why level your truck?

snowblind

Adventurer
Why do you say that, wouldn't the weight distribution be the same, however it sits?

Sitting on a flat surface and the weight dist stays the same. Start moving and it doesn't. Maybe call it dynamic weight distribution?

Saggy Butt in a dynamic environment provides increased traction at the rear and decreased traction at the front. End result in diminished braking and understeer handling. High Butt results in the opposite.



Matt
 

Vandy

Adventurer
Not sure if that is your truck or not but the rear tires do not have enough space in between them. When the truck is loaded the tires will touch, rub, and blow out. It defeats the purpose of having duel rear wheels.

It is. I bought her how she sits about 4 months ago. I've thought about getting a set of stockish highway tires/wheels for trips. I'm looking at a 15k lb 41 foot 5thwheel. I haven't had any kind of a load in/on her yet so I don't know about the tires rubbing. I'll definitely keep an eye on it when I do. About the heaviest load she will see for a while is my old cutlass 442 H/O.
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Sitting on a flat surface and the weight dist stays the same. Start moving and it doesn't. Maybe call it dynamic weight distribution?

Saggy Butt in a dynamic environment provides increased traction at the rear and decreased traction at the front. End result in diminished braking and understeer handling. High Butt results in the opposite.



Matt

That's an expansion of the assertion. I'm trying to get at the physics of the thing. If the droop or rise is a dynamic movement and fore and aft shifting of center of gravity, those things would be true. But just sitting in that position at rest as a matter of deliberate design, well I just don't see how that makes a difference. Especially if the suspension is engineered to hold that relative position under no or moderate inputs. And 'rear low = more traction' seems to fly against decades of straight-line drag racing setups.

ah well, not trying to be argumentative, I'll go see if I can find some explanations of the thing. To me it's automatically suspect when I see so many Bro trucks running around ***-drooping. It's like post facto justification for a fashion choice that emulates the highly sprung front ends of actual race trucks.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
When I use leveling kits, I add a bit to the rear as well. 2" front 1" rear. I have done that with 3 rigs now. keeps some rake and still gives me the room to add bigger tires. My new to me 2003 F150 screw will be getting the 2/1 treatment to so I can fit 285s and have a bit of clearance.
 

Umtaneum

Adventurer
My 2001 F350 has a leveling kit and airbags in the rear. This allows 35's, and I have to admit I like the look better. I haul a camper and tow heavy trailers very frequently, often at the same time, and the airbags have allowed me to easily avoid saggy butt. 20# for a medium weight trailer, 30# for the camper, 60# for a heavy trailer, and 80# for camper/trailer combo. No noticeable issues with handling or braking. It may cost me a little bit in fuel efficiency, or that might just be the 35's.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
I just like the way it looks. Bigger tires, more wheel travel. Still get avg 17 mpgs

Bigger tires, generally yes, but more travel depends on the system. Unless you're doing something else to change the geometry of the control arms, etc., then raising the front via springs or a torsion-spring preload adjustment (crank/keys), is just trading uptravel for droop. The front sits higher, and you can run bigger tires to a degree (although every inch of tire radius you gain is traded against one less inch of up-travel), but you're also losing down-travel by the same amount of the lift.

Don't get me wrong, it's sometimes necessary. I've adjusted the torsion preload on my van to give me enough clearance to run even the measly tires I do have, but the negative is noticeably less down-travel when the road drops away, and the increased angles on LCAs, CV shafts, and steering linkage is a documented source of high-wear and failure for my van...
 

snowblind

Adventurer
That's an expansion of the assertion. I'm trying to get at the physics of the thing. If the droop or rise is a dynamic movement and fore and aft shifting of center of gravity, those things would be true. But just sitting in that position at rest as a matter of deliberate design, well I just don't see how that makes a difference. Especially if the suspension is engineered to hold that relative position under no or moderate inputs. And 'rear low = more traction' seems to fly against decades of straight-line drag racing setups.

Sorry. I wasn't thinking "at rest" because I don't judge handling and traction at rest. :) I should have been clearer though.

This is my thinking.

If I put a marble in the bed of a truck with rake the marble will roll forward. Gravity is the dynamic force. I don't now the technical physics terms but something like (gravity/angle) - friction = acceleration.
If I accelerate the marble rolls backwards at (gravity/angle) - friction - rearward energy/angle = backwards acceleration.
If I brake the marble rolls forward at (gravity/angle) - friction + forward energy/angle = acceleration. NOTE: This acceleration is considerably greater than the backwards acceleration.
Flatten the rake and you get friction - rearward energy/angle = backwards acceleration = friction + forward energy/angle = acceleration

The above makes no consideration for squat/dive and it's already getting interesting. Lets say I brake AND turn. Marble rolls forward at (gravity/angle+dive angle) - friction + (forward energy/angle+dive angle) AND sideways at (gravity/angle+roll angle) - friction + (forward energy/+roll angle) = acceleration. AAAAACK! BRAIN HURTS! But this is the situation where I feel a raked truck suffers the most. Brake and turn at the same time and the outside front wheel wallows.

