Why steel wheels?
- Thread starter EricBirk
- Start date
01tundra
Explorer
I wouldn't discount aluminum wheels (some) for strength. Steel can sometimes be fixed in the field with a hammer if a lip gets bent. I've had several of each on my rig and I prefer aluminum for weight and balancing.
On a 17"x8" wheel it's not uncommon to see steel weigh 10-15 lbs more per wheel than aluminum, so it's a noticeable amount.
So, in a nutshell, steel wheels are less expensive, typically harder to balance, can sometimes be repaired in the field, tend to rust, are heavier.
On a 17"x8" wheel it's not uncommon to see steel weigh 10-15 lbs more per wheel than aluminum, so it's a noticeable amount.
So, in a nutshell, steel wheels are less expensive, typically harder to balance, can sometimes be repaired in the field, tend to rust, are heavier.
To me it doesnt really sound like anyone should run steelies except for absolutely ridiculous crawlers.
Thanks for the info, will definately be sticking to the stock wheels.
trump
Adventurist
You obviously have not seen 01tundra's truck. :coffeedrink:
Patman
Explorer
You forgot one serious reason.....
THEY LOOK SOOOOO COOL:drool: At least an oem looking wheel painted off white....
I bent a lip on one of my 15x8 steelies last time I ran the Rubicon in my previous FJ60. Classic "lip scrape bend" and there was no fixing it without dismounting the tire (which i did in camp that night) as it was bent in enough to leak. Couple of ways to look at it. If it was a non forged alloy, it would have broken. If it was forged, it could have been hammered back just like the steelie, but would have looked terrible. Steelie looked undamaged after a little bit of rattle can touchup.
Naturally it depends on what you really do. I prefer steelies, as I can, and have repaired them in the field, thereby not cutting a trip short. Just like I carry a tube and a spool of mechanics wire to "stitch" a sidewall together if I tear more than one tire.
OEM alloy is perfect for the majority of rigs, the majority of the time.
Haha I was thinking that after I replied. Thats one awesome awesome rig.
True that. For right now my truck is also my DD so it doesnt see much crazy stuff at all. When I get another truck and this one becomes a trail rig, if that time ever comes, I will at that point look more closely at this option. For now the weight and mileage loss wouldnt at all be worth it.
01tundra
Explorer
I was guilty of thinking aluminum wheels could not hold up to the abuse of hard off-road driving, until I went on the '08 Ultimate Adventure and watched the TrailReady HD 17's taking a serious beat down on several of the participant's rigs and never failing. As soon as I got back I sold my brand new Allied steelies and Stauns and ordered a set of HD17's. They've had their share of abuse over the past few years and they're still holding up like a champ. They balance so good too.....as a matter of fact, they don't have any weights on them and they are very smooth. I definitely noticed a difference in performance (both starting and stopping) when I switched over to the lighter aluminum wheels.
trump
Adventurist
Weight was the biggest reason for me getting aluminum wheels instead of steel. I knew I wouldn't be able to regear right away and it made things work until I could manage. The lip of my wheels get scratched up, but are very well hidden with a quick squirt of ultra-flat black. All-and-all they have held up well with plenty of abuse.
Tacovendor
Explorer
Stock steel, 255/85/16 KM2's. Wish I could have weighed the alloys that I took off, I don't think there is enough weight difference between the two to matter. IMO
01tundra
Explorer
This thread got me curious about how many aftermarket wheels I've been through on my rig......looks like steelies win for quantity, but aluminum has finally prevailed 
American Eagle aluminum -
Allied steel simulated beadlocks -
Stazworks steel double beadlocks -
Allied Steel beadlocks -
Allied Steel -
Allied Steel w/ Stauns -
TrailReady HD17 aluminum beadlocks -
American Eagle aluminum -
Allied steel simulated beadlocks -
Stazworks steel double beadlocks -
Allied Steel beadlocks -
Allied Steel -
Allied Steel w/ Stauns -
TrailReady HD17 aluminum beadlocks -
TangoBlue
American Adventurist
Yeah, REALLY! That's hilarious! :Wow1: Enjoyed seeing it parked on the grass at GSMTR - D'oh!
My OEM Tacoma Al 'starfish' wheels weigh a pound more than my LC 80 Al wheels - go figure. I consider every pound on my Tacoma - more weight = less power from the 3RZ.
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trump
Adventurist
Interesting that the 80 wheel are wider and weight less. I hear ya... 33's and factory gearing brought the suck with the 3RZ. Glad that's in the past.
Stock steel, 255/85/16 KM2's. Wish I could have weighed the alloys that I took off, I don't think there is enough weight difference between the two to matter. IMO
Thats a nice looking rig man!
This thread got me curious about how many aftermarket wheels I've been through on my rig......looks like steelies win for quantity, but aluminum has finally prevailed
American Eagle aluminum -
Allied steel simulated beadlocks -
Stazworks steel double beadlocks -
Allied Steel beadlocks -
Allied Steel -
Allied Steel w/ Stauns -
TrailReady HD17 aluminum beadlocks -
Same goes for you. I love those Tundra's and yours is definitely the pinnacle!