WhereThehellisMurph, 3 Wheels, 7 Continents, 7 Years

[WheresMurph]

Hi Jim and thanks for stopping over to the blog, helps get the numbers up for me.
Well, the shock issue is just dogging me mainly because the outfit weighs so much and most motorcycle rear shocks don't need to be made for that type of load. I'm probably in the 650-700 KG range, most MC shocks only need to be able to support 300kg+ max. So that's the reason it's so hard to get a MC rear shock thats strong enough. The new Ohlins shock I got just collapsed again here in Hammerdal, you'll be reading about it in the next post.

Regards,

Murph.

 

[WheresMurph]

"STOCKHOLM to NORDKAPP in NOVEMBER" PT II

"BREAKFAST at BIRGERS".".

Ljusdal, Sweden. Nov 2012.



Wow, what a week this has been. After leaving the comfort of a warm apartment in Stockholm, camping in -5 gets you right back to reality.
After a cold nights sleep in Ljusdal in the tent the next morning turned out to be pretty nice really. I was a little nervous that I wasn't supposed to be camping where I was, but here in Sweden you can camp pretty much anywhere legally, unless of course it's in someones front garden. You are allowed to camp on their land so long as you respect it and are not invading their rights or privacy.

I met Margareta out walking with her dog Ludde as I was having coffee, so after a chat about how I manage for cooking and food on the road, she invited me back to her house for breakfast.

Birger and Margerata, Ljusdal, Sweden. Nov 2012.

Margareta was born in this 400 yr old farmhouse that's been in the family for thirteen generations and she and Birger now lwad a simple and happy life here after "giving away" all their property to their kids, since they figured out that they don't need it all anymore. Smart, very smart.

Birger's had this lifelong obsession with James Dean, and all around the house were some great photos of him in his youth keeping the James Dean spirit alive and well in Sweden, this one on his 1960 BSA Gold Star.​

The rest of the pictures and post are HERE
on the blog, I appreciate you stopping by to take a look.


Murph.​

 

[WheresMurph]

"GETTING SPIKED in STROMSUND SWEDEN".

E45 north of HAMMERDAL, SWEDEN.
​

2 days in an emotional dungeon in Hammerdal and feeling a little bit unnerved, I hit the road on the third morning, determined to push on in a northerly direction.
I'm starting to find that these moments, these states of mind that I'm having that seem to be steering or directing me in a certain direction at times, upon reflection, are necessary in many ways, but they just don't feel like it when I'm right in the middle of them and in a bit of a dark cave in my head.
But the less I worry and try to control situations or feelings that, at the end of the day I really have no control over, the more I just let these moments happen and let them take their own natural course, the more they always seem to work out just fine. And sometimes even better than fine, with a much better outcome than I could have hoped for even if I tried.

As I rode north away from Hammerdal, the frozen lakes over the bridge were a pretty accurate indicator of how I was feeling. Cold and barren.
I get to think a lot on the bike on those long stretches of road, one or two cars passing by maybe, but then my thoughts always get interrupted by nature and, being the photographer and documentarian that I am, I snap out of it and look for a good spot to stop and park the bike and try not to get frostbite as I get off some shots. I still can't photograph with gloves on. I guess I better learn.
I looked back on the last 2 days in Hammerdal and the feelings that had kept me at the empty campground for an extra day and probably contributed to me arriving in Stromsund at the particular time that I did. Or maybe I was supposed to, as Stromsund and my experiences with the people I have met there were in stark contrast to my experience in Hammerdal. A complete 180.

Stromsund, Sweden, circa 1932.

​

I had only ridden about 10 kms out of Hammerdal when I knew that I wasn't going to get very much further on the tires I had if conditions got any worse. I mean, I just had absolutely ZERO grip or traction, none.
And since I was riding north to the top of Norway in December, yes, conditions WERE going to get worse, much worse. The -5° temperatures and ice on the roads down here are nothing compared to what lay ahead in wait for me.
Traction, how to get it, was my main problem, so at the next big town I decided to stop and see about getting my tires spiked. They already had the holes in them for spikes so I figured it wasn't going to be much of a problem.
Just get the gun and pop 'em in, right?.

Wrong.