Manufacturers have created many ways to mitigate the squat/dive/roll forces but often there is a compromise to off-road performance. EG: Ant-Roll bars. It's always a compromise... and when you have solid rear axle/leaf springs going on much of the compromise has already been made. No anti-dive/squat there.

I feel like drag racing proves my point. Dragster/Funny car design = frames that are flat to the ground with no rake and pretty much all of the weight on the rear wheels. This is the pinnacle of design for traction when drag racing. Now a 69 chevelle owner might jack up the rear end to FIT big drag slicks but I think that has a lot more to do with the tire size and counteracting too much rear weight transfer.

ah well, not trying to be argumentative, I'll go see if I can find some explanations of the thing. To me it's automatically suspect when I see so many Bro trucks running around ***-drooping. It's like post facto justification for a fashion choice that emulates the highly sprung front ends of actual race trucks.

Now worries. I appreciate the discussion. I'm not advocating ***-drooping at all. I think flat set up with balanced spring rates will deliver best handling and traction compromise and that is the best setup for a truck that never gets loaded. If the truck is often loaded or towing then you can add rake to equal the estimated rear compression or add airbags.

One thing about the race trucks. They all have MORE travel in the rear than then front. That leads me to believe that they sag the rear end to stop the truck from nose diving off the bumps. A balanced suspension hitting bumps at those speeds would pitch the nose down. To me a trophy truck and speed looks more like a boat planing on water.


Best regards,
Matt
 

RoyJ

Adventurer
Sorry. I wasn't thinking "at rest" because I don't judge handling and traction at rest. :) I should have been clearer though.

I'll try to offer some input as an engineer, hopefully it'll make sense to everyone.

This is my thinking.

If I put a marble in the bed of a truck with rake the marble will roll forward. Gravity is the dynamic force. I don't now the technical physics terms but something like (gravity/angle) - friction = acceleration.

Careful how you define the boundaries of your analysis: to compare a marble in the bed with a rake, would be like the truck sitting on a downhill slope, where the entire earth (mountain slope) is accelerating.

This is not the same as the truck itself having a rake / slope, acceleration on FLAT ground.

In that case, yes, the Sin(angle of slope) * 32.2ft/s^2 - rolling friction = acceleration of truck.

Likewise, drop a marble on a non-moving truck, with a certain rake, and the marble will accelerate at sin(angle of rake) * 32.2, minus friction.

If I accelerate the marble rolls backwards at (gravity/angle) - friction - rearward energy/angle = backwards acceleration.
If I brake the marble rolls forward at (gravity/angle) - friction + forward energy/angle = acceleration. NOTE: This acceleration is considerably greater than the backwards acceleration.
Flatten the rake and you get friction - rearward energy/angle = backwards acceleration = friction + forward energy/angle = acceleration

As mentioned above, this is akin to the entire mountain slope moving, with a truck parked on its slope.

For the truck ITSELF, with a rake, the acceleration and braking forces are only altered very minutely. Most of it is an optical illusion - more rake gives the illusion of less squat, and more brake dive.

The only real physical change, is the slight shift in center of gravity. When you accelerate or brake, the forces act on the center of mass (gravity), about the point of contact (tire patch). This force moment is what creates dive and squat forces.

To turn those forces into actual dive / squat measurement in inches, we need to couple it to 2 things: suspension geometry (which dictates roll center), and suspension stiffness (both spring rate, and damper rate).

Contrary to optical illusions, a leveling kit, because it raises the CG, would create MORE brake dive (in inches), assuming suspension is kept equal. It may *feel* less because the truck is more level. The only exception is if, by lifting the front, you've altered the longitudinal roll center MORE than the raise in CG.

Example, you lift the front 2", CG goes up by say 1.7", and your roll center (due to short radius arms) raises by 4". In this case you may end up with less brake dive. But it's important to understand why - due to CG vs roll center relationship, NOT just because the truck is level.

The above makes no consideration for squat/dive and it's already getting interesting. Lets say I brake AND turn. Marble rolls forward at (gravity/angle+dive angle) - friction + (forward energy/angle+dive angle) AND sideways at (gravity/angle+roll angle) - friction + (forward energy/+roll angle) = acceleration. AAAAACK! BRAIN HURTS! But this is the situation where I feel a raked truck suffers the most. Brake and turn at the same time and the outside front wheel wallows.

See above.

