What's your preferred way for adding relays & wiring?

[Clintnz]

Fwiw,
If one is willing to get a correct crimper and terminals, just make up your own sockets. Clean, no splicing pigtails & so on.
Put the individual relays wherever best suited.

That's what I did when the relays I had screwed on all around the engine bay got out of control. I got the relay mounting blocks that clip together, so gang up as many as you need, I used fused relays. Now they all sit in a tidy row next to the factory accessory outlet/ fuse box. Cheap, simple & keeps joins & connectors to a minimum. Add a couple of spare sockets on the end or at least leave a little extra wire length on the last socket so you can add more later if required.

Having the uninsulated terminal crimp tool & a bunch of terminals is really useful for me as the 'cruiser uses them everywhere.

Cheers
Clint

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

You want simple and clean-
Assuming your new lighting is LED you dont need any relays.
Using Switches breakers simplify your wiring even more with no need for a fuse panel.
One of many examples of switch breakers - https://www.delcity.net/store/Switch-Breakers/p_806587.h_806588

 

[jeegro]

You want simple and clean-
Assuming your new lighting is LED you dont need any relays.
Using Switches breakers simplify your wiring even more with no need for a fuse panel.
One of many examples of switch breakers - https://www.delcity.net/store/Switch-Breakers/p_806587.h_806588

Depending on where switches are located in relation to the fuse box / light, yeah sometimes that is simpler. I am doing that for some rear lights because I have a BlueSea 360 panel w/ 10A toggle switch push button reset circuit breakers.


However for the dash switches, it's cleaner IMO to use relays so you if you want to swap anything around, it's much easier to re-wire. Also, who knows what my OEM switches are rated for.

And i have a few cases, like rear work lights / reverse lights, where I want them auto-triggered or manually switched on

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Depending on where switches are located in relation to the fuse box / light, yeah sometimes that is simpler. I am doing that for some rear lights because I have a BlueSea 360 panel w/ 10A toggle switch push button reset circuit breakers.


However for the dash switches, it's cleaner IMO to use relays so you if you want to swap anything around, it's much easier to re-wire. Also, who knows what my OEM switches are rated for.

And i have a few cases, like rear work lights / reverse lights, where I want them auto-triggered or manually switched on

Do your research because if simple and clean are truly your priorities you can do everything noted above without relays.

The OEM switches I get from Toyota has the rating stamped on the side. I use a factory illuminated fog light switch (rated at 21A) and relabel it for various uses.

KISS and set it up right and forget about it is how I wire.

 

[jeegro]

Do your research because if simple and clean are truly your priorities you can do everything noted above without relays.

The OEM switches I get from Toyota has the rating stamped on the side. I use a factory illuminated fog light switch (rated at 21A) and relabel it for various uses.

KISS and set it up right and forget about it is how I wire.

Well for my reverse light example, my simple rule is to not put any loads on the factory wiring system that are not factory items. So yes I could have a switch only to run rear work lamps for manual or automatic mode, but that would put the load on the factory wiring in automatic mode. Can the wiring handle it? Probably... but that's a slippery slope. Relay is the way to go.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Well for my reverse light example, my simple rule is to not put any loads on the factory wiring system that are not factory items. So yes I could have a switch only to run rear work lamps for manual or automatic mode, but that would put the load on the factory wiring in automatic mode. Can the wiring handle it? Probably... but that's a slippery slope. Relay is the way to go.

Best of luck on your quest

 

[Clintnz]

Well for my reverse light example, my simple rule is to not put any loads on the factory wiring system that are not factory items. So yes I could have a switch only to run rear work lamps for manual or automatic mode, but that would put the load on the factory wiring in automatic mode. Can the wiring handle it? Probably... but that's a slippery slope. Relay is the way to go.

But if you drop the load on the factory wiring by switching to LED bulbs you may find you can add a couple of moderate sized LED work lamps to the reverse light circuit & still have about the same load. Easy to do the numbers. My rear work/camp/reverse light has a switch to power it off either the reverse light circuit or the always hot dome light circuit, LEDs all through & no problems.

Checking the fuse size of a circuit & the wattage of what it powers already, before tapping into it will also give you an idea of how much capacity it has for extra load, but don't load it right up to that number, 75% of it should be the limit.

Cheers
Clint

 

[ckkone]

I've been looking into this to keep clutter clean and while the SPODs, ARB Linx and Trigger Wireless Controller are great they are all expensive and difficult to find faults if the lights don't turn on. I plan on going with this waterproof fuse relay box and Toyota switches.

https://www.facebook.com/Waterproof-Fuse-Relay-Box-1391112501215493/

 

[paranoid56]

i use the same one as above. super nice setup. I also like using relays for all lighting as it allows you to have low amperage wires going into the cab (also much smaller wires) so a bundle of 5 22ga wires vs 5 14ga wires is huge. makes for a cleaner install.