Which Upper Control Arms ?

[Mr. King]

Show me the 315's . If I were to do everything over again on another taco/runner, i'd go with an OME/Light Racing setup.

That is exactly what I run except I roll 265 70-17s on an '11 Tacoma. Stock gears and I still get 17mpg... Barely. The wheel wells are nicely filled without rubbing.

I don't even want to think about having to cut and grind parts or 10 mpg!

Mr. King

 

[CYi5]

Thanks for the honest opinion on the 35's. Most guys who throw them on avoid talking about the negatives all together. I just placed my order for 4.88's yesterday, so hopefully your input will keep me at 33's. It does look like you have a good amount of lift going on, is that due to the 1" or 1.5" BL?

 

[xcmountain80]

That is exactly what I run except I roll 265 70-17s on an '11 Tacoma. Stock gears and I still get 17mpg... Barely. The wheel wells are nicely filled without rubbing.

I don't even want to think about having to cut and grind parts or 10 mpg!

Mr. King

Wow, we've got an 06 double cab 4wd that runs 295's and stock gears and hits 19mpg every time. Wonder what going on there?

A


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[xcmountain80]

Thanks for the honest opinion on the 35's. Most guys who throw them on avoid talking about the negatives all together. I just placed my order for 4.88's yesterday, so hopefully your input will keep me at 33's. It does look like you have a good amount of lift going on, is that due to the 1" or 1.5" BL?

I have a 1"bl and can't go back as I had the ARB brackets made to account for the 1" bl, (short of ordering new brackets $325). I swapped the crumbling 3/8" top out spacer for a 1/2" as that was the only option. I think I killed some down travel and by not going uniballs style UCA's killed it some more. The 295 Nittos give me 33.3" diameter and that's seems perfect. I'd like to eventually get nice front coil overs with an appropriate rear.


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[AxleIke]

This is good info. Are you liking the LR arms, despite the tire issues? For whatever reason, my tires are rubbing on my UCAs (265/75 MT/R's). Not much, but that kind of stuff annoys me. I was running spacers but didn't like the way they looked, so now I'm looking into UCA's.

 

[1stDeuce]

The LR UCA's do NOT use a stock balljoint. In the event you actually wear one out, it would most likely be replaced under warranty, or you would need to get one from Specialty Products Company (Light Racing). After several years of having marginal sealing around the bottom of the boot, they redesigned it to seal very nicely. I doubt you'll ever be able wear them out at this point, as the ball is HUGE. An added bonus is that the LR arm can adjust caster, so you can use the lower control arm eccentrics to roll the lower balljoint forward all the way, (Like to have high caster) then set caster and camber with the LR upper arm. This usually gains 1/2 - 3/4" of clearance at the back of the wheel opening, where there is a somewhat un-trimmable body mount.

I'm not poo-pooing the other arms, they're all great products, but IMO, anything with an unsealed uniball is better suited to race vehicles or very dry environments. The LR arm is a put-it-on-and-forget-about-it arm.
When we do alignments on toyotas with larger than stock tires, we usually run them at the high end of the caster spec, and the high end of toe. (Max toe in) They seem to drive well that way, and wear tires properly.

Chris

 

[xcmountain80]

Yes I like the simplicity of design, well perhaps well thought and executed design is better because these arms are very interesting. It's much like a what stock part could be if it wanted to. They don't scream hey look at me which I like and like I said just seem like a great design. I had a pinky finger of clearance between LR UCA and 315 which is the same as stock UCA and 295. I now have 2nd row of knuckes clearance with LR UCA and 295. Here she sits with a new set of Nitto 295's (3rd set on this vehicle and average 55-60k out of them, can't say enough good things about them).

Everything I've read about worn joints is followed by the word warenty, I spoke with someone from some where that stocked these and discussed the isses people had with the bushings early on. The short of the long was instructions were not being read all the way through and the arm was being installed in the down position, tightned and brough up. This is fine with urethane bushings as they arent bonded to the side wall of the UCA, where the LR UCA's use stock bushings which is composed of rubber bonded to metal then pressed into the arm, it will articulate but is not designed to go from the top of the fender to touching the coil.

A