where_the_heffalump_roams 917 AF

Heffalump, did you even look at the link I sent?
It explains exactly what it is, and even has all the parts numbers including the O-ring?
I did, thank you!
I even found a vendor that sells them in Europe for under 20 Euros. But I'm looking for closer options right now. I've emailed some mog vendors to see if anyone has these within the USA. I'm currently in Bellingham, WA. My goal is to cross into Canada tomorrow. It's possible Hans might have them as well.
 

Christian

Adventurer
I did, thank you!
I even found a vendor that sells them in Europe for under 20 Euros. But I'm looking for closer options right now. I've emailed some mog vendors to see if anyone has these within the USA. I'm currently in Bellingham, WA. My goal is to cross into Canada tomorrow. It's possible Hans might have them as well.
I just read through your entire thread in one go, instead of tidbits over the years.

One thing stands out:
You and your ability to not get fazed by problems, difficulties, shops with less than stellar service, and even problems that are outside your current knowledge. You seem to tackle every obstacle calmly and just pressing on.
Those are traits to strive for!


Thanks for posting all of it.
 
Thanks for that man. I do think my background, how I grew up, my work life, and experiences give me some perspectives on life. I can honestly say I feel very fortunate to have experienced what I have. My worse case scenarios are still better than what many face in the world.

I got the brake shoes glued/riveted on in Seattle, WA. Dropped them off at https://brakeandclutchsupply.com/ (I read Vermonster had used them) one morning and they were ready the next. While waiting, I met movingmountainsv8: https://www.instagram.com/movingmountainsv8/ a really nice dutch family that is currently touring the Americas.

They told me about NWMogFest that was happening that weekend. I was a bit torn as I was really having loads of fun shredding some new to me trails in Bellingham, WA and wanted to keep on riding. But with all that is happening with the heffalump, I figured networking was needed. After getting my newly lined brake shoes back I ended up riding Bellingham for a couple of days before shooting down to Oregon for the festival. I didn't make any mechanical contacts that I had hoped for, but it was really fun meeting the family like group of people there.IMG_0990.jpegIMG_0991.jpegIMG_0996.jpegIMG_0998.jpegIMG_1010.jpegIMG_1031.jpegIMG_1032.jpegIMG_1042.jpeg

Afterwards, Tobi and I started heading north again. We pulled over at a smaller truck shop ran by a bunch of guys from India. I thought it was funny how it has worked out for me. With the exception of Sacramento Springs, John's Spring and Suspension (Reno, NV, and Reno Brake, the vast majority of mechanical support received has been through Latin and Middle Eastern Mechanics. The shoes were installed and off I went. The rear drums always felt a tad warm but not hot when driving. This was checked a few times to afterwards as I wondered if dragging brakes was causing my lower speeds. But they stayed cool for a few hundred miles after. We stopped for a few days outside of Camas, WA where I did some more biking and rode some really fun trails with some of the locals. Thrillium was super fun! Very classic PNW style of riding. Some rock gardens, root sections, burns, and booters along a trail that begs to be pinned.

We than returned to Galbraith Mountain where I hoped to ride again but the mountain was shut down for a day. We made our way north in to B.C. Canada and stopped by Han's shop in Langley. We talked about the truck problems and he provided the oil filter/gasket that I believe is leaking. He told me that was the primary oil filter and it should be cleaned with every oil change... Joe, the prior owner provided a lot of documents including a manual that I've looked over, but for whatever reason, I've overlooked this It's a bit embarrassing as I've only been servicing the secondary oil filter on the passenger side of the block.
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After driving about 100 km up to the hills outside of Squamish B.C. I've noted the rear drums were actually quite hot after highway speeds. I do know that the last shop had to dial back the adjusters to the max to get the new drums to clear. So there is no more adjustment from the wedge actuators. Does anyone know if there are other points of adjustment that can be made to bring the shoes in and stop them from dragging?
 
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whomisi

Member
Awesome update, thanks for sharing the adventures.

