Wiring Advice on AT Chaser...Gear, Spresso are you out there???

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
I'm trying to mount my LED worklight to the tail light of the Chaser. I don't want to drill any holes in it. i'd also like it to be powered when the other leds are activated via the switch on the control box.

I chose this location due to it being tucked up and out of the way and for it's ability to illuminate the ground under the tent.


Here's what I have to work with. The brown wire is hot when the "Ambiance led's" are powered. The white is the ground. I tapped into the brown and into the white, but no light. I then tapped into the brown and green, again no light. Lastly, I tried the green and white...No light! Do these not have enough juice or am I missing a key point that I will laugh about when clearly pointed out?

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Any help is most appreciated.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
Ok. Fuse is Ok. And you don't have any voltage when the "Night Light" switch is "on"? But the license plate light & side lights lightup otherwise?
 

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
Eureka! I tapped into the brown with one of those in-line splicers. Instead of using another one of those things for the ground, I made it's own dedicated ground wire and we have light.



Thanks Spresso for sending me back outside just to make sure the fuse wasn't blown.
 

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
spressomon said:
Ok. Fuse is Ok. And you don't have any voltage when the "Night Light" switch is "on"? But the license plate light & side lights lightup otherwise?

Just to clarify. I did have voltage with the Night Light switch was on. I just wasn't getting power to the led work light. I think it was those little blue in-line splicers (Scotch connector or something). I don't think I was getting a good connection with them.
 

opie

Explorer
24HOURSOFNEVADA said:
Just to clarify. I did have voltage with the Night Light switch was on. I just wasn't getting power to the led work light. I think it was those little blue in-line splicers (Scotch connector or something). I don't think I was getting a good connection with them.

I dont even use those anymore for that reason and the fact they are not weather tight.

I use butt connectors with heat shrink built in. So far I havent had to re-do any wiring on anything Ive built in the last 4 years.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
24HOURSOFNEVADA said:
Eureka! I tapped into the brown with one of those in-line splicers. Instead of using another one of those things for the ground, I made it's own dedicated ground wire and we have light.



Thanks Spresso for sending me back outside just to make sure the fuse wasn't blown.


Ay carumba! Congrats!
 

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
opie said:
I dont even use those anymore for that reason and the fact they are not weather tight.

I use butt connectors with heat shrink built in. So far I havent had to re-do any wiring on anything Ive built in the last 4 years.

This application would not have worked with a butt connector. It needed to be an in-line splice.


I'd love to find some connectors locally with adhesive/shrink tube built in. Everything I'm able to source is online.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
24HOURSOFNEVADA said:
This application would not have worked with a butt connector. It needed to be an in-line splice.


I'd love to find some connectors locally with adhesive/shrink tube built in. Everything I'm able to source is online.


I need to buy some too. Have you tried: West Marine, Sandy's or Wesco yet?
 

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
spressomon said:
I need to buy some too. Have you tried: West Marine, Sandy's or Wesco yet?


West Marine, yes. The others, no. I could not recall the name of Sandy's, but I knew there was another store out there. I'll call in the morning. I'd really like to have them before I start the wiring for the aux. fuel tank.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
24HOURSOFNEVADA said:
West Marine, yes. The others, no. I could not recall the name of Sandy's, but I knew there was another store out there. I'll call in the morning. I'd really like to have them before I start the wiring for the aux. fuel tank.


Be sure to document your install for me :jump: I finally found/received my OEM dual filler neck. Now I need to start mocking up the custom tank...
 

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
spressomon said:
Be sure to document your install for me :jump: I finally found/received my OEM dual filler neck. Now I need to start mocking up the custom tank...


Will do, but this one is going to be a kicker for me. After corresponding with George Scolaro, I am going to assemble the diagram and test run it before actually installing it to make sure everything works.

I'm relying heavily on Boston Manglers write up found on his Baja Overland site.
 

boknows

Adventurer
Not to far off topic, how do you like the utility LED light? I just dropped the order on the Chaser and included it in the options. When I start getting pics from Martyn I will post up:coffeedrink:
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
24HOURSOFNEVADA said:
This application would not have worked with a butt connector. It needed to be an in-line splice.


I'd love to find some connectors locally with adhesive/shrink tube built in. Everything I'm able to source is online.
NAPA sells the BUSS brand crimp connectors with the heat shrink/hot glue built in.

I always just twist two wires together and stuff them into one side to make a three way splice. You may have to use one size larger crimp connector, in this case strip the single wire long and double the conductor over to insure a firm crimp. Also add a couple of layers of shrink wrap to the insulation on the single wire side so the heat shrink seals tight.

The Blue scotch insulation displacement connectors are the debil, get rid of them ASAP.
 

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