Dynamic motions of the truck is primarily dictated by the relationship between:

1) primary force: height of CG to tire patch (increased with leveling kit)
2) primary force vs suspension stiffness (unchanged with a spacer lift, usually stiffer with a spring + monotube shock suspension)
3) primary force vs suspension roll center (usually increased due to greater angle of radius arms)

The marble analogy does not work, because now we're confusing ourselves with a totally different system (the moving mountain side scenario)

Manufacturers have created many ways to mitigate the squat/dive/roll forces but often there is a compromise to off-road performance. EG: Ant-Roll bars. It's always a compromise... and when you have solid rear axle/leaf springs going on much of the compromise has already been made. No anti-dive/squat there.

Agreed.

Though with leaf springs, analyzing the geometry / roll center changes would be more difficult, as we don't have radius arms / control arms to use as a visual aid.

I feel like drag racing proves my point. Dragster/Funny car design = frames that are flat to the ground with no rake and pretty much all of the weight on the rear wheels. This is the pinnacle of design for traction when drag racing. Now a 69 chevelle owner might jack up the rear end to FIT big drag slicks but I think that has a lot more to do with the tire size and counteracting too much rear weight transfer.

Best regards,
Matt

As I mentioned previously, the rake vs weight transfer is mostly an optical illusion. A high rake APPEARS to put more weight on the front wheels, and vice versa. A fellow engineer did the calculations (backed up with measurements) on a sportscar forum, and the actual difference was around 1 to 2 lbs! In other words, very little STATIC weight transfer.

Drag cars depend primarily on suspension tuning: soft springs, very low compression shock damping, and high rebound damping, to allow "squat" upon launch and increase DYNAMIC weight transfer.

The only direct correlation a rake has toward anti-squat / dive, is as mentioned before, by altering the longitudinal roll center. This is not to be confused with lateral roll center, which dictates lateral body roll during cornering.


So, in conclusion, a "leveling" kit does not affect the weight transfer much, either static or dynamic, except due to changes in roll center. Most of that is an optical illusion: squats more because truck sits level to begin with, and dives less because level to begin with...

Hope that helped somewhat, feel free to correct me or discuss more!
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
Anytime anyone in trucking or construction hear the words "I'll offer some input as an engineer..." they get Forrest Whitaker eye. LoL. :p

Explain how load leveling hitches work please.
 

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
Take a look at Timbren- a nice solution for the rear when loaded.
On a F-150, we use a 2" spacer to level, then fit Timbren to the rear to maintain level when loaded. And yes, this is to accommodate larger diameter tires.
 

Tony70

Expedition noob
My first new vehicle was my 2000 Silverado Z71. Being fresh out of college with a few more dollars in my pocket, and having driven older 4x4 trucks before it just seemed like a good fit. I still have it. I leveled the front of mine because I thought (at the time) that a 4x4 should look like one. I don't regret my decision, but it does stiffen the ride a little, and putting any weight in the rear will make it nose-high. It did allow me to install LT285-75-15 tires which I still think look a lot better than stock. Long story short, for me it was for looks.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Anytime anyone in trucking or construction hear the words "I'll offer some input as an engineer..." they get Forrest Whitaker eye. LoL. :p

Explain how load leveling hitches work please.
Unless the person in trucking or construction hearing these words can actually wrap their head around the information they're about to receive. If they can't, you might as well be chanting magic spells, sounds about the same to them. Matter of fact didn't some famous person say that any sufficiently advanced technology is for all intents and purposes indistinguishable from magic? LOL

On your question about the hitches, they use flat springs to create moments about the truck and trailer axles which results in a vertical force at the truck-trailer coupling that negates some of the tongue weight thus easing up the load on the truck's rear springs and as a result lifting both the *** end of the truck and the nose of the trailer. Additional benefit comes in less weight taken off the steer axle of the truck, makes it more stable to drive and less likely to just give you the finger when you give it steering wheel input.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Take a look at Timbren- a nice solution for the rear when loaded.
IMHO Timbrens are just glorified bump stops, their only advantage is they are cheap and install easy. And yes they do prevent your axle from hitting the factory bump stops when you get a bit too load-happy, but then again, so will anything else that is somewhat elastic in nature and takes a decent amount of force to compress.

There are much better solutions out there. Air bellows being #1 for actually maintaining ride height (in case of a 4-corner system) or at the very least the "rake" of the truck (if only one axle has them) regardless of load. Barring those, next best thing are the overload leaves that go on top of the main spring pack and contact frame-mounted brackets when the suspension compresses enough - those can actually be set up as multi-stage packs, thus progressively adding more support as the load is increased. But them things are not as easy as the Timbrens to install, and certainly not as cheap. Which is what it often boils down to - it matters not how good something is if one cannot afford it.