It might be worth checking the air pressure on both the spring release and brake apply side of the rear. I know Jon had issues with his fronts slowly applying pressure because of a leaky valve slowly applying front brakes.

Don't forget to chock the wheels!
 
Awesome update, thanks for sharing the adventures.

It might be worth checking the air pressure on both the spring release and brake apply side of the rear. I know Jon had issues with his fronts slowly applying pressure because of a leaky valve slowly applying front brakes.

Don't forget to chock the wheels!

I am assuming you are are taking about the brake canisters?
That's a good idea. I've go through some quick pressure checks once it's aired up, but if it's leaking back there, that won't show up on the gauges and allow the wedge pistons to be pushed out a bit. But if it's happening to both sides, I'd guess it would be happening upstream from the canisters.
 
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whomisi

Member
I am assuming our are taking about the brake canisters?
That's a good idea. I've go through some quick pressure checks once it's aired up, but if it's leaking back there, that won't show up on the gauges and allow the wedge pistons to be pushed out a bit. But if it's happening to both sides, I'd guess it would be happening upstream from the canisters.
You can (at least on mine) check pressure with a schrader valve for both service brake and the park brake air supplies right on top of the diff. Picture below, under a little black cap.

The park brake release lines are the ones that go to both sides, and you'd be looking for the same pressure as the tanks and making sure that doesn't slowly drop over time. That would allow the springs to start applying pressure.

The other two should be zero and stay zero unless you press the pedal.

Then you'll know if it's a mechanical issue with the brakes themselves, or an air issue.

Random thoughts, maybe this has been going on a while which is why you needed new shoes? Maybe it's not the brakes and the heat is coming from somewhere else? Check the diff itself?

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You can (at least on mine) check pressure with a schrader valve for both service brake and the park brake air supplies right on top of the diff. Picture below, under a little black cap.

I'll try to get under the truck while it's aired up this week and see if I can find spot to check pressures. I'm assuming most leaks could also be found with a spray bottle and by sound as well.

The rear brakes/drums were replaced as they wear was very uneven and the drums showed evidence of being overheated. Blue discoloration and small cracks were found when I lost ability to set the truck in park awhile back. Source ended up being the wedge that was later replaced.
 

whomisi

Member
I'll try to get under the truck while it's aired up this week and see if I can find spot to check pressures. I'm assuming most leaks could also be found with a spray bottle and by sound as well.

The rear brakes/drums were replaced as they wear was very uneven and the drums showed evidence of being overheated. Blue discoloration and small cracks were found when I lost ability to set the truck in park awhile back. Source ended up being the wedge that was later replaced.
Gotcha, I'll keep an eye on mine to avoid that expense!
I'm thinking more of an internal valve leak as well, like a leak that slowly puts pressure into the service hoses without you knowing. If that makes sense.
If the shoes are rubbing slightly I guess they'll clearance themselves eventually....
 
Gotcha, I'll keep an eye on mine to avoid that expense!
I'm thinking more of an internal valve leak as well, like a leak that slowly puts pressure into the service hoses without you knowing. If that makes sense.
If the shoes are rubbing slightly I guess they'll clearance themselves eventually....

So I've been picking my very small mechanical brain.
When trying to track down the loss of speed, I was continuously feeling all my drums as had known brake problems. Both rear dreams would feel slightly warm to touch after highway drives. But nothing hot or remotely uncomfortable. Yesterday, they were very hot after driving 90 km. I did have a parking brake valve go bad (the lever on the dash) that was replaced by a DT unit which is now doing the same thing (air is discharged until enough pressure is lost and the parking brake engages. I've been looking for a Wabco unit to replace it. I got under the truck this morning after coffee. With a charged air system, I listened for an air leak and sprayed the lines/joints with soapy water but didn't find anything.

I've gleamed over the fuel lines and don't see anything wet, though that doesn't mean air isn't getting it. The truck does smoke more that it should, so maybe there is a faulty injector or air in the lines? Smoking could also be helped by the factory flame start which has never worked for me or the prior owner.

