Wiring Options

[BCobe]

So I bought a set of 4.5 Vision X Cannons and do not know what route to go with the wiring. I could buy the dual light wiring harness but want to be able to wire them to some sort of switch source in the future. I could also make the harness but unsure how to make the 2 lights run off one switch.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[Comanche Scott]

Almost anything is possible

Cool lights! :beer:

If you could have your dream come true, how would you want them to work, and what vehicle do you have?
Short of having Heidi Klum throw the switch, almost anything is possible. Cool part is these lights are very low draw, so the circuit is pretty simple.

Sorry I can't help with the Heidi part...

 

[Septu]

Attach the positive and grounds from each light to the other (+/+, -/-) then ground the - out and run the + to your relay. Your switch can either go off of the highbeams or standalone - there's advantages to both (the diagram has the switch being powered off the highbeams).

Here's a good diagram (there's lots out there on the net). I know it may look complicated, but after you do it once, you'll realize how simple it is.

 

[BCobe]

Cool lights! :beer:

If you could have your dream come true, how would you want them to work, and what vehicle do you have?
Short of having Heidi Klum throw the switch, almost anything is possible. Cool part is these lights are very low draw, so the circuit is pretty simple.

Sorry I can't help with the Heidi part...

I would like to only do the wiring once but looking around it seems that I'll at least have to do it twice. Perfect world I would already like to have a source and then go from there.

Attach the positive and grounds from each light to the other (+/+, -/-) then ground the - out and run the + to your relay. Your switch can either go off of the highbeams or standalone - there's advantages to both (the diagram has the switch being powered off the highbeams).

Here's a good diagram (there's lots out there on the net). I know it may look complicated, but after you do it once, you'll realize how simple it is.

I saw diagrams like this but the question I have is wire size. The lights also have Deutsch connectors, so would I just run the negative wires to the 85 side of the relay to eventually be grounded? Also, when connecting the wires is there any special thing that needs to be done, or is a would simple splice suffice?

 

[Yuccahead]

This got a bit long-winded....
Wire size depends on the size of the current (in AMPS) and the length of the wire. There are many charts on the web that give similar info. I have used this one but others work as well:
https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

You can find or calculate the current draw (in amps) of the lights on the light itself or the packaging. If they are 25 watt lights, the current in amps is (25 watts / 12 volts =) 2 amps or 4 amps for 2 lights. Essentially, 16 gauge wire will should cover your needs but you may need a thicker gauge if your runs are long. Sometimes it's just cheaper to buy on big roll of 14 or 16 gauge instead of smaller pieces of 14, 16 and 22 gauge for each wire run you need to make.

Calculate your fuse size to protect the wire. Since these lights will use a total of 4-5 amps, you could fuse with a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse. Try the 7.5 first. If it blows when you use the lights, check for shorts and then maybe try a 10. Fuses should be mounted as close to the power supply as possible.

As for wire to wire connections, there are numerous threads on just this forum that debate this endlessly. Some like well crimped connectors (especially useful when connecting to the relays and switches) while others like to solder. Others do both (crimp and then solder a wire to a connector). I've used both methods -- mostly soldering only when splicing 3 wires together -- with success. You could use Deutsch connectors but it can be a pain to find the other half (Amazon carries them) or connect to raw wire. You will still have to do some soldering or crimping to make the other side of the Deutsch connector. Use heat shrink to seal the connections if you aren't using something like a Deutsch connector. I like the crimp connectors that have the heat shrink wrap included. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that provide good examples of splicing/crimping/soldering.

For your last question, your vehicle's body serves as the ground. Just ground your lights to the body. On newer Jeeps, it's easy to find various threaded studs attached to the metal body where Jeep grounds various components. Everything on a car works this way. Ground the relay near its location and the lights near where they are mounted. Any connection to the body should work including attaching to bolts used to mount the lights if they are ultimately connected to the body. You can always check a potential grounding location with a continuity tester on a multi-meter or a basic 12v test light.

 

[BCobe]

Thanks Yuccahead! you may thing that its long winded but it was definitely information that I needed. Now I just need to find the supplies.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Call Vision X They may have what you need. If not Delcity and other automotive electric shops have what you need.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Deutsch-Compatible-AT-Series-Connectors/p_808420
Very easy to put the connectors together. Not so easy to take them back apart... lol
So just take your time and pay attention to detail.
you can do this. Lot's of videos on youtube as well to help. :beer:

 

[BCobe]

The lights actually came with a set of female deutsch connectors with little paddle connections on the end. My plan is to build off of that and tie it into a Rugged Ridge A pillar switch mount.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Small world... UPS just dropped off a Rugged Ridge A pillar pod at the front door.
It looks like a nice piece.

Sounds like you are well setup! :beer:
Now to find Heidi's phone number for the big unavailing party. :elkgrin:

 

[BCobe]

Haha, post some pics when you get it installed! If I wire the harness directly to the battery and use an OTRATTW Switch, will it stay illuminated?

 

[Comanche Scott]

Will do. It's going to be a bit, as parts are still "trickling" in...
The "switched" LED will light with the switch, the un-switched LED should either be wired to accessory, or to the dash light circuit.
Wiring to the dashlight circuit isn't difficult, just need to find the wire based on your year.
With these switches being so popular, there are quite a few write-ups with good pictures for sources to help.

 

[BCobe]

Will do. It's going to be a bit, as parts are still "trickling" in...
The "switched" LED will light with the switch, the un-switched LED should either be wired to accessory, or to the dash light circuit.
Wiring to the dashlight circuit isn't difficult, just need to find the wire based on your year.
With these switches being so popular, there are quite a few write-ups with good pictures for sources to help.

Yea, found a thread were someone used a fused tap. Still debating on whether do do a full source or just a single harness

 

[BCobe]

Ordered a Rigid Harness thinking that it would solve my wiring situation and still be fairly cheap. Well, I started getting everything in and went to fit the harness on my OTRATTW switch. Come to find out, the connections on the switch are bigger than the ones on the harness. Looking at the wiring digram for the switch and comparing it to the Rigid Harness, the inline fuse did not add up. The fuse would go to the switch and then a positive went from the switch to the lights. Guessing they used the switch as a relay? Said screw backwards engineering the harness and just ordered everything recommended.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Awesome.

That should make life much easier.
Hope you'll have a chance to post pictures as you go along on the install. :beer:

 

[BCobe]

So, got everything wired up, flipped the switch, and nadda. The relay I accidentally ordered was a 5 prong and nothing was hooked to the 87a. Could this be my problem?