Personally I would never recommend Timbrens for a leaf-sprung axle if a factory top-mounted overload leaf setup exists for a higher-GVW truck of the same family and it can be obtained and installed with reasonable ease and affordability. Sure the Timbrens will work (kinda), but the ride quality suffers even when loaded.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
Unless the person in trucking or construction hearing these words can actually wrap their head around the information they're about to receive. If they can't, you might as well be chanting magic spells, sounds about the same to them. Matter of fact didn't some famous person say that any sufficiently advanced technology is for all intents and purposes indistinguishable from magic? LOL

On your question about the hitches, they use flat springs to create moments about the truck and trailer axles which results in a vertical force at the truck-trailer coupling that negates some of the tongue weight thus easing up the load on the truck's rear springs and as a result lifting both the *** end of the truck and the nose of the trailer. Additional benefit comes in less weight taken off the steer axle of the truck, makes it more stable to drive and less likely to just give you the finger when you give it steering wheel input.

Right.

So without all the equations and marbles lets answer the OPs question as it applies to towing.


The best way of keeping weight distribution even when braking, accelerating and cornering is to keep both the tongue of the trailer and the hitch as parallel with one another as possible. If they're not parallel the trailer may exert excessive upward or downward force on the hitch causing excessive weight shift on and off the steer axle and cause loss of braking and or control. Common folk may refer to this as the trailer pushing the tow vehicle.

It's far easier to establish correct towing geometry on a level truck than one with excessive rake or sag. Load leveling hitches do exactly as their name implies. They level the trailer tongue and hitch so they remain parallel.


It's not magic but rather high school physics, experience and common sense.


Do you know how to tell when you're in an engineer's office? There's lots of posters on the walls with jokes that aren't funny.

:D
 

toymaster

Explorer
Right.

So without all the equations and marbles lets answer the OPs question as it applies to towing.


The best way of keeping weight distribution even when braking, accelerating and cornering is to keep both the tongue of the trailer and the hitch as parallel with one another as possible. If they're not parallel the trailer may exert excessive upward or downward force on the hitch causing excessive weight shift on and off the steer axle and cause loss of braking and or control. Common folk may refer to this as the trailer pushing the tow vehicle.

It's far easier to establish correct towing geometry on a level truck than one with excessive rake or sag. Load leveling hitches do exactly as their name implies. They level the trailer tongue and hitch so they remain parallel.


It's not magic but rather high school physics, experience and common sense.


Do you know how to tell when you're in an engineer's office? There's lots of posters on the walls with jokes that aren't funny.

:D


I have a little input here. Maybe it is just a terminology thing because you are bouncing around truth. Level has nothing to do with it. It is weight distribution, as stated very well in your first paragraph. The second paragraph is where it went awry for me.

What threw me was your use of the words "load leveling hitch" never heard that term had to google to make sure there was not something out there I did not know about. It is actually a "weight distributing hitch", load 'leveling' is just a side effect of its actual function. When towing a long trailer one does indeed want the trailer to be level for clearance reason, not so much on the tow vic. It is "leveling" not "level". With out getting to deep into leverage and fulcrums, things I know you know about since you present as a enk-in-eer, lets use different terminology.

How a weight distribution hitch achieves its purpose is to use the rear axle of the tow vehicle as a fulcrum and lever force downward on the front axle. Therefore, giving you more traction on the front axle for steering and proper light projection direction from the headlights. The vehicle's inclination is a moot point other than getting it back to where it is unloaded. From your writing one may deduce, incorrectly, that all of the force is on the frames of the tow vic and trailer, and the axles are just hanging there trying to touch the ground.

Now, a vehicle's inclination can be set at whatever the owner likes well, within reason of course. The OP asked as simple question. As the OP seems to be a rural person (albeit a yankee), I feel/understand him more than one from the South West or California. A truck squatting in the rear means to the regular person on the street that it is overloaded, that is to us that use a truck for work and not going fast in the desert. Now, the more learned may know that one would have to look at the actual suspension to determine if the system is overloaded. But, we are usually concerned about our outward appears to the public. Given this the OP's question is extremely valid. No rural country boy or redneck (the red comes from working in the sun all day by the way, some call it a farmer's tan) wants to make their truck look like it is not big enough for the job or they are so ignorant to overload it. Why would a person knowingly make their truck 'look' overloaded? That was answered on the first page....aesthetics. Not my type of aesthetics as my pants are pulled up to my waist nor do I race over the desert landscape.

Now what don't get is how this thread went to the topic of hitches. A truck is meant to carry a load in its bed, either put in there directly or indirectly by a gooseneck or 5th wheel hitch. Let's leave the weight distributing hitches to cars and SUVs.
 
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