I pulled the oil filter cover off and was confused for a few seconds at what I didn't find. Stuck my finger in the oily mess and tried to pull the old filter out but there wasn't a filter in there! Hahahaha! So in a way, I'm glad there was a leak here, it pushed me to get on in there. The old o-ring was flattened out and super stiff. Makes we wonder how old it is.
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I was felt foolish for not knowing about that filter but I'm actually glad there was a leak at the housing. If that didn't happen, I would have never considered this a service item. I've skimmed over the manual over a dozen times since and still don't see it listed. IMG_1150.jpeg
This is what I've been going off of.

Anyhoo. Got the filter in and I'll score another to have on hand. I haven't driven the truck, but I let it idle up to 80C and didnt' see any oil coming out yet. I'll have find a truck wash later, hose off the engine, and keep tabs on ******** to look for additional oil leaks.
I suspect my loss of speed is multi-factorial. Perhaps a combination of dragging brakes, fueling, and air. I know Hans is a bit expensive but he is the only MB truck mechanic that has been responsive and helpful in N. America. I did reach out to traveling couple who just passed through after doing the Dempster. Han's serviced their truck and helped with a fueling issue. They had nothing but good things to say about his work. I am trying to coordinate something this year where Han's can go through the truck and sort out known problems and also find ******** that I'm not aware of. Strongly considering a modern turbo with faster spooling to help with the hills but also as preventative maintenance as this maybe the original turbo to the engine.
Yesterday we arrived in Squamish and I planned to mountain bike. But the region has become more of a tourist hotspot since I was last here and boon docking is no longer legal in/around town. So we did a 1 hour drive out of town and are posted up at a dead end of a service road with nice views. It's a bit of a drive so I'll post up here today. I'm taking the afternoon off for some adulting on my computer. I'll try to do some biking later. IMG_1144.jpeg
Here is Tobi at Han's shop.
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I was really having a lot of fun in BC in the Squamish area. The mountain bike scene has really blown up since I was last there. The trail conditions and weather were perfect. We met a lot to really cool travelers from Europe, USA, and a few locals and shared some trailhead drinks.

Unfortunately I'm still dripping a bit of oil though it is a lot less since swapping out the oil filter and 0-ring on the driver's side. Power loss has continued to progress. One day, after coming out of a rough rode where we had boondocked for a bit, I heard some loud metallic chatter and thought maybe a dust guard or something got bent on rocks. Inspection of the undercarriage didn't reveal anything loose underneath. Later, I did found a loose heat shield around the turbo and thought it may have been that. It seemed to resolve, but later became intermittent. I'm now wondering if the sound is actually the bearings from the turbo and I no longer hear it spooling like before. I did pull the pipping from the cold side and there is shaft play. The week before, I did order a plethora of parts including a new turbo. I believe this one is original to the chassis and has never been serviced. I don't know what the life span for these are and nobody that I've asked seems to know. but turbos on most modern cars and light trucks last about 80K-120K miles without service. So my thought was replacing would be preventative maintenance.

A slow drive was made to Washington state. I found it odd that the batteries were pretty slow to charge during the drive. I later found this after noting my voltage was dropping to 11v.
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This is the fuse at the battery terminal. After pulling it, voltage returned, I'm wondering if it was building up resistance/heat? A new one was ordered and should arrive today. The Heffalump has been parked for the past week. I was hoping to have the ordered parts already but they are still in transit with an ETA sometime at the end of the month. The past days have been tacking other projects. Wired in a system from triomount to convert the starlink to 12v but that hasn't been working. Still trying to figure out why while getting support from the vendor. The grey tanks often freeze up in the winter, so I finally wired in some heaters for them that I had purchased at the time I bought the heffalump. This week, I'm hoping to pull the 2 massive LPG tanks so that additional storage space can be made. Likely to hold winter chain/socks and recovery gear.


