WillBeck
Adventurer
Pictures of any/all brackets, attachment points, etc would be great. If you have a spare curtain, I'd love to take it off your hands. Any spare parts just let me know!
Wildernest Restoration
- Thread starter Will_beck
- Start date
Pictures of any/all brackets, attachment points, etc would be great. If you have a spare curtain, I'd love to take it off your hands. Any spare parts just let me know!
gwittman
Adventurer
I got some dimensions for you and took some pictures. Let me know the areas you specifically want a photo of. I have included a photo of the aluminum straps and the pole ends.
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The straps are .130" thick and 1" wide. The side dimensions are difficult to determine with the radius so I will give it from the end to an imaginary intersection point straight out from the two sides on the outside of the radius. The side with the pin is 9.75" and the other side is 10.5". The pin is 1.85" long from the tip to the surface of the aluminum. I am guessing the radius is around 1".
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The original poles are 63.5" long (over the sleeping bed) and 59.5" (over the truck bed). Those dimensions do not include the .25" diameter guide that fits in the frame hole. The diameter of the fiberglass is .375". The carbon fiber pole that I made up is 58.5" long (over the truck bed) and it is .312" diameter. The aluminum ends are .5" diameter where they fit over the fiberglass and the guide sections that fits into the tube frame holes are .25" diameter. That extended guide section is .5" long but I don't think is needs to be that long. I think I am going to shorten at least one of them a little to make it easier to insert into the retaining hole.
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The straps are .130" thick and 1" wide. The side dimensions are difficult to determine with the radius so I will give it from the end to an imaginary intersection point straight out from the two sides on the outside of the radius. The side with the pin is 9.75" and the other side is 10.5". The pin is 1.85" long from the tip to the surface of the aluminum. I am guessing the radius is around 1".
.
The original poles are 63.5" long (over the sleeping bed) and 59.5" (over the truck bed). Those dimensions do not include the .25" diameter guide that fits in the frame hole. The diameter of the fiberglass is .375". The carbon fiber pole that I made up is 58.5" long (over the truck bed) and it is .312" diameter. The aluminum ends are .5" diameter where they fit over the fiberglass and the guide sections that fits into the tube frame holes are .25" diameter. That extended guide section is .5" long but I don't think is needs to be that long. I think I am going to shorten at least one of them a little to make it easier to insert into the retaining hole.
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This is all fantastic info, thank you so much!!!
WillBeck
Adventurer
Some pictures of your brackets that hold the support pole/hoop over the bed would be great.
Is there a good step by step procedure for removing the springs?
Should i chance removing the roof all together, or will i cause unnecessary damage to the underlying structure by removing and replacing the hinges down the side?
Any idea what kind of replacement latch will work with the front slider window? My latch is missing.
Do you have part numbers, or links for replacement bulb seal, or outside draw down latches? I am missing one, and figure i may as well do both.
Thanks again!
gwittman
Adventurer
I guess you are referring to the fiberglass poles as the "support pole/hoop". There are no brackets used to hold them. Each end fits in a hole in the center of each metal frame. Then the tent has a Velcro loop strap sewn into it to keep the pole from slipping sideways. Here is a picture of a portion of where the pole fits into the center metal frame and the Velcro strap on the tent.
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The springs are fairly easy to remove. It is best to remove the support cables from the roof first. You should support the roof at about 45 degrees up from full open to do this. This relieves the tension on the cables to make it easier to remove the bolts on the brackets. I prefer not to unloosen the cable clamps unless adjustment is needed during assembly. Once the cables are removed, make sure the roof is secure. If the roof rotates down too far from fully open it will surely damage the fiberglass. At that point the center metal frame should be up at about a 45 degree angle and the spring should be near a free state (unloaded in either direction). The important thing is to unload the spring. Once that is done and cap is held in place, you can take the pivot bolts out of the center metal frame and slide it up and away from the end of the spring. The other end of the spring is held in place with a Cotter pin. I usually just let in rotate down and out of the way, then secure it so it doesn't bang against anything like the rear window.
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I have removed my roof a couple times while refurbishing. I have not experienced any damage to the structure by doing so. Just keep track of the bolts because some are different length in different locations. I have never replaced the hinges because I was able to reuse mine after recoating them. I think it would be a good idea to use the existing holes if possible. However if you can't, you should be able to fill in the holes with fiberglass and drill new ones without weakening the structure significantly.
