Wildernest Restoration

rtwBound

Member
Alright, I've ran into some problems and I don't know what to do. I'm hoping someone here can offer some help.

I'm in the process of removing the screws from the hinges and putting nut, washer, and bolts on so they are more secure.

Problem 1.) some of the screws broke and are lodged into the fibreglass. I've tried drilling through them with drill bits (unsuccessfully), even my cobalt drill set that I just bought broke while trying to drill.

IMG_2194.jpeg

Problem 2.) The bottom section of the hinge I was able to put nuts on, but the top section there simply isn't enough room to fit my fingers and a wrench in to tight the nut; I don't know how they did this from the factory.

IMG_2191.jpeg
IMG_2190.jpeg

Options that I'm considering. Say to hell with the nuts and just use self tapping screws and hope they hold; this might work as it was the bottom row of the hinge that was coming loose for me, the top part of the hinge for the most part was fine with the self tapping screws when I did it the first time. Or, try and prop the tent up part way so that I'll have more room inside to work with.

Any suggestions?
 
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rtwBound

Member
@gwittman did you encounter a similar issue when you replaced your latches? How were you able to get a nut and bolt on the top half of the hinge. I feel like there is no room in there for me to put my hand in and thread the nut onto the bolt. Any help is appreciated.
 

gwittman

Adventurer
I didn't use bolts and nuts on my latches. I used pop rivets.

I did use bolts and nuts on the hinges and I don't remember having a problem with it. I had the Wildernest shell completely apart when I refurbished it. I am pretty sure I attached the hinges to the top (cap) before I placed the cap on the bottom section of the Wildernest. You may have to find a way to fully open the top, or at least half way or more, to have access to those top nuts.

I hope you plan to cut those bolts back and deburr. Those could do some damage to your head if you bump one. There is a cover in that area, but it doesn't cover everything.
 
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rtwBound

Member
I didn't use bolts and nuts on my latches. I used pop rivets.

I did use bolts and nuts on the hinges and I don't remember having a problem with it. I had the Wildernest shell completely apart when I refurbished it. I am pretty sure I attached the hinges to the top (cap) before I placed the cap on the bottom section of the Wildernest. You may have to find a way to fully open the top, or at least half way or more, to have access to those top nuts.

I hope you plan to cut those bolts back and deburr. Those could do some damage to your had if you bump one. There is a cover in that area, but it doesn't cover everything.

Yup, will definitely be cutting the ends off before I put the skirt back on. hmm, if I could go back in time that's what I would have done, I guess my only option right now is to prop it open then.
 

rtwBound

Member
3m VHB (5259) + self tapping screws or rivets. Will be really solid if done right.

I already used 3M VHB with self tapping screws and a few of the screws weren't holding and were coming loose. That's why I'm trying to do nut and bolt now. Do you think rivets would be better? Even though the hinges aren't load bearing (from my understanding) they still hold some weight, and hold weight for opening/closing
 

dstefan

Well-known member
If the self tappers dont hold, then you might do better with a through hole and some sort of backer to stop pullout. Seem’s like a rivet or maybe a rivnut or plus nut could work if you can fit them?
Good luck!
 

97heavyweight

Well-known member
You could also try a riv-nut.
 
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97heavyweight

Well-known member
Ive thought about that but the fibreglass is too thick for a riv nut. It needs a backing to hold onto, and I don't think it would clear the fibreglass, if that makes sense
They make one called the plusnut that will work up to a half inch. I've ordered some to use on my fiberglass Tacoma bed.
 

Arclight

SAR guy
McMaster-Carr has longer rivnuts for fiberglass:
 

Hummelator

Adventurer
For the screws that broke off, depending on the size of the screw, if you can drill a little bit into it you can buy some easy outs that may be able to extract it enough to get a pair of vise grips on it to finish the job. Other wise you may need to just punch it through.

As far as refastening the hinges, I would go with a 3/16 galvanized steel pop rivet with a fender washer on the back side so it will sandwhich the fibreglass.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I'd be wary of using Riv-nuts on your 'Nest. The fiberglass is not very thick and often the internal structure is wood. So when they expand and squeeze they will most likely just crack the shell. There's a few places where there is steel molded inside the 'Nest with a void behind it, like the side ribs where they would be a decent option.

When I have to repair things that were attached on the WilderNest I usually do one of three things depending on where it is. It's best to drill through and use a bolt, washers and nut. That's a one-and-done fix. You can usually repair whatever it is multiple time again without causing more damage and it's easy to seal with RTV or something else.

If you are replacing rivets and you've lived a virtuous life you can often be careful to drill the rivet head off and remove it clean enough to use a rivet again. This is sometimes not ideal. Like if you have to repair the back door those rivets at best leave debris that rattles around. There are shallow blind spots were they are still preferred, like the latches, if you can. But even those I prefer to change fasteners eventually to prevent them from wallowing over time.

The last option I use more and more as the 'Nest gets worn out, more spots of rot, etc. are those inserts for plywood. Clean up the hole to expose solid wood and fiberglass first then insert them with glue, be that resin, simple epoxy or even Gorilla Glue works well. These are frustration savers for any screws that really only work well once and never work if you have rotten wood. That's where Gorilla I find useful. Since your wood has turned to almost a sponge if you get it damp that Gorilla glue penetrates and makes a pretty solid connection.

yellows-golds-e-z-lok-composite-fasteners-908125-20-64_600.png
 
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Simplyjilly

New member
I didn't use bolts and nuts on my latches. I used pop rivets.

I did use bolts and nuts on the hinges and I don't remember having a problem with it. I had the Wildernest shell completely apart when I refurbished it. I am pretty sure I attached the hinges to the top (cap) before I placed the cap on the bottom section of the Wildernest. You may have to find a way to fully open the top, or at least half way or more, to have access to those top nuts.

I hope you plan to cut those bolts back and deburr. Those could do some damage to your had if you bump one. There is a cover in that area, but it doesn't cover everything.

would you mind sharing the specs/source for the pop rivets that you used? Thank you so much.
 

gwittman

Adventurer
I don't remember where I got them, but they are just standard aluminum pop rivets. I am pretty sure they have a steel pull core. They are either 1/8" or 3/16" dia shank (what ever fits the holes). I don't remember the length.

I think any good hardware store should carry them.
 

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