the same time, Although I run my fridges direct from a pair of Dometic PLB-40's, Each PLB 40 has a standard 12v socket and The Screw In 2 Pin 12v Socket as per ARB/Engel fridges and it has 2 USB sockets,
I am in 2 minds as to replace or add more sockets to the Vehicle wiring, Because with the PLB 40's they are only connected to the Vehicle when they are charging via the Cigar socket and my 240v system is a stand alone setup as well and the Vehicles system is not connected to the other two systems so if something goes wrong then neither one will effect the other.
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Todd n Natalie
OverCamper
That was my thinking as well.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
That was my thinking as well.
Well that is your safest and most reliable way of doing it
My main objective is to enjoy my Vehicle for as long as I can and the only way to do that is by not thinking I know better than Ford who invested millions of dollars in designing it to get it right,
If I go adding a heap of stuff to the existing electronic system then that's asking for trouble, And If when we go adding all these mods thinking we are smarter than the company who made these vehicles The why haven't they offered any us a Job ??
My Vehicles 12v system is untouched, My 240v System comes in to the rear of the Vehicle via a Plug Socket in to the power lead in to it's own Power board complete with an RCD protected set of sockets which can be powered by a Gas powered generator or Shore Power Hook Up,
My 12v Power supply is provided by 2 Dometic Lithium powered PLB 40's giving me 2 X 512w or 40Ah = 80Ah of power, These can be charged either by the Vehicles 12v Cigar Socket or by Solar or by Hook Up power via the PLB's AC adapter or by plugging the AC adapter in to the Gas powered Generator, doing it this way has other benefits like not Voiding the vehicles factory warranty along with making it easy to trace any problems having 3 separate systems but most of all it has reliability,
EDIT, Sorry I forgot, The removable Camper conversion I bought which can be removed within minutes Also came with a small Lithium power station that has USB sockets and a 12v Cigar socket and 2 sockets to power the supplied LED lights that has it's own small Solar panel as well as it can be charged via a 100/240v supply Giving me a total of 4 separate power systems, Plus I also have 3 X 115Ah Deep cycle Batteries in a Box giving me 5 power systems plus the Gas Generator and 100/240v Shore Power Hook Up, In battery power alone I have over 5376w of power not to mention the 1100w of solar if needed,
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IAm_Not_Lost
Member
Only the 12v phone charger. Everything else is usually a USB plug or I just need a regular AC three prong. Sometimes an Anderson plug.
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