Winch bumper
- Thread starter Benc
- Start date
no-pistons
Adventurer
Are you going to produce the rear bumper also?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At some point I will be doing the rear, prob not for at least 6 months though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
offthebeatenpath
Adventurer
So.... what's the status of these?
A friend of mine and I have been chewing on this idea and we each may be interested in a DIY kit.
What are you expecting for a turn around on current orders and what are we looking at for pricing on the DIY kits?
Thanks!
And the bumpers look awesome! I really dig that last version of the bull bar that's on the LX!
A friend of mine and I have been chewing on this idea and we each may be interested in a DIY kit.
What are you expecting for a turn around on current orders and what are we looking at for pricing on the DIY kits?
Thanks!
And the bumpers look awesome! I really dig that last version of the bull bar that's on the LX!
Sorry guys, been busy in the shop.
Right now I have 33 orders so your probably looking at the end of June.
DIY with full guard will run you about $650
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, fully modular. I don't know that I would say only. This design is stronger than a standard welded bumper! Here is a pic of the caps that tie it all together.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The light are arb knock offs. They are very bright and very high quality for the price.
I paid $259 for the pair to my door.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CreeperSleeper
Looking for bigger rocks.
After a 1147 mile road trip, I have my bumper! Ben is an awesome guy and his work is top notch. The pride in workmanship is second to none! I cannot speak highly enough about this bumper.
Anyway, here she is in all of her raw glory. I will be pulling it off and getting it painted ASAP.
Anyway, here she is in all of her raw glory. I will be pulling it off and getting it painted ASAP.
CreeperSleeper
Looking for bigger rocks.
I would be all for that!
CreeperSleeper
Looking for bigger rocks.
Bumper Installation Instructions! A big thank you to Ben for getting these bumpers out. I understand how hard he is working on these, so I figured I would use pictures that I had from my bumper and Jerry's bumper to make some instructions. Ben didn't ask me to do this and he hasn't proof read it, so just let me know if there is anything that needs to be adjusted or changed. I just figured Ben's time was better spent welding instead of writing! Please note, Jerry does have a 1” body lift, so you can see how well the bumper fits with the body lift brackets.
Step One:
Unwrap your bumper and admire the beautiful welds and craftsmanship.
Step Two:
Remove your factory bumper. You will notice that the “crash bar” is bolted to the frame with (4) 14mm bolts…
The bracket that those bolts thread into need to go! Time to break out the angle grinder. You don't want to cut into the frame, just enough to cut through the bracket:
Now grind the welds down smooth so the new bumper brackets can slide on:
Step Three:
Using the bolts under the frame that held your factory hooks on, bolt up the mounting brackets so the risers are on the inside of the frame. ***Note: Two of the factory bolts have large shoulders. You will either need to use the factory hook as a spacer or buy two new bolts without the shoulder.*** You want these bolts snug, but movable enough to adjust the bumper as needed.
Step Four:
Now it's time to bolt on the center section. If you are running no hoops or the small stinger, take the time to bolt that on first. It will give you something to hang onto and give you more material to “hang onto” the brackets. If you have the full brush guard, worry about it after the center section is on the brackets, since it will make it cumbersome. The hoop or plates bolt to the center section using the shorter stainless allen bolts, two washers, and a nut. The center section bolts to the brackets with the black allen head bolts and a nut.
-OR-
Step Five:
Now you need to adjust the bumper. This would involve sliding the brackets forward and/or backwards on the frame bolt. Then tightening the bolts to check for level. If the bumper is not level at this point, you may need to add some shims between the bracket and the frame to get it level. Take your time on this step!
Step One:
Unwrap your bumper and admire the beautiful welds and craftsmanship.
Step Two:
Remove your factory bumper. You will notice that the “crash bar” is bolted to the frame with (4) 14mm bolts…
The bracket that those bolts thread into need to go! Time to break out the angle grinder. You don't want to cut into the frame, just enough to cut through the bracket:
Now grind the welds down smooth so the new bumper brackets can slide on:
Step Three:
Using the bolts under the frame that held your factory hooks on, bolt up the mounting brackets so the risers are on the inside of the frame. ***Note: Two of the factory bolts have large shoulders. You will either need to use the factory hook as a spacer or buy two new bolts without the shoulder.*** You want these bolts snug, but movable enough to adjust the bumper as needed.
Step Four:
Now it's time to bolt on the center section. If you are running no hoops or the small stinger, take the time to bolt that on first. It will give you something to hang onto and give you more material to “hang onto” the brackets. If you have the full brush guard, worry about it after the center section is on the brackets, since it will make it cumbersome. The hoop or plates bolt to the center section using the shorter stainless allen bolts, two washers, and a nut. The center section bolts to the brackets with the black allen head bolts and a nut.
-OR-
Step Five:
Now you need to adjust the bumper. This would involve sliding the brackets forward and/or backwards on the frame bolt. Then tightening the bolts to check for level. If the bumper is not level at this point, you may need to add some shims between the bracket and the frame to get it level. Take your time on this step!