The turbo that was ordered is a Garret, I'm hoping that it is a direct bolt on option that won't require custom pipping or changes to fueling. The plan is to pull the turbo after the parts arrive. If the bearings are shot, I'l have to do some engine flushing to try to remove bearing material and hope there isn't internal damage. I also ordered new injectors from Bosch as well. A plethora of other parts were also ordered, new bushings, various sensors, harnesses, etc... The heffalump is a bit overdue for some deep mechanical love. There is a good chance the engine will need to be pulled out and gone through when replacing seals. .But that is something I'd outsource, likely Hans in BC Canada. He will be expensive. but I have had no luck with support from any American MB truck vendor or shop.

We are now posted up at a friend's house who just returned from a Moto trek in Canada. The heffalump wont' be driven until the power loss issue is sorted out. I'm hoping the parts will arrive and I can do what work I can before flying down to Gautemala next month for a women's health project. All the NGO and humanitarian groups that I work with have also been denied access to the Gaza Strip. So I started bidding on some contracts to work in Washington to get me through the winter and to help pay for parts/repairs.
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Updates.
There was some delay in getting the new turbo from Europe. In that time, a call was received for urgent medical support at the Line Fire in San Bernardino County in California. Call recieved as at 18:00 PM and it was asked if I could fly out ASAP and be there that night. That wasn't possible but heffalump projects were quickly wrapped up and put on pause. A 5 hour round trip was made and my pup was left with friends hours before flying out.

A week was spent at the command center where I worked with and met some really rad people.

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I would have stayed longer but I was already committed to a return trip to Guatemala. There we spent time reinforcing diagnostic and laboratory skills so that 2 small, NGO rural clinics could better serve their communities. An ER nurse/former lab tech and lab tech/aspiring PA-C joined me. It was their first travel/NGO experience and they had a really good time. I was able to visit old friends and that was defiantly enjoyable. But the real treat was seeing this women's health initiative gaining tracking after a few years of program development.

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Since the turbo wouldn't be delivered until I was in Guatemala, other projects were tackled. The old propane system was removed and the wiring under the truck was cleaned up. This was very satisfying. Previously PVC tubing was used for conduit. This was replaced with wire loom and a LOT of unused wiring was removed, some of the existing wiring was labeled. This will really simply future diagnostics as needed. The space where the propane tanks is temporally being sealed up with wood and will be used for storing snow chains, shovels, etc. Some of the frame work that held the propane tanks, grey water tank, and generator is rotting and will need to be replaced by a solid fabricator. For now Por-15 was applied after some clean up and the wood was sealed and then hit with 3 coats of truck bed coating. I'm hoping that will get me through winter.



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When I returned from Gautemala, I came back to this chore list...

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The old turbo was removed with mild/moderate difficulty. And my dumb ass didn't think to have new hardware and gaskets on hand. One of the turbo mount studs snapped off after barely applying any torque to it. One nut had to be cut off with a chisel/hammer. The others were released by applying PB blaster, heat, and the 2 nut method.

I had to remove the manifold after using 3 different easy outs, the last one snapped off :(. After trying several machine shops, a place was found that drilled out broken easy-out and stuff within a couple of hours of dropping off the manifold. New hardware was obtained after making several runs into town. Several trips were needed as I didn't initially notice the extracted hardware was a mix of various sized bolts. New oil turbo line gaskets were made. I ended up using a two gaskets per side and sandwiched them using small touch of high temp gasket maker But everything was eventually mounted and it was fired up. No oil leaks noted afterwards so far.


The truck does seem to have improved acceleration but the right rear brake is still dragging. Before the trip, I had adjusted the brake so there was no dragging while free spinning it on jack stands. I did secure a new brake canister. A shop on Monday is going to look at it and see if they can resolve the dragging brake issue. Hans up in Canada also has some time to go over the truck in a couple of weeks, but I need to get this dragging brake issue resolved first. It seems to be getting worse and the heat is now transferring to the wheel after only a few minutes of driving


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