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Sorry, I don't have part numbers for any items. I have always reused the existing parts I had except for the bulb seal and roof edge protector. The front slider latch is probably not needed because there is no access to it from the outside and those windows are pretty snug. I don't think they would work themselves open unless yours are loose. I searched for stainless steel outside drawdown latches and could not find any. I could not find any latch that was exactly like the original ones but there are some out there that looked like they would work. I just ended up recoating mine and reusing them.
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The first time I replaced the bulb seal and roof edge protector/trim, my brother provided them to me but the last time he didn't have them anymore. I was able to find something on eBay that worked but the bulb seal self adhesive didn't work very well. The adhesive worked initially but eventually lost adhesion in some places. I was able to use some good weather strip adhesive to fix that. I realized later that I could have bought the combination bulb seal with the u-shaped edge protector that slips over the edge of the roof fiberglass. I think this would have worked much better since it has a mechanical grip along with the peel and stick adhesive. If I continue to have a problem with mine I will probably redo it with the combination system.
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The springs are fairly easy to remove. It is best to remove the support cables from the roof first. You should support the roof at about 45 degrees up from full open to do this. This relieves the tension on the cables to make it easier to remove the bolts on the brackets. I prefer not to unloosen the cable clamps unless adjustment is needed during assembly. Once the cables are removed, make sure the roof is secure. If the roof rotates down too far from fully open it will surely damage the fiberglass. At that point the center metal frame should be up at about a 45 degree angle and the spring should be near a free state (unloaded in either direction). The important thing is to unload the spring. Once that is done and cap is held in place, you can take the pivot bolts out of the center metal frame and slide it up and away from the end of the spring. The other end of the spring is held in place with a Cotter pin. I usually just let in rotate down and out of the way, then secure it so it doesn't bang against anything like the rear window.
.
I have removed my roof a couple times while refurbishing. I have not experienced any damage to the structure by doing so. Just keep track of the bolts because some are different length in different locations. I have never replaced the hinges because I was able to reuse mine after recoating them. I think it would be a good idea to use the existing holes if possible. However if you can't, you should be able to fill in the holes with fiberglass and drill new ones without weakening the structure significantly.
.
Sorry, I don't have part numbers for any items. I have always reused the existing parts I had except for the bulb seal and roof edge protector. The front slider latch is probably not needed because there is no access to it from the outside and those windows are pretty snug. I don't think they would work themselves open unless yours are loose. I searched for stainless steel outside drawdown latches and could not find any. I could not find any latch that was exactly like the original ones but there are some out there that looked like they would work. I just ended up recoating mine and reusing them.
.
The first time I replaced the bulb seal and roof edge protector/trim, my brother provided them to me but the last time he didn't have them anymore. I was able to find something on eBay that worked but the bulb seal self adhesive didn't work very well. The adhesive worked initially but eventually lost adhesion in some places. I was able to use some good weather strip adhesive to fix that. I realized later that I could have bought the combination bulb seal with the u-shaped edge protector that slips over the edge of the roof fiberglass. I think this would have worked much better since it has a mechanical grip along with the peel and stick adhesive. If I continue to have a problem with mine I will probably redo it with the combination system.
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bobdirt
New member
Will-
your gonna love that camper when your done with it. My truck isn't anything special but with that camper it is tons of fun.
I had used Bear Creek canvas to do a couple projects for me in the past and they agreed to try making a tent for my Wildernest. They were concerned there wouldn't be enough room for the thicker canvas when folded, but I was willing to gamble and it worked out great. They did it for a very reasonable price.
Our camper had been neglected in my in-laws back yard for decades when we drug it home. Got the camper for free and have about $500 in it total.
your gonna love that camper when your done with it. My truck isn't anything special but with that camper it is tons of fun.
I had used Bear Creek canvas to do a couple projects for me in the past and they agreed to try making a tent for my Wildernest. They were concerned there wouldn't be enough room for the thicker canvas when folded, but I was willing to gamble and it worked out great. They did it for a very reasonable price.
Our camper had been neglected in my in-laws back yard for decades when we drug it home. Got the camper for free and have about $500 in it total.
WildernestTaco
New member
@bobdirt
I too have an older Wildernest version that has seen better days. I've had it about 6 years now and love it but the canvas is starting to go. Is there anyway I could contact you about details on bear canvas with what information you provided them? I'm looking to do the same thing.
Thanks!
Zack
I too have an older Wildernest version that has seen better days. I've had it about 6 years now and love it but the canvas is starting to go. Is there anyway I could contact you about details on bear canvas with what information you provided them? I'm looking to do the same thing.
Thanks!
Zack
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