Was I able to get my tires spiked in Stromsund?. Well, from the post title you would imagine this to be the case, no?.
You can find out HERE

Murph.​

 

[Jim K in PA]

Great stuff Murph. I caught "the rest of the story" on your blog. It really is somewhat mystical how when you finally let things go, they fall into place in the way you need them to. Some of us are lucky enough to recognize this, and it happens repeatedly in life. Some may only see that happen once or twice. The truly unfortunate (unbending) never do. Keep the faith.

 

[WheresMurph]

Hey Jim and Hi Jean, or maybe it Jean reading and Jim in the background?.

Anyway yes, letting go. Why is it so hard to do?. Why do we always want to control things so much when in reality our perceived "Control" over
them has little or no outcome on the final result as it ends up finding it's own level. It just makes us feel good I guess that if it weren't for us it wouldn't have happened. Yea, right.

Thanks for going over to the blog, I appreciate the traffic.

Murph.

 

[Jim K in PA]

Hey Jim and Hi Jean, or maybe it Jean reading and Jim in the background?.

Murph.

LOL - it's just Jim. Jean reads over my shoulder from time to time.

 

[WheresMurph]

"STILL IN STROMSUND"..........

Stromsund Bridge, Stromsund, Sweden. Nov 2012.

Stromsund Campground Cabins, Stromsund, Sweden. Nov 2012.
​

My first night in Stromsund was spent in a shower.
Well, not all night in the shower, but it was my first hot shower in 4 or 5 days, so I relished every last hot water droplet that came out of that shower head and probably stayed under the water for a full hour. I loved every single one of those steamy little water molecules, and told them so too. I have an abundance of love for all you hot water droplets out there.
After packing up the next morning and heading down to the STROMSUND TOURISM INFO and getting the cabin practically given to me for free by Hakan who works there, my next order of business was to try to find some internet.
The day I arrived in Stromsund and after getting my tires spiked by Niklas at Ollanders Tires, he mentioned that the supermarket down the street, ICA, had internet in the cafe that was on the ground floor level adjacent to the supermarket. Well, it had internet, but not anymore.
But apparently, Mother Karma wasn't done with me yet.
I had a couple of food items to get at the supermarket, so when I got to the register I asked the girl about the internet situation in the supermarket. "There is none anymore" she said. "There used to be, but we have a new owner and it hasn't been connected up again".
So I said "Do you know of anywhere in town that I could get some internet".
My register girl Mel got on the phone to her boss in the office downstairs to find out.
It must have been the Luck 'O the Irish or maybe something much more mystical that seems to be guiding the Karma cloud in my direction these days, but what are the odds of meeting a girl at a cash register all the way up in the middle of Sweden that had lived in Ireland for 8 years?. However Mel explained my situation to her boss downstairs it must have struck a chord somewhere. He told Mel to tell me that if it was an emergency that I could come down and use the internet in his office.
Well, for me it was. I had to Skype call my Mum in Boulder CO since I hadn't spoken with her in nearly a week. Since I'm an only child and the apple of me Mothers eye (she told me I was) I know she worries about me, so a Skype phone call to her as often as I can doesn't cost me much but I know means the world to her.

Down in the office of ICA Supermarket Thomas, the owner of this and one other ICA Supermarket in town, was helping me log on to the his internet. I got logged on and while I was getting connected to me Mum on Skype I tried to explain to Thomas who I was and what I am doing, so I pointed to the Wherethehellismurph.com sticker on the back cover of the laptop and said "That's my website if you want to jump on and take a look at some of my pictures". So while I was chatting with Mum he did. I guess he liked what he read and saw on my blog because after I hung up with Mum I thanked him for being so hospitable to me and he then said that if I needed to use the internet the next day that I could come down to his office and work there.
Well, that was unexpected. I did have an article to get ready for the blog and probably 5 or 600 pictures to go through and edit so having the ability to have a desk in a warm office with a bathroom right by was complete luxury for me.
Yes thanks Thomas, I will gladly accept your offer.
Even the staff lunchroom was right next door where there was a coffee machine with an endless supply of java.

And, the two guys I had met at the campground the night before showed up just as I was leaving the cabin that morning and said that if I was going to stay in Stromsund for a few more days I could use their cabin for the weekend while they were gone. Could it get any better?.

