Where to buy a square mog? Advice?

[akdak]

Iain, I agree fully with you. My U2150 has fast axles and Claas overdrive, but there is no way for me to keep up with the cars. I have never intended that that when going for fast axles and overdrive. I use the overdrive to keep the rev down.

For example when driving on the highways in Europe, most commercial trucks are limited to 90 km/h and I use the fast axles and the overdrive to be able to cruise comfortable with the speed of the trucks. I can go faster and overtake the majority of the trucks ... but at the same time it is not safe to overtake every truck that is going 90 km/h as highways can be quite busy and truck can form long columns, so I prefer to more or less keep at about the speed of commercial trucks and overtake only when necessary. There is no point in competing with cars ... it's neither possible nor safe either.

 

[skippythedog]

Here's your Mog in BC.....in Seattle's Craigslist.......http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5788044651.html

 

[mogwildRW1]

 

[evilfij]

I think there is a big difference between having enough power/speed to overtake, and wanting to constantly run at high speed to keep up with the cars.

If you are looking for a tipper, then an Ag Spec Mog is the way to go, only problem is they always have the "standard" diff ratio, so limited to around 80kph. Mine was like that, in original spec it was limited to 75kph, and would just about be able to do it with the 125hp motor. The good thing is most Ag Spec Mogs come with working gears and full hydraulics.

I want to repeat how much I appreciate the comments, they are really helping me refine my thinking on this. To the first point above, I 100% agree. I travel most on 76, 81, 90, 476 interstates which are crowded and where people drive 75+. Trucks drive 65mph so if I can stay with them I am happy and safe. I rarely go west (done it once cross country -- see doing 100mph+ in a Land Rover 110). To the second point, the advantages to me of the AG spec with hydraulics and working gears and the short bed are why I like them and the standard axles are actually a plus (as I am thinking about it now) because I am not paying for fast axles that I would have removed for AV super fast ring and pinion.

 

[unirover]

I've driven bog standard U1300L's (53 mph tops) halfway across the US, and thousands of KM's on the autobahn (traffic is often much faster than anywhere in the USA) and I've never found it to be a safety issue. I just drove a U1300L turbo with fast axles but standard tires (63 mph) 4000 miles across the USA, no issue there either. Most highways in the USA that have minimum speeds set it at 45 mph which most SBU's can handle pretty easily. However a Unimog is a farm implement, that's the whole point. If one feels unsafe driving a vehicle on the highway at 55mph, then perhaps another vehicle would be more suitable. If you want to get there in a hurry, go for the Ford or Toyota or even a Defender. If you want to get to where others can't go, get the Unimog.

 

[evilfij]

I have a Toyota, three Land Rovers (59 88", NAS D90 and NAS 110), but no Ford (I have a Chevy) and if I want to get somewhere in a hurry I don't take any of them, I take the 400hp Jag :victory: and if I want to do so inexpensively and in a reasonably hurry I take the VW TDI.

To be clear, it is not about getting someplace in a hurry, it is about keeping up with truck traffic safely on the interstate. Most all secondary roads in the northeast are not suitable for long distance travel as you are stopping at lights constantly which makes any trip over 90min or so painful. If I was buying this to drive around the country, it would be an entirely different story.

And thank you for the CDL advice, I looked and I think I need one but it is not hard to get an exempt CDL (not for hire).

 

[unirover]

If you have your heart set on a Unimog and you plan to drive it relatively fast, then a short wheelbase is probably not the best option. The shorter wheelbase Unimogs are a more busy at speed, they bounce around a bit more, and are more sensitive to road irregularities. They also can get a bit cagey when the roads are slippery. You can certainly still drive them at speed and they are not terrible, but I would hate to have to slam on the brakes on a wet road in a U1200 going 70 mph. You will also find ballast will help a lot so the bed maybe prove a necessity. Ag spec Unimogs actually have rear 3pt hitches on them and are very hard to find. More likely is a work or communal spec vehicle which will generally have hydraulics and working gears but most of those are shot by the time they are sold. Clean ones without major rust or excessive hours come at a big premium. Your best bet is probably a bog standard U1300L and then turbo charge the engine and put in the AV gears. Hydraulic is easy to add and if you are not really going off road with it, 1st gear will be plenty low enough to get off the line in a hurry. With 365/80 tires and 200hp +/- you will be able to cruise 70 -75 mph although IMHO that is way more dangerous and stressful then driving at 55mph, but hey that's just me.

