Which one?
- Thread starter Jaredlloydphoto
- Start date
Victory_Overland
Explorer
That's a good find man. Nice work!
JackW
Explorer
We towed a 22' enclosed trailer with a 1956 Porsche coupe inside to Florida and back with my 2007 LR3 a couple of years ago for the Amelia Island Concours. Other than the shockingly low mileage (under 10 mpg) it handled the combined roughly 5500 pound weight of trailer and car really well. Of course if we had kept the speed down around 60 it would have gotten significantly better fuel mileage. These are great tow vehicles.
I just towed a friend of mine's 23' wooden boat and trailer to Beaufort , SC with my Discovery 5 diesel - combined weight about 3000 lbs - and got 23.5 mpg doing it. The diesel has over 450 ft-lbs of torque - it hardly felt like I was towing anything.
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Jaredlloydphoto
New member
Update: so the rear differential was changed today, along with diff and transfercase fluids. Noise still persists.
When the truck has been sitting and driveline is cooled down, it’s barely noticeable. Once it has been driven, it really starts to get loud.
Noise begins at around 5mph. It does not change with acceleration or deceleration. When I drop below a couple miles an hour, it goes away. Noise does not occur in reverse. It does not change with steering. The noise is a whirring sound of metal on metal. It’s not a whine.
I gave up on the mechanics at the dealership. They are throwing parts at it now, and the hotel bills are adding up. I picked up the LR3 on Saturday. It’s Monday night and still in hotels. I’m driving back to Bozeman tomorrow and will have a mechanic up there look at this.
Any thoughts?
Wheel bearings were supposedly checked.
Brakes were replaced.
Rear diff was making noises and was very noticeable with stethoscope and so this was assumed to be the problem and swapped out.
Diff fluids were changed, as well as t-case. Presumably, the mechanic would have noticed if metal shavings were in the food.
When the truck has been sitting and driveline is cooled down, it’s barely noticeable. Once it has been driven, it really starts to get loud.
Noise begins at around 5mph. It does not change with acceleration or deceleration. When I drop below a couple miles an hour, it goes away. Noise does not occur in reverse. It does not change with steering. The noise is a whirring sound of metal on metal. It’s not a whine.
I gave up on the mechanics at the dealership. They are throwing parts at it now, and the hotel bills are adding up. I picked up the LR3 on Saturday. It’s Monday night and still in hotels. I’m driving back to Bozeman tomorrow and will have a mechanic up there look at this.
Any thoughts?
Wheel bearings were supposedly checked.
Brakes were replaced.
Rear diff was making noises and was very noticeable with stethoscope and so this was assumed to be the problem and swapped out.
Diff fluids were changed, as well as t-case. Presumably, the mechanic would have noticed if metal shavings were in the food.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
hmmmmmmm, sorry for the misfortune! At this point, I would hate to ask this but are you sure they swapped the differential out? I don't remember what you mentioned about the dealer but are they reputable? Is the noise resonating from the exhaust? Is the noise for sure coming from the rear of the truck?
If its a brand new diff, then you can eliminate that and good score as you are now on a zero mile diff! At this point, I would be pulling wheel bearings out and checking axles and driveshafts. I'd hate to throw more parts at it but honestly, we are all sitting miles away troubleshooting without any idea of where to start with and what the mechanics did or did not do.
When my rear wheel bearing went (almost 300 miles after I bought it) it sounded like nails on a chalkboard, sand-paper on sand-paper, and all those other cool noises we hate. Jacking and moving the wheel did not give me 100% obvious indications but when I took it out, it sounded like a baby rattle. Mine only made noise when it was warm and when it wanted to.
Maybe take a video and post it.......about all we can help with from here!
If its a brand new diff, then you can eliminate that and good score as you are now on a zero mile diff! At this point, I would be pulling wheel bearings out and checking axles and driveshafts. I'd hate to throw more parts at it but honestly, we are all sitting miles away troubleshooting without any idea of where to start with and what the mechanics did or did not do.
When my rear wheel bearing went (almost 300 miles after I bought it) it sounded like nails on a chalkboard, sand-paper on sand-paper, and all those other cool noises we hate. Jacking and moving the wheel did not give me 100% obvious indications but when I took it out, it sounded like a baby rattle. Mine only made noise when it was warm and when it wanted to.
Maybe take a video and post it.......about all we can help with from here!
Jaredlloydphoto
New member
Now it’s getting silly. Made it back to Bozeman. Took it to the local Indy Land Rover shop. After all that, the mechanic in Denver busted the seal on the differential AND my rear bushing while trying to get the axel in place. Result? I now have a leaking new rear diff and broken (not worn) bushing.
The mechanic here said the noise is most likely a bearing in drive shaft.
Time before they can get to working on truck? 3 weeks!
The mechanic here said the noise is most likely a bearing in drive shaft.
Time before they can get to working on truck? 3 weeks!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Yeah man, that is garbage! Maybe you can get the mechanic to contact Denver dude and see if you can verify some damage at install and see if they will make it right on your cost you spent with them??!!??!!
At this point, I would check everything that rotates from the transfer case back to the lug nuts. No telling what else is damaged or overlooked!
At this point, I would check everything that rotates from the transfer case back to the lug nuts. No telling what else is damaged or overlooked!
Jaredlloydphoto
New member
Yes this is now officially ridiculous. Supposedly the work done by Denver mechanic is warrantied. If they live up to their word, the diff and bushing should be covered by them. The dealer should cover the bearing as part of the power train warranty.
Ugh. We shall see. I have the whole month of July off and was planning on doing a couple different trips with this hahaha
Ugh. We shall see. I have the whole month of July off and was planning on doing a couple different trips with this hahaha