Apparently it could, but I'm jumping the gun again.

There's also a Helmet review in this post. My beloved Shark helmet on the left just wasn't up to the -15° temperatures that I'm encountering on my trek north to Nordkapp and I just couldn't keep the visor from fogging, no matter how much RainX I slathered on, so the new BRP Snowmobile helmet on the right with the "Double Glazed" visor is the new replacement​

Plus we also met a new friend that I badly wanted to take with me in the sidecar for those really cold -25° nights, but his owner was kind of attached to him and wouldn't give him up.


Again, I would greatly appreciate you heading over to my blog to see the rest of the post which can be foundHERE


Murph.​

 

[WheresMurph]

"Stockholm to Nordkapp"......... in December.

I crossed over the border from Sweden into Finland last Thursday, Dec 13th 2012 after riding up from Pajala in Sweden where I stayed at the Nordmannen MC clubhouse the night before.

Before I left Sweden I got to spend a little time and give a little back to 3 people in Stromsund, 2 children and 1 adult.

Ante, a 5 yr old boy who is battling Leukemia got to get a ride in the RideAwayCancer sidecar as well as his Dads girlfriend and chaperone, Ann Cathrin. And in an ironic twist of fate, Ann Cathrin is also battling cancer herself, skin cancer, and as we talked it was obvious that she is very worried about her upcoming results in January. Thoughts and prayers are with you both.

It was a pretty cold morning, probably -10 or -12 with a wind chill of -17, but little Ante and AnnCathrine braved the elements and came out for a ride in the RideAwayCancer sidecar nontheless.

I'm on my last days camping out I think also, it's getting really cold on my body lying on the ground, even with the Thermarest air mattress. Although now that I think of it I never upgraded the mattress to winter one, so it's no surprise that it's cold. The reindeer skin I got as gift is the best, no wonder the Sami use Reindeer so much for clothing, footwear and headwear.it's insulation qualities are second to none.

These are next on the list to buy up here from the Sami, they're called SKALLER, boots made of Caribou skin and incredibly warm and snow resistant. Gotta pay Ellen a visit in the upcoming week. While in Norway, right?.

Please take the time and visit my blog to read the rest of the post HERE

Thanks so much,


Murph.

 

[Tjaank]

I just came across your blog. Awesome travel and great photos. One thing is for sure, Murhp....... u are definetely in the wrong place this time of the year! I lived above the Artic Circle for more than twenty years so I know well the the places you are visiting. You have lots of couragage venturing into Lapland this time of the year on a motorcycle. Oh.. since you are that far north you may want to visit the home of Santa, Rovaniemi in Finnland http://www.santaclausvillage.info
I can't wait to ready your next update.
Merry Christmas and safe travels... don't get run over by a reindeer
Greetings from Santiago, Chile.

 

[WheresMurph]

Tjaank, thanks so much, but I feel like I'm in the RIGHT place I always preferred the cold to traveling in the heat, and being on a sidecar outfit makes it a lot easier in the ice and snow. Still cold but beautiful up here this time of year.

Santiago is a little warmer right now, eh?.

Merry Christmas and happy new year,

Murph.

 

[WheresMurph]

MERRY CHRISTMAS from ALTA, NORWAY. Dec 2012.

​

Alta Norway is where I'll be spending Christmas this year. It's been a long haul up here to the top of Norway and I still haven't made it to Nordkapp, but that's only 240k from here in Alta. It's only taken me 3 months to make it to Alta, not bad really given that I get distracted easily. I'm surprised I'm not in Australia. I've stayed pretty focused all things considered.
In the beginning I was hell bent on only reaching my particular destination for the day/ week/ month, but the trip and life made me slow down a little. Now when I get to a destination isn't as important as what happens and who I meet along the way.

AltaFjord, Alta, Norway. Dec 20th, 2012.

It never really gets fully light here in the day now, a misnomer to call it daylight. But I wanted to come up here to see for myself. I was told that there was going to be very little light. I was told it would be about 3 hours up in Nordkapp, if that. But the light has a magical quality to it. It's like the sun is passing through warm theatrical gels on the way down here.