 

[evilfij]

Excellent advice. No need for me to go 75mph except in some sort of emergency.

 

[unirover]

In the USA, you do not need a CDL for an SBU Unimog unless you are using it commercially or you have a combined gross weight of 26,001 lbs or more. Any requirements for air braked vehicles do not apply to a Unimog. It has hydraulic brakes. Air over hydraulic definitely requires the air but technically the brakes are hydraulic. Going to your local DMV is just going to open a can of worms...

 

[erwin z]

well evilfij, confused yet ?

Good thing you didn't ask for tough advice. You would have to sign up for a Chinese math course.

 

[mogwildRW1]

In the USA, you do not need a CDL for an SBU Unimog unless you are using it commercially or you have a combined gross weight of 26,001 lbs or more. Any requirements for air braked vehicles do not apply to a Unimog. It has hydraulic brakes. Air over hydraulic definitely requires the air but technically the brakes are hydraulic. Going to your local DMV is just going to open a can of worms...

The brakes on an SBU are air over hydraulic (as you mentioned). No air. No brakes (well, except when the parking brake clamps on due to a drop in air pressure)

The round cab unimogs are air ASSIST, if you lose air, you still have SOME brakes (you have to stand on the brake pedal, trust me) but in a square cab Unimog except for the early U1000's that ran a cable from the firewall to the master, no air, no brakes. The brake pedal is no way physically connected to the master, it only modulates the valve at the firewall. I know it's "technically" different from NA systems in that the system is air driven, and hydraulically actuated from the master past, but having your air endorsement is good to have as they cover some things you should be checking on any air equipped vehicle anyway. The SBU Unimogs are highly dependent on a reliable air system, and taking the course will help an owner understand the in's and out's. Systems reliant on air include:
Brakes (that one's...important)
High/low shift (your stuck in 1-4 or 5-8 otherwise, though the manual shows how to hammer the arm in case of failure)
4wd
lockers
Trailer brakes (not really applicable here, more in the European setting)
CTIS if equipped

Here you can see the firewall brake valve and the air related plumbing of the system:


And here's the master that sits back in front of the rear wheel

 

[proper4wd]

Arnie's Mog is up for sale, sounds exactly like what you're looking for!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...8d5cf01f:g:Ua8AAOSwmfhX3Fsk&item=371738865695

 

[dwh]

some people will tell you you don't need a cdl unless you weigh over 26000 lbs, however, i think the rule is, if you are not driving for hire, you don't need one... and since you wont look like a semi truck, no one will bother you...

Depends.

CDL and Class are separate. You can have a Class B or Class A license and still not have a CDL.

A truck registered as motorhome doesn't need a CDL as long as it's not articulated and is 45' or less.

But it still might require an air brakes endorsement.

A truck regged non commercial, might still require a higher class non commercial license due to weight.

 

[dwh]

And you can have a Class C commercial license.

I had a recruiter call me a few months ago. The job she was trying to fill was delivery driver for an auto paint distributor. All they needed for their truck was Class C, but it had to be commercial and have the hazmat endorsement.

 

[Vegard_S]

In Norway you need a light truck/CDL /class C1 (for light trucks),class D1 (for light busses), driver license to be able to drive all vehicles with registered total weight above 3500kg. and less than 7500kg. If the truck or buss exceedes 7500kg in total weight you need to have heavy truck driver licence (class C og D) This is applicable no matter if it is a truck/lorry or RV/camper. Here it is the weight of the vehicle that decides what type of driving licence you need, and it it totaly independendt of what purpose the vehicle has/what it will be used for. If you are driving a vehicle heavier than 3500kg for work purposes you also need an additional 2 week "commercial driver's course", which really isn't about the driving itself, but more about theory about special rules and regulations professional drivers need to follow. To top that of yo also need anadditional driverlicence if you are intending to tow any trailer/caravan behind your truck/buss/rv which has allowable total weight above 750kg.

The total cost of heavy truck driver licence + heavy trailer driving license + "commercial driver's course" will easily set you back 120 000 NOK / 14 500 USD / 13 000EUR!:Wow1: