What size steel square tube for trailer build

Grasslakeron

Explorer
Hi all,

What size steel square tube would you use in a trailer build. Here are the parameters:

5x9, has to hold a maximum of 3500 lbs including the weight of the trailer.

Thanks for the insight
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
I used 2 x 4" 11ga rectangular tube (HREW) for the main frame of mine. It's approximately the same size as yours, & doesn't have sides or a top (basically it's a flat bed utility trailer with no side rails).
 

Woods

Explorer
This is a tough question to answer, without knowing more about the design.

If you're going to full 3,500 lbs. you may consider C-Channel. It's much better for rust prevention than square tubing.
 

Aspen Trails Trailers

Supporting Sponsor
What will the trailer be used for? Will it have upper walls or just flat bed. That is quite a bit of weight, too small for a car.

Hard to get that much weight with camping equipment.

I have built 20 foot car haulers with 2X4 120 wall, 2x3 main back bone and 1.5x1.5 cross members.

Overkill is okay, but at some point it turns into being just too much.

If what you are carrying, will cause the trailer to twist upon loading, say a bobcat, I would stay way from the channel. Never really have liked it for a frame. Box will retain its shape, spring back to an extent, channel, bend it and it stays.

Good luck with your build.

Bob

www.aspenXtrails.com

Home of the strongest, most trailworthy
Off Road Tear Drop made.

New videos up on website.
 
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Grasslakeron

Explorer
Those are good questions so here is my thoughts on them:

1). It has to be able to carry my camping stuff. No I don't carry that much.

2) walled sides and a removable top

3) wide enough to load my tractor. It weighs 1200 lbs plus the deck or blade with is another 300.

4) face cord of dried oak. 2000 - 2500 lbs.

See 3500 pounds is the max for my jeep LJ.
 

Woods

Explorer
This is getting into some pretty sophisticated design requirements. I'd limit this to two different options.

1. Find a trailer that does what you're describing and copy the design.

2. Have a trailer builder build it.

Maybe Aspen will chime in again. He certainly knows more about this type of designs than most people on this board.



Those are good questions so here is my thoughts on them:

1). It has to be able to carry my camping stuff. No I don't carry that much.

2) walled sides and a removable top

3) wide enough to load my tractor. It weighs 1200 lbs plus the deck or blade with is another 300.

4) face cord of dried oak. 2000 - 2500 lbs.

See 3500 pounds is the max for my jeep LJ.
 

Grasslakeron

Explorer
Ok, novice here so bear with me. Box design, 3x2 sides and front/back bars. 3x2 center cross members every 2 feet. 3500 lb axle with all the trimmings. 3/16 steel plate top or 2x12 wood. 15 inch tires, cross braced tongue. Sides 1x1 steel and the same with the top rails.
 

Aspen Trails Trailers

Supporting Sponsor
Thanks for the kind words Woods.

I will help if I can no question.

I think 2x4 120 wall would be more than adequate. The tractor coming on board is where the twist would occur. The side walls will increase the strength of the frame quite a bit. I would use a 2.5X2.5 240 wall, actually reciver material and run it to just in front of the axle. You can go to my builds and in the first few posts you can see a trianguleated frame. It really is a pretty standard frame, but I have never had a problem doing one. These show the triangle under the main frame or you can integrate it with the floor of the upper box. Be sure to make a 90 degree turn at the back so the side wall ties into the lower main frame. It makes the trailer much stronger. You can give me a call if you want.

Bob

www.aspenXtrails.com

Home of the strongest, most trailworthy
Off Road Tear Drop made

New videos on the web site.
Not much of the trailer, but some beautiful areas.
 

rb70383

Observer
....I would use a 2.5X2.5 240 wall, actually reciver material and run it to just in front of the axle. You can go to my builds and in the first few posts you can see a trianguleated frame......... Be sure to make a 90 degree turn at the back so the side wall ties into the lower main frame. It makes the trailer much stronger. You can give me a call if you want.

Bob

www.aspenXtrails.com

Home of the strongest, most trailworthy
Off Road Tear Drop made

New videos on the web site.
Not much of the trailer, but some beautiful areas.


You mean .250 wall right? Also cant picture what you mean about the 90 degree angle.


I am also thinking of a similar sized trailer. 5x8 for me. Going to look like a cargo trailer so I can also use it to haul the motorcycle. Remember on an enclosed trailer the walls and roof system add alot to the strength. Why a vasic utility trailer has a 1foot rail around the sides. It helps in the strength as well, if you notice a similar sized open deck car hauler normally has a slightly heavy frame for that reason.
 

Aspen Trails Trailers

Supporting Sponsor
At the back of the trailer, at then end of the upward side, make a 90 degree turn and make a 6-12 inch wall. Then you can attach, a door or make a slide in ramp. It just ties the sides to the main frame. Just do not run the wall to the end of the trailer and stop as it will be easy to bend the wall away from the trailer.

Side wall
|
|

with 90
|
|_

Bob

Hope tha makes sense, my artistic description and drawing leave a little to the imagination. lol
 

jwiereng

Active member
trailer frame jpeg.jpg

I would love some people to give their opinion on this frame design.

Tongue and A frame are 2x4 and all the rest is 2 x 2. Rear bumper is 2x4.

I have drawn that the joists are spaced on 16" centers. Would 24" be sufficient?

Between the wheels a cabin will be built, inspired by the Aspen Trails Off Road Teardrops.
 
Last edited:

JeepSWAG

New member
I'd eliminate about some of those cross supports. From front to back, I'd get rid of #'s 3, 5 and 8. But I don't know exactly what you're doing with it. If you're putting plywood over a metal floor then mounting a bed on it, the support requirements are completely different than if you're doing the same, but hauling motorcycles etc. Is the load against the floor disbursed or loading up specific areas?



View attachment 196083

I would love some people to give their opinion on this frame design.

Tongue and A frame are 2x4 and all the rest is 2 x 2. Rear bumper is 2x4.

I have drawn that the joists are spaced on 16" centers. Would 24" be sufficient?

Between the wheels a cabin will be built, inspired by the Aspen Trails Off Road Teardrops.
 

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