More pictures and the rest of the post can be read HERE on the blog.

Merry Christmas from Norway.

Murph.

 

[Jim K in PA]

Merry Christmas from Pennsylvania, Murph.

 

[WheresMurph]

I would like to wish all my friends and followers alike a very Happy New Year for 2013, and a very special 'Thank You' from NORDVÅGEN in Nordkapp Commune here in Norway to all who helped to get me up here, from a great outfit built by LBS Sidecars to all the MC clubs that have helped me along my journey with a place to stay, a place to work on the bike, and their friendship.
I wouldn't be up here in Nordkapp without the assistance of everyone that has been involved in my journey in any way. As small as it may have seemed to you it means a lot to me, so I want to thank you all from the bottom of my heart.
A very special thank you Erich Wunderlich and all the staff at
WUNDERLICH GERMANY for all their continued help and support on my trip so far.

Happy New Year.

Murph.​

 

[WheresMurph]

"NEW YEARS in NORDKAPP".....

I really didn't plan it this way you know, timing it so as I ended up at Nordkapp right on New Years Eve like this. But my arrival here at this juncture in my trip does seem kind of fitting for me, since Nordkapp is as far North as a person can travel in Europe in or on a motorized vehicle, on roads anyway, and was a 'Most Northerly Point' destination for me on this part of my trip itinerary.
That is until I researched a little more and found out that Nordkapp is not really the 'Most Northerly Point' of mainland Europe at all, not by any definition.
But I digress.

Yep, I overshot the entrance to a gas stop, my first real 'getting stuck' in the snow up here in Norway and had to be pulled out by an understanding motorist. I guess they're used to it, I didn't even have to ask him. As soon as he saw me get off the bike with that "Damn I'm stuck" look, he was already unraveling the tow strap. I probably could have dug my way out of it, it doesn't look so bad. But it was.

More pictures and more of the post HERE on the blog. I appreciate you stopping by...........


Murph.

 

[WheresMurph]

"MAGERØYA, NORWAY"

Top of the World. The northernmost part of Europe. Right?.

Well hold on, not so fast.
That's not technically correct since Nordkapp is on an Island, the island of MAGERØYA in Norway. It's not part of mainland Europe, but for this post, it's the most northerly point I have ridden to on my trip so far. And that's good enough for me...........at least for the moment anyway.
And, due to it being the most northerly point in Europe that you can drive or ride to, I kind of, well no, I did intentionally set myself up in advance of actually making it up there, albeit in being originally planned for arrival in October and not December or January because I knew that (a.)it was probably going to be a cold and difficult ride, and (b.)it wouldn't allow me to back out if the going got tough since I already advertised that I was going to do it. I would have to see it through no matter what.

I know myself quite a bit by now, and I was a little nervous about the whole 'unknown' factor of it all, so my reasoning was that if I announced my future travel plans as an article on my blog, then I would have no other alternative or choice but to follow through with those travel plans, lest I lose face with myself and also my readers and followers of my trip here on my blog.
Self doubt and insecurities abound sometimes, and I'm certainly not immune to them, especially since choosing to travel alone like I do. I don't have or use an iPod while riding to take my mind off things, so I'm alone in my helmet with my own thoughts all the time with nothing but myself to paint the picture.
It's like I'm on ALL the time.
For the most part, I like it that way. I've made friends with myself after drinking myself broke and come to understand a lot of what's going on inside of my head. And, I also get to feel, 100%, the whole meaning, IMO, of what being a motorcyclist is all about since I have no other distractions other than whats happening as I ride, how cold it is, how hard it's snowing, how my right foot is starting to get a little numb, how I really need to pee but at the same time I just want to keep the momentum going and finish the last 60 km to my destination. How amazingly beautiful it to actually BE up here in Sweden and Norway, riding on an awesome 2 WD sidecar outfit and be able to see what I'm seeing, how much money I have left and how far I have to actually travel on it, how much I love winter and how much I really don't like riding in the heat very much at all.
All sorts of thoughts go through my head as I ride, I talk to myself a lot on my rides.

For more of this post and another 35 or pictures on my "Road to Nordkapp" in January, you can read it HERE

Murph.​