Which Upper Control Arms ?

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
There aren't a ton of choices but there still are a few. Going with 315's and will need the extra room.

Light Racing $435
Camburg $528
Total Chaos $725
All Pro $499

or just replace my upper BJ and UCA bushings and get Spider Trax wheel spacers $320 + shipping.

This is kind of a need to make a choice quickly.

Before you say 315's why etc, consider the 315's are almost new and are $500, I NEED new tires wihtin the next 5K. I'm running 295 Nitto TG's $1250 out the door. Add the other front end components I'm already replacing and the difference to run 315's with new UCA's is $200 vs stock and Brand New 295's. I'm already geared to 4.88 so thats a non issue, gas mileage and weight should be darn close considering there is only a 1.22" diameter (0.61" added height) and 0.59" in width which is 0.29" on each side.
 

1911

Expedition Leader
I've installed most all of those on FJC's, FWIW. Light Racing is excellent value for the money; I've had good luck with them and I run them on my personal truck. Over 100,000 miles on them and they're still in good shape. I like the Camburgs also. If you're going to spend the money on TC, I would look a look at Icon also.
 

CYi5

Explorer
What kind of lift are you running up front again? If you have an extended coilover version like DR/Icon or Camburg i'd go with a uniball option (TC/Camburg UCA) to get the extra travel available. Any other setup i'd go with the light racing for its low maintenance design using the stock ball joint. You'll have less noise with the LR setup as well.
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
Let me see up front are the SS Adjustable (5 setting) Bilstein 5100's with Tundra coils with a 1/2" top out spacer. Experience coil and UCA bind on some trails at full droop. Value and low maintenance is key, I searched but could not find where you get replacement BJ's for the LR arms.

Aaron
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
I'm just not sure, offroading isn't as frequent as in the past and the stock arms held up fine. No high speeds, and no huge or LT shocks for the time being. I would like something better than stock though stock is good. I found the LR UCA's through fat bobs for $379 + shipping. I'm just curious where you get a replacement BJ if needed. I imagine the instructions are somewhat straightforward.

I'm not running over 3" in the front, though I would enjoy 3.25-3.5", just saying.

A
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
The ICON fall into the same boat as TC and Camburg, hadn't even considered them but they are also a great product.
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
The arms take a direct replacement BJ, so you can get one at any auto-parts store. I think the reason the discriptions say OE"style", is to not imply it being anoriginal Toyota joint.

I'm not so sure, but everyone I've talked to says they are usually replaced under warranty. If you look at the design of them it does't look like a typical BJ with its upper mount.

A
 

opie

Explorer
The arms take a direct replacement BJ, so you can get one at any auto-parts store. I think the reason the discriptions say OE"style", is to not imply it being anoriginal Toyota joint.

The SPC/Light Racing Arms do not take an OE ball joint. It is a proprietary part from SPC. The ball and socket are OE style, but the way it mounts only works with the SPC arms.

P1020591.jpg

P1020587.jpg
 

Mr. King

Undecided
Ball Joints or Uniballs

This is what I think it really boils down to.

The ball joint is going to give a longer overall service life but at the cost of down travel. A uniball (essentially a Heim joint) is going to offer more travel but is subject to contamination and higher wear because of the open design.

As always, YMMV. There is always someone out there that has just the opposite results on their truck.

I personally run Light Racing UCA (ball joints) with about 2.5" of effective lift. I also research stuff to death.

Mr. King
 

opie

Explorer
King, That is where I am at as well. I just removed the top plate spacer on mine because the arms freed up some lift and the front was sitting a wee bit higher than the rear.
 

CYi5

Explorer
Show me the 315's :). If I were to do everything over again on another taco/runner, i'd go with an OME/Light Racing setup.
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
295's with no tread
P5235128.jpg

315 with full tread but not going to stay (long story see below)
IMG_0387.jpg

LR UCA's
P5235129.jpg

P5235130.jpg


Well the 315's were short lived, I bought them used but with low miles and they cleaned up beautifully. The tires had been sitting but didn't look to have been affected. I then had them installed and the balance wasn't great, had them balanced again and the balance was still bad, 3rd times the charm... and a phone call stating one of the tires was starting to seperate in the tread and the other may soon follow. Dang I though I just covered almost 500 miles with those I'm glad nothing happened. But on the 156 mile return trip home with crappy unbalanced tires my alternator decided to give out (32 miles from the parents house) and keep me from putting any more miles on the tires (Divine intervention? you be the judge). I called around and found a set of 295's (previous size for 2 sets totalling just over 100K) $986 installed through a Goodyear Dealer. The Nitto TG's are my go to favorite and work in 95% of my driving (Interco Super Swampers make up the other 5% if I had to choose) this is my 7th set, 3rd on the 4Runner.

Notes on the 315's other than bad balance, the ride height increased about 1/2", the 4.88's weren't as happy pushing these compared to the 295's. There was obvious tire rub at full lock on the road, offroad would increase this exponentially, I could feel the added weight while braking even with my upgraded Tundra 231mm brakes. I liked them but didn't feel they were a great fit for the 4Runner. A 35x10.50 could be fun...... but I would have to step the brakes down to accomidate a 15" rim...NOPE


Aaron
A
 
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